caad10! sweet!

depends on individual i think. my cadence sensor just lie in store room, not using it. additional sensor on my bike is just too messy. what's important to me is just speed and HRM. cadence just comes naturally

why need to justify the upgrades? why so serious? hmm....

Rule #4 - http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

if the time comes to replace my wheelset, gonna go with mavic cxp33 + sapim cx-ray and shimano DA hubs. ok ka?

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 04:18 PM

u want complete, get powermeter

what i'm trying to say is, if one has $ and not a constraint to him, by all means if want to upgrade, go ahead. there's no need to reach certain level or achievement to justify the upgrades or purchase.

upgrading and purchasing beyond one's financial means is just plain unwise.

i encourage my friends to upgrade all the time. maybe if got lucky, they would sell their used stuff at lower price.

true, it's an overkill for us mortals. HRM + speed should be enough. cadence/spinning at a comfortable rate, monitored by HRM. get a garmin edge 500; cadence + speed sensor built-in together, and comes with HRM.

++++++++++++

just for fun

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/6...favorite-thread

try "Chick in flip-flops riding a Cervelo" and "I am sorry I have to drop you because you look like Lance"

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 05:56 PM

ok got your point. i agree! let's toast to that, and let the suffering begins! cheap stuff, expensive stuff, when the gradient goes up, the legs still scream.

btw, if u make impossibleisnull fella as your example, then your argument is void. because he is not human.

sapim/aerolite hard to find huh? darn it. i want to try to break free from mass produced wheels. my fulcrum racing 1 rim got dented a bit and trying to get a replacement is such a pain.

my idea is to build a wheelset at par with racing 0 or ksyrium sl, fast enough for racing (not that i race), and durable enough for training.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 06:15 PM

haha.. inhuman tolerance indeed... running from bt18 to kuala klawang and back, is just plain insane! haha

what would you do with that extra spokes? so for us in malaysia, better to go with factory made wheels?

i don't think edge 500 has mapping/route capability like edge 800.

get edge 800 if want that feature. but if you ride in a group you don't really need this feature. and once you are familiar with that route, then mapping feature is no longer needed. BUT, the downside is, baddies might mistaken edge 800 for a phone and might attract robbers. edge 800 size is similar to a mobile phone

ok, do keep us updated once you receive your wheels. you bought loose parts, or complete wheels? if complete wheels, what about Customs?

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 06:41 PM

they'll impose tax if the value is more than rm500
value of goods + shipping = must be lower than rm500 to avoid tax

i would go with edge 500 too, with HRM. but my fulcrum racing 1 spoke width doesn't allow me to place the spoke magnet close to spoke nipple, so edge 500 sensor becomes useless.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 06:54 PM

read here

http://www.customs.gov.my/index.php/bm/pro...ysia-berhad-pmb

RM500 (CIF) and above need to declare

just tried building a set at prowheelbuilder. kinlin xr300 + white industries H2/H3 hubs + sapim cxray 20/24 + skewers, 1474g usd700. woohoo!

butthead, the rox's HRM ok ka? as good as polar's?

man! that's gotta hurt. how did the wobble happen? did you hit some gravels?

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 10:41 PM

u think can get these stuff in malaysia ah?

another setup, replace kinlin with HED C2, 1441g, usd840. if use american classic hubs, i think can go sub 1.4kg

current CXP is 23mm wide? didn't know that

velocity A23 rims + american classic hubs + sapim cxray 20/24 + skewers. 1320g usd695.

dream on......

so jealous, singapore got many wheelbuilders and wide range of parts to choose from.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 8 2012, 12:37 AM

at least get a pair or cycling shoes and clipless pedals. seriously. they help you to train better and pedal more efficiently.
or put them as the next purchase

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 8 2012, 01:25 AM

i think depends on the bike. most likely 34.9.
but pronghorn's seatpost 31.6 but still use 34.9 clamp. again, depends on the bike.

read here: http://forums.mtbr.com/beginners-corner/wh...9mm-442951.html

green lane!

saddlebag, pro or not pro??



a deviation from The Rules #29

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 8 2012, 01:24 PM

too lazy to quote previous posts, but i would like to share my experience on some equipments mentioned in this thread, some equipments i had used before

cateye LD-601 (the 5 led blinker)
its flextight mounting bracket was chunky. when mounted on the seatpost, it got in the way of my thighs. i found similar comments made by others on the internet. very bright though.

elite sior race bottle cage
attractively priced, held the bottle firmly. bottle went in easily, but tough went u want to remove the bottle. on the bike, it was like fighting for the bottle.

polar CS200cad
setting it up the first time was very difficult. very sensitive with distance between head unit and the sensors. although i had set it up according to the manual, the head unit didn't pick up any signal. brought the sensor closer, it picked up the signal, but lost it at speeds lower than 10kmh and higher than 35kmh. had to bring the sensor even closer, about half the distance specified in the manual. polar customer service also said that carbon frame/fork may dampen the signal

fake knog blinker
drains battery (CR2032) really fast. failed to work properly after i had the batteries replaced.

kcnc ti pro lite seatpost
the rail clamps were wide, and had sharp edges. snagged a bit of my bib shorts and damaged it. it was demarchi shorts

topeak joe blow sport floor pump (with twinhead)
the pump was robust, no problem. but the twinhead was rubbish. used it less than a year and then it failed on me. other users had similar problem, if you read reviews on the internet. i know a friend who used it about 6 months and it failed. a guy at rodalink said the same thing; a lot of complaints from customers about the twinhead failure.

michelin prorace2 clincher tyre
a race tyre, but really durable. used it more than a year, only punctured once. and that was the rear tyre. the point is, not all race tyres compromise durability. you can have almost everything, at a price though. not sure about prorace4. bought the prorace2 back when cycling stuff weren't too expensive. prorace2 was only rm110. original jerseys were only rm150.

kenda rm55 training tyre
pure crap. same tire, one single ride, punctured twice. 2nd puncture tore the tyre, had to pad it with powerbar plastic wrapper temporarily until i could reach the parking lot. excellent grip though.

panaracer stradius sport tyre
putting it on the rim was super difficult. puncture resistance so-so la, high mileage.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 9 2012, 10:24 AM

i have oakley radar (with hydrophobic lens), rudy project wizaard, and scott sniper.

of all three, i love oakleys the most.

the radar has the best clarity and fits my face perfectly. it even enhances the contrast under shaded area.

wizaard, sniper, nope.. under shaded area, just have to remove the shades. can't see clearly.

the radar fogs up a bit when i stop moving. the scoot sniper fogs up pretty bad. the wizaard never has never had that problem.

oakleys are expensive, more than rudy projects. rudy projects make high quality shades too, but whatever brand you want to get, try them on first. no matter how expensive or how high tech, if it doesn't fit, then it's useless.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 10 2012, 09:17 PM