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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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DarkTenno
post Jul 2 2014, 11:41 AM

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nice print, what did you use for slicing? Slic3r? I'm still getting myself familiar with Slic3r the wall thing setting sometime confuse me lol
altan
post Jul 2 2014, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 2 2014, 11:41 AM)
nice print, what did you use for slicing? Slic3r? I'm still getting myself familiar with Slic3r the wall thing setting sometime confuse me lol
*
I am now using Cura 14.06 from ultimaker as my slicer software. Previously using Cura 14.03 and Cura 12 (version 12 su**s). Its easier to use because there is less settings to play with and I get good prints out of my printer.

Slic3r is good in a way that there are more settings to play and fine tune with but their slicing engine is much faster than what Cura can do for large prints. Usually once you get the right parameters, the parameters will apply well for many prints.

Still, its depends on user preference as I will stick to Cura because I am quite lazy at fine tuning slicer parameters and I find it good enough for all my prints. biggrin.gif
julian1106
post Jul 2 2014, 03:32 PM

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Hi kinda needed to 3d print for my project~
where can i get local seller of ninjaFlex or TPE in general. and also softPLA.
ty in advance~ really need to buy it cheap if can rclxms.gif thumbup.gif
altan
post Jul 2 2014, 03:42 PM

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QUOTE(julian1106 @ Jul 2 2014, 03:32 PM)
Hi kinda needed to 3d print for my project~
where can i get local seller of ninjaFlex or TPE in general. and also softPLA.
ty in advance~ really need to buy it cheap if can rclxms.gif  thumbup.gif
*
Ninjaflex or TPU is quite an expensive material right now. The last I check, you can get a 500 gram spool for less than RM 200. I don't know any local vendors that stock this material as it is considered specialized material. Also if you are planning to print using this material on your own, then I wish you good luck. thumbup.gif

julian1106
post Jul 2 2014, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 2 2014, 03:42 PM)
Ninjaflex or TPU is quite an expensive material right now. The last I check, you can get a 500 gram spool for less than RM 200. I don't know any local vendors that stock this material as it is considered specialized material. Also if you are planning to print using this material on your own, then I wish you good luck. thumbup.gif
*
ic~ so where is realiable that i can order this ninjaflex from?
and also how about the softPLA?

yea i'm printing for a project on the material on 3d printer can print~ the printer available is FDM with no heatbed.
So i guess i try using PLA, softPLA, and TPE. currently already using PLA but wanted to try printing softPLA and TPE.
hahaha but i'm still not that knowledgeable about how the 3d printer works actually. rclxub.gif
DarkTenno
post Jul 2 2014, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 2 2014, 03:42 PM)
Ninjaflex or TPU is quite an expensive material right now. The last I check, you can get a 500 gram spool for less than RM 200. I don't know any local vendors that stock this material as it is considered specialized material. Also if you are planning to print using this material on your own, then I wish you good luck. thumbup.gif
*
wow even pricier than nylon smile.gif, I'm use to Slic3rs already and my Slic3rs are already fine tune for my printer I guess sticking with it for while, when to try Skienforge but the configuration are dam confusing and the user interface are stressful at the same time doh.gif
altan
post Jul 2 2014, 05:27 PM

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QUOTE(julian1106 @ Jul 2 2014, 03:51 PM)
ic~ so where is realiable that i can order this ninjaflex from?
and also how about the softPLA?

yea i'm printing for a project on the material on 3d printer can print~ the printer available is FDM with no heatbed.
So i guess i try using PLA, softPLA, and TPE. currently already using PLA but wanted to try printing softPLA and TPE.
hahaha but i'm still not that knowledgeable about how the 3d printer works actually.  rclxub.gif
*
So welcome to the 3D printer discussion. You have to find outside sources for those filaments, I don't recommend Ebay from what @DarkTenno has experience for PLA filaments. The nearest supplier is in Singapore for Ninjaflex, you can try this vendor Meka, just let him know I recommended him to you. As for softPLA, I don't know any vendor nearby that has this material. You could also try contacting a local vendor that sells 3D printer filament for help, if they are willing to do so.

QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 2 2014, 04:01 PM)
wow even pricier than nylon smile.gif, I'm use to Slic3rs already and my Slic3rs are already fine tune for my printer I guess sticking with it for while, when to try Skienforge but the configuration are dam confusing and the user interface are stressful at the same time  doh.gif
*
I know about Skeinforge but never really tried it yet. sweat.gif. Another slicer software you could use but can be a pain is Makerbot Makerware. Although its for makerbot replicator 2 but you can trick the software with proper placement of the object and export it as gcode.

