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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V26, Keeping up with the others for over 27

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AzeL
post Jul 26 2013, 12:53 PM

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Update for my car:-

1st day went to workshop to replace driveshafts, timing belt, service, brake pad, rear brake pump, top up brake oil etc....after that used car for one day noticed weird sound from brakes...send back the next day turns out need to replace rotor, while taking out rotor noticed both front absorbers leaking and rear absorbers leaking too..causing uneven wear on my tyres...so had to change all plus servicing brakes etc...total bill for both days almost 1700 cry.gif

but damn, those KYB oil absorbers sure are comfy hahaha...this is what new absorbers feel like lol.
Quazacolt
post Jul 26 2013, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(The Silent Killer @ Jul 26 2013, 11:10 AM)
yup using kyb, front oil rear gas. and yup ori spring.

for what is lacking you asked, how should i put this, when going through potholes, my iswara is not comfortable, shakes here and there, while my mum's handles fine, very comfy. do tyres affect this? if possible i want to remain at 13" (dun wanna mess with the fc  smile.gif )

btw i changed the satay bush also when i was replacing my lower arm.
*
ok good setup thumbup.gif

now for pot holes, yes tires will definitely affect. to give an example, the kancil i have with 12" stock wheels and damn thick sidewalls, going through yellow lines at terminal putra gombak LRT is a paint in the ass.
while my iswara 15" (2" upsized) with 55 profile - obviously thinner sidewall length than the kancil and not to mention having way more contact to the ground which also means it'll pick up more discomfort/road feel; HOWEVER, the iswara (while i wouldn't say it's a breeze compared to the other nissan sentra, which i can just shrug off the lines ROFL) is MUCH more comfortable than the kancil using cheap basic 3 years aged tires (tires harden as they age)

the tires on my iswara = Yokohama c drive 2, orange oil based comfort tires, did i mention that they are super soft too? hehe.
the only downside is that they aren't that cheap (however still cheaper than Michelin PS3, and PS3 not available for 14" also, need minimum 15", 14" you need to get the entry lvl XM2) being branded, and their treadwear doesn't last that long (despite this, over 40k+ km it still got ways to go on the TWI, however i'm changing because i typically drive fast and it's dangerous for me in the wet with the current tread wear hehe)

bottom line: tires DO affect it, especially if your tires are entry level, and/or hardened (over 3-4 years usage) which you should be replacing them for safety's sake smile.gif

also if you're worried on FC, get light weight sport rims, which ACTUALLY IMPROVES FC IF the rims weight ultimately is lighter than your previous 13" steel rims smile.gif
goto tire shops that provide weights, such as bro Kent nestum at KL/Jln Ipoh
not to mention having better outlook on your car, easier to clean the rims, and inspect brake pads/rotor wears hehe.

i was going to ask on your bushing etc (such as the satay bush) however since you said you replaced, it should be fine, i guess what's remaining is just the steering rack, front absorber mounting (have you replaced these? usually they are replaced together with the absorbers so you can save on labor cost tongue.gif) and front absorber bearings.
and of course the tires.


anything more you may need to look into other measures such as anti roll bars (considering pot holes) or sound proofing which doesn't make sense because you said your mom's iswara is comfortable enough for you (which i ASSUME nothing additional has been done)
Quazacolt
post Jul 26 2013, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(AzeL @ Jul 26 2013, 12:53 PM)
but damn, those KYB oil absorbers sure are comfy hahaha...
*
told you all right? cheap and damn f***ing cheerful brows.gif

food for thought:
Nissan Sentra brand new original until now after 7 years, also using KYB absorbers. Take note that APM is under Tan Chong, however they still outsourced the suspension to KYB. Either APM is unable to provide the comfort level that KYB can provide, or the cost is much cheaper outsourcing.

And we all know that majority of Nissan car prioritizes on comfort/low NVH wink.gif

btw V27 soon, just sorting out some minor details and i'll get it running thumbup.gif
flex3x
post Jul 26 2013, 04:10 PM

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QUOTE(AzeL @ Jul 22 2013, 05:41 PM)
replaced compressor with ac service rm730....just picked up my car from workshop...turns out the rear left brake pump leaking so had it changed...total damage was rm870 lol
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The compressor that replaced is original or recon one ?

