Introduction of Proton Saga / Iswara

The Proton Saga is the first car produced by Malaysian auto manufacturer Proton, based on the 1983 Mitsubishi Lancer Fiore. It first debuted in September 1985. The first Proton Saga that rolled off the production line was presented to the Malaysian National Museum as a symbol of the beginning of the Malaysian automotive industry.

Since then, the Proton Saga and its variants contributed to most of Proton's sales and revenues. The Saga variants are also popular among Malaysian taxi drivers and operators who need cheap vehicles with good fuel economy. The Saga is currently the longest surviving brand in a line of cars offered by Proton.

Saga / Iswara Owners List

1. kahheng (29/09)
2. chowdm
3. singchaii (16/09)
4. apache_utara
5. the_catacombs (15/09)
6. feralee
7. blackpc
8. domo_kun
9. bukanmain
10. ~Battousai~
11. ceo684
12. edtan5
13. Tainted
14. Xefron
15. RoxyMunky
16. keith121284
17. mengfui
18. hamiru
19. KeV
20. batista_beast (retired member. Now a BMW enthusiast)
21. kudepadi
22. eXpert
23. dcarbon AKA (yongfei)
24. bullet
25. lov3too4ll
26. daktzuk
27. elaineliew88
28. UnCleHenG
29. kevinlim001
30. airpool2407
31. jabelix
32. zhixin
33. CerealKiller
34. sonic_darkknight
35. leinnz
36. nightzstar
37. bjay1482
38. HughieRmX
39. popopi
40. xacrifizer
41. sonicscourge
42. kenzo
43. bryanhkc84
44. icyd
45. mickeywjy
46. andychan (31/8)
47. ronaldet
48. Gilbert5107(13/9)
49. stanum
50. jenniferyoke(19/10)
51. -pWs-
52. tysern
53. joekang86
54. dopeisgood
55. neosaint99
56. wkho555 get car on 11/10/07
57. flyingteeku
58. darude87
59. quick_shaq
60. stupidbump
61. carcraze66
62. how to save a life
63. kakashixws
64. XG.
65. chicaman
66. yewwing
67. neshh
68. virginslayer
69. ThanatosSwiftfire
70. kabyss87
71. firdz
72. ahseng84
73. englandcaptain
74. Anthony87
75. PureGeek
76. allenyip
77. PinkyWhite wub.gif
78. IcEMoCHa
79. felix5152001
80. shiinkuro31
81. lwc1989
82. Calvin
83. mE_duNNo
84. Halia_Merah
85. godspeeds
86. long_con
87. Nskyline
88. heavencloud
89. lkylyk
90. evoluzzion
91. Shawnzz
92. alexwsk
93. Maksimum
94. samosa
95. faidzal1982
96. Hikaru Kenshin
97. lennon_87
98. reuben_1991
99. aichiban
100. ibnuasad
101. juniorkirk
102. aidil_fahmi
103. rozz_1291 (current TS)
104. JJTam
105. ravemaster222003
106. eggtart
107. yOuNg$tEr
108. zyde
109. x_suncai
110. HoobastanK(2)
111. ronzai89
112. lengchai86
113. nap2617 aka Rudy
114. ~alternate fearless~ A.K.A HighRevSAGA/GMS
115. Arcsaber
116. UranusFoo
117. riduanteo
118. id86
119. Black Panther
120. napoli26
121. dakwan5555
122. mls_ gamer
123. johannemiir
124. Zack Styler
125. joshgm_119
126. shawns
127. TWLOH
128. Irenicus_extr
129. kellefe
130. touge_ke70
131. hamster9
132. cyclone61
133. 91jude
134. macho_siot
135. beastiex
136. Yashiro
137. Reizz
138. bobfuzie
139. Strawberry<3
140. evolution120
141. chris3k6
142. mchlkeys
143. taitianhin
144. Shafique
145. newaythem3
146. zax1116
147. Notoriez
148. jezztanjl
149. mizi28
150. layeong
151. Cyril
152. Alex_tan168
153. jackchong890
154. StarburstMz
155. Ah Hei
156. Chan320
157. Babyiswara
158. sinister_sid
159. stasis21
160. GTL
161. nookie7
162. wct
163. unxeen888
164. omgkenny
165. n3w
166. fleekreturn
167. Peekab0o
168. heavenly91
169. ILikePie
170. edwin1234
171. Quazacolt
172. Lowenkreuz
173. cyanboy

Do PM me if ur name is not listed!

Page no.2



Tyre & Rim Info
1) PCD
-> stands for pitch circle diameter, numbers of bolts on the wheel
-> got a few PCD types: 100 (eg: wira, honda), 114.3 (eg: saga iswara, satria neo), 110 (kancil), etc.


2) Offset
-> distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part
-> normally can be adjusted using spacer


3) Spacer
-> a round piece of metal that has holes on it, the function is to avoid/adjust the wheel from rubbing the arch/fender
-> got few sizes/thickness
-> if u r using 8 holes rim sure need to add spacer on the front

4) 14" or 15"
-> i prefer 15" bcoz 14" less choices for performance tires tongue.gif

5) Best PCD and offset
-> 114.3 and 38-40 (need check with sifoo..)


