looks like i have to experiment on hand-painting
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lacquer paint with mr. leveling thinner (with retarder in the mixture)
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4
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Nov 17 2013, 11:39 PM
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Junior Member
900 posts Joined: Oct 2009 |
thanks sifu!
looks like i have to experiment on hand-painting » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « lacquer paint with mr. leveling thinner (with retarder in the mixture) |
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Nov 18 2013, 08:38 AM
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Senior Member
1,133 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: KL |
So master Khai62 you usually use lacquer to be the base coat, and use enamel for washing and panel lines?
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Nov 18 2013, 02:23 PM
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Junior Member
34 posts Joined: Sep 2007 |
QUOTE(gundamsp01 @ Nov 17 2013, 11:25 PM) actually i did follow the same post, minus the filing, the variety of grit and the tamiya cream, as i only have a nipper, hobby knife & a 2000-grit sand paper. As Khai said.currently my result is a smooth surface, with a white outline (not a spot) of the nub. So i think painting is the only way to make it totally unseen, huh? When u see the white outline, means u have already twisted the plastic n it has already become white. there is nothing u can do besides covering it up with paint. To avoid the white thing, honestly I find it quite a challenge. to make sure one or two is perfectly well is ok, but make sure hundred over parts (For MG), one you made mistke, means u r not getting a perfect score. Huhu, I can be an @ss.... P/S: looking at your current arsenal, very hard to achieve. i would recommend u get 600, 800, 1000, n 1500 grit sandpaper, if u want finish it with 2000 grit sand paper.... which i think 2000 grit is a little too smooth. This post has been edited by rayloke: Nov 18 2013, 02:26 PM |
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Nov 18 2013, 06:16 PM
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Junior Member
900 posts Joined: Oct 2009 |
rayloke
thanks for the advice! but isn't 600-grit will deform the surface? i tried to sand lightly(very lightly), still deform the surface slightly. |
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Nov 18 2013, 10:07 PM
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Junior Member
16 posts Joined: Dec 2011 From: Perak |
QUOTE(OhNooy @ Nov 18 2013, 08:38 AM) So master Khai62 you usually use lacquer to be the base coat, and use enamel for washing and panel lines? Pretty much since from where i live when i starting this hobby, only Gaianotes lacquers is readily available and have use it since then. For panel lining, is either enamel wash or if lazy enough just use the standard panel line pen. |
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Nov 21 2013, 04:22 AM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
I've done TAMIYA TOYOTA 86 recently in 2 days and spend not more than RM50 for all the tools and accessories
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Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM
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Senior Member
3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
Guys, may I ask some technique regarding spray?
Let's say I wanna achieve a darker tone of same color. (i.e, red and dark red) For the dark red, can I simply spray a layer of dark grey on it, then spray over the same red to achieve darker red? Thank you in advance! |
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Nov 21 2013, 09:51 PM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM) Guys, may I ask some technique regarding spray? No, that wont work.Let's say I wanna achieve a darker tone of same color. (i.e, red and dark red) For the dark red, can I simply spray a layer of dark grey on it, then spray over the same red to achieve darker red? Thank you in advance! Most of the sprays usually not transparent, so no matter what colour you use for the 1st coat, when it dries and you spray for 2nd coat, all you see will only be the 2nd coat colour, it will cover totally the 1st coat colour.. I dont think there is any way you can achieve what you want by using spray can, so what you can do is to buy that specified colour, or use hand panting n mix the colours. |
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Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM
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Junior Member
249 posts Joined: Jun 2006 |
QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 21 2013, 09:51 PM) No, that wont work. disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. Most of the sprays usually not transparent, so no matter what colour you use for the 1st coat, when it dries and you spray for 2nd coat, all you see will only be the 2nd coat colour, it will cover totally the 1st coat colour.. I dont think there is any way you can achieve what you want by using spray can, so what you can do is to buy that specified colour, or use hand panting n mix the colours. Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red. |
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Nov 21 2013, 10:35 PM
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Senior Member
3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
