Diy the cabin filter also then teach us lah

My iswara jerk these 2 days.

When driving suddenly the RPM drop to 0. Then ok again & will jerk sometimes.

Had changed spark plug.

Any advice?

grounding cables, grounding on the radiator fan, better battery, make sure altenator not faulty.

check distributor/plug cable/carb (consider doing carb cleaning first)/fuel filter
this is assuming you do regular service/maintenance on time

is it safe to use samco hos radiator?blue looks more nice compare with standard..

Finally managed to replace it, plus also another kaput one at the back door (which is relatively easy compared to the front door one).

For the front door one, have to remove also the 3 outside screws holding the lock mechanism, then bend the flexible linkages to move the lock/actuator assembly away from the skin until got just enough space to fit in a tiny spanner inside and loosen the top 2 screws bit by bit. All this have to be done inside the door, as the assembly is attached to so many linkage rods. 2 hrs job for 2 doors, cost of parts RM42 x2. Thanks poolcarpet for the advice.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 25 2013, 01:38 PM

Can try clean the throttle body

1) The old spark plugs have any signs of oily, carbon deposits?
2) Any pattern to the jerking/stalling, like time of day, after long drive, or just random?
3) After stalling, any difficulty re-starting?


This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 25 2013, 07:09 PM

1) got signs of oil
2) Jerking this few days only (random - sometimes driving)
3) Need to crank few times to start back

I assume you mean that the signs of oil is on the tip / electrodes .
When the jerking occurs again, park your car in a safe place (no traffic or car-hijackers) Don't stop engine yet, open the bonnet and see if got sparks around the spark plug cables & distributor. (best done at night). Caution: high voltage , do not touch the cables.

Then stop the engine and remove the spark plugs for another look.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 26 2013, 12:55 PM

Will try,

I suspect is the piston problem causing the oil to flow to the plug.

anyone have torque specifications for our valve cover bolts? or dont care and just tighten it snug (so long it doesn't over tighten to compromise the gasket?

also does our tappet adjustment requires hot or cold adjust?

=edit=
ok got this:
http://www.mivec.co.nz/tech/4G1x_Engine_Manual.pdf
gonna pin it on first page

Valve clearance adjustment
<SOHC 12 valve>
(refer the engine manual link above)
Standard value on cold engine:
intake 0.09mm
exhaust 0.17mm
Standard value on hot engine(this should be the value shown on your car/chassis sticker):
intake 0.20mm
exhaust 0.25mm (i'll double confirm this in a bit)

anyways do our engine rocker cover requires sealant application? or just the rubber gasket will do?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 27 2013, 04:49 AM

Another version which has ignition timing info.
http://mitsu.ro/docs/Colt-91-95/workshop_manual.pdf

hehe much thanks... i know mine's pretty damn advanced on the ignition timing. have to verify it with a timing light once i can get my hands on one some time later lol

sifu here, iswara compressor if change to new gas type berapa?
my aircond not cold, it feels like no aircond when in hot weather..only wind blowing..

get it properly diagnosed. don't change for the sake of changing.

bro u noe any place to get it diagnosed without getting slit throat?
kl area

i go to uni car, denso authorized dealer.

how much they charge for diagnosed?
any contact?

http://www.denso.com.my/content/service-de...st.php?state=14


simple checks free; however as they only use original denso parts, it won't be cheap