Ok wait, so lets say i put in a hydro tranny, a mastar pump, slave pump and clutch pedal assembly is needed right? Is it alot more complicated than this? Please advice...

How would you modify the pedal to run a hydro is probably the biggest question
Can get ideas from this one, but probably issues you'd face is clearances in the car. (read honda-tech thread)
http://www.xenocron.com/sonem-ef-boltin-hy...sion-p-441.html
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2472947
read page 1 & 2.

The one at xenocron is the finished product, as you can see, they cut off the part where got clearance problem mentioned in the honda-tech forum.

EF under dash is pretty cramped AFAIK, so good luck with trying it out.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 04:24 AM

yeah im liking that car...but B16B? why B16B? why not B18C terus? no replacement for displacement but if u wanna stick to the B16... id just get the B16B pistons and cams and shove in to the B16A.. which will be good for about 160-170whp

id get a B18C and do the ECU (mebbe e-manage) first n foremost...complete it with a skunk2 or type r intake manifold and s90 throttle body as well. then the gearbox with an Exedy/Trinity clutch (which is about RM1k)....should be a decent start....ORC can be added later on...or if u just get some cheapo stock clutch n use first pun boleh.

as for the gearbox..no need to get the clutch pump assembly... u can get a clutch pump gearbox and convert it to cable...hasport has a kit for it for about RM1xx if not mistaken...and better to stick to cable oso... coz ive heard clutch pumps can leak if u use with clutches like ORC or OS...but clutch cable, ur leg will be suffering la

n yes.. J's racing spoiler and front lip to me is the best kit for the EF...coincidentally my friend sells both of these...as well as a few other EF stuff coz hes a hardcore EF kaki...



personally i would love to get the J's rear wing and front lip for my EG Hatch as well...


did u manage to get any feedback from ur friend about the crome? who did his tuning?

my friends B18C-R was stock with the 4.7fd... n yeah... i gotta agree with the B20 n 4.4... even now when cruising on highways....when im at fifth gear i feel like im still in 3rd... every now n then i put the gear to neutral n push it back to fifth....just to be sure

unfortunately choices for cable gbs are limited to 3... Y1 and S1 which has the 4.2fd... and the YS1 which is 4.4... problem is... 4.2fd is.....is............is......eeerrrr......eeerrr.......abit tak syiok la.... and YS1 is very rare as its only produced for 1-2 years max... and u know la the pricing for rare honda stuff....plus that gb is so old... u dunno the condition of the internals especially the syncros....it might even be cheaper to get a hydro gb n put it in...n as mentioned above... hasport has a kit to convert hydro gbs to use cable....those kits will add some bling to ur engine bay man...my mech did it to a CRX once with an S80... damn good looking kit too

ive gone through the whole racing clutch for daily use with my ex-EF....somemore i was on cable...it reached a point where i only drive the car at night (mainly due to my a/c being utterly useless)...and NEVER into KL town every other time i just ride my kapchai.

nowadays, im on stock type r clutch...bang for buck n comfy hahahahha....getting too old liao....but i do plan on getting a clutch with more bite... coz that minor "slip" when shifting at redline abit tak syiok la...i miss that "lompat" feeling when shifting at redline... heheheh

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 10 2012, 12:20 PM

ermmmm he is using a B16A block equipped with oversized wiseco pistons. But the cr is 9:1... The reason he gave was because the block had scratches in the cylinder wall thats why he rebored it... hmmm isnt B18C alot more expensive? and also S80 gbs are more expensive than the S4C gbs... isn't it? hmmm

alright lets say i would love to use a clutch pumped gb, what do i need to do? Don't i just need to get the gb, pump, slave pump, and a set of pedals from DC2 or something? I don't really understand how it works tho. read a few forum posts on honda-tech. Don't quite understand... what does the conversion kit do? i've seen conversion kits from cable to pump? but lets say i bought a hydro tranny, why do i still need the conversion kit? Please guide me. thankss.

Getting the clutch pumped gb and convert it into cable, is there any disadvantage to this besides having a heavier clutch feel? But i myself would prefer the clutch pump idea than the cable idea... hmmm

alright do let me know about your friend whose selling those J's racing parts. (: anyways, any yamcha session? hahahah would it be easier if all of us meet up? But i sure feel ps cause im like the youngest..... /:

And also i've checked the pricing for a B16B block, around 1.6k, S4C with spoon lsd 2.2k, with normal lsd at other shop selling 2.3k. with racing lsd selling for 2.8k. lol S80 im not really sure about the pricing but for the J4D ones should be around 3k? is it? or about the same as S4C gbs?

This post has been edited by Mediocre2: Jul 10 2012, 01:48 PM

clutch pump leakage is normal lah, usually the seals koyak, but if new, no problem. I also would recommend getting braided clutch lines simply because its cheap, lol. I'm running Goodrich ones, if forgot how much I bought it for when new, but it was cheap.

