Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(

views
     
caesarx
post Sep 20 2013, 05:29 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


My car suddenly produce 'kuluk kuluk' sound, i suspect is from rear wheel brake area, but i unable to trace where it comes from. When wheel rotate slowly only can hear, when rotate fast the frequency to high to notice any sound.

Anyone can help me on the potential problem before I bring to workshop to rectify?
caesarx
post Oct 3 2013, 02:16 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(xiaoxianlol @ Sep 29 2013, 05:04 PM)
wanted ask, can iswara aeroback tail lamp fit into saga aeroback?

my saga aeroback tail lamp have leakage, the brakelight die very fast after everytime I replace it

wanted to change it, but the sparepart shop quote me a high price, rm200-300 for 1 side, if I remembered correctly

or if you guys have recommendation of led light smile.gif
*
Lol, mine also have this problem the water accumulate inside, i dig a small hole at bottom of the lamp for the water to flow out, since cant afford to change new. hehe laugh.gif


If i want to use brembo disc brake + OEM brake pad, any advise? My current break system do not give enough force during downhill, especially when break before go over a bump.
caesarx
post Oct 3 2013, 04:40 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 3 2013, 02:47 PM)
genting a? laugh.gif

keep OEM disc (TRW or brembo or even ori proton) will do
or IMP slotted + drill if you want better braking feel and don't mind faster pad wear/noise/additional brake dust

focus on the brake pads first.
make sure the fluids are fresh/proper bleeded as well.
*
My car only ever climb genting once early this year, and that time during down hill i already fill the braking force not that strong.
So i already change with OEM brake pad, but feel not much different, because i seldom do hard braking (slow driver tongue.gif ), so the old pad still in good condition, after 6 years of my driving.

Last month change rear brake shoe because cannot tahan the old brake keep 'screaming' when apply few breaking after car move.

But the disc never change before, i feel vibration during normal braking.
I getting RM180 /set for brembo disc, so plan to change the disc.
Hope braking can improve.

Compare to Saga BLM, FLX, their brake feel more stopping power. Maybe because mine 15" rim?

This post has been edited by caesarx: Oct 3 2013, 04:41 PM
caesarx
post Oct 3 2013, 05:37 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 3 2013, 04:57 PM)
lol my previous pads 9months habis laugh.gif

for disc vibration, if never skim before, can consider that. of course check for minimum wear rate/tolerance/cracks if can.
do take note changing discs for our saga/iswara will require reinstalling the wheel bearings, and if you're doing it, might as well get new ones, and machine press them properly back in the rotors. and please don't hammer/bang it in, it'll damage the seals.

that is why if can avoid, don't change the disc smile.gif

i'm on 15" rim too and i can lock my wheels within a second if i wanna jam it. that's how powerful the brakes (on mostly stock standard) are smile.gif
so have to really balance it out between the brakes and tires.
*
As our car dont have ABS, i once skidded and bang the car in front, after that incident, i dont like to do hard/sudden braking anymore, i practice slowly brake from quite a distance. That why i feel uncomfortable when sitting in my colleague car who like to break when approaching very close to obstacle in front.

following ur advice, then I will check the current disc condition 1st, if still skimable, then can proceed, else change new set. biggrin.gif

caesarx
post Oct 3 2013, 07:09 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 3 2013, 05:45 PM)
i tend to do that a lot, and i'm not even worried about the car in front, i'm more worried on the car behind me if he follows too close  sweat.gif

for the disc, do check for runouts/cracks/defects as well smile.gif
may want to check the wheel calipers/caliper pins, servo/master pump, bad brake pad surface (can just grind/sand a bit and re-bed in again) etc as well since vibrations from braking can be of many reasons, not the disc alone.
and if you're really gonna change, do prepare the wheel bearings, more so if you haven't changed them in a very long time.
*
Front wheel bearing the same as rear wheel? Just want to confirm to make order.
caesarx
post Oct 20 2013, 03:39 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


Went to workshop to service my car, also to restore my headlamp (as i notice the light suddenly become dim since 2 days ago), and check whether my brake need to replace. I was recommended to mod my headlamp to suit 100W bulb, doing wiring and adding relay, which cost RM145, but dono why they said cannot just replace my current 55W bulbs, when i asked they say dont have and if want replace, replace together with the whole headlamps....is it true??
hmm.gif so let it be 1st, maybe can change if still got budget, extent budget from RM500-->RM800.

