thanks for the comments bro, and will definitely look forward to your vids
i still got 1 last video coming up after i'm done compiling them hehe

hi uolls.. im driving lmst. i just already converted back 1.8 engine to standard 1.3 engine. just want to live in standard life now. just left to change exhaust to standard one. so, anyone here with good condition standard exhaust, or anyone to convert their lmst engine want to swap or buy my exhaust can pm me. i stay in ipoh.

davidke20 bro, from your exp. would other components other than drive shaft produce a "metal crunching sound" very similar to drive shaft sound ("kruk kruk"/"klok klok", or a sharp "krak") during throttle application? more so during stop-go situations. straight line or turning doesn't matter, and it's very intermittent not 100% got.

"other components" would mainly be tie rod end, steering rack, lower arm and so on.

Usually the front stop/go crunching sound came from ball joint, lower arm bushing, brake caliper mounting, strut tower bush(absorber mounting we called). Least concern is stabilizer bushing. Steering bushes doesn't emit sound, but when you turn already it doesn't push back then you know the steering bushing is wearing off.

thanks for the info, need some a bit more clarification:
ball joint? which ball joint is this, at the lower arm?
steering bush is the tie rod end or the stabilizer bush(err, the "nick" is monk head? rofl, compared to satay bush)? and what do you mean't by push back after turning?

http://youtu.be/kPcyoHYDfD4

My 1st short clip at the final turn. Still compiling a few more vids, stay tuned

This post has been edited by rozz_1291: Oct 16 2013, 04:49 PM

lol. finally u hav dat kind of sound? mine alrady long time.. sid said its d absorber mounting sound. its pretty normal...

another person says its d driveshaft.. infact he showed to me, when he turn d tire, d sound come..

hey ! anyone seems to have any idea whats the problem.
sometimes my car after travelling from kampar to ipoh(30minutes trunk road drive), after that i usually drive around town, then suddenly the car rpm is kinda high when idling, and the air-con is not cold(even when driving).

monk head

after turn konar, steering will not auto korek, then steering mounting bush KO

any recommendation of shock absorbers with higher damping rates than stock? preferably able to pair with a rated 4k rear springs. TQVM.

Akon kompressor sudah mau kong. Your current situation is after beginning to kong, now into middle stage jor. Pretty soon it's going to be terminal. At the middle stage, the clutch will not bite after long distance travel. Since your FICD not koyaked, the FICD will suck in more vacuum to lift your totobodi open a lil bit more. By right, this is to make sure your car idling won't kena disturbed by akon kompressor kick in. Now since your kompressor klac no bite, then ma RPM sohigh lor.

This is the bugger that makes the RPM sohigh(when your akon kompressor rosak)


Once the kompressor fully KO, inside piston will break into billion pieces


By that time, already too late. All the debris will be stuck in the cooling coil/condensor


Just to give you an idea, the left side pulley is the clutch thing. As an when you press the akon switch, the clutch will receive magnetic field and stick, so the pulley will turn the compressor.


So, now your magician told you all the cooling coil & condensor use chemical blast 1 round than can recycle jor. Replace a new kompressor and you show enjoy the breeze again


Take a closer look at the coil, the channels are just too thin to flush. Even the debris stuck there you try to blow out, it will stuck at some other corner. Until 1 day it decided to detach and hit your kompressor again... there you have the same situation again


So, basically your car nothing wrong. The akon kompressor is KONGing nia Good luck, and don't giam siap do this don't do that. Later you'll have to pay everything all over again

p/s: ayam not in akon biznes. don't get me wrong that ayam trying to threaten u to spend marnee

f*** you weih "ex-TS"



absorber mounting new, drive shaft just serviced, spent 1k for suspension overhaul/replacement...

guess what, sound still ada. FML lol
really no idea what's causing it :/

turned the tire, no sound though. only on stop go throttle application.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 16 2013, 11:01 PM

esoba mounting liao, quite clear and konfem. abang kah chai use PU mounting lastaim

aiks was gonna reply you but phone was dead earlier and forgotten...

Hardened bush lol http://twitpic.com/dhlgf5
Servicing the drive shaft. The grease is watery and pitch black lol http://twitpic.com/dhlgno
Lower arm, tie rod all leaking grease and having free play http://twitpic.com/dhlhae

and yes, after removing the tie rod, i now know what is that ball joint
total spent was almost 1k... ori proton lower arm 22x per, still half price compared to nissan's lower arm which i just recently replaced for the sentra.

ori mitsubishi stabilizer link/bush kit 5x per x2
ori proton lower arm stopper rubber (placed between the part where the arm is single bolted horizontally) rm8 per piece

oem (555 brand, japan woh they say lol) http://www.sankei-555.co.jp/ tie rod + tie rod end x2 for rm15x (5x per tie rod, a pair of tie rod end at 5x)

grabbed a spare ATF filter (rm20,already got the spare sump gasket bought last time) that was long pending since the usual part stockist i goto was out for a while and it was forgotten

labor and alignment almost 200
consider cheap since been at the shop from 2-3 pm until 8+ pm and got the drive shaft serviced as well.


all that, and the sound is still there. AT LEAST we got all the other possibilities eliminated, and i'll be looking into the absorber mounting after sepang this weekend i guess

what davidke20 said above.

additionally you can consider performing carb cleaning when you're gonna perform OCI on that day. because another minor possibility is that the idle is set a little higher to compensate air cond load/idle, and if you lower it your car will be on low rpm and cause heavy jerking due to old/dirty carb

for air cond, if you don't mind paying a lil more, can consider going uni car at wangsa maju/gombak area. they are denso authorized shop (and obviously only use genuine denso parts) and any car fixed by them they guarantee under 10 celcius when it leaves the shop lol

also they won't tell you to replace anything that is not needed. as david mentioned, condenser/cooling coil can be flushed. if it isn't leaking/still have stains after 2-3 flushes, then it will be reused.
same for compressor, if it aint broken, don't replace. they will service it will new compressor oil, perform all the vacuuming (air/other liquid from the system) and recycle with the correct air cond gas

=edit=
to add in, properly serviced air cond (every 30-50k km, or 1-2 years depending on budget, either mileage/year whichever comes first) will last the car's lifetime and if anyone wants to replace your air cond parts without proper/valid proof/reason, say no and look elsewhere.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 17 2013, 01:12 AM

are the springs lowered? if yes can consider IMPROVE propex short stroke absorbers.
they are a LOT stiffer so you WILL be sacrificing on comfort

hwl?

i mean not really turn tire, but rotate tire. if u jack up n rotate vry slowly , d sound will come out..

kanasai... fuh...

as in rotating the wheels while it's on the car? yeah done that lol

i got a 2 ton jack at home that's hydraulic so i can jack up my car anytime i want lol (which i did for various DIYs XD)

ooo...so when rotating it, got sound? mine got sound, dats y 1 pomen said its d driveshaft starts to eat abit, but it still useable n wont tercabut. another say its absorber sound. sifu sid say is mounting sound..

nope, no sound. else i wouldn't be so headache LOL!

but i determined it is drive shaft because of uneven torque distribution, when it was actually just f***ed up steering tie rod/tie rod end... OR the drive shaft also probably mattered since i did serviced 1 drive shaft (as per posted picture) while the other one is brand new

the torque distribution/steering 1 side upon throttle application is solved.
but the sound is still there

=edit=
btw the mounting, is it the rubber piece where proton calls it absorber mounting insulator (iinm)?
because if it is that, i changed that too. brand new. i even have my old one that im putting up for sale along with my old front APM sport including the insulators

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 17 2013, 04:33 PM