go for it... EF with B18C-R is good...strong engine in a lightweight body.. plus...aftermarket stuff for EFs is alot easier to find now compared to when i was playing with EFs about 10 years ago....back then cant even find brand new adjustables... traction bar non-existent.. now, very easy to get.

though i do recommend getting the chassis strengthened....either by bars of by spot welding.. i find it abit soft....my ex-EF3 had its chassis strengthened by the ex-owner.. and it feels significantly better in corners compared to my friends original EF9.

only downside to EFs is that bodyparts and interior parts can get quite expensive nowadays.

another solution is to look into 4-door EGs... with that budget confirm can get something with B16A... or if ur lucky B18C GSR or even Type R...or u can always buy some stock cheapo 4-door EG for about 12-15k and do the conversion urself....more money involved... but definitely more satisfaction.

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Added on July 7, 2012, 11:18 pmoh yeah... one more thing forgot to mention... when looking into buying EFs.. make sure the chassis is EF chassis and not the local model ED (though there are some very good EDs out there)

reason for this is EFs come with anti-rust from factory while the ED doesnt...even if the ED already has had anti-rust done by one of the owners.. its still a very old car..and u cant really tell wats going on under the new layer of anti-rust

this one im not too sure... i was told about the EF chassis by a friend whos an EF fanatic and someone whos quite known to be a sifoo in EFs...

but my EG is actually an EH... havent seen a single rust anywhere on my chassis..
if theres rust, it can always be fixed...but i personally would avoid. rust repair can get quite expensive...especially when u end up discovering even more rust... the car u posted does look good (ive never come across it, coz i dont look at ads for EFs)...but aside from the rust repair... theres still more mods u can do..the engine still can be modded...hondata or crome can be installed since its running on OBD1 etc etc.... but i personally think that EF is expensive.. i wouldnt pay that kinda price for an EF no matter how immaculate... not unless it has a K series in it....at most mebbe 25k....coz end of the day....its still a 23 year old car.

i once went to see an EF in puncak alam when a friend was looking for it.... actually it was an ED... it was immaculate.. though it had minor accident before....and i still mean immaculate.. he even did the anti rust... the car also had ALL legal papers including engine and sunroof approval...it had a stock 96spec B18C-R though with the 4.4 gearbox....but still... we told our friend, the ef sifoo, about the car.. he mentioned that he knows the car and the owner and he really liked that car...but the ED chassis turned him off. which is when he told us about the anti rust thingy

if the swap was done correctly u shouldnt get any issues...good thing about honda is that theyre pretty much swappable when it comes to engine, wiring, suspension, brakes etc etc.

spot welding....yes u will get issues with JPJ... but when they stop u, im pretty sure theyll concentrate on the loud exhaust instead... but i heard that during puspakom check for name transfer, if theres spot welding, theyll fail it. BUT...from what ive heard it can still be passed with the right papers.. u gotta go through some paperwork thingy to tell them the spot welding is not a sambung thing or some shit like that.....when i had my EF, the whole puspakom check for name transfer didnt exist yet..so it wasnt an issue back then.

bars... front strut, rear strut, rear c-pillar...fender bars... rear anti roll bar and front anti roll bar if u can find.. should be enough...perhaps a room bar as well though i dont see the need.

anyway... u can also get a good chassis/body/interior EF with B16A...and later on plonk in a B18C-R engine kosong... this would cost u about 5-6k siap pasang. inclusive of new timing belt...though u may need to get some form of aftermarket management like E-manage (1.4k) to properly tune the engine...the B16A ECU mapping will not be good for B18C-R...even if the ECU has already had a spoon chip or mugen or watever brand chip... a programmable ECU is still better n more reliable coz u know that the map in it is meant for ur engine... branded chips u dunno the map for wat engine n u dunno if it suits ur engine or not....or if the EF u bought already has OBD1, crome is RM550 from Avantech, and hondata is 2.5k siap pasang siap tune from almost everywhere
....or u could just convert the B16A to a B20 hybrid for about half the price of the B18C-R... but B20 abit manja la

only downside about getting EFs with B16A is that they most likely come with the Y1 or S1 gearbox which is a 4.2 final drive ratio... which to me, is the biggest downside of the Small VTEC B16A...unless they already put in a 4.4FD gearbox like the YS1 (which is the ONLY 4.4FD clutch cable gearbox...the rest are on clutch pump)
HERE is another possible EF for u to look at...dunno sold or not.