While checking front tires parts , i was told both my lower arms are loose already (thanks to all the pot holes i gone through mad.gif ), and since i want to replace disc brakes, so i consider replace both lower arms together (after checking the cost).
When everything is removed, bush also need replace doh.gif (was told cheap cheap only each), but when total up it does not cheap at all! shakehead.gif

After waiting for 3 hours, I see they start to install back all the parts, and 'pak', broke my chamber screw doh.gif (not again, another RM45 gone moneyflies.gif ) After everything done, fuh....wait, my headlamp.....check whether still within budget or not, "boss, how much my total repair cost already?" check the bill then passed to me, *stunned* RM900++ cant believe my eyes....fine, maybe next time cry.gif and i was told my steering bush also need replace....

Today damage....
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



caesarx
post Oct 20 2013, 08:05 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 20 2013, 06:40 PM)
1) Bulbs can be changed easily (under RM20). No need to change head lamp. You can try to interchange the left & right bulbs to see the dim problem is the bulb or the circuit.

2) What does he mean the lower arms "loose"? Usually the worn out part is the bush that need to change.

BTW, what is the mileage of your car, from the bill looks like less than 70,000 km.
*
1. I bought a bulb and will try later when I get home.

2. What I mean is when lift up the car, try to push pull the side of the tyre to check whether fixed or moving.

3. My odo meter and speedometer changed before this.
caesarx
post Oct 21 2013, 03:53 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 21 2013, 09:03 AM)
change workshop la. scamming workshop. the lower arm, around rm220-240 can get proton brand new original, and my old one lasted me 14 years...
engine oil also dunno what oil, add bit more can get performance semi synthetics.
original proton oil filter, rm8 so 15 no matter what you see it is just stupid. id feel better if they just add more labor charge than just write there rm15 for oil filter lol.
rotor also need to change? without bearing? mmg waste time/labor punya lol.
and wtf satay bush + stabilizer bush... ring? if i add those 2 together, i can get original mitsubishi one at rm5x lol
the camber screw also doh.gif they break it they replace la LOL
labor charge also 1 kind, very similar to proton SC. might as well go proton and get original parts if they gonna scam so high lol.
got tax some more like original SC LOL!
*
Lower arms are claimed is OEM, that's why cheaper than original.

Engine oil, tried Molybdenum (Semi Synthetic) SM/CF 10W40, but the oil level decrease too fast, always gone below Low Level just within 3000 km, lucky i noticed it and top up with the remaining oil in bottle. To be safe i stay with the engine oil sell by the shop, even though the oil level still decrease, but still above Low Level.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I need change rotor cos mine already not good, a lot of lines already, weak stopping power and vibrate when braking, so i changed it.
user posted image
The new one suppose same as below picture.
user posted image

frankly speaking, after all the repair, i only feel the braking power improve (now i know the previous brake is very very terrible and luckily i still safe), no significant feel from other part replacement, feel like waste.

