Tyre & Rim Info
1) PCD
-> stands for pitch circle diameter, numbers of bolts on the wheel
-> got a few PCD types: 100 (eg: wira, honda), 114.3 (eg: saga iswara, satria neo), 110 (kancil), etc.


2) Offset
-> distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part
-> normally can be adjusted using spacer


3) Spacer
-> a round piece of metal that has holes on it, the function is to avoid/adjust the wheel from rubbing the arch/fender
-> got few sizes/thickness
-> if u r using 8 holes rim sure need to add spacer on the front

4) 14" or 15"
-> i prefer 15" bcoz 14" less choices for performance tires tongue.gif

5) Best PCD and offset
-> 114.3 and 38-40 (need check with sifoo..)

whats your reason for sound proofing though? and yes ive done it as low yat 82 mentioned, both front doors and engine hood

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Added on August 26, 2012, 9:40 pm

i recommend you to fix the original problem instead

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Added on August 26, 2012, 9:42 pm

havent decided, lowyat82 is going i believe.

lacking money, car havent fixed. and thinking of putting ARB/sport springs etc before going to prevent round 2 of sampan, as this time semi slick banned, scare my car over turn or something weih lol

and this means, a lot of extra expenses again :/

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Added on August 26, 2012, 9:50 pm

weird, ur air filter macam more expensive, but your oil filter damn cheap, sure didnt terbalik? LOL

also, bosch plug cable rm50 je la, LYN folks selling, those are damn good and more than enough already for our car
(drex/howie also on general consensus XD)

the rest, just about right la, in fact you gotten some really good pricing too 

for distributor, to save headaches, i personally recommend sticking with proton original despite the much more expensive price. recond ones tend to stall/die off, or even incorrect idling or rough engine performance. too much headaches for my preference to be honest. and  at the end of the day, what you pay is what you get

if you fixed your rough idling, wouldn't that void the need for sound proofing? think about it.

also, even on rough idling, usually the hood would not vibrate that much, if any at all. perhaps there is free play? engine mounting issue? you claim that it doesn't bother you much... but you're seeking for sound proofing because of engine hood vibration, contradiction?

i just red line rev it to pass 1/2 gear and just sit in 3 gear lol. as for engine/gear box damage, maybe not? since i use good engine oil (either torco or liqui moly semi syn). gear box... well i am using almost rm300 per oil change worth of oil and additive. (Q8 semi syn and lubegard platinum lol)

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Added on August 27, 2012, 1:25 am

there is obviously not the case as not everyone also kena makan duit, right?

there are honest workshops out there, just got to find them

the carb idling tuning is obviously not the root cause then, you need to fix the root cause which is causing all this problem (require to fix idling, require to sound proof)

considered de-carbon your carburetor? when is the last time you replaced spark plugs? are there any fouling/premature worn on your spark plugs? what about spark plug cable? is your car grounding ok? (bad circuitry = shitty spark/misfiring = rough idling)

gear box oil only every 20k km or so change, and i am considering extending it to maybe 30k km. gearbox always smooth, oil drained out damn clear/clean and no signs of degradation, a bit wasting to change at 20k km for such good quality oil/additives lol.

and no, engine oil draining are caused by oil seal/piston rings etc leaking. nothing to do with good lube or exhaust system aren't upgraded. in fact, exhaust system has little to nothing to do with engine oil lol.

that said, my exhaust system is completely replaced with cap ayam upgrade though 

eh 2 years ago? prior to that trip to de-carbon, have you done it before? or did previous owner (not sure if you owned the car since the beginning) did it? because i decarbon my car around every 20k km, and that always exhaust a decent amount of white smoke lol. though since i am a "frequent" decarboner, only need to use around half bottle as the engine/carb isnt really that dirty
takes about 1-2 months for 5k km, so between 4-8 months for 20k km in estimation?

also, those 4 spark plugs are stock/cheapo NGK? (as in rm30-40+ or so for a pack of 4)  or fancy platinum/iridiums? because if using those cheapo ones, i just change every 5k or 10k km if they are still in good conditions upon inspection lol. maybe try inspecting it?

have you tried taking out your stock cable and inspect if there are any damage/corrosion on the cable contacts/tips? or even damage to the housing/cable exteriors?

at least we got groundings out of the way (i also recently just bought a set of VS + grounding from ericteoh )

when you inspect your engine oil, is it right after you speed? because the oil will take time to settle down back into the oil sump. best to do oil inspection is the next day in the morning to get a more accurate reading (also make sure your car is not on a slope too lol, iinm tilt to front = more while tilt to back = less?)
btw, i just did a ~165-167 max speed sprint from lcct to subang yesterday (lol figure got detained by customs. rm70 tax ) and no engine oil loss, lol.

my GB also have minor oil stains, prolly due to the gb oil sump dmg? (could be just the contacts/gasket unable to seal properly) however i inspect the gb oil levels, everytime also adequate as if never leak. i may not have the experience to inspect, however i let my mechanic to do it, also same results (they will have 1 more guy in the car to engage gear while the guy in front inspect the oil levels)
and furthermore the ground never have any oil stains... so yeah ill just leave it as it is until the next gearbox oil change, then maybe replace the GB oil sump and gasket/gb oil filter all at the same time (got a long way to go on this )

as for your friend, personally i think he is crapping. other sifu do comment/correct me if im wrong

lol..
how come online bookin so much different?

