Honda owner reporting in.. old old car though. *runs*

Fuyoh, that ad said upgraded LSD +20bhp. How come mine after put in LSD long ago not gone up also? FN2 LSD motorized/powered is it?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 19 2012, 09:28 PM

the usual when buying any second hand car, service records if available, electronics, if you buddy buddy with mechanic, get him to check undercarriage for leaks/wet oil patches. some are not deal breakers, just better leverage for haggling :evilgrin:

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Added on June 20, 2012, 7:16 pmgen5. actually pictured in my sig. type-s here kinda retarded compared to the state's type s. not sure about fn2, but fd2 is easy, they missing self levelling headlight sensor on the right lower control arms.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 20 2012, 07:16 PM

Old jalopy, more like, LOL.

Just hope you don't complain about the harsh ride. It may be a four door, but it's not a typical saloon.

It's a 2.0 actually... and using 97 RON as well

Well, the B20B is a bit of an old story. Long ago swap. Didn't opt for high comp, only 11.8, so if at a pinch where 97 not available, can run 95 now, but not high rpm (with B20B, who needs high rpm lol). Compared to the 1.6 1.8 B series, cannot lenjan like no tommorow. For daily driving though, the torque is

K swap, my friend is doing, a bit too expensive for my blood though. In 5-6 years maybe.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 02:47 AM

Agree with this. I can tell you I pour a lot of money for my 5th gen for maintenance. The rubber bits are quite expensive cumulatively. My door rubber seals easily costed me 1.5K upwards, outer door seal, inner door seal, run channel (the run channel rubber price was seriously a killer! 200+ for the shortest rubber in the bunch.

In my case it was a suitable choice for me, since the car has been in my possession for nearly a decade, with one top overhaul, and later on, a few engine swaps to where it is now. Total I spend probably 80K plus price of car, but that cost is spread over the span of many years, so not really a big deal.

If you are going to buy, I can tell you all the rubber bits will be likely broken and need replacement, the power windows are just waiting to die (mine all four died already, and I bought new replacements last year, the tiny plastic wheel on the scissor link all hancur/ almost hancur.) So I'm going to state what zenix said. NOT A GOOD IDEA, the cars are just too old.

It's damn near impossible to find a mint well maintained one for a good pricepoint.


Madman,
Specs eh? the engine is damn old already but (as I remember it)
it's a B18cR with a B20B block. (ori block involved in accident cracking the block), reused innards, and plonked into B20B, ran a while with CF4 pistons, then started consuming engine oil, took apart, rebuilt into current form now.
Wiseco Pistons 85mm
Forged rods (forgot what brand, only remember I opted for I beams for lightweight)
Block Guard
Type R cams
Hondata S300.
Mugen Header
Kakimoto's 2.5" exhaust set for DC2
Intake Edelbrock Performer X (this is a very recent purchase)
Type R intake with rebored Type R TB
Only making 200ish whp

Daily driven, occasional abuse, which is probably why it lasted so long. I never hold 6-9K rpm for long.
Currently getting that intake installed along with door rubber seals.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 12:36 PM

mykazza, if you can get the chassis seriously cheap, yeah, it might be worth it, but face it lah, eg/ek sudah old school, most people won't look twice at it. Even me who goes BWAAAAAH last time now using a more silent exhaust. Sudah tua lol, and unwilling to pay mad prices for new car. One thing good about old honda's though, if parts run out over at japan, US still got.

For me, as long as myself happy with my car and it gives me no problems, good enough for me.

Currently a few of ES/EK/EG with K20a roaming about, but the budget to play K20 is still quite high. At least I can look forward to something when my B20B finally gives up the ghost, and K20 will be cheaper.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 02:46 PM

Still cute as ever, lol.

Lol, look at the turbo also can guess the horsepower. Still, such high hp turbo cars aren't really daily drivable. The low end just simply... SUCKS.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 02:49 PM

*points up*

Madman,
Specs eh? the engine is damn old already but (as I remember it)
it's a B18cR with a B20B block. (ori block involved in accident cracking the block), reused innards, and plonked into B20B, ran a while with CF4 pistons, then started consuming engine oil, took apart, rebuilt into current form now.
Wiseco Pistons 85mm (edit: custom low comp versions)
Forged rods (forgot what brand, only remember I opted for I beams for lightweight)
Block Guard
Type R cams
Hondata S300.
Mugen Header
Kakimoto's 2.5" exhaust set for DC2
Intake Edelbrock Performer X (this is a very recent purchase)
Type R intake with rebored Type R TB
Only making 200ish whp on dynojet. 201-203, since it's just a 1980ish cc with the B18c stroker.