Credit goes to: Killer
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum Rules n Regulations
Following rules are being implemented to prevent any unhappiness arise during discussion.

Rule 1:
This is not a trading thread. Any trading activities must be done in discreet. Use PM la!

Rule 2:
This is not a place for u to show off. Respect all saga/iswara driver if u doesn't own a saga/iswara but u wish to join our thread please respect all others member. Do not make statement like "This car doesn't deserve any modification". If u don't like us don't join our discussion. We also not welcome u to make any statement to show off here.

Rule 3:
All other LYN rules applied in this Forum too.

These rules and regulations has to be followed by existing and new members. Any unsatisfaction and comment pls PM me and allow me to discuss with all senior members before the rule is being change or new rule being implement.

Extra information on warranty issues:

Warranty FAQs
1. What makes the warranty contract null and void?
For details, please refer to your PROTON Service Booklet under Section 4 of Warranty and Limitation of Liability. However, PROTON reserves the right of final decision on all warranty claims.

2. What is covered by the warranty?

Subject to terms and conditions, PERUSAHAAN OTOMOBIL NASIONAL BERHAD (referred as PROTON) warrants that any items of the "Basic Warranty and Specific Warranty" of the new vehicle manufactured by and for PROTON shall be free from any defects in materials and workmanship of these warranty covered by new vehicle limited warranty will be repaired or replaced free of charge by any PROTON's authorised distributors or dealers.

Basic Warranty items

The basic warranty items that are any items of the new PROTON vehicle (except the Specific items and the Special transacted items*) are warranted to 24 months or 50,000 kms, whichever comes first.

Specific Warranty items

The specific warranty items listed below are warranted to 12 months or 20,000 kms, whichever comes first.

*
Battery (for Diesel - 6 months)
*
Exhaust
*
Injection nozzle for diesel powered vehicle
*
Glow plug for diesel powered vehicle

Special Transacted items*

The concerned manufacturer for Clarion radio cassette and speakers warrant the special transacted items.

3. What are the other types of warranty offered by EON?
Parts Warranty is given to all parts purchased at EON service network for 6 months or 10,000 kms, whichever comes first.

Rust Proofing Warranty is given to all PROTON vehicles, which are treated with anti-rust spray for 6 years from registration date.
4. Can I use my own lubricant/engine oil at EON Service Centre?
Yes. EON will not be responsible for any problem arising from the usage of other brands other than our recommended lubricant/engine oil.

5. Is it important to use genuine parts?

Yes, it is important that you use PROTON genuine parts and accessories.

This will ensure that the original vehicle specifications are maintained and that the replacement parts meet the same high standards as the vehicle original equipments. This will also ensure the vehicle compliance to the government regulations relating to vehicle safety and environmental controls. The use of parts that do not conform to the correct specification may cause damage to the vehicle and could also invalidate the terms of the warranty.

credit goes to Kevin

USUAL PERFORMANCE UPGRADE FOR SAGA/ISWARA

Intake
1. High Flow Open Pod (from rm50 onwards) or Drop In Air Filters (only K&N available, rm215)
2. Due to the bad placing of the stock air intake resulting in hot air being sucked, it is recommended to add a Cold Air Intake. Various types of hose available for this DIY upgrade. Position the intake in front of the radiator, and you will definitely gain valuable power and better the fuel consumption!

Exhaust
4-2-1 Tuned Length Extractor (from rm400 onwards) for high exhaust flow with minimal restriction & power increase. Use cap ayam brand and you will end up with power loss instead.

Ignition
1. Performance spark plug cable (from rm50 onwards). Recommended brands are the like of RAM and Pro Rallye. They say thick cables produce bigger spark which results in better combustion=more power=better fuel consumption. Some reported radio interference. However most enthusiast remain skeptic and stuck with the stock plug cable. So you decide.
2. Side gapped spark plug. This is a cheap performance upgrade. Your standard spark plug's electrode is shaved away to provide a bigger 'open' spark. It is also recommended to 'index' the spark plug so that when it's plugged in, the spark area will directly face the combustion chamber. Downside is, the plug will not last as long. Again, most enthusiast remain skeptic. http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/...idegapping.html

Engine
1. Port & Polish Engine Head (from rm400~rm1500). Smoothen the rough internals for better air/exhaust flow & power increase.
2. High Performance Camshafts (from rm600~rm1500). Modified camshafts profile can ensure more air-fuel mixture to reach the cylinder at the correct timing resulting in horsepower & torque increase.
3. Lightened Crank Pulley (from rm200~rm650). Release loss horsepower due to heavy stock crank pulley. Better acceleration and fuel consumption. Revs drop faster though. Enthusiasts are still arguing about rubber dampened or non-dampened crank pulley. Again, you decide.

Handling
1. Suspension (from rm500~RM2000). Depending on your budget and liking, you can opt for sports short stroke absorber coupled with sports spring or go for semi-adjustable absorbers. Be aware that this upgrade will cause uncomfortable ride. Brands like APM Performax cost about rm500 while adjustables from GAB or Improve will set you back about rm1500.
2. Chassis Stiffening Bars (from rm150 onwards). Front stabiliser bar, fender bars, lower arm bar, rear strut bar, etc will help the car reduce its flex during heavy corners and help the suspension keep the tires planted to the tarmac. The more bar installed, the more solid the ride. Not to mention they will add to the weight as well.