could also take a look at THIS ONE

THIS says ori EF9....but if ori.. then im wondering whats up with the CRX dashboard..

Not expensive I think. Just need A/C and Power Steering only mah... assuming the wires isn't chopped for motec/other aftermarket ecu. huhuhu

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Added on July 8, 2012, 4:38 am
28K for an EF? that's insane, unless it's in mint condition.
Before doing stuff like this, I feel that I should mention what happened when I took out my B16A that was swapped 8-9 years ago. The rubbers and hoses were all expired, just waiting for time to fail. Total cost of ALL new hoses and seals 1K+. (prolly cheaper if got knockoffs, but I'm not sure they exist.)

When buying a second hand car, if the owner asking this kind of price, ask him for service records. If want to sell at such a price, the f**king owner better provide detailed service records, and receipt of all his repairs. If he cannot furnish such things, then I suggest better stay away. Some of the owners want to let go their cars at high prices, but neglect to provide proof of repair/parts purchase. 

My friend sold his EG hatchback for 40K, and even that is because it has tons of rare parts, like TE37 Limited, Spoon Calipers, Mugen & Spoon bits (not replica), and all the parts are bought new.
(which is why documentation is important, if seller talk, you think can trust 100%?)

Some of these fellas using replicas/kedai potong parts on their cars and trying to sell their cars at prices of 'premium' cars.  . Lucky for them, there's always idiots who buy these cars, then find out that the car wasn't worth that much, or on the verge of breaking down.

Want to sell at "high-class" prices, but car never maintained at "high-class" level.

Since you mention you're still a student, be wary of minor maintainance, who can say that after you buy, drive it around a few weeks, a coolant hose fails, you overheat your engine, and suddenly hard up for money to repair.

Caveat Emptor.

Saw the ad you included, that looks like DC2R passenger side mount. Not clear in the picture, but if it's hard mounts, prepare for shaking dashboard and numb buttocks. Huhuhuhu

From the picture, I think 28K is overpriced for it. The car has damn near zero rare parts, and the fact that it has ANY replica parts at all, I would automatically stay away from it, because if the owner doesn't love the car enough to use original parts, I wonder what kind of motor oil and maintenance he put in the car. Actually never mind, I think I already know.

Just means that the maintainance and motor oil probably 'cincai' already.
For 28K, keep looking for a more pristine EF. It's out there somewhere.

and since u mention ur a student...i assume this will be ur daily runabout? i think i should advise u against getting a honda entirely.. B series may be reliable...but they do have their issues..and if its gonna be ur daily runabout, itll mean that ull be parking ur car practically everywhere... and hondas are getting stolen way too much lately...especially EGs n EKs.. EFs not much....but there has been a couple of cases that i know about.

if your budget is around there,  look for 20k price efs, put aside that 4k for repairs. Usually no matter how pristine, will have some minor repairs to do. Worse case scenario where after buying, gearbox synchros mampos. Not to mentions other maintainance when u start driving it around.

common problems would be IACV.. distributor.. VTEC solenoid leak... gearbox syncro....

n the car u posted looks good...me likes...hasport and arp...yummy.. looks as if it only needs an EF9 bumper and ur good to go... perhaps a J's Racing spoiler (i have a friend who sells this)... rims...subjective of course....

n perhaps get rid of that jasma short shifter

n can always shove in a B18C-R or B20B later on....

and for 19k...this would definitely be on my list.