wat they meant by sampan is bcoz it seems ur ride abit tall thus makin it feels like sampan huyung hayang.. its bcoz d spring is too long.. sport spring will solve it..lol

car jack i guess alot will bring d big 1..lol
no 1 will laugh lo..haha.. any type car is welcome.. outside of my car also looks stock. no bodykit.. shawn's n quaza's iswara also stock

well it was "clean" when you brought it to elton, so wondering if previous owner got it done or something. i mainly travel city too btw, just that i guess i use it a lot more especially for my work (travel between sites lol)

if you noob (like me!) ask mechanic help you unplug/take out la
do note that if you cant remember/label ur plug cables connection (distributor to the spark plugs), please do this sequentially because if you mess up the connection from distributor to spark plug, your engine is going to have some bad mis-timings/firings lol

if thats the case, makan engine oil ady lo. maybe instead of top overhaul, consider saving up for a full overhaul and bukak semua? lol
do note that if your engine oil leaking on the ground is severe, it will be much worse if you speed/put more stress and temperature to the engine as engine oil viscosity gets thinner on higher temperatures, which means easier flowing aka leaking out
GB stuff if you're just dealing with the gasket, external oil sump, filter, isnt a lot. maybe 200-300 (or less) for the 3 things i mentioned

Malaysia banyak butt dyno people ma, are they reliable? hard to say. depends on your judgement i guess.

its ok la, they want to laugh can laugh at me lulz. (yes i also pretty much stock, though that day brought semi slick tires la LOL! )

ooo... i planin to book hotel in melaka town as well...lol.. but d hotel u intro, dun hav for superior double d.. in d mid findin other hotel..

lol..its d spring... car wont flip la..lol. mayb oversteer / understeer la..
huhu..act, got another car also AT..d proton wira green light color. belongs to iszo.

my engine ok la. no leak/engine oil consumption lol

they are damn good on dry grip, so good you actually need more engine power to push these rubbers as they kinda stick to the tracks lol.

that said, they are dangerous (not to mention damn uncomfortable/noisy) for normal driving and they are in fact illegal too

as posted on my fuelly, my car goes between 7-8km/l, each refill around 40-43l, so * that, is how much my "full tank" takes me lo.

afaik izso's wira is a 3speeder auto
highest i've rev is around 7.5k+ for idle/neutral "short burst of vroom vroom" lol

for actual driving, around 6.5-7k only (redline liao lol)

wet ah? your car will just aquaplane, period. no grip at all. zero, nada. see why is it illegal now? lol
it is illegal to drive it on open roads, not illegal on tracks. shops selling it assume you're going to use it responsibly (which isn't the case, and that's a bit irresponsible )

and no, i keep my gear knob on d on normal roads. it can rev 6-6.5k on gear 1/2 -> 3 shifts. only on 3rd gear pushing over 160km/h it will go 6.5-7k rpm

and where is this "that much of mileage" coming from la, 7-8km/l weih. i think im having the lowest mileage around this boards already >.>
case in point: 40 liters of fuel x 7 km = 280km wei, lol.

ooo... mayb evolution wanna go also? m goin wit waifu, so cannot kongsi wit u bro
haha...

semi synthetic can use, y canot? jus make sure u use 5/10w40.. 10w30 will make engine oil hilang.. mine tried b4.. hilang roughly 1 liter...    use 5/10w40 much more safer..huhu

yada yada means his mod still vry long list.. from balancing crankshaft to head job..

break pump bocor i think/ur break tube got rat bite!

nop. mine maintaiin like normal. mayb got udara inside d tube? or mayb starts show failure sign..so better check thoroughly.
hate rat!!

last time my break suddenly become like urs also. went for analysis, apparently the tube at rear wheel (left) bocor. so yeah, its like so freaking near to the car in front, and we are pressing damn hard for break. i get u man.. go for checkups tml

rat r crazy man... it chew my headlamp wayar b4 this. latest it chew till putus my 2 spark plug cable..

check the brake pumps for leaks. check brake hoses for leaks. re-bleed/flush the brake oil as required.

if still persist, could be front or rear caliper jammed. get it fixed ASAP before accidents.

=edit=
oh as a reminder: our default rear drums bite much harder than solid discs, they just response slow and are prone to fade easily.

so considering your recent mod, you might want to take a closer look at that

no lar rear also functions during normal braking. notice there's 2 hoses going into the rear drums (for my case at least, dunno bout your modded disc)
1 is for hand brake and the other for normal braking

either you misinterpreted him or he explained to you wrongly

Anyone got pajero twin layer brake servo for Proton Saga?

huah really chop kao kao.

i change rear axle bush at kent also rm180 XD
but for the work/effort hes done, i think its well worth it, lol... (whole f***ing day's work oTL)

usually it sounds like metal grind, like "ngek ngek" or rat squeaks as the bush worns out the metal parts will be having friction against each other.

kluk kluk sound could be something else 
hmm can i guess really really worn bearings? or free play around the axle area? (worn/damaged nuts/screws?)

what about other sifu comments?

except we don't have drive shafts in the rear.

btw 170 for the spring inside the pump? i think top up a bit you can get an entire master brake pump original from proton