How far are you from the subject when you used the focus and recompose method on your 85G? I'm still trying to figure out my error using the said method which causes my desired focus spot slightly soft or wrongly focused.

Regarding the PRE WB shoot and save thingy, I read it up from the D7000 manual that the shot will ONLY BE SAVED to slot D-0 even though you have selected other slot to take the PRE WB shoot. However, you could copy the setting from D-0 to the extra banks D-1 ~ D-5 slots.

Care to share what or how you do your presets? Your photos tones have been amazing

Well, if you noticed the latest P7100, the high-end consumer camera has 3 slots instead ! I'm not sure if I overlooked it wrongly, but I saw U1, U2 and U3 being available on the dial.

I'm not sure if I'm getting your statement wrong, but while on the AWB you can press the WB button and rotate the dial to adjust from A6 - A1 and B1 - B6 on the top LCD. Only AWB though...

What ISO did you shoot that? If it was bright enough, I would have still tried to use the non-crossed sensors. With a G lens on a D700, chances on accuracy is higher also.

No. With the D90, you still can only save the measured WB at d-0. You can copy them to d1-d4 as with other bodies.

maybe its country specific?
D700 also had 24-120 f/4 as kit lens.

A77 also is now their flagship APS-C model right? so perhaps they want to introduce the 16-50 which is also a new lens at the same time...

errr, my share of recomposition after lock, it takes experience, to actually uses it, in the past, F1.4 i recompose, sure out of focus, but today, i can do it and still maintaining sharp at the point i wanted to focus. i know this sound funny, but experience somehow let ur body automatically react to do things rite.

thats with the kit, and everyone knows lens is cheaper if packaged with kit.
if lens alone is $799.
still have to see the features of it tho, but at its price point its definitely going to give the tamron a good run.

Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 with OS will cost over RM2.4K (for official set)?

If any case, hope to see Nikon & Canon will counter this, which will benefit the DX users.

Nice razer gal

Sifu(s) lately i played alot of Pre WB, i can say my shoots now are much better, less lightroom adjustment for WB.

A noob question here: Is it advisable to print out grey card? if it is, is there a standard colour to follow or any grey colour would do? As I did some reading in DP forums they mention grey is better than white card O.O(I blur already)

Can someone help me clear my doubts

i mean, the body knows to move around when recompose to compasate the error.... er i dunno how to say this la... i use FF 50mm at F1.4, thats hell of shallow DOF. subject maintain sharp, and i know my unit doesnt has those tracking thing.... not everyone can felt it. because i understand my camera very well like my arm and leg, so i can somehow, do it.

A video I make as a marketing dept trainee using D5100, kit lens(because of Vr) and iso 1600. I need get some feedback . Certain part are long as my boss wants it that way

I'd advice for you to go to shop or nikon centre to try out both lenses 1st and see which suits you better. Bring a friend/model along to test out the angle of view.

A year ago, I had the same question like you, even worse, I don't even know what's the difference between 2, I know both are fast prime lenses, until I went to J-One, grab a 50mm because I thought it's cheap (RM380), and overlooked the field of view.

When I reached home, I just realized the frame is much tighter than my kitlens as that time I haven't realized myself being a portrait shooter yet (Problem 1). Going f/1.8 sure is nice, at first trying it out on a few small objects which such a shallow DOF wows me.

There I started my adventure with my 50 f/1.8D. I bring it out for a test, and it was Christmas month. As you can imagine, so many Christmas lights and they are perfect candidate for Bokehlicious photos, and because I do not know what is the sweet spot all about, I was greedy and shoot everything wide open (at f/1.8 - Problem 2), and because I am still not used to prime yet, zooming with my feet feels troublesome, and also such a tight field of view, makes things much more frustrating.

Then come KLIMS. Again, shooting everything wide open, and finally realized why many of my shots looks so blurry. Colors desaturated even.

Finally about a month later, only I have realized that I shouldn't go wide open when using the prime. When going for a shooting at DLE 2010, the first time I was shooting PC fair showgirls, I tested again by shooting at f/2.8, f/2.2 and f/2. Oh, my! the sharpness of f/2.8 only made me realized the optimal use of my prime before I almost left it into my dark closet. From that point onwards, it has been my favourite portrait lens, though tight but good enough to cover the subject.

I think different people have different thoughts, but that was my 2 months of learning about prime lens the hard way.

I think prior understanding of the lens first (characteristics, field of view, etc) is better because a lens is like a paintbrush. You have to use the right brush for the art you are making, so you have to know what pros and cons of the lens that can do to achieve the picture you want. Again, sometimes, getting a real feel of the lens is more important, as what lwliam mentioned.

Don't forget that the 50mm1.8g is an fx lens so it's 75mm on a dx camera and 35mm I'd a dx lens

adui to conclude it all:

-50mm f/1.8G and D is FF lens, can be use in DX camera. if put on DX camera it will be around 85mm?
-50mm f/1.8G is overall better than F/1.8D, but price also of course expensive than D.
-35mm f/1.8G is a dx lens, but actually the focal length in FF is around 52mm.
- beside the focal length, you also have to consider the minimal focus range, DOF, usable aperture range, focus speed, etc.
- since you are asking which one are niftier, and well we don't know what you are confused about, so ya for pages long we come out so many opinions there XD
- in the end, the best result is you bring your camera kaki and then go camera shop to test it.

   

Probably... skills and techniques mature as more and more practices on shooting along the time. By the way, which of the 39 points in D7000 are cross sensors?
No matter whether the lens is DX or FX.... putting the lens on a DX body will resultant in 1.5x of the lens focal length.

Therefore, 35mm DX lens on DX body will become 35mm x 1.5 = 52.5mm equivalent on FX.

I thought Nikon is filling up the new D400/D800 with 16mp sensors?

Edit: Perhaps maybe the D3S/X replacement?

yaya, but the 24mp camera missing  may be they do not want fight with sony with another 24mp at the same time, hard to draw attention same day

no, they suppose to announce the new mirrorless,  but due to tsunami, they delayed the mirrorless, then everything also delayed, even D400. D800/4 will be next year story.

next year is a real war year in FF, Canikon + Sony. will be interesting year for FF lover.

the a77's speed has already bypassed the D3s and 1Dmk4...waiting for the final review..

1dMk4 isn't exactly full frame right? So let's leave the D3s out of the equation for now 

Canon and Nikon have decided to stop production for 1D Mark IV and D3s liao because A77 with 12fps beats both cameras flat.

 

Just tried out the bracketing function... D7000 equipped with 3aeb compared with 9aeb for the semi-pro bodies and above.

Well... I thought with one click and will capture 3 photos altogether. But it's only one per shutter

Or should I use CL (Continuous Low) to capture all 3 shots per single shutter click?

Is the sitre reliable?

I m thinking to COD with LYN seller tomorrow..

out of my budget.

looks like everyone prefer 550D more than D3100. i need to reconsider

haha something's good coming

http://nikonrumors.com/2011/08/29/nikon-pr...ng-engine.aspx/