Version 6 starts here...




This post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 8 2012, 02:01 PM

first!!

second ~ !! Lol...

perhaps it is time for each and everyone that owns an arowana to update picture their arowana here on first page of arowana lover V6 as hall of fame? Rather than, first! Second!

LOL..

my aro. sorry blur image. it's a high back msia gold. age 11 months.

This post has been edited by Travies: Mar 9 2012, 12:32 AM

woah!!11 month already colour like this...niceeeeee....any tips bro..mine 12 month colour isnt that nice yet..i'll upload later..

hi guys.... im new to arowana..but yesterday my dad manage to get a arowana from his friend ...his friend said that this arowana is HB...( will post a pic later when i go home )

i wanna ask some advice from sifu out there..

1 . i would wanna know the basics of sump tank setup materials and guides... i know the 1st layer will always be white filter wool..2nd and 3rd compartment will be bio rings ( or theres something better? pls enlighten me ) 4th compartment im planning to put some plants and some some guppies inside is that okay?

2. im getting a 5ft overflow tank...is 2 way overflow ( each corner ) will be a good choice? and after reading arowana v5 forums...i assume a EHEIM compact+ 3000 is good enough to support my 5ft tank. Also 1 more thing...is it okay for me to feed the water back in at the bottom of the water tank...cause by doing this i think the water will cycle better?

3. lastly is the lighting...IF my arowana is a HB....wat lighting and background should i use? im a signboard contractor so i can manage to get all sorts of colour stickers for my upcoming aquarium ^^

to all sifus out there...thank you for advice hope i can post the picture soon.!!

This post has been edited by Kelv1n: Mar 9 2012, 06:29 PM

i believe my aro is female because the characteristic is,wideness is not as wide as male and not as colourful as male..

my monster and i will update one of my new family chili red aros.....


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no pic, video instead



This post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 9 2012, 06:13 PM

haha pig pig how old is ur HB? i notice so many bio ball floating. too bad my aro have 1 side eyedrop. i think hard to cure.

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Added on March 10, 2012, 12:36 amguys would like to ask my tank often will have this kind of dirt(refer pic) appear even just few days i do the WC. anyone know why? how to encounter it. do i need to have a fish that eating dirt in my tank?

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Added on March 10, 2012, 12:40 amno much tips. water change weekly or 10 days. just give MW as main meal, cricket just let him try recently due to it lose appetite to MW. mind to share yours? also HB? btw, nobody is perfect, mine aro have 1 side eyedrop.

This post has been edited by Travies: Mar 10 2012, 12:40 AM

WC weekly -check
MW as main food - cant check because my aro dont want to eat..SW?will only eat if i starve it for a day or 2..my aro prefer cricket..and fish..aiyo..really out of idea on how to make the aro eat the worm..it will even swim in diff direction when d worm nearing it..

HB?mine is MGBB..waiting for it to mature colourwise n sizewise..

Guys ok for sump filter when the water goes down and you know you gotta top up , do you guys top up with water and anti chlorine or just water ? some forums say with just water since the anti chlorine content in the existing water is alot already. question 2 ) how much and how often do you do a WC for your tanks ? mine is a 6 footer and do you suction water from the sump or from the tank itself ?

mine 4 ft. suck from tank itself. do weekly WC or about 10 days. normally when i fill up with water, i let the tap water go into my sump tank pass thru all the filter media then only use motor to pump into tank. others pls advice, not sure is correct method.

when suck from tank that means you off your sump motor and all isit during cleaning ? im still abit fuzzy as to if anti chlorine is needed when topping up the water level in sump filter.pls advice arowana peeps.

if top up abit only, it will be fine to use tap water directly..any volume above 5% then anti chlorine is a must..

and travies, do not let the tap water pass thru all ur media..if tap water pass thru all the media = chlorine passing thru all ur media hence above 50% of ur beneficial bacteria will be kill off..

i would suggest u to refill the water at the water pump compartment or directly into the tank..so that chlorine will not affect ur matured medias

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Added on March 11, 2012, 9:57 pm

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Added on March 11, 2012, 10:00 pm

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Added on March 11, 2012, 10:02 pmThis post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 11 2012, 10:02 PM

Thanks for the helpful answers how do you guys add back water into your tanks after like a 30% or more water change ? I tend to notice bucket by bucket is okayyy but relatively unaffective and takes up ALOT of time.any other creative suggestions ? My old 4 foot tank i used to do bucket by bucket but my 6 foot tank its like almost impossible lol.thanks in advace again guys

very helpful notes pigpig.....my 6" arowana is eating MW very well now... looks like he is adapted to the new enviroment very quickly.

here is my current arowana....can any sifu tell me wat kind is this?