I even drove back the car from KL with my friend, quite good actually. Tuning was done by Ah Loo, at Siong VTEC's old shop place. Stroked B16B. Got knocking at low end sometimes, but I guess that one is due to temp difference, since tuned during rainy season, so when hot, sometimes got knocking, but only at low end.
Heard Avantech last time also had Crome tuning, dunno now still got or not.

Stock with 4.7 is good enough what, just need to set rpm to 9.5K, but only use that max limit for 1st and 2nd.

Agree, type R clutch still the best for daily driving.
If your clutch slips at high rpm, I'm guessing you didn't resurface the flywheel when putting in new clutch. Also, I had that problem once too, turns out the pressure spring on the clutch cover already gone case, since I bought the clutch second hand, but with the new clutch pads.

the rebore part is understandable...and wiseco...nice...but abit odd as to why 9.1cr only when the stock is 10.2...i would have gone even higher...not sure about pricing of B16B block...never asked before...gearbox wise u could just get the S4C.... if ur nearby shah alam etc.. i could intro u to a friend who deals with type r parts..his business is purely type r parts.

i dont know the specific details of it but i do it can be done... best to get a reputable builder to work on it. ull need a conversion kit coz like i mentioned.. the EF was built for cable.. one main issue about clutch pumps in EF is space.. not much space to mount everything.

i strongly suggest getting a car first... drive it around for awhile...see if theres anything not right with it n get it fixed.. especially with bushings n engine mounts.

was thinking of calling for a yum char/tt session... unfortunately my engine is in pieces at the moment in the workshop... so later later la

Yes, the conversion kit is to convert your original EF clutch pedal's clutch cable hook, to pull the clutch pump.
Can custom rather than buy the kit, so you can find a fabricator to mock one up for you. The kit is just a piece of steel, with a O washer to weld on your ori pedal so it can push the clutch pump, without it coming of, since the ori clutch pedal is a J hook.
For 170USD, better make yourself at some fabrication shop. Don't think it'll hit RM500. just show them the picture, and they'll get it.

The other one is hasport, it retains the cable, but has a linkage to push the hydraulic pump on the gearbox.


See previous reply, it's already stated that cable drive clutch has a softer feel since the cable can streeeeeetch.

Eh? S4C more expensive than S80? I guess people here dunno about the double cone syncros in the S4C. Dunno if there were S80s with double cone synchros though. Perhaps they exist, but not sure.

Spoon LSD? That's a clutch type LSD, VERY NICE when the clutch packs are still okay, DAMN LOUSY when it's worn out. My friend once had one, at first nice, but after a while, bleh, feel like open diff.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:36 PM

yeah thought about the clutch hoses... i bought a brand new Russell clutch hose from a friend for about RM180....but unfortunately the heads didnt fit... so had to return it...my mech said he can do a custom braided hose....a long one where hell get rid of the metal tubes so the hose can be routed and tucked nicely... about RM120 iirc.

Avantech still does Crome.. if ur OBD1 has been re-chipped itll cost RM550 with 1 hour on the dyno... if ECU has never been chipped add 100 to do the base. as for Ah Loo... heard this name before... even have a friend with the name Ah Loo...but dunno if he does tuning or not..hahahha

my clutch came with the car when i bought it... right now couldnt be bothered much with it since i rarely redline these days.....coz im planning on getting a better clutch that comes with flywheel....like the ORC or Exedy Hyper Single......

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Added on July 10, 2012, 2:38 pmyeah....thats the problem with clutch type... they wear out... quite fast too...

id rather just get the type r helical lsd honestly...

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 10 2012, 02:38 PM

Just buy new from Chris at Pentagon, that's where I bought mine. I bought mine long long time ago, so dunno the price now.

For the price, quite good actually, I think for normal people, rather than go piggyback, might as well go chrome, since it's like hondata s100.

Wah, all of you like racing clutches eh? I don't really like them due to their sudden bite.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:40 PM

if i ever buy anything from Chris...itll probably be K-Tuned stuff

but naah...id rather get custom... dun wanna end up like the Russell, where the ends didnt fit..

besides...Pentagon is so far away from Shah Alam...n my mechanic is in Shah Alam hahahahhaha

Heh, I already ordered a few bits from him. Fuel filter to convert my fuel system to full AN, and K conversion kit for my friend. All from K-tuned.

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Added on July 10, 2012, 2:44 pmYep, torsen the best, but have to really practice left foot braking when you lift up one front wheel though.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:44 PM

the conversion kit is from K-Tuned? the one with the wire harness, shifter box etc etc??

and have u checked the price on the K-Tuned B/D series shifter?? been interested in that or the FLP shifter for quite awhile now

B/D series shifter no stock, chris asked me if worth to bring in. I said no, lol, because the type R's 20-25mm throw is short enough. Unless you want to the shifter stick really high like those track cars, since can adjust to maintain short throw after lengthening. Price should be about RM500 or so.

