i'll buy from here, the price slight higher but their rating higher https://world.taobao.com/item/41898224581.h...0.JcGbmo#detail Who else want to buy together just let me know. Since we buy together, i'll arrange ship to my place first only arrange to collect/postage.
i'll buy from here, the price slight higher but their rating higher https://world.taobao.com/item/41898224581.h...0.JcGbmo#detail Who else want to buy together just let me know. Since we buy together, i'll arrange ship to my place first only arrange to collect/postage.
I wanna buy one too. I'll PM u my personal number. can whatsapp me to discuss?
short it or use car fuse also can. I not yet having similar issue like you so my ramps is still in its original stat, i only printing with pla and abs, longest printing time i has done is abs with nearly 15hrs with 235C and 110C bed temp and my ramps still working fine and i already use that ramps nearly 2years now
Not yet, im still waiting for the bushing to arrived, complete the xy axis first before continue to z axis. Complete your build already? show us more video of your build i really like the hiwin rail but unfortunately i cant afford it yet for my printer
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(VinluV @ Apr 17 2016, 10:07 AM)
Anyone knows a good printer where i can just bring an OBJ file and get a 3d object printed?
Planning to print nefertiti bust.
You can PM me for 3D printing services.
Basically you will need to convert your models to .stl file format for any 3D printing service or 3D printer. I can work with .obj but eventually I will convert it to .stl.
Basically you will need to convert your models to .stl file format for any 3D printing service or 3D printer. I can work with .obj but eventually I will convert it to .stl.
Thanks. I'll try to get the stl in that case. May i know how much you charge?
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(VinluV @ Apr 17 2016, 05:24 PM)
Thanks. I'll try to get the stl in that case. May i know how much you charge?
You can provide me with the .obj file directly. Do consider the printer limitation, like build size and materials. I can print up to 14 x 14 x 14 cm volume.
You can see check out my signature below for the rates but basically it's around RM 0.8 per gram high (0.1mm ) layer resolution.
Not yet, im still waiting for the bushing to arrived, complete the xy axis first before continue to z axis. Complete your build already? show us more video of your build i really like the hiwin rail but unfortunately i cant afford it yet for my printer
Not yet finish. All the frame , z axis, limit switch done pending extruder section now. I notice my z bed design which is similar to ultimaker 2 is a little bit springy, so i was wondering how is your design like ? 1 lead screw , two rods or two rods and two lead screw?
Not yet finish. All the frame , z axis, limit switch done pending extruder section now. I notice my z bed design which is similar to ultimaker 2 is a little bit springy, so i was wondering how is your design like ? 1 lead screw , two rods or two rods and two lead screw? Will post a video soon
Hihihihi, i also still research which z axis style i should copy, if i go with 200x200x200 then 1 lead screw should be fine i think bigger then that maybe i should use 2nd leadscrew and 4 rods, i hope next week i can received the bushing and complete my xy axis
Z axis and Limit switches done. One more extruder carriage and will be able to print the first print.
The cantilevered bed platform is slightly springy at the end. Will see whether I need to add more lead screw at both sides to keep it solid. I wonder if the ultimaker2 has the same problem.
On the side note , the combination of linear rails, motor dampers, and the DRV8835 really makes the whole setup quiet. The fan noise and even the limit switch clicking sound is noiser than the stepper motors. The Z axis integrated leadcrew/stepper motor really ensures that the lead screw stays exactly 90 degrees/ 0 wobble and very very smooth compared to my prusa.
This post has been edited by Drian: Apr 18 2016, 10:07 AM
Z axis and Limit switches done. One more extruder carriage and will be able to print the first print.
The cantilevered bed platform is slightly springy at the end. Will see whether I need to add more lead screw at both sides to keep it solid. I wonder if the ultimaker2 has the same problem.
On the side note , the combination of linear rails, motor dampers, and the DRV8835 really makes the whole setup quiet. The fan noise and even the limit switch clicking sound is noiser than the stepper motors. The Z axis integrated leadcrew/stepper motor really ensures that the lead screw stays exactly 90 degrees/ 0 wobble and very very smooth compared to my prusa.
nice i think most cantilevered bed design has that springy at opposite of the rods and lead screw, ask altan, he got Replicator clone aka CLONER, whether the cloner got the same springy bed at the end or not
This post has been edited by Prosperer: Apr 18 2016, 02:59 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(Prosperer @ Apr 18 2016, 02:57 PM)
nice i think most cantilevered bed design has that springy at opposite of the rods and lead screw, ask altan, he got Replicator clone aka CLONER, whether the cloner got the same springy bed at the end or not
Mine is with wood frames. It isn't springy at the ends. What I notice Prosperer had in the test print video was the Z-axis platform was attached to the vertical rails with a pair of stepper motor brackets. The brackets are made form either steel or iron so that may have contributed to the springiness perhaps.
Mine is with wood frames. It isn't springy at the ends. What I notice Prosperer had in the test print video was the Z-axis platform was attached to the vertical rails with a pair of stepper motor brackets. The brackets are made form either steel or iron so that may have contributed to the springiness perhaps.
it possible also, wait for Drian and see is it the source or not
I recall both of you are working on corexy... got confused
Yup it's a nema 17 motor holder. I used this because it is extremely stiff, and I wasn't comfortable with using plastic L bracket for the cantilevered bed.
Will see how the first print goes and see whether I need to add two more lead screw to support the ends
This post has been edited by Drian: Apr 19 2016, 12:19 PM
Created Solidworks part files for the Prusa i3. PM me if you need them They're not STLs tho, but editable solidworks file. so if you have solidworks and know how to use em, it makes life alot easier. I'll upload a zipfile when im 100% finished. Trying to model springs and belts.
Joined: Sep 2009
From: Either PJ, JB or SG but not at your house!
QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Apr 21 2016, 11:04 PM)
Created Solidworks part files for the Prusa i3. PM me if you need them They're not STLs tho, but editable solidworks file. so if you have solidworks and know how to use em, it makes life alot easier. I'll upload a zipfile when im 100% finished. Trying to model springs and belts.