Brakes
1. Double Layer Brake Servo (from rm100 onwards) - This half cut item is popular among enthusiasts. A great help to improve stopping power. However idling will be a bit rough. Sourced from VR4, Pajero or Honda SM4.
2. High-Temp Brake Pads (from rm120 onwards) - Higher temperature handling will avoid the risk of fading brakes during aggressive or mountain driving. At the moment, Rapid Stop pads is the way to go.


This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Aug 26 2012, 01:00 AM

peeps, anyone of u done sound proofing on iswara? any recommendation?

no wo... huhu.. i guess quazacolt got do..not sure , need wait his reply..

have u all change timing belt before? i go change, at proton dealer, they said rm470. do i get cheat? so expensive one?

i have dynamat on 4 doors, foamed side sills, undercarriage and A pillars, soundproofed boot area and front tyre fenders..

outside noise is reduced, but wind noise + internal creaking here and there becomes more obvious.. huhu..

Yooh peekaboo sifu upgraded to TS huh ?? Must support then

---

Added on August 26, 2012, 2:39 pmtry search stickymat in garage , he got a stuff for sondproof + windnoise reduse called P-rubber , damn effective man !!

This post has been edited by mgs89: Aug 26 2012, 02:39 PM

my hood cold start that time rpm less than 500 causing the hood to vibrate, very noisy, thats y need to find something to stick in between the hood and the chassis. so which 1 u guys recommend? P rubber or D rubber?

Hi, can i ask what is PCD ? i search with google and i get ***** Cat Dolls

This post has been edited by evolution120: Aug 26 2012, 06:56 PM

dats super expensiv la...go normal shop ok d..

i see... thanks thanks..

hmm where you staying? hotel? alone or with family (or friends?) ? lol

atm kinda hard la as car still now fixed
money is also another thing, and need to change tires during the track (unless anyone got those easy car jacks? (long long punya lol, and maybe air gun/drill thingy LOL) as semi slicks are banned, open track can use la i heard lol

eitherway, still boils down to additional expenses

@lowyat, quazacolt

u guys joining the 4g1series time attack?

Wow this thread is still going strong.
Btw would like to share the prices of certain parts.

Original wiper from Proton RM32
OEM Air Filter RM16-RM17
OEM Oil Filter below RM10
OEM Fuel Filter RM10
Recond Distributor RM200
Proton Distributor RM500++
Fuel Pump below RM160
OEM Spark Plug below RM20
OEM Plug Cable RM100
Signal light L/R RM32
Tire RM470 Dunlop R14. (4 biji)
Allignment and Balancing RM30
Power Window Motor RM100
Brake Pad RM20 (I think forgot liao)

This is what I have changed so far with my mechanic.
FUuuuuuu
But compared with continental car it is cheap right? o.O

This post has been edited by heavenly91: Aug 26 2012, 08:39 PM

whats your reason for sound proofing though? and yes ive done it as low yat 82 mentioned, both front doors and engine hood

---

Added on August 26, 2012, 9:40 pmi recommend you to fix the original problem instead

---

Added on August 26, 2012, 9:42 pmhavent decided, lowyat82 is going i believe.

lacking money, car havent fixed. and thinking of putting ARB/sport springs etc before going to prevent round 2 of sampan, as this time semi slick banned, scare my car over turn or something weih lol

and this means, a lot of extra expenses again :/

---

Added on August 26, 2012, 9:50 pmweird, ur air filter macam more expensive, but your oil filter damn cheap, sure didnt terbalik? LOL

also, bosch plug cable rm50 je la, LYN folks selling, those are damn good and more than enough already for our car
(drex/howie also on general consensus XD)

the rest, just about right la, in fact you gotten some really good pricing too

for distributor, to save headaches, i personally recommend sticking with proton original despite the much more expensive price. recond ones tend to stall/die off, or even incorrect idling or rough engine performance. too much headaches for my preference to be honest. and at the end of the day, what you pay is what you get

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 26 2012, 09:50 PM

Yo iswara driver here too, year 1997 1.3 aeroback

well, im not really sound proofing, but the materials im getting are for sound proofing purpose, so asking around only..

just changed my mounting about a year ago, when engine is warmed up, free gear is 1k to 1.2k rpm and D gear is about 800rpm.. but sadly, the front mounting already kong due to always engage D during traffic light, jam, etc.. but that doesnt bother me much.

so my intention is to get 1 or 2 meter of the sound proofing rubber between the hood and the chassis, so it doesnt give any sound..

but iirc, auto iswara, 3speeder, guess u have to engage 2nd gear to get good speeds, wouldnt that hurt ur engine and gb?

Shit..
My plug cable I got rip-off?
The fella get for me Proton d.

I also feel weird how come plug cable so expensive d.
Bunch of @ssholes mechanics.
But no choice
They also got to earn

Selling the following parts for Iswara only.

