hmm, i am going to buy a hybrid bike(low profile tires)... either kona dr dew 2012 or dew deluxe 2012. Need some advice from u guys or recommend me other bikes

This post has been edited by dog999: Apr 18 2012, 04:21 PM

training actually consists a combination of both intensity and base training...

base \ conditional training or what you called long rides helps to build up your base endurance level... base rides need not be explosive bursts made up of intervals but concentrating more on riding 15-25% below your maximum for as long as possible... this is done to let your muscles get accustomed to the level of intensity that you will have to be doing for competition... of course the closer you can get to your maximum would be better but you have to plan your efforts base on power vs duration...

athletes who train daily will also use base rides to let their muscles recover from intensive sessions and rebuild themselves to endure more...

intervals or intensity ride on the other hand is used to build power output where you try to ride explosively 100% or beyond in a very short duration repeatedly with rest in between each interval... it can be a repeated short uphill sprint or even a stretch of 3-5KM flats at maximum heart rate repeatedly... it all depends on what you are competing as...

usually people with power measurements will tell you things like they are capable of 350W for a duration of 30 minutes, but usually that is a bike race where they launch attacks during the last stint of the race... as endurance events mostly places the bike segment in the middle, you will have to stagger your efforts over the duration of the distance and take into account your running stint...

so, you will actually have to find a balance between both base and intensity in your training plans... as every rider has different training goals, the plan varies accordingly... for instance, if you lack power in the beginning... the ratio might be close to 1 intensive ride to 2 base ride days and progressively decrease intensity training or mix them into your base rides as you build up towards your target...



are you looking at budget or anything goes?

budget, polygon also has flatbar bikes... but usually, without disc brakes if i am not wrong...

back to back cycling on ch814 enjoying it after a day of hardwork~

I kinda realized something in the past 2 weeks. The last few months I've been working on my stamina, as well as increasing my cadence till I can do about 110-115 over long distances. Had been gradually lowering my gears during the time I work my cadence up. Then 2 weeks ago, I thought to try combining power with high cadence, and I find that I'm able to maintain about 33km/h to 35km/h on flats now. Able to hit like 38km/h or so without sprinting, although not able to maintain that pace for very long, but don't feel as tired after as compared to after a sprint.

Found it easier to increase my speed after I've increased my cadence and stamina first.

tadah...the new red 2013...



new 5 spider crank arm


new yaw adjusted FD with chain catcher


the new lever shape that i don't like


aerolink brakes... so expensive...


the new lighter and mightier cassette


pardon my lousy kamel... can't really see the back of the cassette...


This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 19 2012, 01:00 PM

me new kinlin rims...xr270 and xr300...


superlight hubs... weighs in less than 300 grams... quite a lot of engagement points too... noisy but not too noisy little bugger...


stored up jizzm?


green puke? no, actually it is nipple cream...


and tis Mista is gonna teach you how to use it

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to cure the eyesore which i have caused you, i reward you with the chick of the day.. imagine her riding your bike... mmmmmhhhhhhmmmmmmmm

Whoah nose bleeding,

Jst wanna check with u guys, cause i dun have a meter with cadence,
If I'm running on 53/39 (high gear) normal chain set which gearing at the rear should I use to achieve a cadence of ard 80 - 90 rpm at the speed of ard 30 - 33km/h...
Feels like I'm spinning to fast at some gears to maintain tat speed...

This post has been edited by gsrturbo: Apr 19 2012, 01:48 PM

sorry dun like da chick boob too huge

just to lay it straight...i didn't say it's huge... and evidently she knows it is not huge too... which explains why she is squeezing them inwards with both her arms...

anyways, why want to big... bigger is not always better in this case...

---

Added on April 19, 2012, 2:14 pmehrr... from the red 2013 or the nipple rubbing old dude or the pretty chick?

for cadence calculation... you can try this 2 sites...

this makes you enter all your cogs tooth count on your cassette... good to find out the entire range but troublesome to dig up cassette infor...
http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm

this gives you the cadence calculation for a particular cog and chainring... this site doesn't allow you to specify tyre width... but should be very minor off only without that info...
http://www.velominati.com/about/cadence-calculator/

without knowing what cassette you use....
a 53 x 17 or 18 at the back should be right around 80-85rpm, 19t would go up to 90rpm....

to keep cadence of this speed... it is important that you know that you are still applying adequate power down to the pedal spindle... once you get this fast, it is very easy overlook that there is no load to the spindle as the wheels are spinning faster than your legs can turn the crank, then it becomes pointless as you are jus spinning freely without having applied force to launch the bike forwards... a very evident thing at this point is that your ride mates will notice that you are bobbing up and down on your saddle...