Have a friend using crome, it's essentially like chipping your ecu, except the chip has your "custom tune" map inside.
Depends on how high you can rev your engine actually. I tried 9K rev limit B18c and 8k rev limit b18C. If you don't have 9K rpm, 4.7 will make gears feel short. In the case of B20B, 4.4 feels short for daily driving lol. I shift from 1-5 from traffic light at 1-3K rpm, takes me all of 10 secs. 2 secs per gear (light throttle, slow normal driving la)
For me, better he stick with non-hydraulic G/box, unless he can buy/modify in hydraulic gearbox since that costs $$$

Oh ORC clutch. I'm not a fan of racing clutches for daily driving. I'm using Exedy Stage 1 organic also damn leceh already.
Meisters S1 is nice. Those thick lips are something I can only dream about since I did the five lug conversion to EK9. Cannot fit anything below +42 offset for my front end.

yeah im liking that car...but B16B? why B16B? why not B18C terus? no replacement for displacement but if u wanna stick to the B16... id just get the B16B pistons and cams and shove in to the B16A.. which will be good for about 160-170whp

id get a B18C and do the ECU (mebbe e-manage) first n foremost...complete it with a skunk2 or type r intake manifold and s90 throttle body as well. then the gearbox with an Exedy/Trinity clutch (which is about RM1k)....should be a decent start....ORC can be added later on...or if u just get some cheapo stock clutch n use first pun boleh.

as for the gearbox..no need to get the clutch pump assembly... u can get a clutch pump gearbox and convert it to cable...hasport has a kit for it for about RM1xx if not mistaken...and better to stick to cable oso... coz ive heard clutch pumps can leak if u use with clutches like ORC or OS...but clutch cable, ur leg will be suffering la

n yes.. J's racing spoiler and front lip to me is the best kit for the EF...coincidentally my friend sells both of these...as well as a few other EF stuff coz hes a hardcore EF kaki...



personally i would love to get the J's rear wing and front lip for my EG Hatch as well...
did u manage to get any feedback from ur friend about the crome? who did his tuning?

my friends B18C-R was stock with the 4.7fd... n yeah... i gotta agree with the B20 n 4.4... even now when cruising on highways....when im at fifth gear i feel like im still in 3rd... every now n then i put the gear to neutral n push it back to fifth....just to be sure

unfortunately choices for cable gbs are limited to 3... Y1 and S1 which has the 4.2fd... and the YS1 which is 4.4... problem is... 4.2fd is.....is............is......eeerrrr......eeerrr.......abit tak syiok la.... and YS1 is very rare as its only produced for 1-2 years max... and u know la the pricing for rare honda stuff....plus that gb is so old... u dunno the condition of the internals especially the syncros....it might even be cheaper to get a hydro gb n put it in...n as mentioned above... hasport has a kit to convert hydro gbs to use cable....those kits will add some bling to ur engine bay man...my mech did it to a CRX once with an S80... damn good looking kit too

ive gone through the whole racing clutch for daily use with my ex-EF....somemore i was on cable...it reached a point where i only drive the car at night (mainly due to my a/c being utterly useless)...and NEVER into KL town every other time i just ride my kapchai.

nowadays, im on stock type r clutch...bang for buck n comfy hahahahha....getting too old liao....but i do plan on getting a clutch with more bite... coz that minor "slip" when shifting at redline abit tak syiok la...i miss that "lompat" feeling when shifting at redline... heheheh

Yes, the conversion kit is to convert your original EF clutch pedal's clutch cable hook, to pull the clutch pump.
Can custom rather than buy the kit, so you can find a fabricator to mock one up for you. The kit is just a piece of steel, with a O washer to weld on your ori pedal so it can push the clutch pump, without it coming of, since the ori clutch pedal is a J hook.
For 170USD, better make yourself at some fabrication shop. Don't think it'll hit RM500. just show them the picture, and they'll get it.

