same like mine, haha but mine is 2 digit precision usually 0.01-0.04mm

hahaha, how your build? complete already?

Tabao shipping time depend, because i'll request to send to one place then only send back to malaysia.
I plan to buy a capacitative sensor also. We can buy together. The digital caliper, saw a lot with different pricing, any budget in mind?

stainless steal one and maybe around $13 cause i found one at $10 aliexpress that got decent feedback. taobao can shipped to 2 different placed? to your address and mine if we pay both item in 1 transaction

Never try ship different place before. I try to check and see.
Dunno which capacitive sensor to buy.

aluminum bed or glass bed?

Mk3 (alu)+glass

NPN sensor should be ok, it can detect glass or aluminum but a little bit heavier then PNP sensor.

Still waiting for parts to arrived before i can assemble all part for the frame



This post has been edited by Prosperer: Apr 5 2016, 09:49 PM

Not yet, starting to print my parts in PETG. Encountered some issue.

Can tumpang one more ?, I want a digital dial gauge to measure bed flatness.

This post has been edited by Drian: Apr 6 2016, 10:44 AM

Just wanted to write a short review on a PETG Filament I bought from Ali.

Started to transition my prototype@15%infill@PLA parts to PETG@50%infill.
Here are some of my observation:-

-I printed using 245C and 80c bed temperature. No enclosure or cooling fan is required.
-PETG is more stringy than PLA. You get very fine spider web if crossing over another print.
No big deal for 3d printed parts as you can just pull them away but a consideration for things that shows off print details (figurine etc)
-Gloss surface that looks "metallic".. which is pretty nice.
-Slightly more flexible than PLA for the same infill setting.
-Warpage and shrinkage comparable to PLA. (didn't notice any difference in this). Good for big parts.
-Have to print slower. I'm now usually put 70% of my PLA print speed. (PLA print speed 40mm/s outer perimeter, 75mm/s infill)

Conclusion:-

I believe PETG can replace ABS in 95% of all use case. Certain things that ABS still do better, withstand higher temperature (105c glass transition temperature vs 80c for PETG vs 60c for PLA), less stringy for PLA.

In the process of printing this I found some issues with the RAMPS board. Will share in the next post.






This post has been edited by Drian: Apr 6 2016, 11:43 AM

Do you guys shopped your parts at lelong lelong seller seems to overcharge for their product and shipping fee

In the process of printing PETG I had many failed prints, prints would suddenly stop and reset itself, the extruder would suddenly get stuck, stepper motor skipping steps causing alignment issues. I think I lost 250g worth of plastics because of this.



I couldn't understand why because the PLA printed just fine. Spend 5 days troubleshooting and then I thought perhaps the stepper motor driver is overheating because of the extra power from the heated bed and extruder heater block. While trying to touch the stepper motor driver my finger accidentally touched the polyfuse and I realise they were burning hot. My guess around 60c, similar to my PLA heated bed temp.
But fuses are not meant to be hot.

Went around finding the part number for the RAMPS board polyfuse and found 11A polyfuse and 5A polyfuse rated. Immediately I knew this was a bad design, who in the right mind puts in 11A of fuse rating when the bed is around 1ohm and 12V rated which is 12A at normal load. Even at normal usage, the bed can draw up to 13A. The issue was the same for the 5A polyfuse. The fuse also doesn't take into account derating at high temperature.
Also the way polyfuse works is they need high current to trip and if your draw current is neither low enough to keep the polyfuse cool or high enough to trip the fuse, you get into an intermittent stage where your polyfuse acts semi high resistance which burns a lot of power.

I knew that I couldn't be the only one facing this issue, I'm pretty sure someone else also pushed the heated bed and extruder heater near the limit should also face the exact same issue as I have.

True enough, it was a well known issue:-

https://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/2q...n_seconds_do_i/
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,458481,488483



Some even suggested removing the polyfuse and replace it with a short.
http://rigidtalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=...RAMPS_1.4_board

So after soldering a wire across the fuse to short it I no longer have these issues. Just to share.

i modified my ramps aswell. used automobile type fuses instead of polyfuse. same reason as you. shorts are a good quick fix but long term, i dont want to put my thousands of ringgit investment at the mercy of current surges.

short it or use car fuse also can. I not yet having similar issue like you so my ramps is still in its original stat, i only printing with pla and abs, longest printing time i has done is abs with nearly 15hrs with 235C and 110C bed temp and my ramps still working fine and i already use that ramps nearly 2years now

Capacitive NPN sensor. Model number LJC18A3-H-Z/BX one of the best for reprap, about 6mm max detection distance on glass. can we share shipping? I dont know how to search on Taobao. cannot read chinese

https://world.taobao.com/item/26501684201.h...0.iMi2xZ#detail

found that one, but dont know if coorrect or not. cant read

This post has been edited by izzudinhafiz: Apr 6 2016, 05:50 PM

If the model is the same, i think should be ok.
Busy recently, haven't start to buy anything.

Recently the weather is really hot. I couldn't complete some prints due to controller board overheating. The board resets and interrupted the serial comms. I have to point a 80 mm fan on the processor and keep the room fan running 24hr. So many wasted prints.


Longest single print for me is 40 hr+ and guess what it is.



Recently really busy due to rushed printing...