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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !

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jchue73
post Aug 9 2011, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Aug 9 2011, 12:55 PM)
ghost month is near, if you shoot orange/ yellow skin girl and got result in white skin... habis lah  tongue.gif
LOL rclxms.gif
chiahau
post Aug 9 2011, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:11 AM)
OK, let's get this back on track.

Can we start with how to get accurate skin tone? Some of my photos taken in an event recently turned out to be yellowish like kena sunset sun sad.gif

I tried to use spot metering, but then it'll overblown the photo. Any guide and tips on this?
RM990 @ Foto Selangor. May able to get further discount but then it lies on your negotiation skill.
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Flash gel or Kelvin WB manual adjust. Flash gel should be easier, at least in my opinion. Kelvin WB takes quite some time to learn.

QUOTE(gerald7 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:32 AM)
Hmm.. I never judge by skin color (in post processing) I usually try reference the eye color, slight milky white and the skin I just leave it. But I see many of my friends like to make the skin a lighter a few shades, esp for female portraits.  blink.gif  got to learn how to to that one of these days...


Added on August 9, 2011, 11:33 am

wow so high iso,  drool.gif  drool.gif  what camera body is that? and do you shoot raw or in JpG or TIF ?
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1600 where got high? Normal la.. 3200 above only I consider high lol.
lwliam
post Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(chiahau @ Aug 9 2011, 02:02 PM)
Flash gel or Kelvin WB manual adjust. Flash gel should be easier, at least in my opinion. Kelvin WB takes quite some time to learn.
1600 where got high? Normal la.. 3200 above only I consider high lol.
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Bro, apala? Using gel, u also need knowledge on how kelvin WB works. On the field, custom WB is the easiest ler. Furthermore, what if he wasn't usig any flash?

ECS aka vearn, using autoWB or wrong WB presets will cause what u mentioned there. Easiest way is shoot AWB in RAW and post process later to your liking if the lighting condition changes very rapidly.

To learn how to custom WB in a fairly constant lighted room, it's pretty simple. Bring along a White piece of paper or tissue for your WB calibration. There, perfect WB in an instant!
MichaelJohn
post Aug 9 2011, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(KIEN18 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:17 AM)
Actually how to do this?

user posted image
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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:21 AM)
you mean like this?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


use JUMP la XD
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<Space bar> laugh.gif
Anyways.... It's pretty much easy , just need to set your shutter a bit higher and your focus on the subject
Isepunye
post Aug 9 2011, 03:43 PM

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KIEN18
post Aug 9 2011, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Aug 9 2011, 12:25 PM)
i mean this XD

http://www.mymodernmet.com/profiles/blogs/...ves-to-levitate

for BB code for youtube you need copy the code of the URL only  sweat.gif
CODE
[YOUTUBE]gA8tcrIwfGg[/YOUTUBE]

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alright..thanks for the info ya!! brows.gif


Added on August 9, 2011, 3:51 pm
QUOTE(MichaelJohn @ Aug 9 2011, 03:13 PM)
<Space bar>  laugh.gif
Anyways....  It's pretty much easy , just need to set your shutter a bit higher and your focus on the subject
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alright,thanks for the info..will try it out! rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by KIEN18: Aug 9 2011, 03:51 PM
Isepunye
post Aug 9 2011, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(KIEN18 @ Aug 9 2011, 03:50 PM)
alright..thanks for the info ya!!  brows.gif


Added on August 9, 2011, 3:51 pm
alright,thanks for the info..will try it out!  rclxm9.gif
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what about this? tongue.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

gerald7
post Aug 9 2011, 05:48 PM

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QUOTE(chongkiatz @ Aug 9 2011, 12:42 PM)
i using canon 550D  biggrin.gif , ISO 800 / 1600 isn't that bad la actually , shooting indoor normally at that ISO also , summore shooting group pic mostly using f4~5.6~7.1 , seldom use lower than f2.8
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oww... Mine only 200-400 ISO.. very rarely go to 800 ISO what more to say 1600 ISO.. keng ah.


QUOTE(Andy214 @ Aug 9 2011, 12:50 PM)
Depends, sometimes, you want the ambience/mood, sometimes, you want the skin color; especially if you're shooting people (especially girls); Imagine their face turn out yellow or orangy or dark when they have fair skin?

And the ISO is not really high especially if you're shooting wedding reception indoor where it's low light, and you're shooting group which requires smaller aperture most of the time.

