is zheng hou nam not chan hou nam, chan hou nam is one of the character in "Young and Dangerous 蛊惑仔“


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My fuel average figure showing me some crazy number, before this average was 8.9L/100KM, yesterday after pump in full tank from empty light on blinking digit, it show 6.1L/100KM. it is event lesser than the spec stated 6.5L/100KM.....
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Yeah true.. Our current persona the drum brake is next to useless in braking.. and with no EBD the behind brakes barely contribute to the braking efficiency.

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Added on August 3, 2011, 10:59 amMine lowest 1.5L/100km.. haha..

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Aug 3 2011, 10:59 AM

yalo,my one setup is more to high rev lo

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Added on August 3, 2011, 11:19 am220 @ 6k rpm ar??tat means is top of our engine ady..since 6k rpm ady..wat road tat u test220kmh?

This post has been edited by samwongjyhhorng: Aug 3 2011, 11:19 AM

Actually from everything I've read and discussed with ppl with these technical backgrounds (I still newbie...),

Conclusion : Never never do engine flush UNLESS you're encountering engine issues that requires it (meaning last resort, no choice).

In lots of cases especially those that have lots of contaminants and sludge, doing flush might makes things worse. Flush will lossen those solid sludge. Where do some of these sludge go since its heavy and doesn't float? When you flush it, it will go thru oil passage, pumps, tubes, drain holes and chances are high these heavy solid will just stuck there.

If you're lucky and don't have much sludge to begin with, you might just make it. As do some of those that have already done flushes.

If any of these sludge do happen to get stuck in just any one of the above places, you're engine will kaput. When that happens, you will have to do a major overhaul....assuming it did not damage your engine enuf, if that happen, new campro CPS coming. Chinese proverb, mou si wan si lei chou meaning creating problem when there is none in the first place.

Another theory include using flush oil. Flush oil are very powerful solvent meant to loosen those sludge. There always will be a couple of % leftover in engine after finish flushing (not 100% will come out). Imagine those mixing with your engine oil and what it will do to your engine long term...go figure.

Excerpt for NBC Los Angeles says it all.

""After engine flushes, there's a pretty high incidence of some damage to the interior of the engine," Chris Martin of Honda tells NBC Los Angeles.

That's why Honda issued a memo to mechanics advising them not to perform engine flushes. Other major car-makers, including Ford, General Motors, and Nissan have all issued similar advisories against the service.

Why? Over time, gummy deposits can build up inside your engine. The chemicals used for engine flush, are supposed to break up those deposits. But car-makers say, pieces of that broken up sediment can clog up other parts of the engine and ruin it."
"

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 3 2011, 11:42 AM

correct .....i am confused......

At first I read it I thought u were saying no shit find shit to make

Engine flushing shouldn't be done if ur car isn't experiencing problems from sludge buildups. So far in my life I've only heard 2 cases of engine flushing, one which is done on my friend's mother's car that had went unserviced for 4 years or 35,000 kms, and another one which I've seen myself at the workshop where it was carried out on a Saga 1.3 carburettor engine. Also lady's car.

Conclusion, unless u're a lady who doesn't service ur car at all but drives a lot, flushing is totally unnecessary..

Anyway, I had this funny experience once.. I was at an accessory shop looking for ICE stuffs to plonk into my car.. Then suddenly this lady drove her Myvi out of nowhere right into the shop where they usually park customers' cars to install stuffs.. So out of curiosity, the boss asked the lady if there's anything that he can help or what she wanna install.. She selamba je told the boss she wanna service her car..

...at an accessory shop.. I dont know whether to laugh or pity that lady..

eh but nowdays some accessory shop doing oil change service, or the other way workshop selling accessory....especislly at small twon areas.

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Added on August 3, 2011, 12:19 pmThen how ????? fully syn no good, semi syn poor, mineral also no good, flush cannot , oil filter cannot last long ..........wat to do for our car should use cooking oil Helang brand, or Bo Bo sesemi oil....... Those expert always posting the optimistic opinion because their statement are purposely posted to public for viewing, they cannot too bias to either side and they will never come out a conclusion or make promise, in case ppl follow what they said and end up with troble finaly they get shoot up.

This post has been edited by ngeo88: Aug 3 2011, 12:19 PM

I know.. But those are usually very small accessory shops that sells stuffs as their side income while they include services.. This accessory shop, no hydraulic jack, no engine oil no nothing.. Purely the kind that does tint & ICE, alarm system type.. & everywhere is air conditioned there, even the installation bay.. U just imagine driving to a shop like Brothers' & asking them to service ur car for u la..

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Added on August 3, 2011, 12:21 pm@Ngeo, the best way is to regularly check & service ur car for sludge buildups.. It is definitely cheaper than an early overhaul, no?