Iswara Bosch Front Headlamp-rm165(per side)
Iswara Bosch Signal lamp- rm50 per side
Iswara Taillamp Sedan Original Proton-rm200(per side)
Iswara Side Mirror-rm25 per side( local, manual type)
Top set gasket-rm215 Original Proton( many fakes out there, wont last)
Iswara Alternator Bosch rm170. 1 year warranty by Bosch
Iswara distributor original rm405. use taiwan one few months will spoil.
Iswara digital clock original proton rm70
Bosch Timing Belt kit set-rm60
Dayco Timing belt kit set-rm95
Iswara water pump. Original Proton rm55
Iswara engine mounting front-rm36, rear-rm 48, right-rm188 (made in japan), left-rm238(made in japan)
Pro-Rallye Plug Cable 10mm Made in USA-rm170
Bosch Sports Plug Cable 8mm-rm45
Iswara Original Proton clutch cable-rm30
Iswara Original Proton clutch kit set rm155
Iswara Original Exedy CLutch kit set made in Japan with skf bearing rm190.
Iswara Kayaba absorbers-front rm72, rear rm43 Original. many fakes out there
Iswara rear brake pump Bosch brand rm25 per side
Iswara lower arm-rm45 each(local)
Bosch Power Plus front brake pads-rm35
Brake shoe Cycar rm25
Bosch W8DC spark plugs-rm15(normal one)
Bosch Super4 spark plugs-rm42
Bosch wiperblades rm20
Bardahl 5w-40fully synthetic engine oil SM rm85, Bardahl 10w-40, semi-synthetic rm65,
Bosch oil filter rm8, Original Proton oil filter rm8
Bosch air filter rm9, local OSAKA air filter rm6
Fuel filter local rm5
Proton ATF oil rm22 per litre
Osram H4 bulbs rm10 each.

I got this from http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/717315/all




Hey TS can you put this list up?
This can help Iswara users from kena con

This post has been edited by heavenly91: Aug 26 2012, 10:36 PM

I bought the original Proton Bougicord spark plug cables for RM60 only

dulan
arghhhh
but I duno which workshop to go adi..
I just feel that all workshop also makan duit.
Celaka betul.
So angry

Do a bit survey... find nearest spare part shop and make friends with them. Try and buy from them consistently and see if you can get better pricing from them. If you get it from mechanic you can't expect them to sell you for the same price, they need to pay for storage/parts/transport as well.

Some of the things can be fixed DIY. Changing plug cables/distributor cap/rotor arm is so simple so that's something you can do to save a bit of $$ and also have some satisfaction of DIY maintaining your car

oops.. new thread is here..
i just posted in v25.. ><

Learned expensive lesson.
Nvr trust workshop so much.

if you fixed your rough idling, wouldn't that void the need for sound proofing? think about it.

also, even on rough idling, usually the hood would not vibrate that much, if any at all. perhaps there is free play? engine mounting issue? you claim that it doesn't bother you much... but you're seeking for sound proofing because of engine hood vibration, contradiction?

i just red line rev it to pass 1/2 gear and just sit in 3 gear lol. as for engine/gear box damage, maybe not? since i use good engine oil (either torco or liqui moly semi syn). gear box... well i am using almost rm300 per oil change worth of oil and additive. (Q8 semi syn and lubegard platinum lol)

---

Added on August 27, 2012, 1:25 amthere is obviously not the case as not everyone also kena makan duit, right?

there are honest workshops out there, just got to find them

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 27 2012, 01:25 AM

yeah i know, my foreman did a few tuned of the rpm thingy b4, but that doesnt last long, some time later, it came back.. so instead of going back to tuning the rpm thingy again, so just get something to stick in between so that the sound doesnt come out. just let it vibrate, as long the sound doesnt pop up again, im totally good with it.

wow, u can really spend big bucks on ur service each time.. im just just using some average mobil engine oil and atf though. but isnt it even if u use good lubes, ur exhaust system arent upgraded, will cause engine oil to drain away?

the carb idling tuning is obviously not the root cause then, you need to fix the root cause which is causing all this problem (require to fix idling, require to sound proof)

considered de-carbon your carburetor? when is the last time you replaced spark plugs? are there any fouling/premature worn on your spark plugs? what about spark plug cable? is your car grounding ok? (bad circuitry = shitty spark/misfiring = rough idling)

gear box oil only every 20k km or so change, and i am considering extending it to maybe 30k km. gearbox always smooth, oil drained out damn clear/clean and no signs of degradation, a bit wasting to change at 20k km for such good quality oil/additives lol.

and no, engine oil draining are caused by oil seal/piston rings etc leaking. nothing to do with good lube or exhaust system aren't upgraded. in fact, exhaust system has little to nothing to do with engine oil lol.

that said, my exhaust system is completely replaced with cap ayam upgrade though

no idea which part of the engine bay went faulty, but i think it cost much more than buying a couple of metre to do some simple absorption though.