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thank you ^^ im currently putting this arowana under T5 light with white background...will that be okay? i cant really find some guides in the goggle bout colour tannings...i saw alot of arowana owners put black background ...hmm

soo water from the houses water tank should be fine ? won't adding chlorine into the aquarium while adding the water at the same time be risky or anything ? sry , noob when it comes to 6 foot aquariums LOL.

i heard they say black is to boost your aro's colour and dark blue to boost the blue base..but seriously i believe all of this is just theory.at the moment im trying the dark blue bground..

hmm..perhaps i should take sometime to write an article about the background colouration and tanning lamps...it is a pain in the ass the explain the entire thing..

i try to make this simple as possible..

white background = increase shine of arowana, decrease intensity of colour depth

blue background = most natural background for arowana colour development in a natural way...


black background = intensify colour depth, decrease the shine (depending on the arowana gene) a fake gold head are likely to fade away in black tank..yes, u DIDN'T read wrong, gold head can be made


ok..tanning lamp..

tanning = intensify colouration...red will be much redder depending on the lamp and genetics of the fish and gold arowana will gets a better gold tone at the same time having burn-look-alike markings due to the tanning lamp..

erm....easy facts....i do not wish to explain in detail here..could take me 30minutes+++ jz to write all the detail..not yet even relating arowana to those background and tanning stuff..

is very clear enough for me will remain my arowana in white tank 1st before my new 5ft arrives then make it black background !!.. thank you !!!

does that mean that if we use blue background it doesnt intensify the colour as much as the black background?at the moment im using blue background with the high intensity light for tanning purpose.not sure if its the best combination though..

i would prefer to keep a juvenile of any golden arowana in a white tank with normal white lights (WTT) until it reaches above 12inches before u started to lock it's shine and start to intensify and bring out the depth colouration of their shine

sorry but im a bit noob..my mgbb is 1 year old this month and currently is 10 inch..by referring to your advice it means im too ealry in introducing my aro to blue background and the high intensity light..please advice me whether is there any difference if u start tannig earlier then 12 inch and after 12 inch..

btw thank you for replying my queries.

hi..i'm new here..

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Added on March 13, 2012, 2:23 pmhi..i'm new here..

This post has been edited by amilism: Mar 13 2012, 02:23 PM

sifu's im using the internal pump(i dont know what its called,its the type that suck water from below and squirt out at the front and on the filter on top)2000l/h.apparently they said 2000l/h is sufficient for a 4ft x 1.5f x 1.5f but im seing particles in the water..fine one..floating in the water..not sure its normal or not..i thought its because of the filtering media..i used the white cotton like filter plus the green that look like pot scrub in the kitchen..lol...any idea any reason of this?

6 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet. sump filter is 3 feet by 1.5 and 1.5 or 2.not too sure.

where did u bought ur MGBB from? Any full side view? Yr previous pics, i cant verify the quality of ur MGBB..

The differences of tanning ur fish early or tanning ur fish when it have mature is the overall development..

For goldie, if u tan it early or if u put it into black background early before it have even develop their teenage shine, the shine that are develop under that environment isn't as smooth and balance as those that are groomed under WTT before transfering it to a blue or black tank..

Usually for arowana, above 12inches is when they entering teenage..the shine and size will climb pretty alot that time..

So if u started tanning ur arowana below 12inches, the shine that started to develop during teenage will looks like dot dot pattern not so smooth..meanwhile in a WTT condition the shine will develop very smoothly and then we started to lockdown the shine with some skills before we transfer it to darker background tank..so that the shine will stay before we starts to intensify the colouration..