The other one is hasport, it retains the cable, but has a linkage to push the hydraulic pump on the gearbox.
See previous reply, it's already stated that cable drive clutch has a softer feel since the cable can streeeeeetch.
Eh? S4C more expensive than S80? I guess people here dunno about the double cone syncros in the S4C. Dunno if there were S80s with double cone synchros though. Perhaps they exist, but not sure.

Spoon LSD? That's a clutch type LSD, VERY NICE when the clutch packs are still okay, DAMN LOUSY when it's worn out. My friend once had one, at first nice, but after a while, bleh, feel like open diff.

the rebore part is understandable...and wiseco...nice...but abit odd as to why 9.1cr only when the stock is 10.2...i would have gone even higher...not sure about pricing of B16B block...never asked before...gearbox wise u could just get the S4C.... if ur nearby shah alam etc.. i could intro u to a friend who deals with type r parts..his business is purely type r parts.

i dont know the specific details of it but i do it can be done... best to get a reputable builder to work on it. ull need a conversion kit coz like i mentioned.. the EF was built for cable.. one main issue about clutch pumps in EF is space.. not much space to mount everything.

i strongly suggest getting a car first... drive it around for awhile...see if theres anything not right with it n get it fixed.. especially with bushings n engine mounts.

was thinking of calling for a yum char/tt session... unfortunately my engine is in pieces at the moment in the workshop... so later later la

Oh, sorry then I thought you meant FLP shifters being adjustable types.
Yeah, the RM500 is the billet adjustable shifter. There's no FLP shifters at chris's place. I suggest contacting k-tuned to find out the max height before you decide though, I'm not sure how high it can go. The C-speed one is near the ac vents on the EK, so it's quite high. I don't think the K-tuned can go that high, but I haven't seen the actual product to be sure.

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Added on July 10, 2012, 3:32 pm

Haha.. nolah, I mean S4C usually more expensive or same price with S80 from what I've seen, but really not sure of the price now. I haven't bought any used gearbox in a long time.

Helical LSD is better in terms of free maintainance.

I drove a few cars with clutch LSD. OS Giken Superlock LSD, Spoon LSD, Kaaz. Seriously clutch LSD have that feel to it. They simply "pull" the car into the corners better, regardless of traction on either side. With torsen, you lift one front wheel up, instant understeer.    Talking with some track kakis, they say can compensate with left foot braking to lock that free wheel in the air, but I've never successfully done it.

I almost kena racun if it were not for me unwilling to spend 2.5-4K on LSD.

Racing and Normal LSD? I only know of 3 types. Helical, Clutch and Viscous
Not sure, but maybe the racing has higher slip threshold than normal LSD. For helicals, maybe more gears in the LSD to accommodate more torque?

Just got quotation for OEM EG9 Lower control arms. RM480 per piece. Looks like I'm going poly or sphericals. Dafuq with that OEM price.

wat do u mean by bodywork?

even if its ED...if ur confident in the chassis then by all means get it...

i think ur gonna have to be willing to travel out of state to get a car...

my car oso i bought from JB... friend of a friend.. bought the car without even seeing it though..hahhahaaa

yeah its supposed to be slightly slanted.

Slowly releasing clutch and balance the throttle? On a racing clutch?
Nice EFs are getting rarer, most of the buyers buy from other owner then unwilling to repair. All became worse, then they want to sell back and get back their capital.

how about this ?

http://www.mudah.my/Honda+Civic+M+ef+3+original-15875944.htm

Well, I can, but the clutch will BURN. 

Even my exedy organic can get that clutch burning smell, esp reversing out of my friend's house slope where it's slippery. 

i need to get a heatshield done for my airfilter...but damn malas wanna DIY la.. any idea where can make n how much???

saw that ad before... and i very very very the like wat im read...expect around 210-220whp on the dynojet...could be higher if the block is resleeved and bored to about 84+
n somehow my bekside very the itchy lately.. thinking of selling off my hatch and getting a bone stock 4-door EK (mebbe EG) and kasi bikin projek.. hahahhaha