2 years ago done corbon cleaning using threebond from thundergod_cid, not much of white smoke came out. felt wasted.. even thundergod_cid himself said my engine still in pristine condition.

replaced all 4 spark plugs when doing top overhaul about 1/2 year ago, so i think shouldnt be spark plugs. not sure about spark plug cable though, but definitely is stock black cable.

bought a set of vs + thick grounding cable from ericteoh too.. so i guess grounding should be fine too.

thats weird, there was a time that after i done my top OH, my engine oil was at the peak level, done is crazy max speed sprint @ plus highway from sepang to kl for a couple of times, surprisingly my engine oil gone down to 1/2 level. shocked me, and since then i never speed more than 140kmh. now even worse, my GB started to have oil stain and my parking lot floor has some oil stain and i suspect is GB oil.

based on my knowledge which i obtained from my friend, he said if always do high rev, if your exhaust system is not modded for bigger flow, the pressure created due to high rpm will cause the engine to suck up the engine oil. not sure he was crapping around or fact.

eh 2 years ago? prior to that trip to de-carbon, have you done it before? or did previous owner (not sure if you owned the car since the beginning) did it? because i decarbon my car around every 20k km, and that always exhaust a decent amount of white smoke lol. though since i am a "frequent" decarboner, only need to use around half bottle as the engine/carb isnt really that dirty
takes about 1-2 months for 5k km, so between 4-8 months for 20k km in estimation?

also, those 4 spark plugs are stock/cheapo NGK? (as in rm30-40+ or so for a pack of 4) or fancy platinum/iridiums? because if using those cheapo ones, i just change every 5k or 10k km if they are still in good conditions upon inspection lol. maybe try inspecting it?

have you tried taking out your stock cable and inspect if there are any damage/corrosion on the cable contacts/tips? or even damage to the housing/cable exteriors?

at least we got groundings out of the way (i also recently just bought a set of VS + grounding from ericteoh )

when you inspect your engine oil, is it right after you speed? because the oil will take time to settle down back into the oil sump. best to do oil inspection is the next day in the morning to get a more accurate reading (also make sure your car is not on a slope too lol, iinm tilt to front = more while tilt to back = less?)
btw, i just did a ~165-167 max speed sprint from lcct to subang yesterday (lol figure got detained by customs. rm70 tax ) and no engine oil loss, lol.

my GB also have minor oil stains, prolly due to the gb oil sump dmg? (could be just the contacts/gasket unable to seal properly) however i inspect the gb oil levels, everytime also adequate as if never leak. i may not have the experience to inspect, however i let my mechanic to do it, also same results (they will have 1 more guy in the car to engage gear while the guy in front inspect the oil levels)
and furthermore the ground never have any oil stains... so yeah ill just leave it as it is until the next gearbox oil change, then maybe replace the GB oil sump and gasket/gb oil filter all at the same time (got a long way to go on this )

as for your friend, personally i think he is crapping. other sifu do comment/correct me if im wrong

add me to list
iswara year y2k

m goin wit wife... hotel duno oo...i ask d organiser help me settle room..goin on saturday..if u goin on sunday, u can convoy wit d rest..can try PM peekaboo.

aiya...go there sure alot bring car jack.. i can personally help u as well. no big deal..lol

yup.. time attack. better also coz no chance hit wit other car...lol

compare wit continental car sure is cheap la..lol..

distributor proton is good but kinda expensiv.. i'll resolve to half cut..lol..depends on luck also..china distributor dun waste money..totally cannot trust..

eh,join along lo..lol.. well, sport spring is enough d lo.. ARB u can pasang also but dat day didnt saw ur car oversteer/rear buang. so,guess dats not d main weakness.
welcome

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Added on August 27, 2012, 9:02 am@megadisc
PM peekaboo to add name better..

This post has been edited by low yat 82: Aug 27 2012, 09:02 AM

the place organizer settled is a hotel or their own room/housing? plan to go saturday too, can sleep/rest easy 1 night after long distance driving XD

anyone may want to convoy/tumpang room?
http://www.hangouthotels.com/malacca/index...g&id=4&Itemid=4
i love hangout at sg, hopefully melaka is the same if not better.
RM73.5/night/person

free breakfast, and you can leave your stuff at their locker/facilities after checkout in the morning and go track, after track come back collect luggage.

as for car jack, i also got la. but the turning mechanism thing just to jack the car, makes me pening more than i unscrew the nuts on the wheels lol
if you/they got the big one that's much easier, where you use a long handle stick and just whack it up/down while standing, ok la lol

my when my distributor kong'd, i replaced with recond initially, gave me too much headache, "tuning" after "tuning", until i just fed up, pay up for original proton, and everything kaotim.

maybe i just bad luck la, but hey, money works, so that's the end of the story lol

and no oversteer/buang cuz i brake damn hard ma, somemore cheating with semi slick tires, damn thing sticky as hell even during rain (it still aquaplanes like mad when hitting puddles )

i still managed to buang it during open track la, but that's cuz i wanna try to drift
but rofl drum rear and our FWD car, aih forget it la

that said, everyone claimed my car was sampan and at some points tripod weih, so i dunno la. from the inside i memang can't feel anything and quite sure the wheels were stuck on the ground. if anything, like you said, didn't oversteer/buang. but again, that is with semi-slicks, with that banned, how? lol

im the 2nd owner of the car, when i got the car, the mileage was around 83k+-, and iirc, i de-carbon it around 100k mileage. i think i should go for another de-carbon too.. my current mileage is almost 130k. it took around 3 months for me to reach 5k mileage as i only use the car to travel around the city, not much highway speeding.