This is grooming skills for goldie arowana..grooming skills for red is another different story..
I hope this helps u..and the skills i mentioned, i prefer to keep it to myself..

=P

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Added on March 13, 2012, 6:34 pmhi there..welcome to the thread..do u own any arowana or are u interested in owning one yourself?

If u own any, post a pics here and share with us..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Mar 13 2012, 06:34 PM

thank you for taking your time to reply in detail..

I bought it from as-sakinah.have cert n chip planted.bought it when its 11 month old(just got it for a month)been doing research here and there but so far i have mix theory in my head and so far your advice is the most detail.

refering to your advice,im going to change to white and wait until 12 inch(another 2 inch to go)all this while my aro is in a white carbon tank..so should be any problem i guess..will change to black once he reach 12 inch..my blue background i will just bungkus and keep la then..

the lockdown with some skills izzit available to be passed down..i mean like a sifu to the student way..somehow it sounded so tempting to know it..thihhihihihi...

im deeply in love with my aro and somehow its like a pride to own one..so im going to groom it to look the best..hope all the sifu's here can teach us the noobs..

lol..no need pass down la..i teach u here, u jz do as i said..muahahaha..

So now ure gonna transfer ur gold into a white fiber tank la?

How big is the tank?

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Added on March 13, 2012, 7:04 pmand i will need some clear picture of your goldie..

Full side view
and full top view..make sure the pics are clear..

If u cant capture the pics, take video under white lights..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Mar 13 2012, 07:04 PM

i'll go and check the pricingla..can prevent his eyes become DE also because now he keep on looking down..if too expensive then i'll try to get white backgroundla..see which 1 better.i'll snapp my aro pic from top and side and post it..if i manage to getla..if not i'll upload a video..im at office now..going back now..upload it in a while..

if u wanna get a normal white 422 fiber tank(FGT)..not very pricey lo..

If ure interested, u can simply visit our facebook page and inquire from there..we will give u a special price..

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Added on March 13, 2012, 8:05 pmand DE is a very very subjective issue..until now, i cannot figure out the real cause..even singaporeans who experiment arowana with the help of science could not give a 'for sure' answer..

But so far, the cause that are related to DE is,
-lighting
-food
-genetics

This post has been edited by leggedy: Mar 13 2012, 08:05 PM

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Mar 13 2012, 09:00 PM

how much did u bought this piece bro?

Guys when i bought my new arowana i added this anti fungal medicine into the water as a precaution , very light dosage.it gives out a green cloudy colour ( like most of this medicines) so it's been a few days and the green ness has warn off but the cloudy ness is still there.should a 10 % water change help in reducing it ? or any other ideas you guys have to handle thing ? maybe from experience.cause most of the meds i used to use last time don't really stain the water much.

what is the best meal for aro when it is 13 inch? I notice the appetize is not as good as before sometimes.

i heard when aro getting mature they are not eat as much as before? will i need to reduce giving their food?

2k wen its 9 inch..11month..its a bit cheaper then the rest because hv slight DE..wen i choose him..look like already ok..wen go home notice gt a bit DE..now pt ping pong ball n trying my best to feed floating food like mw,sw n cricket..should i follow the ur advice on the white background since my aro didnt reach 12inch yet..or black bground..

whether u shuld put white tank or black tank is up to ur preferences..

What needed to be explain has already been done..

Do update with us on ur MGBB growth..

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Added on March 14, 2012, 11:21 am13inches should eat like a cow..dun worry too much on whether ur aro eat enug or not..as long as it is acting normal..maintain good water quality..weekly water change and consistent temperature 28-30..

I starve b4 my red for a month..pigpig here starve before his goldie for 2months..lol..

This post has been edited by leggedy: Mar 14 2012, 11:21 AM

can survive meh up to 2 month?i dun dare to starve yet but the 1st 3 days my aro didnt eat anything..worried but read in forum its normal as the aro is adjusting to the environment.now didnt worry as much..but 2 month?that i dun dare to do..

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Added on March 14, 2012, 11:55 amstill waiting for advice from sifu's and peers..

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Mar 14 2012, 11:55 AM

thx for the advise... leggedy should i keep to feed MW?

