Yes, diesel engine last longer. And diesel engine are harsher on engine oil than gasoline engine. If Mineral oil can withstand turbo charged diesel engine, then it should be a piece of cake working in normal gasoline engine. And like I say, I have never seen engine oil related problem with Mineral

My D4D 2.5 hilux still using mineral engine oil. Changed oil interval every 8~9k KM after the warranty period of 100k km. Now the mileage reads over 300k km liao.. The engine efficiency still maintained, green engine - till now no black smoke, vehicle used daily about 150~200k KM perday.. Very reliable monster...

That is our experience as well. As long as you use a good quality Mineral oil like the Delo 400, there is nothing to worry and we see absolutely no need for Fully Synthetic because like I said, we have NEVER encountered any engine oil related problem.

This is why I used mineral for my CFE also.. No need to waste $$ at this moment for something that can do the same job.. With such high demand & expectation for performance engine nowadays, the engine oil manufacturer are also not far from achieving to the demand..

For reason not fully known, Lotus and Proton engineers said the most suitable oil for CFE is 10W30 and these are almost all Semi or Mineral and not Fully Synthetic.

hi all...

planning to get exora bold premium end of this year or early next year....

the only part that i'm not really like is just the dashboard console...so just wondering;

1. can i just change the standard radio/dvdd player to become a touch screen monitor so that can play radio/dvd/reverse camera all in one...?
2. i hope i can change the manual control of the aircond to be the digital one...hehe...

another thing is, just got info that be careful with the turbo because it will give a problem when it reached 3 years...is it true? anybody can comment about this..?

thanks

With no proper maintenance, many thing will break down, not just the turbo. Few general advise, nothing specific, on turbo use:

1. If possible, after a long hard run, let engine cool down a 1 to 3 minutes before switching off.

2. Use good quality engine oil. Mineral is fine and I use them. Just don't use fake or Cap Ayam brand.

3. Clean air filter.

4. Stick to manufacturer's Oil Change Interval.


Do that and you should have no problem with turbo charger for at least 10 years.

CONFUSED



Hi all,

Need to ask you all about the type of engine oil used for EB 1st service. I do refer to the manual and it says that you need to used 10W30 for engine oil.

But this morning I was told by the officer at the SC that the manual is wrong. It is duplicated from CPS exora. The reason he said is that our interval period for service is every 10k km that's why need to used fully synthetic which is Syntium 1000 15W50 is it true.???

Is it affect our engine in long term??

Anyone get the same experience???

its actually depending on how heavy do you used your EB. it was highly recommended for those who are a heavy traveller to use a high quality of EO (engine oil) which literally means fully synthetic... the advantage, u could prolonged ur service interval.. if the car was on heavy used, i will not let it last for 10k.. i would shorten the interval a bit, such as every 8k or 9k, because basically when it reach 8k, based on my own experience, the engine started to feel a bit lag, a sign of EO not performing well.. one might argue this, but im talking about the car was on heavy use, such as 10k of mileage in less than a month... if u think that u commute ur EB as usual, not so heavy driving, less long journey, u might opted for semi synthetic that required for a 5k service interval... mind you, VW car was design for fully synthetic EO on 15k service interval, but if u spoke to the mechanic, u will hear more less the same like the one i wrote above... just my 2 cents..

for who bought the cheap hks grounding cable check this out, i got these pictures from another forum.
inside is stone powder, lol.






This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Sep 11 2012, 03:36 PM

I thought the service interval that shows in the service booklet and the types of EO in the manual have been take into consideration by those engineer in proton...Otherwise what is the point of having those info in the manual and the service booklet..?? Is it just the save point to be considered by the users ???

Can someone explain ??

This post has been edited by jinggo80: Sep 11 2012, 09:23 PM

Hi all,

I notice the following on my EB:

1) When i turn off our enginer and pull out the key, the indication on the front panel will show the driver seat door is open eventhough the door has yet to be opened.

2) The reverse camera is very blur at night at poorly lit area to the extend that it is quite useless as i just cannot trust what i see in the camera

Anyone experience the same thing? is this normal or it just happen on my EB?

TQ

I did bought the HKS cheap grounding cable RM12 bucks per set only. The different I found was, the cheaper ones has lesser strain of wire, while the much expensive ones have more strains. Before DIY, I try pulling the cable lug out, just to test how strong the cable lug attached to the cable. So, I found two of them came out easily.. Not happy with that, I decided to solder all of them. I did not encounter such a "stone powder wire" shown here.. If it is, then I would not able to solder it..
Pity the poor guy who got cheated

1. I never experience this before. But I experienced worse thing than you do, my EB randomly notify me that one of the door in not properly close while I driving. So it will continue beep until I open the door and close it back. But now no more already, maybe when new everything is tight so the door ajar sensor misread

2. Same, no choice. Any camera also when record in low lit area also will be very blur. Why? Because the camera will set the ISO and exposure to the highest which will results in many noise. Solution is to add on brighter reverse light that point to the ground

it was a general guidance... the minimum requirement for preventive maintenance for the car... the semi synthetic is the minimum grade.. u could go for the better EO, such as fully synthetic should u want to...

anyone manage to solve petrol smell in cabin issue?

IMO. Your car will not have engine oil related problem for 10 yrs minimum if you keep to that minimum preventative maintenance and using good Mineral. Good enough for me.

This is based on our experience with good quality Mineral 15W40 oil on highly stressed turbo diesel engines. All our cars are engine oil problem free for at least 10 - 12 yrs and up to 500,000-km on odometer

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Sep 12 2012, 10:09 AM

My friend (Merdeka Endurance Race car Engineer) give me simple guide, for Turbocharge engine just stick with 10W__ semi/fully synthetic oil for first 20,000km & can consider 5W__ after that. But 10W__ fully synthetic oil not many brand/company produce. Last time found Selenia Abarth/Gold (now own by Petronas for Racing - http://www.pli-petronas.com/products/am_selenia.aspx), Liqui Moly, Redline & Castrol Edge (most supercar use this like BMW M series). I will stick with 10W__ semi for my EB coz 10W fully price 2/3 times higher.

Normally I change other topics when he try give detail explanation about it, coz I'm not really understand it.