oh damn.. I suddenly had the image of a cyclist taped up head to toe in that tape flash across my mind

actually detonators are not too bad... i use them too and i think they are more prone to pinch flats than punctures... my tyres outer case is full of cuts and i seldom get punctures due to debris...

i get more pinch flats from hitting pot holes than i get debris punctures and i think that is due to the casing of the tyre being a tad harder than the more supple ones...

generally lower TPI count is better for penetration punctures as thicker threads are used to weave the tyre casing... while high TPI count makes a supple and light pair of rubber... it is also prone to puncture as the threads are very fine and the weave netting allows for the debris to puncture through easier...

alternatives would be trying some of the specialized armadillos... i don't think GH has them... but they are expensive to start with...

detonators in my opinion is a value for money tyre... for my weight, i think the Conti Ultra Sport 120tpi ones are not bad as well although pricier...

imagine trying to put a nail through a burlap cloth and a piece of fine silk...

the higher pressure the faster it escapes... you realize down to a certain pressure... the level of pressure reduction reduces...

hmm.. the Conti Ultra Sport looks nice, but pity no 26" or at least none that I can see on their website

oh... sorry.. thought was referring to 700c tyres...

If you pump your tires every week, than its kinda the same for me too.

Really loves the joke about the detonators. Hilarious!!!!!!! well, It is like that. When its a good month, its puncture free. when its a bad month (mine was last month) i got 5 punctures. NO JOKE!

Well, i'm still looking for 2.0 road wheels. Seems hard to find a pair.

I started slowly on the roller now. I had few questions actually.


-When i was sitting on the saddle, my leg are unable to touch the ground (quite large margin) with my leg strech to the max even when wearing my cycling shoes. Is this normal or they person set the seat post to high? If i lean one side at this position i will be in unstable position and drop down.

-Whne stopping on the traffic light, do you guys sit on the saddle while leaning one side while waiting for the traffic light to go green or u guys stand in front of the top tube.

I just wanna know if this is normal on road bike or the bike shop stuff it out which i doubt so since they are quite well verse in what that do, even usual a laser thing to do the bike fit.

What ya u guys think about it? Still not used to the seat pos that high.

This post has been edited by minizian: Mar 27 2012, 04:48 PM

- This is what I learned about saddle height setting:



To find seat height, place your heels on the pedals and pedal backwards. You’ve found the optimum seat height when your legs are completely extended at the bottoms of the pedal strokes with your heels on the pedals (photo A). Have your helper watch for rocking hips, the sign that the seat is too high. Now, when you’re actually pedaling, you’ll have the perfect bend in your knees (photo B).

Source

So if sitting on the saddle, indeed the legs can not touch the ground...

- When stopping, I usually stand in front of top tube..

if on roller, normal la kaki tak sampai tanah.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 27 2012, 05:02 PM

This is exactly what the bike shop did. He increase the seat hight on my bike so that it was like similar to what the pic does.... At least i no need to worry the lbs stuff up the whole fitting process..

Now is getting used to standin at front tube while at traffic light

This post has been edited by minizian: Mar 27 2012, 05:07 PM

There is a Kenda Kwik Roller which is available in 26 x 2.0
http://www.kendausa.com/en/home/bicycle/co...ller-sport.aspx

Panaracer Ribmo PT
http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php

Schwalbe
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/ro...n_dureme_tandem

Michelin Pilot Sport
http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/micheli...pilotsport.view

Conti Comfort Contact, 26 x 2.1
http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/...contact_en.html

The last 2 have exact model names in car tyres

Not hard to find, just hard to get. You might have to source it off the net if it is not back orderable here.

Here is an example off ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/2-x-Schwalbe-Ko...=item3372dac9d0

5 punctures is what i call wrong timing, not bad tyre as it can happen to any tyres. I had a friend who suffered 6 punctures in 1 long ride, exhausted everyone's spare tubes on that occasion

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Added on March 27, 2012, 6:01 pm- usually no unless you have very long legs, just lean on one side when stopped...
- usually sit on the saddle if it's a long wait... try to track stand if i think it's only 10-15 seconds away from turning green, you can even balance your bike jus by balancing the weight by steering the handlebar left and right while seated....