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Added on March 14, 2012, 12:11 pmis your medicine name S1? u should change water slowly untill the medicine color gone.

This post has been edited by Travies: Mar 14 2012, 12:11 PM

travies, try changing to SW..MW looks too small for ur 13inces..if ur aro accept multiple diet..then feed multiple food is the best..try not to feed any cricket..bullfrog, juvenile catfish, tiny patin, sometimes some betta fish, SW, sometimes 2bucks of feeder, earthworm, etc, any small aquatic food that u think will feed into ur aro mouth.. And if ur aro accept multiple diet..

is it white colour.? how long have you own this tank.?

nola pigpig..just the normal glass tank..im thinking of getting the white fibre tank..btw im still not good in the filtering thing..but so far maintaining the ph..amonia and the chlorine at good level..but the particles in the water irritates me..it like fine bits that come out for SW when the aro bite it..

my goodness, am asking the colour of the floating particles...

owh..sorry sorry..my bad..its white..very fine..it come from the SW bits when the aro bite the SW..its floating in the water evrywhere...does it means my filter media isnt good enough or 2000l/h pump is not strong enough?hope can give me some advice as im not satisfied with the particle..call me aperfectionist but i want it if possible to be crystal clear...

again you did not answer all my question.. how old is ur tank..

few years..forgottenla pigpig..if im not wrong 3 years..someone gave it to me..4fx1.5fx1.5f..is it because its to old?the fileter is new though..and before i bought my aro..i have clean it and sterile it with hot water as well..not sure though..any idea why?

lol, seriously, if you are in front of me right now, im gonna give u a smack so hard you will remember me for the rest of your life.. okay, i dont care the age of your tank, just tell me, how long since you 1st started raring a fish in this tank...

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Arowana-Fell...192673100813779

if have time, check this out

This post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 14 2012, 07:54 PM

Lol...hahahaha..owh..i rare the aro like a month plus..water change 30% 1-2 times a week..ill check the link in a short while

thanks leggedy. btw may i know what is SW?

OMG i didnt know aro food can be so many variable. cricket seem like alot for my aro, why cricket is not advisable?

any patin fish or any color betta fish also can? fish feeder like those small gold fish?

try not to feed any cricket..why leggedy?my aro seems to enjoy it..furthermore the guy i bought the arowana from said that cricket and MW is the main diet before he sold it to me..

simply becoz cricket are their most addictive food..once they tasted cricket, we will have a hard time trying to convert their diet..

SW means superworm, those big worm..MW, mealworm is those tiny ones..

One simple rules to feed ur aro, any food that can fit their mouth is fine..my red, eaten my duckhead patin long ago..i bought that fella for rm68..i tot it is so long that it wont be eaten..but the moment i put it in, my aro facial expression says, 'wow, sth new! Looks yummy..'

then it goes, CHOMP..only the head left turning left and right..seeing my rm68 gone within minutes..zzzzz

now that might be the answer why my aro is not interested with SW & MW..he will eat it if he's super hungry but the next day he wong eat it at all..cricket is the other way around..i can feed like 12-15 in a row..hmm..he eat feeder fish and prawn..also when he's super hungry..but cricket almost any time if i drop it he will just come and ngap...

Hi there !!! I'm new here !!! I have 2 arowanas.... yellow 4" and super high back gold 8".... Planning to get another 1... Need some advice here.... Dunno which 1 to get.... A super red, cross back golden blue base or 24K golden.... Thanks

Hi just want to update my Kelisa Emas since I just manage to snap 2 picture of it...

size around 9-10 inch
diet mainly MP





enjoy n comment pls...

Since im not good in telling the breed yet..may i know wat breed is this?

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Added on March 16, 2012, 12:38 amAnyone heard of 24k gold before..i heard its a cross breed between mlaysian gold and red..any info?

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Mar 16 2012, 12:38 AM

good pick bro..thick frame BBMG..

This is more to BBMG... as for 24k it's not a hybrid aro it's a Gold based MG....

I would prefer a thin frame butend up thick.. but still a stunner at size 9-10 inch

i spotted a few pieces of good bbmg..some even slight purplish..if ure interested..i can tell u the place..

But the one with slight purplish, got some tail defect..the core colouration is damn clean and naiss..only at 8inches..

