they are local, why don't you just call them? much faster waiting them replying your email , when I was looking for a printer I did call few of local seller and end up become loyal customer with blomker hehe

I DID! I told them I needed some more pricing details, we chatted through WhatsApp, response was fast, but it's just that I need the final information that isn't arriving.

I wouldn't be surprise if there isn't any after sales service. Besides its reprap and a lot of times these businesses tend to fade away when cheaper and less complicated desktop 3D printers enters the market. I know a guy who was also selling reprap printers on his own as a side job didn't last too long (one or two years if I recalled correctly) due to difficult customers and upkeep with after sales services. After that he completely abandoned the business and went on doing other more lucrative businesses.

The attitude is quite common for part time business because probably the margin is high but sale volume is very low. I have an article here that tells the reason why 3D printer business fail in crowd funding but the concept applied to regular business. The summary of the article is that, to succeed and survive by selling 3D printer, you have to meet the minimum unit sale (in thousands) per year just to pay off all the cost in a year no matter how high is your profit margin.

Well, like I mentioned, I just want to get a basic kit in one go first so I can get familiar with it. Then I'll just order parts from DX, AliExpress, etc. etc. next time.

@DarkTenno how is Blomker?

Oh.. and where DO we find Kapton tape here? I have seen reference to using the 3M Blue Painter's tape which I've seen here before lar.

Anyway, my current UP! Mini's main problem is warping, seems to be because the heated bed is not hot enough, so I'm trying to mod that myself, but I suppose I can try changing the base to Glass + Painter's Tap + UHU Stick and see.

But my soldering skills suck, this is what happened last week when I tried to desolder the UP! Mini's thermostat.

blomker are ok, he usually have stock and fast delivery if he in the country that is , kapton tape there a seller at lelong.com selling them blue painter tape can be found at Ace hardware, If you printing PLA with heatbed just use PVA white glue mixed with water, spread it on the glass bed with bed set to 50-60c is enough to make PLA stick to the glass bed without any problem

PM me for blomker number if you want it , can chat with him at whatapps, check his website first usually he have all the specs listed on the web, FYI he selling

Mendemax 1.5
Prusa i3
Kossel mini

I bought my first printer mendemax 1.5 from him and just got a 2x Prusa i3 kits for a friend of mine joinning us into the 3d printing community

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Nov 7 2014, 12:40 PM

I'm printing ABS, so I'm having to deal with warping right now, somehow I don't think much can be done until I get the heated bed up to a higher temp. Is the glue technic going to help much with ABS?

I'm thinking of the Prusa i3.

I admit, the Kossel interests me just because of how funky it looks But that one is gonna be tougher to setup right?

don't get kossel if you dont want to spend to much time tuning , have you try acetone abs solution? mix some ABS with acetone and spread it on the glass bed, and try to enable brim enclosure for the printer also help keeping the heat up

Brim enclosure? Means enclose the print area? I'm using an Up Mini, it's already enclosed.
http://www.3dprinter.com.my/up-mini-3d-printer

But the acetone abs solution, so.. coat the thing when I want to start printing? Print while it's wet? Wait.. acetone fumes is toxic now isn't it?

abs fume also toxic the acetone will vapor while your bed is heating you do know acetone is actually pure alcohol right? right? , brim is a option in slic3r not sure what program you use to slice so can't really help you there

ABS fumes are still ok it seems
http://www.instructables.com/id/Is-3D-Prin...-for-HCN-from-/

In any case I was finally contacted by 3dprinter.my

They have 2 kits, one has 3d printed X axis and corner mounts, the other has acrylic corner mounts, the difference is about RM1K

Which puts it a little bit out of my budget, so do you guys think it's worth it to have the more rigid corner mount parts?

just get the 3d printed mounts, use your mini UP to print a spare for it if it broke (the benefit of having 2 3d printer ), if you take the acrylic what if that thing broke you have no choice contact them again for replacement and worst case scenario they dont have the part then they recommended you to use a 3d printed replacement part , my prusa i3 all used 3d printer part with Aluminum frame

Yeah, might as well get my hands fully dirty to deal with everything right?

I've pulled the trigger on the i3 already, wish me luck that I have a LESS surprising adventure putting it together than my hack attempt previously!

which one did you get wood or acrylic? btw anyone know where to get acrylic I want to make a enclosure for my delta

I got the Acrylic model, well... the 3dprinter.my guy says he has a laser cut machine, so technically I think if provided the measurements he can make one for you, but I think my brother also found a shop in KL that can make whatever you give them the measurements to.

hey there, I wanted to know something. I got 6 gt2 pulley and around 4meters of gt2 timing belt.. I dont need it.. Bough it for my final year project but dont need it anymore now...any idea where I can sell it? Everything is just 70 rm

depending on your location if nearby me I take it from you pm me

PM'ed you

hi.nearcomer here..which 3d printer is good for a entry user..price and spec please

First you need to realize we're not at the point where it's press print and something magically pops out, here's what could happen after you print something. Skip to 5 minutes for the headache time.