thanks bro...will get my car for diagnosed soon

Ok confirmed, adjust on hot, not cold http://twitpic.com/dj0n77

time to DIY after 900ish km for OCI
Albert B

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 28 2013, 07:49 AM

anyone here on 13" rims and planning to upgrade to 14"? let me know cause i want to buy your 13" rims

Where is the location of the sticker for the timing & valve adjustment values?

Also , the 10 degrees BTDC stated in the sticker appears to be with the vacuum advance hose attached. Some cars manufacturers specify the adjustment with vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. The difference with & without the vacuum can be 5 to 8 degrees advance.

my car is first hand 14 years till now and i am very particular on the stickers etc being removed/tampered upon repairs.
so yeah they are still there, on the chassis at the firewall unlike most cars today stuck under the bonnet which i have replaced at least 2-3 times (accidents) lol

hmm AFAIK from the manual and sticker there is no mention of disconnecting the hose. either way my car's *SHOULD* be slightly over 10degrees as there isn't much room left for maximum advancement. what's the maximum degree for our car ignition advance anyways?

Both the Iswaras that I used do not have that sticker, have only for engine model, air-con fluid and paint color.
The owner's manual gives the valve clearance but not ignition timing.

From what I read, the actual ignition timing is composed of 3 parts:
1. Basic setting i.e. angle setting at distributor (vacuum hose disconnected), typically is 3 to 5 degrees.
2. Advance due to engine vacuum (more vacuum = less loading of fuel/air = slower burning, so need to ignite
earlier) + another 5 degrees , for example.
3. Advance due to rpm (need to ignite earlier to catch up with faster piston speed) + another 10 degrees, for
example.

So actual timing during running = 5 + 5 + 10 = 20 degrees for the example above.
At the distributor you set at 5 degrees (but no indicator to show), and the timing light will read at 10 degrees
bcos the vacuum hose will add another 5 degrees due to high vacuum at idle speed of 800rpm. (I believe this is the one specified in the sticker). When you pull out the vacuum hose, the timing light will show retardation of 5 degrees. When you press the petrol pedal to rev the engine, you can see from the timing light the automatic advancement, the amount depending on the speed.

I calculate roughly by measuring from photos of the distributor the length of the slot and the radius, it gives a
maximum adjustment of about 15 degrees on either side of center.

well my iswara was a full spec/premium line that costed almost 50k when my family bought it during 1999. so i guess it came with all the bells/whistles... 13" or was it 14" sport rims too, that 2 gotten stolen, 1 i crashed a curb, and the last one is sitting in my trunk as spare tire lol.

considering the complications as per your description, i can see why most mechs based on feel/experience over using actual timing lights/exact SOP's.

according to my mech anyways my distributor should be between 11-12 degrees in advance. borderline for RON95. and upon very hot weather/constant high (over 6k rpm) load/temperature it may sometimes knock a bit.

the ignition advance i did before my track day was somewhere between my original settings and maximum advance (which according to you is 15 degrees) so i should be sitting between 13-14.
i believe the auto advancing due to high rpm/load shouldn't be too much of a concern for adjustment and is more of a "load test" for engine knocks to see if your ignition advance is good to go (eg: track days)

Almost RM50k for an Iswara? What else did they give you besides the rims?

I agree with you concerning the foreman tuning the timing by feel and ear, as my previous foreman did (I think something like looking at vibrations at either side and setting at midway position ).

inside more premium trims i guess? lasted 14 years lol...
4g15 3 speed auto... (auto was much more expensive back then than it is today)
can't remember everything, you'll have to find back the old brochures if they still exist.

for my own tuning, i get my sister to sit in the car and rev to gauge high rpm (5-6k) knocking as that's my only concern during track day

My mechanic had changed this part for the starting problem and now the car is ok... till now...
Anyways, what is this part?

This post has been edited by gemini sharti: Oct 28 2013, 11:33 PM

Which one is the cable that is connected to the odometer and trip meter. Both odometer and trip meter on my Iswara stopped running.

neither that is photo below the gearstick right? it's not there

it's a cable connected from the gearbox to the meter console, e.g. the one in the center (gold color ring..). if after changing cable it's still not working, then probably your meter kaput.

ori proton speedometer/odometer costs RM150 (just the middle part).

it's a real PITA to replace, unless you are really patient and good with diy



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/kahc...16052008833.jpg


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 29 2013, 12:19 AM

iinm that's the EGR. engine choking basically lol

hi guys,

how much cost to convert old iswara to lmst (front only)?which part need to replace? cun or not old iswara using lmst bumper

Looks like the fuel pump. So the cause of all your troubles is no fuel supply to the carburettor.

eh fuel pump not at the fuel tank a? or old model cars have it in the front?

somemore that thing so small, using engine vacuum to pump?

my iswara front converted to LMST.

if you want to do a proper conversion, will cost over between 1-2k, as you need to change most of the front chassis/bumper mounting points, fenders/bonnet

headlamps brand new original (recommended) is around 330 per piece/660 per pair.

the rest using 3rd party/taiwan materials. still needed over 1k.
if you cheapskate and do hackjob/knocking/drilling, used or non ori headlamps, then perhaps can do under 1k. however upon collision, your chassis is going to take a huge beating. not to mention night driving could be bad depending on the conditions of the headlamps you gotten.

picture: http://twitpic.com/cwd0ax

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1549104/all

thanks for the link bro! pinning this information on first page

The pump has a lever driven by camshaft inside the engines. Attached pics should clarify.


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