Here is my Goldy. Hoho...

Looking forward to get another mgbb..leggedy cn advice wer to find a good 1?

pandan indah..opposite 99aquarium.. Got one piece of BBMG, he tag the fish rm7888..lol..

Go have a look at that piece..very fine piece..nowadays is hard to find any like that one..

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Added on March 16, 2012, 7:10 pmoperation full swing!
Muahahahaha..

- deScaler!
- scissors!
- transmore!
- a piece of huge chunk wood! (in case transmore didnt work)

This post has been edited by leggedy: Mar 16 2012, 07:10 PM

Hehe. Block ur calendar bro!! This Sunday .

This post has been edited by kent75: Mar 16 2012, 07:16 PM

okay..have u bought insurance? Muahahaha

Ok i know this might sound stupid but..can buy insurance for aro meh?

Btw im going to see the aro today

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Added on March 17, 2012, 6:48 pmGolden base mlysian gold?izzit golden head?

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Mar 17 2012, 06:48 PM

Sifus..i saw 2 'cracks' on my arowana scale today..near the tail part....is this serious.??...will the scale recover. ...my camera not pro enough...so no point posting...i cant see shit on the picture =s hope sifu can guide guide abit...

the shop that leggedy meantioned name 168 aquarium shop. i used to went there lol.

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Added on March 18, 2012, 1:28 ami have a black patin with me, juz recently the patin about 5 inch eaten my koi fish about 4inch. i was like sweating, after eaten my koi the patin stomach looks very big and get digest for 2 days.

btw leggedy do u often feed your aro with small patin or once awhile ??

This post has been edited by Travies: Mar 18 2012, 01:28 AM

that rm7888 bbmg sold edi...lol..

wat? patin eating a 4inches koi? are u sure bro? any pics of ur patin? i never heard of patin will go eating other fishes of their size..

i feed my aro with patin once in awhile lo..

Must be hungry..lol..the aro sold already?gt meh pple buy rm7888 although not for breeding?

According to the shop owner, that aro has been sold at RM5xxx. True or not, i really dunno. Lol..

Maybe bro..bcoz wen i pick my arowana at the seller last time there's this one aro which caught my eyes..freaking beautiful..d seller tag it at rm 5000..and guest wat..someone already paid for it n is setting up d tank 1st..hmmm....like dat also hv..

My Aro now living with these....

The Stud...



The Female...



The picture taken just after hour's release into the tank... will update once it is more stable

im interested to get a ray as well but how big is the tank suppose to be as i dont think my 4ft x 1.5 ft is big enough for the ray and the aro..and plus what type of filter are you using as i read somewhere that ray bio load is double then the aro so the filter system need to good enough to cover all of the fish..sorry im a noob so banyak tanya sikitla..hehe..

a guide i borrow from other forum

So you're ready for for a stingray. here are a few things you need to know before buying one

Research
Well you are reading this so that is a start, but you also need to read up on them from other sources as well. there are a few good books. "Freshwater Stingrays A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Richard Ross is one, and aqualog has another. Don't just stop at these two as there are more out there. Also the internet is a great place to gather information but verifying this info to be the correct info is that hard part. As some will be conflicting with each other. One of the best sources of information is your fellow ray keepers. Don't be afraid to ask questions as most of us are more than willing to help out to see if a ray is right for you.

Tank Requirements
Now that you have done some research and know a little bit about the ray lets talk about the tanks they need. Stingrays get very big and require a tank with a large foot print. Even the smaller breeds need a large tank, and remember on these a tank with more length and width is more important to height. the smaller breeds (scobina, reticulata, hystrix) require at least a 2'x5' and larger tanks. As they will grow anywhere from
12"-20"

While your mid size breeds (motoro,orbignyi, humerosa, leopoldi, henlei, yepezi) will require a slightly larger tank as they can grow up to 20"-30". So you are going to need a tank with a minimum of 3'x6' to house one for life and a gain the bigger the better.

Now its time to talk about the larger breeds (castexi, Schroederi, Menchacai). these require a very large footprint as they have a bigger disc. They can reach a size of 30"-40" so need at least 4'x8' footprint and like always the bigger the better.