for sparks plugs, yes 4 stock spark plugs, the top overhaul package came together with those cheapo plugs. frankly speaking, i never take out the cable and the spark plugs for inspection before as i do not have those tools to take it out and also im noob on it..

i inspect my engine oil after i left my car to cool down overnight, so i think should be accurate, the floor is pretty much flat, no slope and whatsoever. well, probably my gb is about time to get some new stuff replacement though.. i hate oil leakage, as the oil level will drop drastically makes me feel nervous. but my ground has some oil stain, so i think it started to have some minor leakage, asked my foreman, he said its still very minor yet, so just leave it there, and the heck, changing gb stuffs cost alot though..

i think my friend is, he is the leader of his car group, so i guess his words should be reliable.. who knows he is bs-ing around or what. but he is more into visual enhancements rather than performance modification.

@lowyat82

i wanted to join, see how far i can push my car to, but my car is pretty much stock, afraid will let ppl laugh and oversteer..

I'm no sifu but this is first time I've ever heard of such thing...

"if always do high rev, if your exhaust system is not modded for bigger flow, the pressure created due to high rpm will cause the engine to suck up the engine oil"

Let me say this based on my limited understanding on car exhaust...

1. High Rev/High power output results in higher rate of exhaust gas to push out.
2. If the exhaust system is not catered to handle this higher rate, it means there is high backpressure.
3. My understanding of this is, high backpressure will cause loss of performance or probably better to put the other way round, not able to squeeze out maximum performance.

I believe what your friend meant is probably if the exhaust is not tuned accordingly, the car engine will suck up more PETROL (not engine oil). I believe stock exhaust is probably not performance tuned.

lol..
how come online bookin so much different?

wat they meant by sampan is bcoz it seems ur ride abit tall thus makin it feels like sampan huyung hayang.. its bcoz d spring is too long.. sport spring will solve it..lol

car jack i guess alot will bring d big 1..lol

no 1 will laugh lo..haha.. any type car is welcome.. outside of my car also looks stock. no bodykit.. shawn's n quaza's iswara also stock

well it was "clean" when you brought it to elton, so wondering if previous owner got it done or something. i mainly travel city too btw, just that i guess i use it a lot more especially for my work (travel between sites lol)

if you noob (like me!) ask mechanic help you unplug/take out la
do note that if you cant remember/label ur plug cables connection (distributor to the spark plugs), please do this sequentially because if you mess up the connection from distributor to spark plug, your engine is going to have some bad mis-timings/firings lol

if thats the case, makan engine oil ady lo. maybe instead of top overhaul, consider saving up for a full overhaul and bukak semua? lol
do note that if your engine oil leaking on the ground is severe, it will be much worse if you speed/put more stress and temperature to the engine as engine oil viscosity gets thinner on higher temperatures, which means easier flowing aka leaking out
GB stuff if you're just dealing with the gasket, external oil sump, filter, isnt a lot. maybe 200-300 (or less) for the 3 things i mentioned

Malaysia banyak butt dyno people ma, are they reliable? hard to say. depends on your judgement i guess.

its ok la, they want to laugh can laugh at me lulz. (yes i also pretty much stock, though that day brought semi slick tires la LOL! )

lolz i dunno le.
maybe book online they get to prep the room/planning better? walk in have to arrange on the spot.

somemore book online usually charged beforehand (unless you frequent customer which is true for my case lol) so its a "guaranteed" customer.

well that "tall" part is stock ride lol. never changed my springs, only absorbers. and i dunno la, that still kinda dont explain on my car tripod'ing according to them lol
sampan until tripod? if no semi slick ma gg oversteer/car flip?

and ya only proton AT car in the whole race too i believe ROFL!
dilemma of gear 1/2, locking at 1 red line too much, scare engine blow. go to 2 it tends to up shift while exiting corners, GG LACK POWER LOL

ooo... i planin to book hotel in melaka town as well...lol.. but d hotel u intro, dun hav for superior double d.. in d mid findin other hotel..

lol..its d spring... car wont flip la..lol. mayb oversteer / understeer la..


huhu..act, got another car also AT..d proton wira green light color. belongs to iszo.

you mean twin beds? as in 2 beds together that kind? its generally budget hotels for travelers, not so much for couples/families lol. but i suppose with twin beds, one can... "improvise" lol

i thought your accommodation is arranged by the organizers? still finding?

haha i see...

and yawoh, forgotten bout him too. i think i'm 5 sec behind him, while him 2 sec behind the other guy. though IINM he got mod underneath his engine?
i know he changed his camshaft or something lol.

mine is still pretty virgin weih (well maybe not, ady full overhaul once, lol)

queen size bed..

i told d organiser i settle myself..huhu..wanna stay inside melaka town instead of ayer keroh.. pekaboo n some r doin convoy on sunday n go back on d same day

his car heavily mod.. 1.6liter stroker, forged piston,mild camshaft n yada yada.. if his is manual, then probably can unleash roughly another 30hp..

