Meter cluster DIY
1) Pry out the push switches (air-con, demister, hazard etc) at the sides, and unplug their sockets
2) Unscrew 4 screws that secures the hood (2 under top, 2 at bottom).
3) Remove the hood.
4) You can see the meter cluster secured by another 4 screws. Remove these screws.
5) The meter cluster is attached to the speedo cable and 2 wiring sockets. Disconnect the 2 wiring sockets.
6) Disconnect the speedo cable by pressing on a clip (I think is white colour)(Below is sample picture illustration of speedo cable clip connection) . You have to stand outside the car and see through the windscreen. This step is a bit tight because of cramped space, but you can push the speedo cable from the engine compartment to allow more access space. After disconnecting speedo cable you can remove the whole cluster.
7) The 3 meters are separated by 2 grooved mounting rails which are covered by tamper-proof stickers on top of the instrument cluster. The rails have a little protrusion or 'feet' for you to pull out - careful not to break it if too much force is applied.
8) Remove the screws around the edge of the circuit boards. The center meter is locked to the other 2 meters by flaps, which you have to manipulate to free the meters.
9) Examine the plastic gears for any broken mechanisms. Try to turn the digits to see if there are foreign objects jamming the teeth.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 30 2013, 07:56 PM


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Looks ok to me.

Will work on it and update

Life became miserable again when my car cannot start this morning.

Here's the list of things that was done when the car first had this starting problem:

1) Changed all spark plugs.
2) Changed new vacuum pump.
3) Serviced the carburetor.
4) Changed new distributor.
5) Changed new fuel pump.

As I said, battery is ok. There's a strong smell of petrol after I try to start the car. There is cranking but the engine is not starting. I will call the mechanic tomorrow morning. What should I ask him to check? Please help me

Need suggestion.

Mechanic suspect distributor problem.

Should i go for APM or original proton distributor??

For sure i wont go for recon or taiwan distributor .

From your description, you either have a 'flooded engine' (i.e. too much petrol, which can also foul the plugs), or ignition failure. Fuel supply seems ok.
Ask your mechanic to:
1) open the spark plugs to see their condition for clues
2) Check if the ignition system is ok by doing a spark test or using timing light (a small chance the new distributor is faulty)
3) Floor the accelerator and try to start (don't pump the pedal) to clear flooded engine condition

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 31 2013, 10:57 AM

original proton (which is OEM by APM)

So is the packaging?

Coz i c one is APM(red)

Another is from Proton sticker (blue color

Price different about RM30-40 depending on location

packaging obviously different. distributor itself, BY RIGHT should be same since proton also got theirs from APM

if want con9lan7firm no issue then proton (got issue can f*** proton upside down lol), else APM for the cheaper price i guess.

How did the mechanic confirm that it is the distributor? I am just curious to know how to do the tests, might be helpful for my future troubleshooting.

He didnt check.

I just mention the problem.

Consult some of my friends, they also said is distributor.

Just to confirm, you did not buy petrol from a station that was recently flooded, just before the problems started?

Nope.

Which petrol station recently hit by flood?

Just checking the possibility that your problems might be due to contaminated fuel. Many years back one such case happened, can't remember where or when, the petrol station underground tank got water seepage, many vehicles got engine trouble after filling from that station, symptoms similar to yours.

For your case, it would be advisable if you can borrow a spare distributor unit and use and see if got any difference, before putting your money on a new one. That is a mechanic is willing to loan one to you!

that's very awesome detatils...

Today morning I did the step 3 but it failed. Called the mechanic, he said spark plug and cable is ok. He removed the air filter and the cover. He did the 'pancing' method where he covered the carburetor with his palm and start the engine. After few 'pancing' the engine started. When he rev the engine, thick black smoke came out of the exhaust. Brought the car to the workshop and this time he added a condenser to the new distributor that i changed few weeks ago. Cost me RM40. Now can start easily, duno what will happen after few days...

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Thanks for the update, hopefully your troubles are over.

Just to understand what is the cause:
1) Did the mechanic say why cannot start?
2) Why did he add the condensor, your distributor is a new one, spark plug & cable are ok. Ignition system got some problem?
3) The confusing part is the thick smoke means rich mixture (flooding), but the pancing method is like a choke action.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Nov 1 2013, 10:16 AM

anyone wanna let go used adjustables for iswara? LOL.

thinking to go for long term maintenance with adjustables rather than changing abs every time it kongs.

however, i did heard reviews on reservicing standard abs by letting out the gas and inject oil in it. any comments on this?

kiss goodbye to comfort. and considering the money you need to spend for *good* adjustable, it'll take a LONG time for ROI if money saving is what you're planning on

if money and comfort is the highest concern, KYB.

im using proride gas abs..standard specs.comfort is good but the rear abs got kruk kruk sound already in less than 9 months since purchase..hmm..