This post has been edited by xandras: Aug 3 2011, 12:21 PM

wei....Brothers at Kelana Jaya can change absorber, break pad and disc, install CAI, they have planty of jack and stand infront of the shop i belive they can change engine oil because they also selling engine oil......

Yes, they do sell engine oil but they do not provide car servicing. If u dont have a proper oil waste drainage, it's not a proper car service centre. Absorber, brake pad brake discs CAI all these are considered car accessories bro. But changing engine oil in an accessory shop? They don't do it because it's too messy. Heck, if there's a bloody tyre & service shop next door with proper hydraulic lift & waste container, why don't u just service ur car there instead? If u've been to an accessory shop, u'll quickly realise that they sell many things that are related to car performance, aesthetics & handling, but all of which are plug & play. Ok, perhaps Brother's wasn't such a good example. Hmm.. Maybe EA at bukit jalil? Drive there & tell them u wanna service ur car?

I even know an accessory shop that sells rims, but they do not offer installation there. No proper equipment mah.

Hi ..

New Persona B-Line Broze Garnet (A) reporting in .

Just got my car last Saturday.

If u drive alone and turn off the radio, i can hear cit cit sound at the back and trr trr sound at the bottom left front windscreen ( at the tip of our wiper )

Also, (1.) at the 1.6 word at the back already missing
- already ask the SA to give me the (1.) word and will DIY
- btw, isit possible to DIY ? i dont hv time to go SC bcos of work.


So, now I want to seek advice which tinted is good ?

I'm prefer black and can reject most of heat during hot days.

Also to protect the dashboard from UV as well..

Hello, member no. 249!!

cit cit sound at the back? From where? Since ur car is a BL, u dont have foldable seats so very unlikely the noise is from there. Check the rubber linings on the doors to ensure the noise isn't caused by friction. The vibration noise u hear on the bottom left front of ur windscreen could be caused by a loose bracket on the A-pillar plastic cover. I knew the problem was there for a very long time, just still couldn't figure out what can be done to permanently hold the bracket so that it wont move & make noise.

The 1.6 word can be DIY, but u should remove the remaining letters before sticking the new ones in. And the removing part is where u had to be careful because if not done properly u may accidentally remove the clear coat together with the letter. Which is not good.

Stick with Fully sync lah.. To prove to u that engine oil done right is good, my car which is using Castrol Magnatec now is nearly doing 10k mileage ady.. Beat that for durability. (although i dont recommend u to do that, the best for castrol magnatec semi sync is 7k km.. after that u can feel the engine becoming draggy and weighted a bit.. Performance not as optimum anymore.)

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Aug 3 2011, 01:07 PM

Who say fully syn no good. Fully syn very good ler but might be overkill. It also has gunpowder wan....can blow big holes in your pocket. Thats why some say no good, no value for money, pay big money for much less benefit than your car can use but overall still better than mineral or semi anytime.

The usual Group 3+ fully syn is still the the best hydrocracked minerals that have better stability and stable molecular structure although its still has its limits like contaminants in its oil. Its performance is near fully syn albeit minus several unique properties such as true FS having can hold contaminant better, etc and true FS has lesser amt of VI thus more synthetic oil instead of addictives instead. Normal fully syn still contain way less contaminant than normal mineral besides having better natural VII that had smaller margin of viscosity change (better).

If you can afford it, always go for fully syn if possible, although if you service your car on schedule at every 5K, our usual semi-syn is more than sufficient with oil filter change.

Don't follow like Zen unless you want you sell your car within a couple of years....coz I can imagine the gradual sludge buildup in his almost 10K mileage semi. When car feel draggy and weighted down, the addictives is probably gone and oil truly contaminated no matter how "golden" the oil still looks. Some more no oil filter change. In short term ok, give few years down the road...maybe damage something inside liao..

Ideally you should change lube BEFORE car start feeling draggy, in other words change while addictives is still working thus minimal engine wear out issue in its later life.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 3 2011, 01:31 PM

Booked my appointment for 10.30am tmr at Intan Matang for basic lube service + gear oil change. Anybody interested in joining?

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Added on August 3, 2011, 1:35 pm Yeah not recommended to follow my kind of service schedule.. Unless u are pro in self servicing and diagnostics.. Tmr after service will post my findings on how much of contaminant buildup has occured in the oil filter and whether the safety bypass has activated, and also will try to see if the engine oil has started sludging up..

As per highlighted, I guess if they were using Shell then they would have to change engine oil very much earlier.. Personal experience with Helix HX7, after 3k km the engine felt really draggy, I thought it was cos its a Proton and the engine ady gone case..

This post has been edited by ZenGTMM: Aug 3 2011, 01:40 PM

Xan the cit cit.......tikus is free give that come wit PE lah.....

Yea.. Buy 1 PE free 1 family tikus..

cit cit and also the screeching sound from this mouse..

u rolling down hill and free gear

1 family from god grandfather until god grandson...