I see, thanks for the info. Then i'll just stick with enamel + zippo.

ok, but even if i less touching it, it still will occur ?
and can i know how to have a nice smooth painting result ? i need to rub the parts with sandpaper and have few layers of painting instead of one layer ?

Touching is fine but it when you start to pose where the problem arise. But i have to ask this first, what kind of method of painting you use, handbrush, spray can or airbrush ?

Hi, sorry if this qn has been asked before but we're can I find bosny flat black and white acrylic spray paint? I'm going to prime my warhammer 40k models with it but I can't find flat black. I stay in kl and art friend at gardens mod valley only has flat white. I'm thinking of an automotive shop but I don't know anywhere around bangsar that has it. Do they sell it at hardware shops? Ace hardware at Mid Valley doesn't stock flat black or white. =(

sorry to ask, are you answering my question ?
if yes, why it will be problem with posing ?
handbrush, and this is my first time to do handbrush

Yes, I say posing will be a problem because there are a chance that each parts rub to each other and therefore paint chipping will occur. As for handbrush painting, just make sure you do the painting in one direction to get a smooth painting surface.

i see... ok, thanks
is it i need to mix the paint with thinner(more amount) and paint few layer or less amount with just one layer of paint ? which one is better ?

hye guys,
newbie here...
would like to ask on how to remove the paint from the plastic effectively?
thanks

dip a very soft cloth into diluted thinner (or directly if you using model kit-specific thinner) then gently wipe the model's surface.

Thank you sir,
the material were build from magnesium,
and the stock coat were too thick,
is it possible to remove the paint by using diluted thinner?

As long as you're using the common model kit paint then YES.

However, please be very patient for the process, NEVER EVER go shortcut by dip the whole component into a bowl of thinner. Some forumer share their painful experience before that entire component "almost" dissolved...

Actually among acrylic, enamel and lacquer paint, which are the most suitable for gunpla? Especially when some of the parts are made of ABS.

few layer is much better since do it on one layer usually is very thick which will be harder to smooth out the surface later.

It either acrylic or lacquer paint.

Acrylic:
- Can be thinned with water
- Don't give out hazardous smell
- Really prone to chippings (Need to topcoat)
- Easier to handbrush as well since it have slow dry time

Lacquer
- Very resistant
- Give out hazardous smell
- Mainly for airbrush
- Very quick drying time

I know about ABS become brittle when painted with lacquer issue but so far i haven't have got those problem before.

So enamel are not really recommended in this case?

You can use enamel to paint the whole kit but many people use other type of paint because they use enamel for panel lining or a reverse wash which usually don't harm the base paint of either acrylic or lacquer but be warn that enamel thinner is quite strong and if use too many of it, it can strip out the paint or make it brittle.

Ahhh so this is why you suggested acrylic or lacquer. I've tried acrylic to hand paint my SD RX-78-2, but I was thinking if it is nice for airbrush or not. Thanks sifu!

Hi all sifu here,

i have a question to ask regarding some beginner's technique for gunpla-ing.

i tried several methods to remove the nubs of the parts, all of which are learnt from internet / forum tutorial.

all parts are removed with a small gate connected.
1) hobby knife with sand paper. i sliced the gate with hobby knife bit by bit, then when it is flat i lightly sanded it with 2000-grit sand paper.

2) sand paper only. sand it with a lower grit sand paper till it is flat to the surface, then finished with 2000-grit sand paper.

method 1 still leave a visible mark of white outline of the gate.
method 2 deforms the surface of the parts while the white outline is less likely to be noticed.

i wonder what is wrong, i can't achieve the same result as what was taught online. Can anyone give me some guidance on this? could it be my hobby knife not sharp enough? or the slice is not thin enough?

as i dont think i will try method 2 again since it deforms the surface of the plastic.

Try this method:
http://www.pla-zone.com/thread/287/nip-mark-removal-snapfit

But personally i don't really bother to go extra effort most of the time on removing nub marks since in the end of the day you only see it when up close.

This post has been edited by Khai62: Nov 17 2013, 11:14 PM

actually i did follow the same post, minus the filing, the variety of grit and the tamiya cream, as i only have a nipper, hobby knife & a 2000-grit sand paper.

currently my result is a smooth surface, with a white outline (not a spot) of the nub. So i think painting is the only way to make it totally unseen, huh?

Without a doubt yes.