just got my hand on autoglym hd car wax last weekend during my visit to australia. much cheaper compare to the selling price here. satisfied with the gloss and shine of my car.

now i want to get a clay bar to clay my car once in a while. this one quite good and review also not bad from autogeek.

http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolcla.html

can be found in ace hardware shop. but not sure about local pricing.

just came across this guide and think it is quite informative

http://guidetodetailing.com/how-to-repair-...deep-scratches/

If you're leaving residues in grooves, it could mean that you're using too much wax and applying not thinly enough. Try using much less, especially around grooves. To remove wax residues, you can use cotton buds with shampoo or APC.

I think its fake 3M.. if you want I can send an unused sample to you

P.S. I'm based in kota kemuning/shah alam (batu 3)

As arj...cotton bud with apc or whatever cleaner if difficult to reach. If can reach then rubber eraser...

Not that far from me....I'm working in Sek9. Used or unused also can...just need to get the feel of it's texture with different liquids....don't dare to try it on paint la....

A local online seller of Mothers products is selling the same package for RM150.

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-Califo...others+clay+bar


Amazon gives free shipping to Singapore if you buy US$125 worth of products.

If you got friend in Singapore can bring in for you for free

Guys, I get my ultimate liquid wax , actually after apply it, need to let it dry , wait a few minutes only wipe it off?


Any tips on applying wax? I do clay first b4 wax

1. You wash your car thoroughly....

2. Then you clay thoroughly...

3. And you suppose to do a wipe down thoroughly using IPA...

4. Then only you apply the wax.

But most people skip step #3, that's what I noticed. But if you want your wax to last, do all.

Maybe these basic steps can be pinned in 1st thread.

Apply very sparringly (thinly), let it dry then only wipe/buff off. How long to let it dry would depend on the temperature & humidity at the time.

Tips to know whether it's time to wipe/buff off:
After application, swipe with your finger. If the residue come off cleanly (no 'oily' streaks underneath - like wiping off dust/powder off) then it's ready to be wipe/buff off.

bolded part is the step i forgot to do last week as it was my first time waxing my car. end up my front hood got some oily finish. not apparent but it prevent the perfect look i was looking for.

so, this weekend i want to clay the wax out and reapply the wax. claying do remove wax right?

No need. The streaks should disappear after a good wash. They're just layers not properly cured at the time of application. But, just in case, if they're still there after a wash, just re-wax la...no need to clay/remove it.

Yup , i think that day u send me the full detailing car in PM should pin on the first pages , so newbie won't keep on repeating same question hehe


Actually i plan to do on this coming weekend by HAND


1. Wash Car

2. Clay whole car with Ultimate Quick Detailer

3. Ultimate Compound on scratch place only (the proper way to use Ultimate compound is , apply it thru small part area is better to take care , do not leave the Ultimate compound until dry , quickly wipe it off)

4. Ultimate Polish to polish compound area and other area (I actually not sure how to proper polishing , is that same way as WAX let it dry off? or same as Ultimate Compound do not let it dry and wipe it off immediately?)

5. i will skip the wipe down step and direct apply Wax (Proper way to wax is , After application, swipe with your finger. If the residue come off cleanly (no 'oily' streaks underneath - like wiping off dust/powder off) then it's ready to be wipe/buff off Credit to KrisMas)


So is that my step is done correctly?


A question here , if leave the wax too long on surface will make any damage or side effect?

actually, KrisMas supposed to do a writeup/guide on first page

Do lot leave the UC or UP to dry. Wipe off immediately after you've finished each passes of compounding/polishing.

By itself, no harm in leaving the wax for too long without wiping/buffing off. Like I said, if done properly, they're just access wax/sealant/carrier in the form of very fine powdery residue that are not bonded to the paint. Unless, you've applied it too thick, then it would be a little bit harder to wipe/buff off. When I was using Megs NXT/Megs Synthetic Sealants/Zaino/Duragloss/etc, sometime I would just leave it on for hours before wiping...no issues. I know of this one very prominant detailer who even left the sealant he applied (SmartWax) overnight before wiping.

The only risk would be if you're living around dusty area. Leave it for too long, particle of dust *might* settle on the surface and this *could* be picked up by the cloth you're using for wiping/biffing - swirls/scratches when wiping/buffing off.

Awww...maaannn. You had to remind me don't you.....

tak pe la, you can do it on v3

So Ultimate Compound can be reapply if we found the scratch stil havent reappear ? I heard that it's max re-apply twice only , dont use too much as it will damage to the paint , is that true?

First of all, you'd need to understand what 'removing scratches' mean.

Technically, you're not removing the scratch. You're actually removing the clear coat so that the clear coat surrounding the scratch is level with the bottom of the scratch. Something like when you have scratches on wood/timber. You'd need to sand of the surrounding area so that it is level with the scratches. So scratches are actually shallow cut or cleat coat that's been scraped off. In order to 'remove' it, you need to scrape off more clear coat around it so that it's level with the bottom of the scratch.

How many time can you safely remove the scratches without damaging the clear coat would depends on how deep the scratch or cut that went INTO the clear coat. The more you 'remove' the scratches, the more clear coat you are removing and the thinner it would become until, to a point, you'd be removing the clear coat altogether and exposed the color coat underneath it. This is what we call a 'strike through' whereby the color coat is now exposed to the harsh weather without the clear coat protecting it from harm. Without the clear coat, the color coat stands no chance against our harsh weather before also getting damaged. A rough guide would be, if you can catch the scratch with your fingernail, the scratch is already dangerously deep to be safely 'removed' without risking a strike through.
(Move the tip of your fingernail AGAINST (not ALONG) the scratch and when your nail hit the scracth, see whether you can feel the scratch 'catching' your nail).

So, if the scratch is not too deep (doesn't catch your nail), you can use UC as many times as you like until you're satisfied with the result. But if the scratch is too deep (catches your nail), my suggestion would be just to remove enough clear coat so as to make the scratch less visible or let the pro have a look at it first before attempting to totally remove it.

Regards.

Then if compound removed the clear coat, the polishing and wax cant help to protect the surface?

Just now I try the scratch with my fingernail, can feel a little of deep but not that deep actually, but I would like to try it first hehe