hi guys,

would like to ask, how do I adjust the headlamps on LMST ? I see there are 2 screws at the back of it with a gear shaped thing surrounding it ..

one adjusts left right, another adjusts top down.

before you adjust, you might want to take note or mark down the original position, so you can go back to it if you need to. if you park the car facing a white wall, turn on headlights, you should be able to see the brightest point of the light moving as you adjust the screws. please be considerate to drivers in front don't adjust too high up

yeah that's what I want to do.. as I have not adjusted it before since I changed my headlamps frame and it is sorta firing straight at drivers

so do I adjust the gear shaped thing or the screw that's in the middle of it ? and what would be the ideal configuration

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/1347221

I don't have an LMST not sure what you mean my gear/screw but in older iswara, the gear and screw is together. Turn the screw (philips head, right?) and the gears turn as well...

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Nov 27 2012, 10:21 PM

alright thanks bro I will try it out

yup. cost me 8500. spent close to 2000 doing it up. Some major do ups include:

engine stand - 2 of 4 stands replaced
brake pads - both
hood - taken off, resprayed
battery - new 'disposable type'
belts - new timing belt, aircon belt, fan belt
interior - cushion and side panels steam cleaned, new carpet
oils - the horrible s*it that came along were all drained off - engine, gear, brake, power steering, and replaced with good stuff.

others are small stuff - pipes, cables, caps, logo, airpress, new wipers

spent some time sanding away parts with some signs of rust, and coated them with aluminium paint, and I glued up split plastic parts with heat resistant silicone glue. planning to some time tear open the panels and doors to spray anti rust oils on the joints, and to sand down and aluminium coat areas with rust.

the only downside of this car is the 'boom' noise it makes - the previous owner put on some kind of exhaust system that made it roar. see no point of putting on new exhaust system since this one is working fine. just have to live with it.

total cost - 10500. vs typical graduate cars like BLM @ 45000 or MVYI @ 50000? cheap as. I would prefer this LMSS anytime over a BLM.

ill pop the pictures up soon. just gotta give it a proper wash and all.

This post has been edited by Brobozoider: Nov 28 2012, 01:51 PM

yaya..please be considered to drivers in front that don't adjust too high

typically you'd want to replace all the engine mounts 1 go since labor cost/time required etc. and you probably have no idea on the condition of the existing engine mounts.

consider replacing the ATF (or manual gear oil, cant remember your car is AT or MT?) and if AT, replace the filter too (basically doing full flush/drain already) and its gaskets the next time you're replacing it since you've mentioned that you already did it.
consider performing engine flush too, and throttle body/carburetor cleaning as well.
consider spark plug cable, spark plugs, and even distributor rotor replacements too after inspecting their condition.
get a voltmeter/other utility to check on your car grounding current, if low, do clean your existing grounding cable from oxidization. if still low, consider adding grounding cables. recommended ones are ericteoh from LYN. please do NOT ever consider cheap HKS imitations and other similar grounding cable products, they are utterly useless.

for rusted parts, if the rust has gone deep into the metal, there is no choice but to replace them as it is already penetrated deep and coating above is only to hide the problem. eventually rust oxidization/byproduct will surface and will push away your aluminum coat. (similar to how "bubbles" form under even fresh sprayed paints for really old vehicles, like the roof of my car )

as for the exhaust, consider spending rm200-500+ for a good s-flow muffler (and even a good mid bullet if you got additional budget to spare) that will help suppress most of the noise, while maintaining performance
if you're not looking for performance, even chicken brand will suffice

and yeap, good choice on the car and yes it is really cheap compared to any other choices

some tip on washing (if you're ever going to learn detailing like i am picking it up now):
buy proper car wash product (please do not use dishwashing/laundry soap/detergent/product ), and consider claying > polish > wax if the previous owner neglected the paint/car exterior

for the budget concious, i highly recommend kura kura [lol turtle] wax F21 car wash
http://www.turtlewax.com/detail-F21%20Car%20Wash-9-111.aspx

http://www.turtlewax.com/detail-Zip%20Wax%...064oz-9-43.aspx
zip wax + car wash if you're either lazy and/or you don't want to bother with detailing

wow, lots of tippers from the boss Quazzacolt.

the car is in MT - and yep the filter is new. took me a while to find it last time. went to 4 spare parts shops - and this old uncle found one for me.
was wondering too if i want to replace the AC/DC boys, but since theyre doing well, i reckon ill just leave em first.
as for the spark plug cables, they r ok too. the previous owner has put in a pretty decent one. will leave that first.