This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 19 2012, 02:14 PM

Nose bleed because of the chick and the SRAM red grouppo....

Butthead,
how light do you reckon your new wheels will be once fully set up?

i've already built it up but i didn't went and weight it as it wasn't too important to me... reliability is hence the 24F/28R configuration...

on paper specs, my calculation based on the Superlight F & R hubs, Kinlin XR270 front and XR300 rear with Sapim CX-Rays weight in under 1550grams... my guess is that it weighs in under 1600grams as the spokes lengths re longer than the one manufacturer use for weighing...



i should've went for spokes 2mm shorter as some of the spokes are tensioned until it reached the top of the nipple... hope it does not elongate further or i'd be screwed...

pretty lightweight...congrats on yr purchase..

hello everyone... anyone here into bmx?

butthead..interesting..is that a custom made wheels? How to make one myself?

the cobra is screwed

who's gonna reject 8 million euros in salary eh?

you don't need to pro level bike to be winning races

such brutal portrayal of his bike... and i quote

wince at the sight of this, bike geeks...


BIKE DETAILS*
Frameset: 2007 Giant TCR Alliance T-Mobile Edition1
Fork: re-stickered Argon 18 carbon monocoque fork2, must be joke of the day and a disgraced Giant rep or whoever loaned him the bike.
Groupset: Shimano 105 5500, with external shifter cables
Wheels: Shimano Ultegra RS80 (CFRP/aluminum)3
Tyres: Continental Grand Prix 4-Season with Vectran4

look at the rider who crossed the line with him, ksyrium elites and campy equipped... hope he didn't wheelsuck all the way up the climb, at least he gave joel the liberty of collecting the win...


the overall winner (who crossed the line with joel, pict on top) must be badly mindfark'ed... bet he will break into tears after seeing this article...


Joel Calderon completes historic ride

historic alright... i will never be able to forget this line from the article...

and i thought only tour winners split their 400,000 euros with their 8 team members... 100,000 Philippines peso is less than RM8k, barely enough to buy him a entry level carbon bike... and he has to split it...



i am going to go cry in shame now...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 20 2012, 11:14 AM

2 months of sweat and worry that the parts are ordered wrongly... and i haven't put in more than 2 pedal strokes since the wheel is mounted...

if it doesn't crumble in 6 months, congratulate me then

unfortunately, i don't think so... we still can learn from you... cycling covers very wide scope... maybe we'd be doing some bar spin or tail whipwith you sometime soon..

i don't exactly build them myself... i did lace them up and have the bike shop true them up for me... bet they must be cursing me for the lousy lacing job

i ordered the build kit off the net... not really what most people want nowadays... they want readily made wheels which are pretty and this don't exactly justify that for the price i paid...

This post has been edited by butthead: Apr 20 2012, 11:06 AM

butthead, did the customs charge you tax or anything extra?

i was lucky as they did not charge me for anything... and they did declare the amount on the shipping details...

it flown in via USPS and delivered here using poslaju... it landed the morning the day before they delivered, cleared customs by mid-day and was out to be delivered to my place by morning the next....

Anyone here owns scott speedster s30? Do u think 52cm frame is too big for a 171cm guy? :/

kindredd owns a speedster s40, you can ask him about his height and frame size...

i usually don't think it is a good practice to choose frame size based on height...

there are 3 factors that affects a frame..

1) inseam - controls the length between your saddle and fully extended crank arm (6 o'clock position), but seat posts can be adjusted and seat post length is very long nowadays... so, not too important and quite an invalid thing...

2) torso length - controls your handlebar reach, in other words effective top tube length, also can be adjusted with stem but better to get the correct size since lengthening or shortening the stem can affect the handling characteristics of the bike...

3) your flexibility - this is a question only you will know, as the frame geometries can be classified into 2 main ones... race and endurace / comfort / what the guai los call "sportive"... generally race geometries offer a shorter head tube length and gives you more handlebar drop from your saddle... this requires you to have good flexibility as it will strain your back... endurance geometries usually have a more longer head tube so you site more upright for long distances... each to their own advantage...

so, 1 frame size might work for a 171cm guy but not another 171cm guy as both of you have differences in your anatomy...

nowadays, some people like to adopt the "pro" look which causes them to buy frames slightly or 2 sizes smaller than what they should buy to adopt that look... as they say, never try to imitate... if you can do it, you will do it without problems... else, you suffer for it...

i am confusing you further, ain't i