Anyone know where i can find this type of clip(or whatever it call)? It can be found at boot area
user posted image

caesarx
post Oct 21 2013, 06:59 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 21 2013, 05:07 PM)
liqui moly or some other brand? never heard of molybdenum (although liqui moly's MOS2 additive is basically molybdenum)
and if you're having enjoy oil leaks, use any oil should not be an issue. if your engine is not having any leaks at all, using good EO (eg: having higher flashpoint) will prevent engine oil consumption smile.gif

rotor if it isn't too worn, can be skimmed (grinded to flat surface)

repair as they are needed is good, what isn't good is that the workshop is very shady on the pricing/repair works.
as for the clips, i believe most workshops should have it... 20sen-50sen each iinm.
some may not charge for it (or basically include it as labor or other charges)
*
Lol, I missed out the EO brand, it's Eneos. My headlamp still troubling me, the brightness suddenly drops,visibility very poor when driving on road with no lighting. Tried replace with new bulb still same. Measure voltage to ground is around 13.4v,
caesarx
post Oct 21 2013, 10:43 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 21 2013, 07:35 PM)
Eneos shouldn't be bad, could be something else i reckon.

if car is running on alternator, it should be above 14v. 13.4 is a bit worrisome, consider checking on grounding points/adding grounding cables?
*
At battery terminal also get around 13.5V only, with A/C off somemore.
Battery 2 months old. Got erictioh VS and GCx2

QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 21 2013, 08:16 PM)
1) Both lamps or one side only?
2) Is it always dim, or on and off?
*
both sides same brightness, and stay dim.
the current headlamps is non-ori unit replaced during my last accident.
the light cannot focus on the ground, seem projected upwards and scattered, and i was told cannot adjust to shine more on road.
still consider to get ori LMST headlamps for replacement.
caesarx
post Dec 9 2013, 02:08 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 30 2013, 07:49 PM)
Btw what's the black box beside the FICD?
IINM it contains relays for aircond system.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 6 2013, 01:14 AM)
His FC worse than urs still consider normal o? hmm.gif

caesarx
post Dec 9 2013, 02:11 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 9 2013, 02:10 PM)
see my history? got 7.x punya
*
I see the average brows.gif
caesarx
post Dec 9 2013, 02:19 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 9 2013, 02:12 PM)
better by 0.2 only pun sweat.gif
*
Maybe he drive more aggressive than u, i guess hmm.gif

Normally getting above 10km/L for 1300cc engine, not sure for 1500cc

This post has been edited by caesarx: Dec 9 2013, 02:20 PM
caesarx
post Dec 11 2013, 07:16 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(andy@ @ Dec 11 2013, 04:14 PM)
Like you said i go survey and got this reasonably priced RM800 which include new piston ring and conrod bearing.  biggrin.gif
*
Can recommend? Is it around sunway / usj area?
caesarx
post Dec 26 2013, 05:20 PM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


i already replaced 2 of the bulbs with LED, the LED also burnt, TWICE.....
and the lighting with LED is dim compared to original bulb.
caesarx
post Oct 4 2014, 09:40 AM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(streetglow @ Oct 1 2014, 09:11 PM)
thanks for reply
my aircond when stationary not cold,
i wonder if i relocate the fan to outside the condenser n blow it in will my aircond be colder?  hmm.gif
*
Do your check all your fans are working well?
Mine last time is the big fan at the radiator is not spinning at all. when car moving around 40 km/h only spin by the incoming wind.

This post has been edited by caesarx: Oct 4 2014, 09:55 AM
caesarx
post Oct 4 2014, 09:53 AM

On my way
****
Junior Member
542 posts

Joined: Jul 2009


QUOTE(yadea @ Sep 30 2014, 09:51 PM)
Any idea how to reduce the vibrations when air cond is on and car is idle? I rarely on AC unless hot day or feeling hot while driving cuz wanna save fuel and annoying vibrations.
*
I have tried to adjust this before, lets try it tongue.gif tongue.gif

there are 2 screws to adjust.

1st. (with air cond off), adjust the engine turning screw, when u turn in the anti clockwise direction that make your car vibrate,then turn to the oppsite direction until your car is stop vibrating. OK done, check your rpm

2nd. turn on the air cond, your car should be vibrating now, this time turn the aircond tuning screw clockwise direction, until your car stop vibrating, make sure there is no vibration both when aircond kick in and idle.

good luck

user posted image

Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.1205sec    1.03    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 17th December 2025 - 12:28 AM