thinner might crack when been heat up

Ok.. well... I'm off to get some extra strength hair spray now. Gonna save the super glue for last resort.

Got stock. It's gold colour PLA. Special price for you...RM50 only!


Maraudez, 60C is really too low for ABS. May not work even with super glue but worth giving it a try.
Otherwise just print with PLA and be merry

interesting I'll drop you a messages on whatapps later

It's ok... BECAUSE I GOT MY CHIPS TODAY!!!

Just soldered it in and preheating the table, looking good, rising up to 70 degrees already, as long as it stops around 100 I guess it means it worked!

Yes!! The higher temperature seems to be working!! managed to get a nice flat solid 10CM diameter disc printed just now, had been warping like hell previously!

Congrats marauderz!! Now I can direct Up Mini users to you in case they face the same problem.

Something for the week :

Printed on our Prusa i3 at 0.2mm layer resolution. The joints snap fit perfectly well. It is a Tyrannosaurus Jet Fighter. Looks quite crazy with wings, jets and swords on a dinosaur. I like it!





This post has been edited by blomker: Nov 21 2014, 09:34 PM

STL PLS!

Wow, after I disappeared for 2 weeks, then this forum became very lively...

Just to share with you reprappers some videos of my prints at YouTube.





I am in the middle of editing a video of a 3D printed robot I have made for a recent competition and I will try to upload it this weekend.

Also forgot to mention , I will be able to print in Ninjaflex and Flexi filament this early December. Now I am in the process of testing it out on my modded extruder and hotend. The results looks good for now...


This post has been edited by altan: Nov 22 2014, 03:58 AM

All here bro http://www.thingiverse.com/glitchpudding/c...modio-challenge

Hi Altan, Ninjaflex stuff sounds fun. Waiting for mine to arrive next week.
Show us your extruder design for Ninjaflex. I know the material is soft so the filament has to be guided down
the tube all the way else it may end up like this :

Yup, the filament buckles at the drive gear very often when printing really fast, say 30mm/s, for that particular material.

Fortunately my 3D printer extruder has the filament guide raised slightly close to the gear and idler but still buckles even with a gap of 3mm. I am still experimenting with the speed and hotend parameter since its the two main factors for successful prints.

I am planning to design a jig to narrow the gap further to improve feed reliability and hopefully doesn't buckle after hours of printing. I will put up a picture when I get back to my printer next week.

Thanks, it's still warping a little, but I think it could be because the platform levelling got effected a bit when I removed the heat bed. Gonna relevel and try again sometime this week hopefully.

Ok, finally I had the time to recalibrate the platform, and my prints are performing very well, no more platform warping any more, already printing out new corner blocks for the Rep Rap and hope I can get back to it soon!

Nice, if you could, do post some pictures of your prints.

As for me, I have a picture of a bowden extruder for a 50 mm stepper motor that I am working on. I will release the design on thingiverse once fine tuned and adjusted fro a 40 mm stepper motor.

Once I carefully chip away all the support materials let's not be too hasty and snap anything again!

Here's another lesson for people interested with 3D printing, after you get your print, it might be filled with support structures where the holes are.



And you need to take care of them, by digging, cutting, picking, praying you don't damage the actual part, so after one hour these are the results.



Nice looking blocks, a bunch of excess, and one cut in my finger where one of the blocks slipped and a splint sticking out jabbed INTO MY FINGER!!



This post has been edited by marauderz: Nov 30 2014, 01:18 AM

Glad to see you guys are active around here. Anyone knows a local shop that sells GT2 pulleys and belts? KL Selangor area.

Talking about adding supports, my advice to you is to try not to use too much support. From my experience, I have printed models with overhangs and bridges without support whenever possible.Also, if you have access to the design, try to design your parts with minimal overhangs or make the overhang parts bridge as much as possible. To me, its just gets really annoying when you have to cut and scrape out every support attached to some slopes that didn't need to be supported in the first place. Besides, its gets very wasteful after a long period of printing and I would love to reduce wastage as much as possible as the reason is in the picture below.



This is a picture I just took of a bag full of wasted PLA accumulated after 6 months of printing and it consist of brim, supports, and a few failed prints. Its about 650 grams of PLA in that bag, almost 2/3 of a reel gone.


Welcome to the reprap forum izzudinhafiz. You should post a few pictures of your reprap.

Well, I'm still getting the hang of everything, and not even sure about designing my own items yet, so I'm still not too sure about when to use supports and when not to.

Glad to see I'm not the only one storing the cast off and failures.



I'm still on my 1st reel of ABS, haven't been printing much yet since I needed to fix the warping problems, should do much more now.