*copy pasta from above*

Valve is standard with toda springs BC retainers, head is ported type R.
Also have a spare head and block with flat valves, but if I run that compression would exceed 12.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 25 2012, 03:34 PM

^ THIS

Yeah, 1980ish. stop being anal about cc numbers

That's why never skimp on tuning. Hondata is cheaper now (when I bought it, it was 595usd), the new version even has digital input so can control a lot more things or take input from wideband, and a guy told me he bought his for sub 2K... . Me, I'll stick with my old and working one.

I dunno about Performer X performance yet, because this is the FIRST TIME I'm putting it on my car? LOL.. So sorry, dunno how it goes. Was using type R intake before this like in the specs lists.

I think you're not making power due to lack of ignition tune. 12+ comp should be making 200++ easy with a ported head. Rather than cams, get hondata first and get a proper tune I think. I don't think I've met a B20B owner yet with sub 200hp. You're probably the first one.

Anyway, no pictures of the intake atm. I haven't even picked up my car from the shop yet lol. I got bored brushing dirt out of the vtec dohc and honda logo, I removed it from the valvecover, so that's another thing I got done, so it takes few days. Also polished my mugen exhaust header while the car is in the shop, so I'll take photoes later. I wonder how they're going to move that fuel filter out of the way of the intake, I bought the k-tuned inline fuel filter already, but hasn't arrived yet, so probably they'll figure something out.

Engine builder is Rochi Racing down in usj1. Now car at bodyshop for the rubber window seals. Asking them to install the intake and header along while they're at it

Yep. Anyway performer x installed. Hose routing is a nightmare. Had to change idle valve and throttle cable to type r. installation cost just went up a lot i should have retained my iacvlesssetup...

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Added on June 25, 2012, 8:24 pmI think it was designed for a dc2. Fitment is tight on eg engine bay

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Added on June 25, 2012, 8:27 pmOh madman, take note max plenum opening is only 68 after porting. Cannot open to 70. Ori only 66mm.

All that space is soon to be taken up. (O_o)


Packing 200horsepower and one cockroachpower for added oomph





This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 26 2012, 01:52 AM

Well the reason i went iacvless previously was because the r intake i used had the iacv threads ruined, so i ask people to weld it shut so no iacv

kinda useless anyway, since it doesn't do much duty other than prevent revs dropping too fast. Since this intake got the port, tried putting a b16a one in, but too close to the hardline near proportioning valve. I'm currently looking for pics on how the hose and tb cable routing is supposed to be like

Rochi now doing k20a engine builds now, including k20/24 frankensteins.

I don't think rochi is expensive. Kinda depends what work you want done and time taken to do it.



This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 26 2012, 01:56 PM

Was on dc2/eg/ef throttle cable routing, so had to change to ek9 one. Woah u have much bling under the hood. Mine mostly black only. Then again, i am pretty lazy with engine cleaning. Btw, what ratio are u using for your b20b?

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Added on June 26, 2012, 3:17 pmBtw just to give you an idea, the performer x sits a full one inch closer to the firewall compared to itr/skunk2 one

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 26 2012, 03:17 PM

Yeah, tighter than expected.

Don't worry about being only on B16A, I ran stock B16A g/box for a long time until my 3/4th syncro mamposed. Now on S4C, thinking of GSR LS 5th gear ratio for highway cruising but $$$ diverted elsewhere, like everyone else.. hahaha. I thought the Y21 is good enough because it has the exact same ratio as the EK9 S4C, except s4c comes with LSD and dual cone syncros.

Anyway, I also not confident of my skills using torsen/helical LSD since it's supposed to involve left foot braking. Just enjoying the torque of B20b is enough for me.

Well, I bought my car from an audio enthusiast. Holes everywhere lol (I consider free lightening). Chassis was cheap though for the price at that time.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 26 2012, 05:10 PM

Not sure, I'm not sure about trying it anytime soon because it is a huge jump from the 4th. Kinda depends on how much fuel prices goes up I guess..

My friend bought this halfcut. Can't wait for his parts to arrive then can see how a K20A is being installed and how much the cost in total.


This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 26 2012, 05:23 PM