The pump has a lever driven by camshaft inside the engines. Attached pics should clarify.

btw that's a DAMN simple design, no accuracy in fuel pumping at all... i can see the reason of my shitty FC already aside my right foot attached to a lead ball

Actually the fuel pump is not the one controlling fuel metering to the engine, it is the job of the carburettor. The fuelpump just pumps and if the carb is full the float jams the supply shut. So the fuel pump which keeps pumping will sent the excess back to the tank via a return pipe. That's why the fuel pump have 3 hoses.

see http://www.acksfaq.com/mechanical_fuel_pump.htm

I also learnt something new today : the fuel pump has a vent tube which is normally for the diaphragm to 'breathe'. It is also an outlet for fuel to bleed out when the diaphragm ruptures.

Not sure if Iswara got this feature, it can be a useful early indicator of fuel pump failure before we get stranded. On the other hand, such petrol leaking out can be a hazard.

and carbs aren't the most efficient thing in automotive, hence everyone else moved out of it lol

i wonder if i should replace the fuel pump...
the internals cannot be serviced right? not too sure if it's expensive or not to replace if buying ori proton

Very true, someone described a carb function as a 'controlled fuel leak'.

OTOH, the fuel injection has less room for DIY. IINM you have to go back to the authorised workshop to repair, tune, check the ECU codes?

I never heard of people changing the diaphragm (which is the part likely to fail). Maybe the manufacturers design it this way.

I wonder if our forumners come across such thing, any comments from experience?

well if you have those expensive equipments you could probably DIY FI's... but eh

if the part isn't too expensive maybe can just replace it anyways, like how one does to our cheap oil/air/fuel/atf filters.

Sadly, now is the era of throw-away parts. Just like nobody repair handphones, TVs, fans, printers ... anymore.

Anyway according to this post
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2483173
(post#14) the price of fuel pump is "below RM160" last year.

my iswara front converted to LMST.

if you want to do a proper conversion, will cost over between 1-2k, as you need to change most of the front chassis/bumper mounting points, fenders/bonnet

headlamps brand new original (recommended) is around 330 per piece/660 per pair.

the rest using 3rd party/taiwan materials. still needed over 1k.
if you cheapskate and do hackjob/knocking/drilling, used or non ori headlamps, then perhaps can do under 1k. however upon collision, your chassis is going to take a huge beating. not to mention night driving could be bad depending on the conditions of the headlamps you gotten.

picture: http://twitpic.com/cwd0ax

i just ask the workshop and he said no need to replace all thing,just change the bumper itself and bracket..headlamp can use the current one..is it true?

Which one is the cable that is connected to the odometer and trip meter. Both odometer and trip meter on my Iswara stopped running.

Ermm wanna ask... The steering nut for iswara is which size? Can we use the tyre spider lug wrench (the t shape 4 heads wrench) to loosen it?

Is the indicator for vehicle speed ok, or also not responding, or is just the trip & odometer kaput? IINM, the speedo cable moves all three.

If the speed dial is behaving normally, then your cable is ok, the problem is the gear mechanism for the km counter may be damaged or jammed by something.

The indicator for vehicle speed works fine. The odometer and the trip meter jammed since I bought the car 2nd hand in 2011. I did ask my mechanic, he said can just change the middle part for RM180. Is that my only option? Is there no other way to repair the gear mechanism?

The problem of "engine can crank, but does not fire" has many causes mainly classified under fuel problem, electrical problem and compression problem, and need to check to eliminate each one.

1) Take out the spark plugs and look at the condition for clues. You can google "spark plug condition" under images and you can see lots of pictures & guides.

2) See if your carburettor auto-choke is at the right position for cold engine.

3) To see you have a 'flooded engine', press fully the petrol pedal & maintain at that position (do not pump)  and crank the engine. This will help clear excess fuel in flooded engine.

4) To see if you have 'no fuel supply' problem, open the air filter, push back the carburettor piston and spray some carb cleaner  down inside (to be used as fuel), then crank the engine. If it fires for a short while, it's confirmed.

5) Electrical :
To test whether ignition system is the problem, remove one of the cables to the plug, fit in a spare spark plug, place this on the engine body with the plug screw thread touching the engine body (use a tape to hold in place), then ask a helper to crank the engine. Observe whether got spark. Caution: high voltage, do not touch the set-up when cranking - can give you electric shock. Also, if there is petrol leaks nearby, it may ignited by this.

You can google "testing ignition coil on plug" e.g.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshoo...st-manual_2.htm
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-te...-in-a-vehicle#b
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU

Can you explain in detail and maybe with some pictures about the carburetor auto choke. Where is this part?

At the right side of the carburettor you can see a small piston looks like a 'shock absorber' with a fat spring.
When engine is cold, it should be retracted, and you should see some slack in the the throttle cable.