chucked out one extra engine mount this morning, and put in a fresh mount. now 3 of 4 mounts are new - only the back mount is old. too difficult to reach. the old mount has some real hard rubber, sudah keras. put in the original proton mount. total time, 30 mins. warm up the car this morning, and the vibration on the dashboard is almost non existent.

will drive the car to KL tomorrow and return to my current place in Kuala Terengganu a week after. lets see if Tommy the Silver Lining can handle the heat and long drive.

btw, mind explaining claying? as in clay up and smoothen bent surfaces?

hi all LYN saga/iswara owners, i have a Proton iswara LMSS(special edition) 2003 for sale. The reason i'm selling is because i'm going to overseas soon.

Below is the details of my car:
- Smooth and silent engine
- Power steering(original)
- Sport rims
- Original paint
- Service on time
- Clean interior
- New front bumper(changed last year)
- Mileage 155k km


Below are the bills i paid in the past 1 year to keep the car in a good condition(all the receipts are still with me):
2011 Sept: rm830
1) rear brake shoe(Proton), 1 pair - rm120
2) rear axle new, not recon - rm580
3) rear bearing(NSK, made in Japan), 2pcs - rm130

2012 Feb: rm628
1) front lower arm, 1 pair - rm170
2) front rack end, 1 pair - rm180
3) front tie rod end, 1 pair - rm130
4) front bar bush, 1 pair - rm90
4) front stab bar kit(satay stick kit), 1 pair - rm58

2012 May: rm690
1) clutch cover + clutch disc + clutch bearing(Exedy, made in Japan) - rm280
2) fly wheel oil seal - rm120
3) drive shaft oil seal, 2pcs - rm170
4) gear shaft oil seal - rm85
5) gear oil - rm35
* those oil seals are better quality one.

2012 July: RM1930
1) front brake pad(Japan, yellow color box) + rear brake shoe(this time duno what brand) - rm240
2) front disc rotor(Bosch), 1 pair - rm380
3) brake master pump(Proton) - rm180
4) front brake pump kit, 1 pair - rm180
5) brake oil(Castrol), flushing - rm85
6) front bearing(NSK, made in Japan) + oil seal, 2 sets - rm240
7) rear bearing(NSK, made in Japan) + oil seal, 2 sets - rm170
8) rear brake pump(Bosch) - rm130
9) front brake pump piston(caliper piston), 1 pair - rm240
10) labour - rm85

2012 Sept
- 1 new tyre(the reason being not 1 pair is because 1 of my tyre puncture, that's y i change 1 only)

2012 October:
- Gear oil

2011 April
- engine mounting, bushes and etc.

Feel free to contact/pm/email me if any of you are interested. The reason I ask around LYN is because I have changed so many good quality parts which I think I shd benefit LYNians(益自己人) instead of benefiting outsiders. I ask around in LYN first before i post to mudah.my or sell to 2nd hand car dealer.

Contact details:
Hp number: 016-5669998
Email: ken_ng@hotmail.co.uk

Thank you.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 1 2012, 01:44 AM

Guys

Finally found a workshop with the proper OBDT tools here. It seems like my UK spec have the following problem

Air flow sensor died with reading at 0
ISC fault with reading at 0
Atmospheric pressure sensor at 0
Knock sensor error shown

Anybody got idea for the price of the components?

wow..change alot stuff d.. interested , but need spare more to buy mpv..lol

wow..all faulty ka? not sure in malaysia got or not.. btw, u can ask this guy from UK https://www.facebook.com/UkSpecProton?fref=ts not sure he got or not..

Hi, im a proud saga iswara/kete kebal for almost 9 years. I hv a problem where the car shakes like hell when warming up n a bit when turning off the engine.

The output from the exzos also smells (overburned petrol) when warming up the car in the morning. Can any sifus in this thread give a diagnose? Thank u.

Im not sifu, but you should go service your carburetor auto choke and re-tune carb settings. Maybe retard distributor a bit for good measure.

Ya. Plug in only straight away reading at 0. Maybe thats why the car have some random knocking and sputtering

ya, i've never plan to sell before this that's why i changed lot of parts. But i'm going to overseas soon so i have to sell the car.

Thx jedi. May i know how much will this cost? Thx again.

sell cheap cheap i take la..lol