If you underexpose, then it will be worst, the noise will be more apparent and muddy. So, if you underexpose, you will think or have the mindset that the camera cannot go higher ISO, when in fact, it's not the camera's fault.
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If setting correct should not make fair skin gal yellow leh.. but then again maybe some like it yellow haha! brows.gif

QUOTE(Agito666 @ Aug 9 2011, 12:55 PM)
ghost month is near, if you shoot orange/ yellow skin girl and got result in white skin... habis lah  tongue.gif
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yea yea ~ hungry ghost month coming... dun shoot come out bloodless skin one leh.. scary shocking.gif
jchue73
post Aug 9 2011, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(chiahau @ Aug 9 2011, 02:02 PM)
Flash gel or Kelvin WB manual adjust. Flash gel should be easier, at least in my opinion. Kelvin WB takes quite some time to learn.
You obviously have not encountered problems with matching the flash WB with the ambient WB or p[robably do not realise that is a problem in the first place. If you do not correct the WB light from your flash to match the ambient lighting, you will get different colour lighting from the ambient and from your flash in your pics. Correcting WB on the subject in PP (as a result of light source from the flash) will produce horrible outcome on the background and vice versa.

QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM)
Bro, apala? Using gel, u also need knowledge on how kelvin WB works. On the field, custom WB is the easiest ler. Furthermore, what if he wasn't usig any flash?
If vearn27 wasn't using flash, doing custom WB would be the best. But if you use the default flash in tungsten ambient lighting, you would have problems getting correct WB in your pics if your flash is not WB corrected.

QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM)
ECS aka vearn, using autoWB or wrong WB presets will cause what u mentioned there. Easiest way is shoot AWB in RAW and post process later to your liking if the lighting condition changes very rapidly.
Like I mentioned in my reply above, even PP in RAW would give horrible "corrected" WB in PP if the flash WB is different from the ambient WB. Your method is correct if vearn27 does not shoot with flash.

QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM)
To learn how to custom WB in a fairly constant lighted room, it's pretty simple. Bring along a White piece of paper or tissue for your WB calibration. There, perfect WB in an instant!
Not possible if you use flash that is not WB corrected.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Aug 9 2011, 06:05 PM
vearn27
post Aug 9 2011, 06:12 PM

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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:24 AM)
The yellowish should be due to WB. If you don't want to mess with Custom WB and those sort, you can try to correct the WB in LR, and also using the recovery slider.

That is possible with spot metering as it meter for the spot, if the spot is dark, it will increase the exposure. You can use EV compesation, but this means to review and re-take, Or you can use backeting?
I face this problem too, due to changing situation, some photos get overblown and since it's an event, for moving or scene which you can't always review the picture, it's bad. So, I switch back to M mode.
The bad part of M mode is, if the lighting changes drastically during the "duration", it'll affect your photo unless you notice it and quickly adjust, but this is kind of hard (example: Wedding March In, you can use M mode, when you take the people behind the couple later, which doesn't have spotlight, the will turn out darker than the couple shots).
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Yeah, I understand the yellowish skin tone due to my WB. However, I'm not sure on how to capture the color as accurately as possible for straight out from camera photos (I remember there is a term for this, but couldn't recall sweat.gif).

I'm using Matrix Metering mode all the while in the event I'm shooting. Tried to used Spot Metering, but the tendency of overblown the exposure is very high. Therefore, I kept the settings on Matrix Metering and AWB. I shoot event where movements are fast and I wouldn't be able to pace up with it if I tend to keep changing the settings sad.gif

QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:54 AM)
I assume you're using flash under tungsten lighting?

Use tungsten gel (or any type of gel to match ambient lighting) and set to tungsten WB on the camera. Adjust accordingly in RAW.
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Yeah. To be exact, flash under uneven lighting. Some yellow some white.

QUOTE(chiahau @ Aug 9 2011, 02:02 PM)
Flash gel or Kelvin WB manual adjust. Flash gel should be easier, at least in my opinion. Kelvin WB takes quite some time to learn.
1600 where got high? Normal la.. 3200 above only I consider high lol.
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I'm not sure if it's only me to be sceptical, I find that photos above ISO1600 on D7000 has intolerable noise. Well, I turned off both the NORMAL and HIGH ISO NR to preserve the details. Hmm... did not try on luminance setting processing with LR. Usually, what's the level of luminance to be recommended? Is there any recommended value?

QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 02:10 PM)
Bro, apala? Using gel, u also need knowledge on how kelvin WB works. On the field, custom WB is the easiest ler. Furthermore, what if he wasn't usig any flash?

ECS aka vearn, using autoWB or wrong WB presets will cause what u mentioned there. Easiest way is shoot AWB in RAW and post process later to your liking if the lighting condition changes very rapidly.

To learn how to custom WB in a fairly constant lighted room, it's pretty simple. Bring along a White piece of paper or tissue for your WB calibration. There, perfect WB in an instant!
*
Yo bro !

Well, I face the situation where the place has uneven lighting. As per mentioned above, some white and some yellowish. Given if I needed to handover the photos as soon as the event over, how would be the best method to capture the color tone as accurately as possible in a fast moving event?

Free to yumcha moh? Need tunjuk ajar leh biggrin.gif
gerald7
post Aug 9 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 9 2011, 06:05 PM)
You obviously have not encountered problems with matching the flash WB with the ambient WB or p[robably do not realise that is a problem in the first place. If you do not correct the WB light from your flash to match the ambient lighting, you will get different colour lighting from the ambient and from your flash in your pics. Correcting WB on the subject in PP (as a result of light source from the flash) will produce horrible outcome on the background and vice versa.
If vearn27 wasn't using flash, doing custom WB would be the best. But if you use the default flash in tungsten ambient lighting, you would have problems getting correct WB in your pics if your flash is not WB corrected.
Like I mentioned in my reply above, even PP in RAW would give horrible "corrected" WB in PP if the flash WB is different from the ambient WB. Your method is correct if vearn27 does not shoot with flash.
Not possible if you use flash that is not WB corrected.
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So morale of the story is learn to use the gel packs given by Nikon in the SB800 & SB900s..... does the SB700 have the color correction gels included?? I was testing the SB900 color correction gels at an event recently and found that even with the gels and settings, a lil tweak is still needed to get the WB to look 'right' rclxub.gif
MichaelJohn
post Aug 9 2011, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(gerald7 @ Aug 9 2011, 06:35 PM)
So morale of the story is learn to use the gel packs given by Nikon in the SB800 & SB900s..... does the SB700 have the color correction gels included?? I was testing the SB900 color correction gels at an event recently and found that even with the gels and settings, a lil tweak is still needed to get the WB to look 'right'  rclxub.gif
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Checked out the Nikon.my website...
The SB-700 does comes with filter set
lwliam
post Aug 9 2011, 09:59 PM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Aug 9 2011, 06:05 PM)
You obviously have not encountered problems with matching the flash WB with the ambient WB or p[robably do not realise that is a problem in the first place. If you do not correct the WB light from your flash to match the ambient lighting, you will get different colour lighting from the ambient and from your flash in your pics. Correcting WB on the subject in PP (as a result of light source from the flash) will produce horrible outcome on the background and vice versa.
If vearn27 wasn't using flash, doing custom WB would be the best. But if you use the default flash in tungsten ambient lighting, you would have problems getting correct WB in your pics if your flash is not WB corrected.
Like I mentioned in my reply above, even PP in RAW would give horrible "corrected" WB in PP if the flash WB is different from the ambient WB. Your method is correct if vearn27 does not shoot with flash.
Not possible if you use flash that is not WB corrected.
*
jchue73, yeah I was suggesting based on my assumption that a flash wasn't used. Hence, my suggestion of using custom WB.

Even if a flash was used and wasn't color corrected, in a shoot-and-submit event, the subject's WB is of priority (the skin tone in this case). The background will have to be in the warm state as it is so as long the subject is good.

Vearn, the metering modes does not govern how the skintone looks like, just how bright/dark the skin tone will be WITH RESPECT TO the surrounding ambient light. As for your issue
QUOTE
on how to capture the color as accurately as possible for straight out from camera photos
, the safest way is to bring along a clean sheet of A4 paper and measure the WB off it on the spot. If the lighting color changes in your event space, this will be a lot of hassle. This is where learning your Kelvin WB setting comes in handy, a quick adjustment to how you see the light at that point of time and you will get a close enough guesstimation of the Kelvin values. This comes with practice. In events, i tend to use wide-area and centre weighted metering, very seldom i use spot metering, unless that the subject fills the entire frame. I adapt my WB settings to different situations.

eg.
wedding dinner halls with loads of warm tungsten light: i gel my flash to match and uses the kelvin settings to compensate for the warm flash light.
concerts with crazy lights: AWB with no flash (this works the best), if flash is needed, i use flash WB setting.
outdoors sunny/cloudy: AWB (my in camera AWB for these situations give spot on WB without me worrying)
hall with fluorescent lights: custom WB and try to keep my shutter speed at 1/50s or slower so that it completes the shot withing a sine cycle of the power grid's frequency of 50Hz

see when you are free, gimme a ring, could meet up and go do some shooting or yum cha (on you) lol...