This is just a guide line for the ray housing requirements and their are more species than i listed and also size variations within these. some will get bigger than i stated while others will stay smaller. Males in general stay smaller than the females, so if size is an issue buy a male instead. A rule of thumb i like to follow is if the rays disc and tail can touch both front and back of the tank, its time to upgrade.

Water Quality and Filtration
This is very important when owning a fish of any kind. The number one killer of all fish is ammonia and bad water. As you have read rays get big and they produce a lot of waste. Even when they are pups rays produce a lot of waste you can tell by looking at their poo alone. Much bigger than most other types of fish. So great filtration is a must!

To start out with this a cycled tank is very important. please don't go out and buy a tank and ray the same day. A month or two to have a good cycled tank is a great way to keep a ray alive.

Stingrays are very sensitive to water changes so your filtration needs a lot of bio media and mechanical media to keep the ammonia levels down. Plenty of water changes are also very important in helping your filtration out and providing a good living environment for your ray.

This can be accomplished by multiple cannisters, sumps, HOB's, or OHF's. and even a combination of them all. a good flow rate usually of 6-10x per hour is important to make sure the water is coming into contact with all of the bio media to remove the toxins.

Water volume is also key. A larger water volume you have the better it is for the ray. This helps as having more water it is more forgiving as it also dilutes ammonia and other toxins so this is a must. One of the easiest way to achieve this is by use of a sump. this acts as a great filter and doesn't take up any floor space and it fits under your tank. when buying a sump get the biggest your able to fit under the tank as a rule of thumb.

As far as Ph is concerned i feel that keeping your fish into as close to range as your water you do your water changes with is very important. As rays are sensitive to PH changes and temperature changes. so keeping them both close to your water change water is a good practice.

Also all heaters in the tank need heater guards as rays can burn their disc very easily! sometimes they will burn so bad that it will scar. these can be made or bought and you will be very happy you did it.

Buying A Ray
Now that you know more about rays its time to decide what type and where to buy. So what size tank you have comes into effect here so you want to research the type of ray that can live in your tank for life. Now is another good time to ask your fellow ray keeper's where they purchased their rays at so you have an idea of where to start looking. Be patient and find the ray that you like the most not because someone else said it looked good, but because you think it looks good. Remember this is your ray and your future love

Make sure you are buying from a good source. Most places will allow you to watch the ray eat before buying. So please ask to see this as a healthy ray will eat almost at all times of the day. If the ray does not eat and they say it has just been fed then go back tomorrow and ask to watch again.

Examine the ray closely to make sure it does not have any external parasites or redness. If you see any make sure the owner is aware of this. Most cases they will be aware even if they say they are not. If this is your first ray i would go to the next vendor even if offered a good deal.

Size is important again. Small rays are cheaper in most cases and seem the way to go, but smaller rays are more sensitive to change than the larger rays and sometimes are picky eaters and might not eat at all. So sometimes its best to spend a little extra money and buy a 6" or larger ray as they have lived this long and are eating great. Also ask what the seller feeds the ray and buy some if you don't already have.

Acclimating The Ray
Now that you have purchased your new ray its time to get it in the tank. There are a few methods for this: Now if you bought close to where you live or a few hours away a good method is the "drip method". What you do is put your ray in a bucket if its not already in one. Then you take an airline and create a siphon between your main tank its going in and the bucket. this slowly fills up the bucket and lets the ray get use to your tank water slowly. after your bucket is filled you want to drain it out as much as you can to make it easier to handle. then slowly dump the ray into your tank.

Another way of doing this is taking a cup and you take a cup of water out of the bucket and then you add a cup of your tank water every 5 mins for a half hour to an hour or so.

The other method is best used for when you have your ray shipped and it has been in a bag for 12 hours or more. This is called the squirt and drop method. Since the ray has been in the bag water for so long and is making it slowly toxic you will want to have your chems ready (i use AmQuel). You want something that removes ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine. and as soon as you open the bag you squirt some of this in and then put the ray into your water. while keeping as much of the bag water out.

This keeps the toxic water out of the tank and gets the ray out of the water fast. as floating the bag or raising the temp and opening the bag is actually making it more toxic for the fish so this removes those toxins fast.

