speedworks mahal la... i kinda need a custom job.. coz of my intake setup... speedworks one usually whole kit with the K&N and rampipe etc

It wpuld be interesting to note that i datalogged intake air temperature (IAT) on my hondata before. At high speeds, having or not having a heat shield is unimportant. If ambient temp is high, thats the lowest it will go. Its primarily for slow speeds or cars with full diffuser at bottom of chassis. If open like our eg. No difference.

I think length more important. Thats why i'm doing custom length for mine. 22" according to maf sensor testing (own method)

if still want, try velocity fabrication at sunway. They make anything

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 11 2012, 10:53 PM

Viewed an EF9 today, are all EF9s equipped with sunroof?

Sunroof/moonroof option. I don't really like moonroof or sunroof, it's an extra spot for leaks.

interesting...but one thing im not liking is that the radiator fan is blowing hot air right into my filter/filter area...

22" will mean the filter is still in the bay or r u gonna bring it down into the wheel well behind the bumper?

velocity fabrication eh... never heard of them..will check them out. do provide any link if u can.


as mentioned...its an optional item when buying the car new....better check with the owner about documentation...coz if ur installing a sunroof, it might require JPJ approval...i say might bcoz lately there was a letter going around saying no need already...

even though my car has a sunroof, i oso would prefer without... extra spot for leaks... and theyre also heavy.

hell guys, im gonna get ek b16a, hehe, hope i will have alot of fun in this car, want to play with the big boyss noww

http://www.honda.com.my/model/overview/civic/

http://www.mudah.my/Honda+Civic+Ef+EF9+ori+-16540695.htm

Any take on this? Comments? Ahah

saw that ad before... and i very very very the like wat im read...expect around 210-220whp on the dynojet...could be higher if the block is resleeved and bored to about 84+




n somehow my bekside very the itchy lately.. thinking of selling off my hatch and getting a bone stock 4-door EK (mebbe EG) and kasi bikin projek.. hahahhaha

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 12 2012, 03:32 PM

Velocity fabrication is quite new (relatively la) they got cnc mill, and they open quite late into the evening. First time I went there to weld my exhaust, and I arrived late, they were the only one open till past 6pm.

Got a lot of custom fabrication parts they make, like lower control arms, but for load bearing components, I don't trust billet stuff that much.

You can ask around sunway, I forgot what road they're on. lol. I drove around and found it still open.

22" still in engine bay. I'm using Accord's OEM pipe at the moment, but going to fab a custom bend one so it looks neater. Daily driver, don't do the AEM long intake style. Sure one of these days kena hydrolock. The AEM intake got optional part called bypass valve to prevent hydrolock. A lot of people don't buy that part, but if kena water puddle, sure fakap one.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 12 2012, 04:19 PM

yeah i know about the bypass valve.. even did abit of research into it to see if i can make a DIY one.. possible to do..but abit the leceh so dropped it..hahahah

n the whole AEM CAI inclusive bypass aint cheap.. about 1.4k iirc.. friend ordered it.. n i think he might be considering selling it off since he went with SRI and velocity stack.



man i havent seen my car since saturday...dunno siap already or not or if they didnt even touch it at all.. haih....i miss Banshee...

whatt projek u going to do hheh

dunno la... mebbe just stick to my current hatch... wanna jual oso manyak sayang man...

Keep the hatch, buy eg/ek 4 doors.
Plonk in B20B stock standard, run single layer gasket for 9.5-10CR. Maintain auto transmission (obvious reasons, daily driver mah). If got extra money, get crome and tune the low end for some serious torque. Sure fun one. of course, kena makan when vtek kicked in yo from other hondas, but that 60 foot launch, you will RULE!

As your parts wear out on the hatchback, buy new and pass the old ones to the EK/EG sedan.

Two cars without all the headache of maintanance.

I would have bought a hatch if not for the fact that most eg hatch all fakap already and the price to buy one is $$$$$.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 12 2012, 05:41 PM

kinda have to sell the hatch to get a 4 door...

plan was to get a cheap ass 4 door and K20 the sucker... but....but... sayang la my hatch..hahhahaha



i wonder what a 4 EG/EK would behave like in track though...

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 12 2012, 05:49 PM

Kinda fun. the long wheelbase makes the steering turn in a little slow (need to plan early). The rear end stock is stiffer than hatch because it has that bar across where the rear seats mount to. but the mid chassis is flexy. Needs a floor bar. without the floor bar, I can hear my car squeak at the lower end of the b pillars when doing a hard turn.

Thinking of profoam, but I don't think the chassis will last. I just found rust at the wheel well area yesterday. looks like I will have to remove the tar underneath the car and see the extent of the rust. It's a 92 eg, so it is expected.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 12 2012, 06:22 PM

which u guys prefer? b18cr, or b20?

since im in sabah, its hard 4 me to get this, huhu
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+Civic+M+-15476779.htm
better sell my kelisa to add the cash so can buy ek hatch

This post has been edited by Throttle: Jul 12 2012, 11:12 PM

Depends on how you drive. If you drive normally, and occasional vtec, then B20B
If you maintain vtec for long long time, then go for B18C.

It'll last longer for you that way.

how about daily driven, and alittle bit drag race on sunday

B20B a bit risky for drag racing. Most tend to explode after a while. Exactly how long a while depends on how many times you misshift.

Low risk is B18C. Just up compression a bit, toss some cams in, get some gear ratios and you can put your game on.