normally, there is no right or wrong or too low about saddle height.... there is however too high a saddle which causes hips rocking and full leg extension which is bad for knee joint as you put it into a locking position (mainly for dealing with forces when standing) and then out of it again, increase wear and tear on knees...

then there is the question of saddle to handle bar drop.. for example if you look at levi leipheimer, he rides quite low compared to most other pros for the reasons that he don't like a huge bar drop and something about a bad back as i read....

so the relation between height of the saddle and handlebar drop is a question of concern or rather you have to find the right balance... if you don't like a handlebar that is too low, you have to drop the saddle a bit or, get a new frame with bigger head tube length... or you can go the spacer route assuming you haven't saw the steerer off...

nowadays... bike fitting utilizes video cam capture and software to calculate and track movements... that way they say is more accurate and can pin point all the movements in your pedal stroke up to hip and arm flex angles and movements...

here is one fit session done by nick flyger, previously a columnist for cycling malaysia and is the senior biomechanist for the malaysian national teams...

i think the knee angle with leg extended to BDC, 6'oclock is optimally 15 degress.. or somewhere i read about it...


with biomechanics in mind, you can see they not only track knee and leg extension... they also see the angle you lift heel up during the downstroke and the angle of your feet and pedal interface...


whether it is for optimal power transfer or reducing joint wear... this sort of service is worth paying...

http://triathletesofian.blogspot.com/2009/...ng-by-nick.html

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Added on March 27, 2012, 6:13 pmdangerous wei if kaki can sampai tanah... after your feet become fettucine kena rolled through the rollers...

i wonder if it is a danger with kids around the house... after you pedal pedal like those japanese kamikaze track team and your daughter go and stick her hand in... i guarantee you as a father will shit bricks if that happens...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 27 2012, 06:13 PM

well, I stand on both legs with the TT below my crotch. Have to be stable. and safe at the same time. At the traffic lights, its not a race.

Alright. Thanks for the heads up. Seems like there are a lot of choices to choose from.

MY drop bar is very low now.. kinda putting a lot of strain on my hands now.. seems to get numb very fast.. and forcing a lower position, it is also putting a lot of pressure on my " "..

it makes my legs less tired, but my back and hands more tired now..

I did tried to unlcok both of the clip when on total stop. It just so hard for me to unlock/lock into clip when standing from top tube.. Maybe i was not that good enoug yet

use the hoods more and ignore the drops... unless you want to go fast on flatter runs...

that, or raise the handlebars with more spacers assuming you have steerer tube for your stem to move up...

you can stand on the pedal unclipped? usually the base of cycling shoes are slipper and should make it hard to stand let alone trying to balance yourself on the bike...

why do u need to unclip both pedals? one is enough, another one just standby.

yeah butthead, scary when imagine what can happen if toddlers get near to a spinning wheel. bladed spoke!

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 27 2012, 11:52 PM

Bzzt... that watermark is by lowyat.net

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Added on March 28, 2012, 8:13 amIt is for reflective purpose, to be sticked to a bike surface for safety purpose at night specifically.

This post has been edited by henleong: Mar 28 2012, 08:16 AM

sharing is caring. gonna get myself a FR0 dark lable soon owh btw, price for 2-way fit and normal clincher is the same. difference in weight is around 30grams only. would you choose a 2way fit (just for the sake of trying tubeless sometimes) or just get the normal clincher and get the 30grams of weight saving?





This post has been edited by mrjgx: Mar 28 2012, 08:09 PM

I have been a silent reader all this while and decided to take up road cycling Anyway I have narrow down to two choices which makes up of budget below 2k.

1. Polygon Helios 200 1.8k+ http://www.polygonbikes.com/index.php?pgid...keid=366&par=11

2. Merida Road Race 880-16 1.9k+ http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/20...oad/Race+880-16


Would like to get opinion from you guys here which one of these I should get

Since the first puncture I replaced the inner tube, I felt the ride is kinda heavier...

Original inner tube is "Cheng Shin 700X 18/25C Thin" weighted 76gram.

New tube is "Continental Race 28 700X 18/25C 60mm presta" weight 106gram.

Being new to cycling, any idea what is a good brand/model for a good, light inner tube?

same price izzit? last time i checked, different price. anyway, i would get the normal type.


polygon

try maxxis

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 29 2012, 08:48 AM