Hi sifus... Sorry for a noob question. How to take/pull out the LMST aircond knob/tombol. It's loose and becomes the mother of all noise rite now. Try pulling it quite hard but fails.

Nice drift

wanna ask that iswara can change engine to 1.6litre ?

TQ. I tried to powerslide plus weight shifting at the same.

So happy! The metal crunching sound is finally solved! Who would've thought 2 bolts would be the culprit http://twitpic.com/dhwbiu
davidke20

mH3nG
added you to owner list

nice chatting with you bro

Where about?

Haha thanks.
It was a pleasant surprise.
Didn't expect to bump into another forummer there.
Small world huh?

the 2 bolts that secures the long metal beam that holds the engine mounting, is it called the cross section?
that's basically where the tow hook is located (which i grinded with the road/speed bumps thanks to my lousy driving/lowered car lolz)

the bolts are no longer straight, and when the engine has torque applied (stop/go, slow speed, 1st gear etc) it will shake the bolts and that's where the sound came from lol

applied grease *temporary* (i hope permanent LOL!) solved it

yes small world indeed hehe

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 20 2013, 03:53 AM

Oh... commonly known as cross member. But, how can those bolt be loosen Did you stiff ring lately? Engine overhaul?

no stiff ring lately no engine overhaul.
really no idea; would never even imagine that 2 bolts can produce a drive shaft like sound
only good guess it began with the accident i had early this year, then a combination of various speed bump scraping worsen it.

btw:
Final touch on the alignment http://twitpic.com/dhxrg5
Maximum advancement of my ignition timing. Mech wasn't kidding when he mention it's on ron95 limits lol http://twitpic.com/dhxrso
Found the sweet spot where it's no longer knocking on ron97, so with boosters, I'll be fine even onload/higher rpm http://twitpic.com/dhxs3g

hmm..gonna check my 2bolts as well...

waa..any trackday? woot!! -2.2 camber

btw, advancing distributor..try see when on aircond also..

edited:typo

This post has been edited by low yat 82: Oct 20 2013, 10:35 AM

Went to workshop to service my car, also to restore my headlamp (as i notice the light suddenly become dim since 2 days ago), and check whether my brake need to replace. I was recommended to mod my headlamp to suit 100W bulb, doing wiring and adding relay, which cost RM145, but dono why they said cannot just replace my current 55W bulbs, when i asked they say dont have and if want replace, replace together with the whole headlamps....is it true??
so let it be 1st, maybe can change if still got budget, extent budget from RM500-->RM800.

While checking front tires parts , i was told both my lower arms are loose already (thanks to all the pot holes i gone through ), and since i want to replace disc brakes, so i consider replace both lower arms together (after checking the cost).
When everything is removed, bush also need replace (was told cheap cheap only each), but when total up it does not cheap at all!

After waiting for 3 hours, I see they start to install back all the parts, and 'pak', broke my chamber screw (not again, another RM45 gone ) After everything done, fuh....wait, my headlamp.....check whether still within budget or not, "boss, how much my total repair cost already?" check the bill then passed to me, *stunned* RM900++ cant believe my eyes....fine, maybe next time and i was told my steering bush also need replace....

Today damage....

1) Bulbs can be changed easily (under RM20). No need to change head lamp. You can try to interchange the left & right bulbs to see the dim problem is the bulb or the circuit.

2) What does he mean the lower arms "loose"? Usually the worn out part is the bush that need to change.

BTW, what is the mileage of your car, from the bill looks like less than 70,000 km.

1. I bought a bulb and will try later when I get home.

2. What I mean is when lift up the car, try to push pull the side of the tyre to check whether fixed or moving.

3. My odo meter and speedometer changed before this.

Yesterday my 1997 Iswara's air-cond just stopped working nothing happens when i press the ac switch, compressor doesn't engage, ac fan and blower not spinning.. So, I checked the fuses, relay under the glove-box, and also the 2 main relay at the side of the right headlamp (behind the water reservoir) and all seems to be well.. i even shorted out the air cond switch just to be sure although there was no indication of current passing through there.. Any suggestions/ideas from any of the sifu's here??

Hi,

I've been driving my LMST for about 6years. Mileage runs about 106,000km. I never done any overhaul before. Parts that changed are the front radiator motor to APM motor and belting thats all. Recently found my car drink alot of petrol, loss its power and also easily get heat up while idling. I maintain my car very frequent, change engine oil and all. Another question is i wanna ask how often we need to overhaul the engine and change the gasket? And how often we need to service the A/C? I never service since i bought the car cause the A/C now is still very cold. And how to reduce the engine vibration each time we start the car?

So about performance, i wanna upgrade some stuff that need ask sifus here for advice. Im not a racer or what, i just wanna make my car slightly responsive and reliable. In my mind i thought of change the air filter into drop in air filter. But for the cold intake can i place it at the left fender hole and connect to the hole to the air filter hose that mounted infront? I heard people says aluminium radiator will improve cooling. If it is which type of brand is suitable? For braking, whats the purpose of changing to steel braided hose? Does this help to improve stopping power? Does those disc rotor have holes will reduce heating? If it is where i can get one? An which brake pad is good for down slope and up slope? I want a good handling too, im not going for those sport adjustable but want to have a good springs that improve connering.


Tqs.

maybe lose the music? and gain some concentration? anyways, its a very smooth run, hard to find faults in it. I never join track very long edi, my car is in the "maintenance" stage.

Just to prevent knocking lol (octane boosters and fuel additives) http://twitpic.com/di4q8t
and yes tested with high rpm/load etc
went Sepang lol

I really hate my car's fender lol http://twitpic.com/di4qha

category for my group (proton rookie under 1500cc) http://twitpic.com/di4qyy

Everyone else for my group (first session) I'm basically slowest car in my category however not slowest for the day http://twitpic.com/di4r8f

My rear trunk after both sessions are over rofl. I was wondering where was my bass half way in the track XD http://twitpic.com/di4rk0

Second session for my category; improved but still end up slowest. And is that really a 1.3 auto? Lol http://twitpic.com/di4ruz

Everyone else second session for my group. Feels a tad bit better I'm not slowest lol http://twitpic.com/di4s6z

change workshop la. scamming workshop. the lower arm, around rm220-240 can get proton brand new original, and my old one lasted me 14 years...
engine oil also dunno what oil, add bit more can get performance semi synthetics.
original proton oil filter, rm8 so 15 no matter what you see it is just stupid. id feel better if they just add more labor charge than just write there rm15 for oil filter lol.
rotor also need to change? without bearing? mmg waste time/labor punya lol.
and wtf satay bush + stabilizer bush... ring? if i add those 2 together, i can get original mitsubishi one at rm5x lol
the camber screw also they break it they replace la LOL
labor charge also 1 kind, very similar to proton SC. might as well go proton and get original parts if they gonna scam so high lol.
got tax some more like original SC LOL!