This post has been edited by lwliam: Aug 9 2011, 10:14 PM
timeonce
post Aug 9 2011, 10:09 PM

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HI may i ask which is the best for a noob like me. Planning to get 5100D for RM2300 with stock lens. Or is it better to get 7000d instead ? Any good lens or starter package for a newbie ?
aronliew
post Aug 9 2011, 10:10 PM

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tehee i just bought my d3100 ^.^
vearn27
post Aug 9 2011, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Aug 9 2011, 09:59 PM)
jchue73, yeah I was suggesting based on my assumption that a flash wasn't used. Hence, my suggestion of using custom WB.

Even if a flash was used and wasn't color corrected, in a shoot-and-submit event, the subject's WB is of priority (the skin tone in this case). The background will have to be in the warm state as it is so as long the subject is good.

Vearn, the metering modes does not govern how the skintone looks like, just how bright/dark the skin tone will be WITH RESPECT TO the surrounding ambient light. As for your issue , the safest way is to bring along a clean sheet of A4 paper and measure the WB off it on the spot. If the lighting color changes in your event space, this will be a lot of hassle. This is where learning your Kelvin WB setting comes in handy, a quick adjustment to how you see the light at that point of time and you will get a close enough guesstimation of the Kelvin values. This comes with practice. In events, i tend to use wide-area and centre weighted metering, very seldom i use spot metering, unless that the subject fills the entire frame. I adapt my WB settings to different situations.

eg.
wedding dinner halls with loads of warm tungsten light: i gel my flash to match and uses the kelvin settings to compensate for the warm flash light.
concerts with crazy lights: AWB with no flash (this works the best), if flash is needed, i use flash WB setting.
outdoors sunny/cloudy: AWB (my in camera AWB for these situations give spot on WB without me worrying)
hall with fluorescent lights: custom WB and try to keep my shutter speed at 1/50s or slower so that it completes the shot withing a sine cycle of the power grid's frequency of 50Hz

see when you are free, gimme a ring, could meet up and go do some shooting or yum cha (on you) lol...
*
Need more practice with this WB thingy. I'm still far from achieving even the near good result of WB settings. I totally have not much understanding in tuning my WB except placing the gel on my flash.

The situation I was in... it started shooting indoor from evening with a lot of windows allowing lights from outside. Then when it reaches night, yellowish and white lights all around the places and some dim area. Ceiling and wall, some area with and some area without to bounce the flash. Really a tough situation to handle with my skill level at the moment sweat.gif

Yumcha surely no problem, need more guidance and tips from the guru biggrin.gif
MichaelJohn
post Aug 9 2011, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(aronliew @ Aug 9 2011, 10:10 PM)
tehee i just bought my d3100 ^.^
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Welcome to the yellow camp laugh.gif

QUOTE(vearn27 @ Aug 9 2011, 10:31 PM)
Need more practice with this WB thingy. I'm still far from achieving even the near good result of WB settings. I totally have not much understanding in tuning my WB except placing the gel on my flash.

The situation I was in... it started shooting indoor from evening with a lot of windows allowing lights from outside. Then when it reaches night, yellowish and white lights all around the places and some dim area. Ceiling and wall, some area with and some area without to bounce the flash. Really a tough situation to handle with my skill level at the moment sweat.gif

Yumcha surely no problem, need more guidance and tips from the guru biggrin.gif
*
As what i know off , need to know based on your surroundings...
especially indoors , whether the walls are light or dark painted...
adriansyc
post Aug 10 2011, 12:40 AM

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i jz get d5100..


This post has been edited by adriansyc: Aug 10 2011, 02:09 AM
gnome
post Aug 10 2011, 01:15 AM

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Dayummm....been using this 35mm F2D for few hours now and starting to fell in love with it cry.gif laugh.gif

user posted image

Taken wide open @ 3200 ISO. Just love the FOV compared to 50mm biggrin.gif
ResQ
post Aug 10 2011, 05:36 AM

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anyone know how can i get this in malaysia? http://www.lenscoat.com/lenscoatsuptmsup-n...200-p-1007.html

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