you should give Edifier S530D a try.
altec lansing is dying in terms of quality... I dunno why the new company did that.


I miss the old altecs

really ? from the datasheet the TDA 7377 and TDA 7375 just a different with output power onli. TDA 7375 is 5 watt more than TDA7377
other spec are totally same.

since the 1st batch of MX5021 is almost impossible to find...u can try looking for 2nd batch MX5021

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Added on January 21, 2011, 5:01 pmdoes any1 provide modding service for my MX5021 and how much does it cost?

This post has been edited by PluEitaro: Jan 21 2011, 05:01 PM

thats why i say its not as easy as you think it is =)
take you there is far, tell you is long story...
=)

add me....i'm using altec lansing vs 4121 now....

what the different btw new AL v4121 and old AL v4121? last time i use my fren old AL v4121 very nice, gray black with blue led 1. now new 1 is black with red led, rite ?

VS4121 user here (brown black, blue LED).

The old vs4121 packs a heavier punch and a richer sound compared to the new one. Build quality is also better compared to the new vs4121. Kinda fragile I'd say, the new vs4121 is.

Which is why I wanna repair my vs4121, no heart to replace it.

The right speaker gave up, no sound coming from it. Anyone has been thru this situation before?? Help needed sifus.

yup. 1st batch have better quality.
i think u can follow some steps here to check

1st check whether your output from computer is normal.
try plug in using headset or another speaker to test.

if no problem, then the problem is on the speaker.
try plug out the right speaker DIN cable n see carefully whether the pin got damaged or not.

if no then plug in properly, try shake or bend or straight the wire c whether it got sound come out or not.
check whether the 3.5mm jack had rusted or not. try replace with another 3.5mm cable

if not then is internal problem. u will need to remove the screw and have a look for inside components.

determine whether the PCB board, components (especially the capacitor 2200uF) got damaged or not

determine whether the output from amp (TDA7377) is normal or not. (u can try using left channel speaker to conect to right channel of amp to test )

hopefully this can help u ...

good luck

This post has been edited by x-treme: Feb 6 2011, 06:32 PM

I have done all the diagnostics bro. Initially it was giving problems, but when I adjust and play with the thick cable (coming from the right speaker, which has the power button n controls), it will be back to normal.
Then one fine day, it went silent. I suspect it's the internals. But I don't know how to open up the right speaker. I've checked online on manuals, but not much info.

Do you know how to open up the right speaker?? I cant find any screws on it.

mean the problem is on the right speaker cable. i have no idea how to open that right speaker. except you smash it
juz b4 this should not bend the cable too much and too always

It's served me a good 5 years. No complaints whatsoever. I think it's a good time to upgrade now, if I can't repair this problem.

yup. 200 speaker can serve for 5 years. what can complain. can upgrade to a better 1 .. haha

haha yeah true bro. what setup are you using by the way??

normal 2.1 only.

wanna try change amp from TDA7377 to TDA7375 but failed.

There are also yellow LED batch. All 3 batches if not mistaken.

Altec ADA885 mod.

just a small mod to replace the original heatsink with smaller heatsink. turns out that the TDA7265 (x2) is too big for the heatsink, I 'broke' the side fins and put alot of thermal gel to cover the uneven surface. now no more bass chuffing sound when listening to deep bass. before that there is alot of chuffing sound even before the sub bottoms out due to stupid heatsink design by AL, that is the heatsink partially inserted into the slot port.

the heatsink in LM2940J was later reverted back into the original due to not enough space for the DD decoder to sit onto the mainboard. btw the mainboard has lot of small caps, at least compared to the modern AL models such as MX5021.


Attached thumbnail(s)

wow?


heatsink partially inserted into the slot port?
lol?

haha good that you've realized it
now we all know XD

haha yes, if you see the first and second picture above you will know what i mean. this thing can go very low, but the chuffing prevents it from doing its job well.

also, whether with the new or old heatsink, it's always get pretty hot. so i use small 5v fan to blow. not sure is it because this thing is designed in 1999... now global warming lol

wow, got this Fans club ah? Only realize this club today, since i have my ACS45.1 for more than 10 years. It still serve me well with the newly upgraded x-fi Fatal1ty Pro.

however, after i have done the house keeping in my computer room and it's start give me some problem. after on the speaker, depend on its "mood" some time just work, some time just won't sound at all. if i manage to make it work (on and off few times, some time flip the control satellite upside down), it also not guarantee working for all time. It may just gone for now sound for few seconds, minutes.... then have to flip the satellite, push the cable, knocking the satellite or the woofer...

Dear all sifus here, what can happened to it? i'll try to save it as it so valuable for me since i got it during my college time.

you mean like the whole thing doesn't want to switch on?
or what?

sometimes it could be just the wires causing it