aiya atm im "settling" myself lo, tentative case and what not lol
and omfgwtf i checked hangout again, double bed tarak on 8th sep, and twin bed rm168 not rm147 on that day, WTF.

and wtf the list of mods. how is that stock lar
my car at most is just cap ayam exhaust and LCP, lol.

lol.. as long can try out track is nice d..huhu.. fyi, this MIMC is my 1st time track day..


i do bookin at this hotel... looks ok to me althhough rated 2 star..n no breakfast. lol rm2xx for 2 days

http://www.fenixinn.com/index

superior room i see? lol
difference seems to be slightly bigger, lotsa "frills", and a window. lol.

regardless, i still need at least someone to share the room with ><

my stock as in engine and also exterior.. exterior only have 1 black evo 3 side skirt just to cover my damage as i banged divider.

my trusted mech shop is about 20+km away from my house, so lazy to go so far unless i have something to repair.

already done top OH, so dont think imma do any OH too lol.. i think i should change for a better engine oil during next change but if i use semi syn, i scare my engine cant handle it as it might just goes away randomly..

talking about semi slicks, does their performance much more lesser than normal asym tyre?

btw, how far can ur 1 full tank petrol goes?

wira auto is 4speeder, but iswara 1 is 3speeder.. very sad to rev till max yo.. so far i never rev more than 6k before.. even 5.5k also like screaming for help already..

and what is yada yada?

my engine ok la. no leak/engine oil consumption lol

they are damn good on dry grip, so good you actually need more engine power to push these rubbers as they kinda stick to the tracks lol.

that said, they are dangerous (not to mention damn uncomfortable/noisy) for normal driving and they are in fact illegal too

as posted on my fuelly, my car goes between 7-8km/l, each refill around 40-43l, so * that, is how much my "full tank" takes me lo.

afaik izso's wira is a 3speeder auto
highest i've rev is around 7.5k+ for idle/neutral "short burst of vroom vroom" lol

for actual driving, around 6.5-7k only (redline liao lol)

oh damn, i missed out the keyword lol..

what i wanted to ask is does semi slicks have poorer performance during wet surface lol..

and why is it illegal? i see plenty of people using those and shops are selling it openly.

oh damn, then u are really more a furious driver than me lol. i dont push my gear to 2 nowadays.. ill just step it deeper to change it by itself. max rev 5k..

why urs can get that much of mileage where mine only able to clock around 300~320km per tank..

wet ah? your car will just aquaplane, period. no grip at all. zero, nada. see why is it illegal now? lol
it is illegal to drive it on open roads, not illegal on tracks. shops selling it assume you're going to use it responsibly (which isn't the case, and that's a bit irresponsible )

and no, i keep my gear knob on d on normal roads. it can rev 6-6.5k on gear 1/2 -> 3 shifts. only on 3rd gear pushing over 160km/h it will go 6.5-7k rpm

and where is this "that much of mileage" coming from la, 7-8km/l weih. i think im having the lowest mileage around this boards already >.>
case in point: 40 liters of fuel x 7 km = 280km wei, lol.

ooo... mayb evolution wanna go also? m goin wit waifu, so cannot kongsi wit u bro

haha...

semi synthetic can use, y canot? jus make sure u use 5/10w40.. 10w30 will make engine oil hilang.. mine tried b4.. hilang roughly 1 liter... use 5/10w40 much more safer..huhu

yada yada means his mod still vry long list.. from balancing crankshaft to head job..

totally understand la. what, you think i'd actually ask you on that? lol

Oops, let me rephrase my question....my air intake right, the airbox, the one with the mouth pointing towards the ac fan, is it okay if i remove it?...so air can go in straight from the exposed "Lip" above the engine or is that a bad idea?

This post has been edited by AzeL: Aug 28 2012, 12:19 AM

yes can be removed... afterall u still have ur air filter inside to filter any dust and dirt...

Hmm, like no difference also if i remove and put back, might as well put back haha.

Anyway, any good brands for grounding kits?, I realised my idling is not stable...normally how much does it cost for the item and coast for installing, can i DIY or do i need to go to an accessory shop?

look for LYN forumer ericteoh

LOL patutlah the tyreman recommended me cdrive2 instead of some semi slicks

but how did u managed to push up to 6 to 6.5k? i tried it, but the max also 5.5k only.. u removed the carpet behind the pedal?

then what brand do u recommend for semi syn oil?

wahaha!!

ermm.. u can install,lookout for eric at sales there. my opinion is, dun expect too much though

free up some extractor size / exhaust piping..



semi syn? last ttime i would recommend Liquimoly MOS2 10w40. but after awhile i change other brand.. not sure which 1 looks good. but now usin lucas.. still findin cheap below rm100 n quality oil...

cdrive 2 nice quiet/comfort tire. too bad i whack it hard despite being a super soft compound tire, sakit hati on the damaged sidewall on the front left tire
no issue on grip, but when do right turn, got noise. finally identified the issue, was head aching past few weeks figuring it out lol

and my throttle cable has been tightened and routed properly, so i have really responsive/precised revving lol. from pedal to the carburetor, nothing/no other wires are contacting it lol.