Yeah, the stage one conversion kit. He's anal about the wiring, so instead of going custom, he's buying a complete dash harness. No confirmation if need to lengthen wires for RHD, so consider guinea pig la.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:48 PM

i thought its in already? RM500 is not bad.. n yeah i want my gear high while maintaining short throws...im currently on dc2-r shifter with custom circuit-hero-like 4" extender... cant imagine going back to a short stick shifter.

n if u think my current or the K-Tuned shifter is high...u should check out the FLP shifter...hahahahha



n i iz envy ur friend... going into an EG? where is he getting his swap done?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 10 2012, 02:49 PM

Well, I was referring to FLP shifter. First time encounter these kinds of shifter was from C-speed. C-speed looks nice, but the bottom broke on a friend's ride. Had to fabricate replacement from a machine shop. Now up and running again.

About the billet K tuned shifter, I was at chris's place 2-3 weeks ago. no stock then.

Yes, it's going into an EG hatch. His swap is DIY at his own garage. I'm going to be helping him out with it. It is going to be SO FUN, right now I'm bored to wait for the weekend to come.

Going to get it running first, then decide if we need traction bars as a permanent addition.

My other friend with EK kena racun already, now trying to sell of his 2.1L b20b engine so he can put a K in.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:56 PM

wait wait...im confused.. i was asking about K-Tuned B/D shifter..ie this one..



not the billet shifter box for K-series...

and FLP shifter i meant this one



which one u meant about the RM500? and which one did u say not worth to bring in?

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 10 2012, 02:59 PM

Hahahaha you mean the S80 are more expensive than the S4C is it? Hmmmmm so helical lsd is better? But why is there normal and racing LSD? Ermmm owh double synchros... Nice...

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Added on July 10, 2012, 3:08 pmI think he wanted to go turbo but in the end x jadi. He asked me to go turbo lol. I told him i retire from turbo d thats why buy honda... Ahahah.

Ermmm can also. Do let me know about him and his contact number. What kinda type r parts he sell? About the conversion kit, understood already. Not enough space to mount everything... Hmmm...

Owh and btw, the red EF owner said he had spoon bushings and also hasport mounts. Should be fine already gua...

This post has been edited by Mediocre2: Jul 10 2012, 03:10 PM

Oh, sorry then I thought you meant FLP shifters being adjustable types.
Yeah, the RM500 is the billet adjustable shifter. There's no FLP shifters at chris's place. I suggest contacting k-tuned to find out the max height before you decide though, I'm not sure how high it can go. The C-speed one is near the ac vents on the EK, so it's quite high. I don't think the K-tuned can go that high, but I haven't seen the actual product to be sure.

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Added on July 10, 2012, 3:32 pmHaha.. nolah, I mean S4C usually more expensive or same price with S80 from what I've seen, but really not sure of the price now. I haven't bought any used gearbox in a long time.

Helical LSD is better in terms of free maintainance.

I drove a few cars with clutch LSD. OS Giken Superlock LSD, Spoon LSD, Kaaz. Seriously clutch LSD have that feel to it. They simply "pull" the car into the corners better, regardless of traction on either side. With torsen, you lift one front wheel up, instant understeer. Talking with some track kakis, they say can compensate with left foot braking to lock that free wheel in the air, but I've never successfully done it.

I almost kena racun if it were not for me unwilling to spend 2.5-4K on LSD.

Racing and Normal LSD? I only know of 3 types. Helical, Clutch and Viscous
Not sure, but maybe the racing has higher slip threshold than normal LSD. For helicals, maybe more gears in the LSD to accommodate more torque?

Just got quotation for OEM EG9 Lower control arms. RM480 per piece. Looks like I'm going poly or sphericals. Dafuq with that OEM price.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 04:04 PM

Owh i see i see... Hahaha bro the S4C are generally better than the S80 lah you mean? And the S4C only comes with helical LSD standard right? And only the Type R uses the S4C gb right?

Owh wow, learn something new about the left foot braking... Owh clutch LSDs are better in terms of performance lah? And what do you mean by with torsen, it will cause instant understeer?

And youre driving an EG9 is it?

Owh btw about the clutch cable to hydro thingy. I asked my dad, he told me before that his satria he uses cable clutch, he then converted it into clutch pump. He said its fairly okay to do the conversion but not to say easy la. Was wondering if the honda will be similar to the satria's conversion...

wats wrong with ur LCAs? if its just bushing no need to change the whole arm mah

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 10 2012, 04:22 PM