megadisc
post Jul 26 2013, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 24 2013, 07:39 AM)
I think what you meant is the meter cluster (speedometer/rpm/fuel.temp gauges). The instructions are reposted here:
Meter cluster
1) Pry out the push switches (air-con, demister, hazard etc) at the sides, and unplug their sockets
2) Unscrew 4 screws that secures the hood (2 under top, 2 at bottom).
3) Remove the hood.
4) You can see the meter cluster secured by another 4 screws. Remove these screws.
5) The meter cluster is attached to the speedo cable and 2 wiring sockets. Disconnect the 2 wiring sockets.
6) Disconnect the speedo cable by pressing on a clip (I think is white colour)(Below is sample picture illustration of speedo cable clip connection) . You have to stand outside the car and see through the windscreen. This step is a bit tight because of cramped space, but you can push the speedo cable from the engine compartment to allow more access space. After disconnecting speedo cable you can remove the whole cluster.
7) The bulbs are removed by turning 90 degrees and can be remove thru their slots.
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aweomse lah bro

next thing to work is comfotaness coz i not when i press the car down ...it doesnt bounce liao

so i can feel every road hole there is ...

the car doesnt go up an ddown so the abosorbers must be working since i got them replaced last year...

hahaha ...

any advise ?
The Silent Killer
post Jul 26 2013, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 26 2013, 12:54 PM)
ok good setup thumbup.gif

now for pot holes, yes tires will definitely affect. to give an example, the kancil i have with 12" stock wheels and damn thick sidewalls, going through yellow lines at terminal putra gombak LRT is a paint in the ass.
while my iswara 15" (2" upsized) with 55 profile - obviously thinner sidewall length than the kancil and not to mention having way more contact to the ground which also means it'll pick up more discomfort/road feel; HOWEVER, the iswara (while i wouldn't say it's a breeze compared to the other nissan sentra, which i can just shrug off the lines ROFL) is MUCH more comfortable than the kancil using cheap basic 3 years aged tires (tires harden as they age)

the tires on my iswara = Yokohama c drive 2, orange oil based comfort tires, did i mention that they are super soft too? hehe.
the only downside is that they aren't that cheap (however still cheaper than Michelin PS3, and PS3 not available for 14" also, need minimum 15", 14" you need to get the entry lvl XM2) being branded, and their treadwear doesn't last that long (despite this, over 40k+ km it still got ways to go on the TWI, however i'm changing because i typically drive fast and it's dangerous for me in the wet with the current tread wear hehe)

bottom line: tires DO affect it, especially if your tires are entry level, and/or hardened (over 3-4 years usage) which you should be replacing them for safety's sake smile.gif

also if you're worried on FC, get light weight sport rims, which ACTUALLY IMPROVES FC IF the rims weight ultimately is lighter than your previous 13" steel rims smile.gif
goto tire shops that provide weights, such as bro Kent nestum at KL/Jln Ipoh
not to mention having better outlook on your car, easier to clean the rims, and inspect brake pads/rotor wears hehe.

i was going to ask on your bushing etc (such as the satay bush) however since you said you replaced, it should be fine, i guess what's remaining is just the steering rack, front absorber mounting (have you replaced these? usually they are replaced together with the absorbers so you can save on labor cost tongue.gif) and front absorber bearings.
and of course the tires.
anything more you may need to look into other measures such as anti roll bars (considering pot holes) or sound proofing which doesn't make sense because you said your mom's iswara is comfortable enough for you (which i ASSUME nothing additional has been done)
*
wow the details laugh.gif thanks for forking out the time to reply haha.

erm the absorber mounting looks fine so i din replace them. steering rack din check. yup no modification on my mum's iswara 100% stock beside the 14" rim.

michelin xm2 not available in 13"? then i'll have to consider upsizing my rim to 14". not sure whether should i go 15" (might afraid will affect fc and iinm need to use spacer right?) maybe i should find lmst original rim. hard to find 14" rim besides stock rims no?

btw which is better, yokohama c drive or xm2? heard good reviews bout xm2
Quazacolt
post Jul 27 2013, 01:55 AM

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QUOTE(The Silent Killer @ Jul 26 2013, 11:35 PM)
michelin xm2 not available in 13"? then i'll have to consider upsizing my rim to 14". not sure whether should i go 15" (might afraid will affect fc and iinm need to use spacer right?) maybe i should find lmst original rim. hard to find 14" rim besides stock rims no?

