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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4

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gundamsp01
post Nov 17 2013, 11:39 PM

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thanks sifu! notworthy.gif
looks like i have to experiment on hand-painting
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lacquer paint with mr. leveling thinner (with retarder in the mixture)
OhNooy
post Nov 18 2013, 08:38 AM

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So master Khai62 you usually use lacquer to be the base coat, and use enamel for washing and panel lines?
rayloke
post Nov 18 2013, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(gundamsp01 @ Nov 17 2013, 11:25 PM)
actually i did follow the same post, minus the filing, the variety of grit and the tamiya cream, as i only have a nipper, hobby knife & a 2000-grit sand paper.

currently my result is a smooth surface, with a white outline (not a spot) of the nub. So i think painting is the only way to make it totally unseen, huh? sweat.gif
*
As Khai said.

When u see the white outline, means u have already twisted the plastic n it has already become white. there is nothing u can do besides covering it up with paint. To avoid the white thing, honestly I find it quite a challenge. to make sure one or two is perfectly well is ok, but make sure hundred over parts (For MG), one you made mistke, means u r not getting a perfect score.

Huhu, I can be an @ss....


P/S: looking at your current arsenal, very hard to achieve. i would recommend u get 600, 800, 1000, n 1500 grit sandpaper, if u want finish it with 2000 grit sand paper.... which i think 2000 grit is a little too smooth.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Nov 18 2013, 02:26 PM
gundamsp01
post Nov 18 2013, 06:16 PM

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rayloke

thanks for the advice! but isn't 600-grit will deform the surface? i tried to sand lightly(very lightly), still deform the surface slightly. sweat.gif
Khai62
post Nov 18 2013, 10:07 PM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ Nov 18 2013, 08:38 AM)
So master Khai62 you usually use lacquer to be the base coat, and use enamel for washing and panel lines?
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Pretty much since from where i live when i starting this hobby, only Gaianotes lacquers is readily available and have use it since then. For panel lining, is either enamel wash or if lazy enough just use the standard panel line pen.
blueric94
post Nov 21 2013, 04:22 AM

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I've done TAMIYA TOYOTA 86 recently in 2 days and spend not more than RM50 for all the tools and accessories rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
Vorador
post Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM

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Guys, may I ask some technique regarding spray?

Let's say I wanna achieve a darker tone of same color. (i.e, red and dark red)

For the dark red, can I simply spray a layer of dark grey on it, then spray over the same red to achieve darker red?

Thank you in advance!
blueric94
post Nov 21 2013, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM)
Guys, may I ask some technique regarding spray?

Let's say I wanna achieve a darker tone of same color. (i.e, red and dark red)

For the dark red, can I simply spray a layer of dark grey on it, then spray over the same red to achieve darker red?

Thank you in advance!
*
No, that wont work.
Most of the sprays usually not transparent, so no matter what colour you use for the 1st coat, when it dries and you spray for 2nd coat, all you see will only be the 2nd coat colour, it will cover totally the 1st coat colour..
I dont think there is any way you can achieve what you want by using spray can, so what you can do is to buy that specified colour, or use hand panting n mix the colours. tongue.gif
shauno
post Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 21 2013, 09:51 PM)
No, that wont work.
Most of the sprays usually not transparent, so no matter what colour you use for the 1st coat, when it dries and you spray for 2nd coat, all you see will only be the 2nd coat colour, it will cover totally the 1st coat colour..
I dont think there is any way you can achieve what you want by using spray can, so what you can do is to buy that specified colour, or use hand panting n mix the colours.  tongue.gif
*
disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. whistling.gif

Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red.
Vorador
post Nov 21 2013, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM)
disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading.  whistling.gif

Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red.
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Thanks man, BTW the reason for my question is this:

brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
user posted image


Also thanks blueric94, you got me. (Yes lazy me are planning using spray can tongue.gif )
blueric94
post Nov 21 2013, 11:58 PM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 21 2013, 10:35 PM)
Thanks man, BTW the reason for my question is this:

brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif
user posted image
Also thanks blueric94, you got me. (Yes lazy me are planning using spray can tongue.gif )
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im not sure what king od spray paint you use, what i said was based on normal spray can cost around rm6-7. why dont u that on a piece of plastic n see the result biggrin.gif

QUOTE(shauno @ Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM)
disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading.  whistling.gif

Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red.
*
In my opinion(still based on normal spray can, without any aid of professional tools), your 2nd coat will either thick enough to fully cover the 1st coat, or thin enough to let the 1st coat appear partially, but not uniformly, it means the 1st coat is visible with different intensity on different area. I dont think there is any way u can ensure the exactly thickness of the paint when using spray can hmm.gif
Vorador
post Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 21 2013, 11:58 PM)
im not sure what king od spray paint you use, what i said was based on normal spray can cost around rm6-7. why dont u that on a piece of plastic n see the result  biggrin.gif
In my opinion(still based on normal spray can, without any aid of professional tools), your 2nd coat will either thick  enough to fully cover the 1st coat, or thin enough to let the 1st coat appear partially, but not uniformly, it means the 1st coat is visible with different intensity on different area. I dont think there is any way u can ensure the exactly thickness  of the paint when using spray can  hmm.gif
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I wanna use gundam spray can & tamiya spray can. hmm.gif
Noysan
post Nov 22 2013, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM)
I wanna use gundam spray can & tamiya spray can.  hmm.gif
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if you want to achieve the same effect as the one pic you've shown, you must mix the color. Layering a dark based and second coat of red will be difficult to achieve since you're using a spray can. Difficult to control the paint flow. If you have an airbrush, this would be a breeze..
blueric94
post Nov 22 2013, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM)
I wanna use gundam spray can & tamiya spray can.  hmm.gif
*
yea what Noysan said is correct, expect that result only when you have an air brush biggrin.gif
you better take the proper steps, its totally unworthy if you spoil the appearance of the parts just becz a bit of laziness tongue.gif
Vorador
post Nov 22 2013, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(Noysan @ Nov 22 2013, 11:51 AM)
if you want to achieve the same effect as the one pic you've shown, you must mix the color. Layering a dark based and second coat of red will be difficult to achieve since you're using a spray can. Difficult to control the paint flow. If you have an airbrush, this would be a breeze..
*
QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 22 2013, 11:59 AM)
yea what Noysan said is correct, expect that result only when you have an air brush  biggrin.gif
you better take the proper steps, its totally unworthy if you spoil the appearance of the parts just becz a bit of laziness  tongue.gif
*
Thanks for the advice! But air brush expensive and hard to maintain... sad.gif

nvm let me think abt it biggrin.gif Consider I will definitely do post shading, so I guess it doesn't matter? hmm.gif
blueric94
post Nov 23 2013, 12:28 PM

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QUOTE(Vorador @ Nov 22 2013, 02:25 PM)
Thanks for the advice! But air brush expensive and hard to maintain... sad.gif

nvm let me think abt it biggrin.gif  Consider I will definitely do post shading, so I guess it doesn't matter?  hmm.gif
*
Since you are going to do post shading anyway, why dun u just try and see whats the result on a piece of plastic 1st biggrin.gif
Vorador
post Nov 23 2013, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 23 2013, 12:28 PM)
Since you are going to do post shading anyway, why dun u just try and see whats the result on a piece of plastic 1st biggrin.gif
*
absolutely! thumbup.gif

I got a box of scrap component (a spoilt BB gundam) will try on that one first~
dante3
post Nov 27 2013, 03:24 PM

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good day to all members here! smile.gif
i would like to ask, how to cut a star shape in the center of a 2 inch thick plastic?

what tools do i need? smile.gif

This post has been edited by dante3: Nov 27 2013, 03:24 PM
rthm93
post Nov 27 2013, 10:20 PM

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Hi guys, juz started painting not too long ago.
How is the effect of tamiya acrylic chrome silver?
Possible to make it shiny until i can see my own reflection?

FYI, im going to paint my HG red frame's katana wif it using my cousin's AB
blueric94
post Nov 28 2013, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(rthm93 @ Nov 27 2013, 10:20 PM)
Hi guys, juz started painting not too long ago.
How is the effect of tamiya acrylic chrome silver?
Possible to make it shiny until i can see my own reflection?

FYI, im going to paint my HG red frame's katana wif it using my cousin's AB
*
I suppose hand painting will be hard to achieve what u want. To make it as shiny as mirror, you will need an extremely smooth and flat surface. that means not even one brush stroke or uneven paint should be present. I suggest u use air brush or spray, then it will be easy to make it shiny.

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