QUOTE(shauno @ Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM) disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. Thanks man, BTW the reason for my question is this:Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red. ![]() Also thanks blueric94, you got me. (Yes lazy me are planning using spray can |
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Nov 21 2013, 11:58 PM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 21 2013, 10:35 PM) Thanks man, BTW the reason for my question is this: im not sure what king od spray paint you use, what i said was based on normal spray can cost around rm6-7. why dont u that on a piece of plastic n see the result ![]() Also thanks blueric94, you got me. (Yes lazy me are planning using spray can QUOTE(shauno @ Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM) disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. In my opinion(still based on normal spray can, without any aid of professional tools), your 2nd coat will either thick enough to fully cover the 1st coat, or thin enough to let the 1st coat appear partially, but not uniformly, it means the 1st coat is visible with different intensity on different area. I dont think there is any way u can ensure the exactly thickness of the paint when using spray can Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red. |
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Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM
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Senior Member
3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 21 2013, 11:58 PM) im not sure what king od spray paint you use, what i said was based on normal spray can cost around rm6-7. why dont u that on a piece of plastic n see the result I wanna use gundam spray can & tamiya spray can. In my opinion(still based on normal spray can, without any aid of professional tools), your 2nd coat will either thick enough to fully cover the 1st coat, or thin enough to let the 1st coat appear partially, but not uniformly, it means the 1st coat is visible with different intensity on different area. I dont think there is any way u can ensure the exactly thickness of the paint when using spray can |
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Nov 22 2013, 11:51 AM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Sep 2008 |
QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM) if you want to achieve the same effect as the one pic you've shown, you must mix the color. Layering a dark based and second coat of red will be difficult to achieve since you're using a spray can. Difficult to control the paint flow. If you have an airbrush, this would be a breeze.. |
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Nov 22 2013, 11:59 AM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
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Nov 22 2013, 02:25 PM
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Senior Member
3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
QUOTE(Noysan @ Nov 22 2013, 11:51 AM) if you want to achieve the same effect as the one pic you've shown, you must mix the color. Layering a dark based and second coat of red will be difficult to achieve since you're using a spray can. Difficult to control the paint flow. If you have an airbrush, this would be a breeze.. QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 22 2013, 11:59 AM) yea what Noysan said is correct, expect that result only when you have an air brush Thanks for the advice! But air brush expensive and hard to maintain... you better take the proper steps, its totally unworthy if you spoil the appearance of the parts just becz a bit of laziness nvm let me think abt it |
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Nov 23 2013, 12:28 PM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 22 2013, 02:25 PM) Thanks for the advice! But air brush expensive and hard to maintain... Since you are going to do post shading anyway, why dun u just try and see whats the result on a piece of plastic 1st nvm let me think abt it |
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Nov 23 2013, 02:14 PM
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Senior Member
3,494 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Nosgoth |
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Nov 27 2013, 03:24 PM
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Junior Member
167 posts Joined: Oct 2006 |
good day to all members here!
i would like to ask, how to cut a star shape in the center of a 2 inch thick plastic? what tools do i need? This post has been edited by dante3: Nov 27 2013, 03:24 PM |
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Nov 27 2013, 10:20 PM
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Junior Member
109 posts Joined: Jan 2011 |
Hi guys, juz started painting not too long ago.
How is the effect of tamiya acrylic chrome silver? Possible to make it shiny until i can see my own reflection? FYI, im going to paint my HG red frame's katana wif it using my cousin's AB |
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Nov 28 2013, 12:59 AM
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Junior Member
85 posts Joined: Nov 2013 |
QUOTE(rthm93 @ Nov 27 2013, 10:20 PM) Hi guys, juz started painting not too long ago. I suppose hand painting will be hard to achieve what u want. To make it as shiny as mirror, you will need an extremely smooth and flat surface. that means not even one brush stroke or uneven paint should be present. I suggest u use air brush or spray, then it will be easy to make it shiny.How is the effect of tamiya acrylic chrome silver? Possible to make it shiny until i can see my own reflection? FYI, im going to paint my HG red frame's katana wif it using my cousin's AB |
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