btw which is better, yokohama c drive or xm2? heard good reviews bout xm2
*
perhaps you can try this: swap tires with your mom's iswara brows.gif
if you think it helps a lot, you know what to do next wink.gif

and yes XM2 afaik only 14" and above, have to confirm with sellers though since im not that versed with michelins. i know for sure c drive 2 only 14" and above.
like i said, fc is mainly from the weight of the rims (bigger " generally = heavier), however if you're using light weight good sport rims (expensive) then that may not be the case smile.gif
LMST original rims is heavy aka sucks tongue.gif

personally, i demand some performance/traction, and i refuse to pay the premium to michelin, so in my opinion, c drive 2 smile.gif
The Silent Killer
post Jul 27 2013, 05:08 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 27 2013, 01:55 AM)
perhaps you can try this: swap tires with your mom's iswara brows.gif
if you think it helps a lot, you know what to do next wink.gif

and yes XM2 afaik only 14" and above, have to confirm with sellers though since im not that versed with michelins. i know for sure c drive 2 only 14" and above.
like i said, fc is mainly from the weight of the rims (bigger " generally = heavier), however if you're using light weight good sport rims (expensive) then that may not be the case smile.gif
LMST original rims is heavy aka sucks tongue.gif

personally, i demand some performance/traction, and i refuse to pay the premium to michelin, so in my opinion, c drive 2 smile.gif
*
funny you should mention about switching the rim. i was thinking the same thing and something struck me: mum's iswara has high fc (dunno is it due to the aging exhaust, the auto tranny or the rim), not to mention the rims are ugly as shit lol. i should one day pay a visit to the tyre shop u mentioned. but i just changed my tyre few months ago. so i guess few more yrs to go before i wear them out (might be able to change car by that time tongue.gif ). but then again, who knows, i might have itchy butt and change them in the near future. im somewhat gullible when it comes to replacing stuffs in my car rofl.

ill share the fc and ride comfort if i happen to replace them. again, much appreciated for ur input bro. helps alot notworthy.gif
Quazacolt
post Jul 27 2013, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(The Silent Killer @ Jul 27 2013, 05:08 AM)
ill share the fc and ride comfort if i happen to replace them. again, much appreciated for ur input bro. helps alot  notworthy.gif
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sure you're welcome biggrin.gif
Albert B
post Jul 27 2013, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(megadisc @ Jul 26 2013, 10:35 PM)

next thing to work is comfotaness coz i not when i press the car down ...it doesnt bounce liao

so i can feel every road hole there is ...

the car doesnt go up an ddown so the abosorbers must be working since i got them replaced last year...

hahaha ...

any advise ?
*
Quazacolt is discussing on the issue of comfort (right on this page), I do not have experience in tackling this issue.
Albert B
post Jul 28 2013, 10:19 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 26 2013, 04:04 AM)
what shocks you've been using? if comfort, KYB oil is the among the best
also are the springs original ones and not sport/hardened springs?


*
Quazacolt, usually people change to sport springs (harder) for better road handling, at the expense of comfort.

Is there such thing as softer spring than original, to give better ride comfort, but never mind the handling (for urban low speed use only)? I am noob in these kind of modifications.
Quazacolt
post Jul 28 2013, 06:04 PM

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From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 28 2013, 10:19 AM)
Quazacolt, usually people change to sport springs (harder) for better road handling, at the expense of comfort.

Is there such thing as softer spring than original, to give better ride comfort, but never mind the handling (for urban low speed use only)? I am noob in these kind of modifications.
*
yes i know, that's why i am eliminating the possibility of him having those springs and that is what caused his lack of comfort.

and yes, there are softer/longer springs than original ones, some people call those taxi springs. handling will obviously go to the gutter because more body roll and less stability.
awansakti
post Aug 2 2013, 01:27 PM

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Hi hi. Can ask quick question? I hit 100k km mark not long ago, now at 115k km. For 100k km only did engine oil n its filter change, new spark plugs. Timing belts, gear oil all changed earlier. At the moment driving feels pretty much normal and ok. I've read about the need for ?top overhaul or whatever its called, and change clutch plate. Question is whats the real indication for those? Thanks!
Quazacolt
post Aug 2 2013, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(awansakti @ Aug 2 2013, 01:27 PM)
Hi hi. Can ask quick question? I hit 100k km mark not long ago, now at 115k km. For 100k km only did engine oil n its filter change, new spark plugs. Timing belts, gear oil all changed earlier. At the moment driving feels pretty much normal and ok. I've read about the need for ?top overhaul or whatever its called, and change clutch plate. Question is whats the real indication for those? Thanks!
*
if there's no oil leaks or engine oil consumption, 'special'/excessive exhaust smoke, or gear changing issues, no need to top overhaul/change clutch plate smile.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 2 2013, 02:44 PM

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post exceeding 2500, new V27 is created: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2900268

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