Boardwalk means the rims are 28 holed for front and back. Quite hard to find the hubs. Dual chain ring helps a lot in hill climbs. Let's presume that you are in 52T front crank and 14T rear (smallest), that's 74.28 gear inches (GI) in bicycle gearing calculations. Then if you are on the other end, 52T crank and 28T rear, that's 37.14 gear inches (GI) , (the smaller the GI, the easier it is to pedal but covering a shorter distance).

If you add another 39T chain ring in front, you get 55.71 gear inches (highest gear) and 27.85 gear inches (lowest gear). so, your full spectrum is from 27.85 GI to 74.28 GI. This is just a small improvement, a 10 GI improvement on lower gear. Presume that you leave the front crank alone an concentrate on the rear and upgrade to 9 speed that starts from 11T to a maximum 34T. Then your spectrum goes from 94.54 GI to 30.58 GI. This gives more improvement on the high gear and a sacrifice of 3 GI from the low gear end.

At this stage if you add another 39T chain ring the ratio goes from 94.54 GI to 22.94 GI which is a huge improvement. The problem with 7 speeds is the rear cogs starts from 14T. If you can find 7 speed cogs that starts from 11T (freewheel types) then it is worthwhile to add a dual crank first.

As for mountain bikes, they are designed to climb and their GI is from 104 GI to 22.94 GI which is a very wide range! As for my 3 bikes at home they range from 94.54 GI to 17.64 GI for the triple cranks.

Here's the formula for GI, maybe yo can make your decision on your own. GI = no. teeth on crank / no. of teeth at the rear X diameter of wheel.

Usual 7 speed ratios - 14T to 28T ( I have seen 11T to 28T but this is rare. The brand is Epoch)
" 8 speed ratios - 11T to 30T / 12T to 32T
" 9 speed ratios - 11T to 32T / 12T to 34T
' 10 speed ratios - 11T to 36T / 12T to 36T

As for front dual chain rings - usual is 53/39T or 50/36T for compact cranks
triple " " - 52/32/30 T

Nice worr. Oyama bikes are not bad and some are nice. I think Pedalsport is bringing it in nowadays. With this, change the front fork to RST 50mm suspension fork and change a better rearshock and you get a full sus folding bike. Th 6 speed is the damper here! Back to changing wheelsets and 9 speed tc. etc. I think it will be a nice bike

well i believe mine's a 11 - 30t with a front 53t that gives me a 33 - 90 GI if i read the info correctly..

i can cycle up even to air itam dam but i'd like to make it easier for climbing

then again i also want the wheel to be smoother too

any idea which shld i upgrade first n how much would they cost respectively? assuming i'm just going for the decent-enough entry level components

the reason y i wanna get a trigger shifter first is bcuz i wanna change the stock grip to one with bar end, also because trigger feels nicer la

so i'm guessing u'd either recommend to stick to 7 speed n add a dual chainring first OR change the wheelset plus upgrade to 9/10 speed..?

At least u guys can change to dual chain ring. Mine Ugo can't change and if I really wan to, then need to potong some of the frame structure cause no space for FD.

This post has been edited by adriankhoo153: Oct 10 2013, 02:01 PM

Manual shift by hand....

Internal 11 speed is cost a bomb here some one quoted me rm 2.2k for shimano internal 11 speed, so i go for internal 8 speed which cost half

old doesn't means poor, i still have my 20+ year old racing bike with first generation Shimano 105 component

that tight? not even with a FD hanger like litepro's?

i thought it was an el cheapo bike that i wanted to discard already, until i notice the carbon design n all the deore xt/lx component

luckily i din sell it off to the recycling center

no those generation xt/lx tak boleh pakai want, u need new version ......
* Btw u need some one collect ur rubbish ? i'm free to do it heheehhe

try this...
http://www.bicyclebuysell.com/item/193956/...oupset-for-sell

etigge...

bro... you are selling your fsa tempo crank set arrr...
does it come with the bash guard..
thinking of changing my wife kukuxumusu 46t to 52t

well my 'rubbish' can overtake lotsa 10Ks bikes on the way up to itam dam so i'm more than happy with it

dont want gripshift anymore le

can buy the wheel set with gear...
last I asked..the owner said so

rm500 eh.. now still deciding whether to upgrade the foldie or get a proper mtb bike first, cannot have both

bro 2kia..

if yo want to buy a mtb..I have 1 for sale...
jamis durango comp 2012..
bought due to itcheee finger..but never ridden before..
I ride minivelo and foldie must of the time...

come...come... buy from me so that I can apply from my financial controller to buy the jetstream from bbs...

haha not gonna buy that soon la bro.. still deciding cuz scared new job might not allow me to ride as often as i'd like

same here...
I only have time to ride during night time...
soo... usually I ride from my factory...victoria st...
using pengkalan weld to lebuh light..sultan ahmad shah to jln larut..anson rd to perak rdthan turning to jln dato keramat to komtar..
using penang rd to burma rd..turn in jln nagor to jln hutton crossing to cambell st..carnrvonst st turn to lim chwee leong back to pengkalan weld..

its a 9+km ride... just do it on time trail..
did it on my mu uno (52tx18T) with 20-25min per round for 3 round (my max round per hour)
I ride on every tue and thu..9pm to 10pm..

my mu uno during morning is my chicken rice bike...used to tau pau lunch...

This post has been edited by myak9: Oct 10 2013, 04:00 PM

the neos like kena bash before...

ur rubbish mtb can do the job then it should be sufficient alrd lah bro, no need new one i oso have 1 old mtb upgrade some of the part ride it sometime but it collect dust most of the time .. if time premit i will ride my foldie more than mtb .. i will only be able to ride in d morning coz start work at 2pm until 11pm.. my route will be from sg ara-bayan lepas-bayan baru (pit stop at market for breakfast or sometime to office) then back to sg ara....

Need to potong this part


To something like this. Notice the cut joint? Not sure it it's safe to cut jes like that.
It's the body frame joint