Its best to have a quarantine tank for your ray this way you can watch the ray and make sure it doesn't have any parasites or eating problems. Introducing new fish its always better to quarantine for a few weeks so you don't introduce parasites into your main tank

Feeding The Ray
Alright now that your new ray is in your tank its time to feed. A healthy ray will usually eat right out of the bag. Sometimes they are a little stressed and it takes longer though. I usually keep lights off for the ray to settle down for a few days and this helps when feeding.

Hopefully the seller told you what the ray was eating before you bought it so now use that information. Try to stay away from live feeders as they can carry parasites. Feeding a variety of things is good for a healthy ray as it replicates their natural diet. mp, tilapia, pellets, fish fillets, blood worms, black worms, and earth worms are some of the things to start out feeding. see what they take to and feed them what they will eat worry about transferring them onto other foods later. Feed the ray until it stops eating and has a big hump on the back. Then net out the remaining food so it doesn't rot in your tank.

Some rays take time to start eating so don't stress out. Sometimes it even takes up to a week or longer. Just make sure you are doing water changes for pristine water conditions. Also keep the lights off as the ray might be stressed out. and lastly make sure you are offering a variety of foods.

Other Things You Need To Know
Now if you are thinking about adding tank mates to your stingray remember: stingrays are an effective predator. this means whatever will fit into its mouth will end up there in most cases. Also you need to know some tank mates will bite at the rays disc, tail, and eyes. this can stress and even kill your ray. And just because the tank mate worked with someone else's ray doesn't mean its ray safe or that it will work out. So be careful when buying your rays tank mates.

Also medicating a ray. Please make sure you identify before you medicate. Rays are very sensitive to medications so using the wrong type or too much can kill your ray. So make sure you identify the problem if its parasite, fungus, or bacterial. then purchase the ray safe meds to fix the problem.

Asking questions and posting pictures will make this easy to do. So if your unsure ask.

Thank you for taking the time and reading this. hopefully it will help in your future purchase and keeping of these magnificent creatures as they will bring joy to your life and quickly become your favorites. And remember the more you research and know before you buy, the better prepared you will be.

Happy keeping,
Jeffers

thanks for the infor bro..i guess i need to get a bigger tank and sump tank before even considering to get freshwateer ray..hmm..

how much is the white dot ray u having? it is pretty nice. i think it wont be cheap to have it.

price is rm1488 per pair.... but the one left behind is so so only...

nice ray and familiar wit me d ray...nice selection.....and update my pets family red aro

This post has been edited by byakuya8283: Mar 19 2012, 02:32 PM


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bro byakuya8283, how much will cost for red aro now day?
sharing my only aro with all bro here..

nice piece u got there... got any picture on the Pearls/chu

this aro got no pearls..maybe this pic show clearer

mind to share where u got this pcs?

sorry sifu's..need to ask because i am very confused with the term pearl and the term chu..i have done my research and from a newbie point of view chu is the brown/grey colouration on top of the aro but when i ask the shop the other day they say that chu is crossback and crossback is the back part of fin(the top part)gold ring that will grow towards front part of the aro..(huh?seriously im getting more confused)

i was then inform that pearl is located at the back of the body of the aro..near the fin..im not sure..anyone care to pass down some knowledge to me..on..

what is pearl..
what is crossback..
and what is chu..

thanking in advance on whoever that are willing to pass down some knowledge to me..

This post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 20 2012, 10:34 AM

thanks pigpig..but what is pearl...

and crossback means the shining part on top will cross..so the dark part on top will be replaced with the shining part?

chu or pearl are the scale near to the dorsal fin... as for cross back is the 6th level shine scale (which is on top of the body) on an aro... this usually applies to Golden aro....

btw what type of aro did u purchase... if hb than it's really nice.. but if mg/xb then we need to know the chu got full or not

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Added on March 20, 2012, 11:03 amgot it from a trader.... not lfs

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Added on March 20, 2012, 11:05 amthis aro look like cross breed between hb n low grade mg... some would call it quality hb/superhb last time...

This post has been edited by wmkr: Mar 20 2012, 11:05 AM