This post has been edited by altan: Jul 2 2014, 05:33 PM
altan
post Jul 2 2014, 11:23 PM

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Oh no, when I came back and take another look at my printer I realize the z-axis cannot go down towards the bed any further than the stock hotend. shocking.gif

Looks like I have to revert back to the UBIS hotend and then spend time designing and printing an adapter for my printer to extend the china hotend further down by 10 mm. rclxub.gif
DarkTenno
post Jul 3 2014, 05:33 AM

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the china hotend is too short? that why I usually don't buy pre-assemble stuff biggrin.gif
julian1106
post Jul 3 2014, 09:58 AM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 2 2014, 05:27 PM)
So welcome to the 3D printer discussion. You have to find outside sources for those filaments, I don't recommend Ebay from what @DarkTenno has experience for PLA filaments. The nearest supplier is in Singapore for Ninjaflex, you can try this vendor Meka, just let him know I recommended him to you. As for softPLA, I don't know any vendor nearby that has this material. You could also try contacting a local vendor that sells 3D printer filament for help, if they are willing to do so.
alright thx 4 d help man~ thumbup.gif i try to finding the softPLA filaments~
DarkTenno
post Jul 3 2014, 10:30 AM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 2 2014, 11:23 PM)
Oh no, when I  came back and take another look at my printer I realize the z-axis cannot go down towards the bed any further than the stock hotend. shocking.gif

Looks like I have to revert back to the UBIS hotend and then spend time designing and printing an adapter for my printer to extend the china hotend further down by 10 mm.  rclxub.gif
*
dude instead of making new mount just raise your heatbed/bed height thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Jul 3 2014, 10:31 AM
altan
post Jul 3 2014, 05:48 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 3 2014, 10:30 AM)
dude instead of making new mount just raise your heatbed/bed height  thumbup.gif
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Good idea but for this particular printer, the bed has GT2 belting mounted across the two ends of the bed, raising it would mean raising the stepper motor, pulley and limit switch. rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by altan: Jul 3 2014, 05:49 PM
DarkTenno
post Jul 3 2014, 07:28 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 3 2014, 05:48 PM)
Good idea but for this particular printer, the bed has GT2 belting mounted across the two ends of the bed, raising it would mean raising the stepper motor, pulley and limit switch.  rclxub.gif
*
well you could always put another plate on top if it just enough space to able to use the hotend smile.gif, as I assuming you only going to test it not permanently use it right?

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Jul 3 2014, 07:28 PM
altan
post Jul 3 2014, 08:07 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 3 2014, 07:28 PM)
well you could always put another plate on top if it just enough space to able to use the hotend smile.gif, as I assuming you only going to test it not permanently use it right?
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True enough nod.gif but I may end up using it for different materials in the long run and as replacement in case my hotend fails, touch wood sweat.gif . About raising the bed, I do need an aluminium plate for the top most layer so the proximity/metal sensor can detect it when it does the auto level bed feature and the Z-axis homing. Before this, I tried sticking a thin sheet of aluminium on a thick perspex plate but for some reason the aluminium sheet isn't really flat at some parts so my first layer prints didn't form properly. I have to consider getting thick and super flat 3 to 4 mm aluminium sheets for this trick to work. By the way, the auto bed feature probes three points and compensate the height throughout the bed based on a flat square.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas. icon_rolleyes.gif I will certainly consider your these ides in some problems I may encounter with this or other printers.
DarkTenno
post Jul 3 2014, 08:11 PM

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maybe you can try those aluminium tape also tape them to an acrylic plate smile.gif, usually ace hardware sell those tape, I have roll used them for RF shield for my amateur radio equipment and rc stuff smile.gif

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Jul 3 2014, 08:12 PM
altan
post Jul 3 2014, 08:58 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 3 2014, 08:11 PM)
maybe you can try those aluminium tape also tape them to an acrylic plate smile.gif, usually ace hardware sell those tape, I have roll used them for RF shield for my amateur radio equipment and rc stuff smile.gif
*
I have seen those aluminum tapes at Ace hardware too. Currently where I am now, there isn't any Ace hardware for miles. I will probably pop into some local hardware store and see if they have any.
altan
post Jul 6 2014, 02:37 AM

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Finally manage to get my clone J-head Hotend to work on the Printrbot. rclxm9.gif I decided to make an adapter that allows me to attach a J-Head to the Printrbot extruder and extend the hotend closer to the bed. You will notice the hotend is much longer than the stock UBIS hotend so now the fan blows at the insulator and not the nozzle end. I notice the 40w heater cartridge is a little too powerful as it overshoots the set temp by about 8% to 10% during warm up.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I manage to print out the 5mm step cube I used for the stock hotend. I realize the nozzle I have set for the step cube in the slicer was for a 0.4 mm nozzle but I manage to print it out with a 0.3 mm nozzle. hmm.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I have also uploaded the design to Thingiverse in case anyone wants a Printrbot J-Head Adaptor.

Now to print more stuff and see when the heater cartridge fails. brows.gif

This post has been edited by altan: Jul 6 2014, 02:47 AM
DarkTenno
post Jul 7 2014, 04:01 PM

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the mount printed with pla? no scare with the heat? biggrin.gif
altan
post Jul 7 2014, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jul 7 2014, 04:01 PM)
the mount printed with pla? no scare with the heat? biggrin.gif
*
Sacred, just keep the fan running to keep it cool. tongue.gif
tribrainz
post Jul 8 2014, 11:16 AM

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hi guys. i still havent got any reply from blomker yet lol. i found this kit, also i3, but using wood instead of alu. can u guys take a look and see?

http://3dprinter.my/abante/3d-printer/repr...usa-i3-full-kit

it says that its SD print ready, which is nice. hope it has monitor too lol

This post has been edited by tribrainz: Jul 8 2014, 11:17 AM

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