The problem of "engine can crank, but does not fire" has many causes mainly classified under fuel problem, electrical problem and compression problem, and need to check to eliminate each one.

1) Take out the spark plugs and look at the condition for clues. You can google "spark plug condition" under images and you can see lots of pictures & guides.

2) See if your carburettor auto-choke is at the right position for cold engine.

3) To see you have a 'flooded engine', press fully the petrol pedal & maintain at that position (do not pump)  and crank the engine. This will help clear excess fuel in flooded engine.

4) To see if you have 'no fuel supply' problem, open the air filter, push back the carburettor piston and spray some carb cleaner  down inside (to be used as fuel), then crank the engine. If it fires for a short while, it's confirmed.

5) Electrical :
To test whether ignition system is the problem, remove one of the cables to the plug, fit in a spare spark plug, place this on the engine body with the plug screw thread touching the engine body (use a tape to hold in place), then ask a helper to crank the engine. Observe whether got spark. Caution: high voltage, do not touch the set-up when cranking - can give you electric shock. Also, if there is petrol leaks nearby, it may ignited by this.

You can google "testing ignition coil on plug" e.g.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshoo...st-manual_2.htm
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-te...-in-a-vehicle#b
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU

usually people top overhaul at 100k km
however before doing that, consider cheaper fixes such as engine flush/fuel system flush (and after that replace fuel filter, rm7 or something iinm lol)/carburetor cleaning first.
if it solves your problem, then you don't need to spend expensive cost for top overhauling
for gasket, replace when it is leaking, simple as that.
AC service is every 30-50k km or 1-2 years depending on your budget and/or how cold the ac is. the longer it is delayed the poorer the performance and the more work the compressor has to do (which will hasten it's deterioration) not to mention extra load on the engine. (as the compressor magnetic clutch engages more often/permanent)

for vibration, check engine mountings, and tune carb idles to suit your needs. check if the thermostat is functioning properly since you also mention that the heat goes up...
actually the car by default comes with drop in, those performance mods are typically open pods which i find not very good for our car since we can't really get a space with good CAI and our engine bay is REALLY hot especially with modded/exposed exhaust extractors

for cooling, suggest you properly diagnose your existing system/flush the radiator first

steel braided hose improves braking response and prevent hose expansion which will have spongy braking if it really gets heated up/hose expanded. it doesn't quite improves stopping power, though theoretically if you can brake faster you do brake better.

x drilled rotors that have holes aren't really for cooling, vents does most of the job which our car can't directly mod plug and play vented discs (afaik, need half cut parts and may require some mods at the knuckle)
they are mainly for more aggressive shaving of the pads (which could offer slightly better braking power) as well as removing gases that may accumulate when the pads get hot. (slots perform similar functions as well)
the cooling effect of the drilled holes are minimal.
(do google up on rotors and their characteristics such as slotted/x drilled)
if you're "not a racer", stock blanks are enough

for handling, try something like progressive springs + short stroke absorbers such as improve propex.
the rear however don't go with short strokes, and don't get too stiff of an absorber.
try to get the spring harder though

Hi, just got my carburetor cleaned today, and change new radiator hose and flushed down, also added coolant in it. The heat up caused by the radiator sensor, it has a tiny leak at the sensor part and now i can see the fan running all the time compare last time. Changed 2 pcs front and rear engine mounting now the car is not so vibrate anymore. 1 spark plug loosen its spark caused by the cable is not tighten. Changed 4pcs of them and done servicing, change oil filter, air filter and topped up with Lucas semi oil (gives me extra 2k of mileage compare to last time) . Response of the car is slightly better and smoother. Now i have another issue is whenever my A/C kicks in while idling it still have a slightly vibrate, once i step the throttle abit and let go the vibrate gone.  How to solve this? I've seen my workshop friend's car his wira front brake modded with evo brakes (2pot) but he say need to change the rim to bigger to fit that disc. Our car izit possible to fit 2pot? Although my car is not fast but im looking for better brake performance. All the maintenance spenT RM600++

For the ac idling, consider increasing the air cond idle rpm from carburetor, and/or check on your car existing grounding conditions (if bad, replace/add more grounding cables on points such as the alternator to chassis & battery and the aircond compressor towards chassis)

for caliper modding, best if you mod the brake servo/master pump as well. only modding caliper *MAY* result in poorer braking as there isn't enough clamping force from the master brake pump

for better braking without much modding, can consider better brake pads

Any recommendation? Any good workshop for this kinda modding? roughly the price? Tqs. Will upload some pictures soon.

hi guys, where is location of cabin filter for saga iswara LE (silver color version)? want to clean the filter..

we have none. you can however, clean the fan blower which sifu poolcarpet shared in PDF format previously (i printed out lol!)
the way it is designed the fan does seem to be able to trap some dust and eventually it'll be VERY dirty

Need some advice - how to remove the door lock actuator solenoid at the front driver side door (Iswara model). Can only find one mounting screw, but still got something attached inside.

we have none. you can however, clean the fan blower which sifu poolcarpet shared in PDF format previously (i printed out lol!)
the way it is designed the fan does seem to be able to trap some dust and eventually it'll be VERY dirty

haha, i wouldn't claim to be sifu man!!! many real sifu here 

i still have not tried DIY the cabin filter, lol no time to meddle with it yet, maybe next month

damn that reminds me LOL!
eh do update us whenever you do it

you got a photo?

if you take a photo maybe i can point it out if i can remember... i took it out before, diy replaced it, but dont have a photo of it so i can't remember for sure...

The photo of the replacement part is as below, showing view from both sides, in the correct vertical position. Will take a photo of the door tomorrow.

The bottom screw is ok, but how to unfasten the top portion? If it is attached to the lock mechanism, then the lock mechanism must be removed together ?

i have one problem with my radio,most of the times failed to searching local radio station,is it problem with radio player or wirering itself.sometimes can hear,lets say i hear hitz fm and at the same times hear other station also,2 radion station in one channel...