time to time i do wd40 lubrication on the paddle area/carb throttle cable area too

but either way, i don't recall any carpet behind the pedal. everything's still stock right there, down to the original rubber/metal pedals lol.

for semi syn EO, id recommend either torco (workshop nearby my place where i frequent to sells it), lotsa kicks for high revving or liqui moly (elton selling lolz) for smoother/quieter engine
(dont be surprised on the black colored engine oil, rofl)

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Added on August 28, 2012, 3:00 pmhows lucas oil btw? i believe howie/drex carries them
heard some good words about em, however would like to hear more.

what bout pricing? similar to liqui moly? or cheaper?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 28 2012, 03:00 PM

lucas ok lo.. much better revin on upper rpm. again, d different is there but not much,. wat good is when takin out d oil at 5k km, it stills vry oily compare to my LM 10w30.

yup, i change at ea autoworks. drex charge me rm140 include oil filter.. ah guan last time charge me rm130(promotion price)..


would wan to find quality oil below rm100...haiz... every 3month service also need 1xx..cannott tahanla..

Hmm, friend got an 8 point GC lying around, will test first for any difference, if not much won't install lor.

haha cheaper than torco/LM wo. since you have to take account for labor/oil filter.

under 100, if you're an enthusiast, id say really hard
anything sub 100 especially mainstream/mineral oils, just cant last more than 3-4k km and performance just takes a nosedive

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Added on August 28, 2012, 10:39 pmremember to get a volt meter and not butt dyno

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 28 2012, 10:39 PM

That is bad my average is 11km/l

normal shop change (timing belt & water pump) labour + part around how much?

guys lately my car acceleration not smooth, gear 1 accelerate halfway then stuck, mcm got something block the power delivery..

I think oil filter dirty...when was the last time u change? if recently ... means other culprit...

last three months lol, tis morning just changed m oil and filter, let see if the problem still persist.

Hi all. Im a recent graduate, and is looking at getting my first car after working for almost 2 years. Im looking for a car that i will only use during weekends in the city, as i spend my weekdays working in an area that doesnt have road connection.

Im looking at getting a Saga LMST, since its cheap, cheap to maintain (cheap spare parts), and cheap to repair (old uncle mechanics like fixing old cars like saga).

I would love to hear any advise about my choice - would you taikos here support, or advice me to get other cars? and if the conception about SAGA LMST (cheap price, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix) holds true.

and finally, for a LMST round 2005-2007, what would the price be like? im seeing from as low as 9800 to 18500. its a bit confusing.

if it's for ocassional weekend use, super cheap, you can't go wrong with iswara i doubt any cars in the market today have lower maintenance/repair cost than iswara.

i'm using iswara 99 so i'm not familiar with saga lmst, wait for others to comment.

If i'm not wrong saga lmst 07 model should be between 10k to 15k. I had a thread on tips for buying used cars, maybe you can get some ideas there.

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1621478&hl=

Guys, I what's the market price for the lmst's condenser? I was quoted around RM 400 ++ for a larger condenser than the ori one. Planning to change it since the air conditioning isn't that cold any more.

not sure about "larger", however reconds OEs are around 300.

its basically same wit saga iswara also. jus dat d headlamp for lmst abit fas turn yellow. better get it smoke.

d price for lmst for now roughly range from 10k-15k..


mine r year 2006 wit no power steering. lol

Sad..my car now fuel consumption is so bad. Rm50 only can last 250Km

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Added on August 31, 2012, 5:39 pmSad..my car now fuel consumption is so bad. Rm50 only can last 250Km

This post has been edited by fool1988: Aug 31 2012, 05:39 PM

mine and yrs almost same rm10 cal go 50km+- (Using semi-sync engine oil)

normal should be how much rm10 can go?

This post has been edited by BlackPen: Aug 31 2012, 08:51 PM

smoking it will help on the yellowing issue? lol

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Added on September 1, 2012, 6:03 amengine oil does not synchronize. they can be synthetic based.

also, do calculate using avg km/l or liters/100km instead of Malaysian "rm10 how far ah?"

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 1 2012, 06:03 AM

I using semi-synthetic engine oil...sorry

10.50 litres / 100km isn't ok?

alot of towndrive? or hard rev'er?

yup? mine been smoked d, after a year, it still vry clear.

average saga iswara fc is 10km/L +-3

did anyone here change extract header ?

~10km/l is fine.

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Added on September 1, 2012, 1:38 pmeh where you do? how much to do? considering doing this too if it prolongs the lifespan of the headlamps as mine's brand new original, so sayanglah sikit XD

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Added on September 1, 2012, 1:41 pmyeah done mine, full extractor to tip exhaust system replaced

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 1 2012, 01:41 PM

oh.... can i ask is 4-1 or 4-2-1 ? is the effect is obvious ?

Hi sifus. Also want to ask the same question. For LMST the stock exhaust system is using 4-1 extractor right? Would a 4-2-1 extractor be better for pickup? I'm looking for better pick up especially in the 3rd and 4th gear.

Also any recommendations on the extractor brand and exhaust piping size? Plan to change the set from extractor to piping but want to maintain the original muffler as I don't want any change in the exhaust sound