usually people top overhaul at 100k km
however before doing that, consider cheaper fixes such as engine flush/fuel system flush (and after that replace fuel filter, rm7 or something iinm lol)/carburetor cleaning first.
if it solves your problem, then you don't need to spend expensive cost for top overhauling
for gasket, replace when it is leaking, simple as that.
AC service is every 30-50k km or 1-2 years depending on your budget and/or how cold the ac is. the longer it is delayed the poorer the performance and the more work the compressor has to do (which will hasten it's deterioration) not to mention extra load on the engine. (as the compressor magnetic clutch engages more often/permanent)

for vibration, check engine mountings, and tune carb idles to suit your needs. check if the thermostat is functioning properly since you also mention that the heat goes up...
actually the car by default comes with drop in, those performance mods are typically open pods which i find not very good for our car since we can't really get a space with good CAI and our engine bay is REALLY hot especially with modded/exposed exhaust extractors

for cooling, suggest you properly diagnose your existing system/flush the radiator first

steel braided hose improves braking response and prevent hose expansion which will have spongy braking if it really gets heated up/hose expanded. it doesn't quite improves stopping power, though theoretically if you can brake faster you do brake better.

x drilled rotors that have holes aren't really for cooling, vents does most of the job which our car can't directly mod plug and play vented discs (afaik, need half cut parts and may require some mods at the knuckle)
they are mainly for more aggressive shaving of the pads (which could offer slightly better braking power) as well as removing gases that may accumulate when the pads get hot. (slots perform similar functions as well)
the cooling effect of the drilled holes are minimal.
(do google up on rotors and their characteristics such as slotted/x drilled)
if you're "not a racer", stock blanks are enough

for handling, try something like progressive springs + short stroke absorbers such as improve propex.
the rear however don't go with short strokes, and don't get too stiff of an absorber.
try to get the spring harder though

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 21 2013, 09:18 AM

thanks for the comments bro.

music is more of my preference. and it's not like i really pay attention to the music since it's something i listen to everyday without fail whenever i'm in the car
and you're too kind, just looking at the videos myself i've found way too many things that could have gone better, and that could have helped reduced maybe a second or even 2

btw by maintenance stage, your swift or you still keeping your saga?

Lower arms are claimed is OEM, that's why cheaper than original.

Engine oil, tried Molybdenum (Semi Synthetic) SM/CF 10W40, but the oil level decrease too fast, always gone below Low Level just within 3000 km, lucky i noticed it and top up with the remaining oil in bottle. To be safe i stay with the engine oil sell by the shop, even though the oil level still decrease, but still above Low Level.


I need change rotor cos mine already not good, a lot of lines already, weak stopping power and vibrate when braking, so i changed it.

The new one suppose same as below picture.


frankly speaking, after all the repair, i only feel the braking power improve (now i know the previous brake is very very terrible and luckily i still safe), no significant feel from other part replacement, feel like waste.

Anyone know where i can find this type of clip(or whatever it call)? It can be found at boot area

liqui moly or some other brand? never heard of molybdenum (although liqui moly's MOS2 additive is basically molybdenum)
and if you're having enjoy oil leaks, use any oil should not be an issue. if your engine is not having any leaks at all, using good EO (eg: having higher flashpoint) will prevent engine oil consumption

rotor if it isn't too worn, can be skimmed (grinded to flat surface)

repair as they are needed is good, what isn't good is that the workshop is very shady on the pricing/repair works.
as for the clips, i believe most workshops should have it... 20sen-50sen each iinm.
some may not charge for it (or basically include it as labor or other charges)

From your description, it is like as if totally no power supply to the air-con system.

Remove the air-con switch and put a voltmeter to check if there is 12V between the pins and the nearest earth point.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 21 2013, 05:41 PM

done edy, there is no 12v in either of the pins.. is there anything else that I missed out??

We can call you Sifu d..when wanna pass some skills to us

Lol, I missed out the EO brand, it's Eneos. My headlamp still troubling me, the brightness suddenly drops,visibility very poor when driving on road with no lighting. Tried replace with new bulb still same. Measure voltage to ground is around 13.4v,

Eneos shouldn't be bad, could be something else i reckon.

if car is running on alternator, it should be above 14v. 13.4 is a bit worrisome, consider checking on grounding points/adding grounding cables?

Pull out the fuse, then measure the volt of the the fuse sockets, to see if got 12V supply.

1) Both lamps or one side only?
2) Is it always dim, or on and off?

Thanks for the suggestions!

At battery terminal also get around 13.5V only, with A/C off somemore.
Battery 2 months old. Got erictioh VS and GCx2

both sides same brightness, and stay dim.
the current headlamps is non-ori unit replaced during my last accident.
the light cannot focus on the ground, seem projected upwards and scattered, and i was told cannot adjust to shine more on road.
still consider to get ori LMST headlamps for replacement.

nah...just use ur ad08r lar...for what you buy a uhp and use for only daily drive? rite? -.-

This gonna be my fevourite thread XD..
Any recommendation brand for spark plug cable and how much is it in the market as I'm plan to buy Bosch Super Spark Plug from one of the seller here to replace my old set.. Or stick to old cable??

ask his advice? possible to be the alternator or battery condition.

daily drive got my c drive 2 mah
just thinking of used tires cip cip price for cheapjing lol

the original bougicord actually more expensive than bosch.
i'm using bosch and imho they are ok for the price

any reommendation brand for the cabel or should stick to the old set???

if not faulty just stick with it