loool you active in this thread ah, photographer too?

Gonna do a bit something else...

I haz evil plan

No, i dun even hold camera for months. i know talk crap only
just a hobbyist shoot my nendos and PVC figures.

Sorry for the previous upstir, hoe there's a silver lining from the discussion; Nonetheless, it's all informative.

Yea, but I prefer the ambient as well as getting other people in the frame/scene to expose well, so it's kind of a challenge especially when the main subject is directly under the strong light.
The main problem is, the camera seems to focus on the background instead, probably due to not enough contrast; I only notice it AFTER, since it was an event with short period of time, no time to review, just keep snapping, but I did keep re-acquire focus every now and then just in case, but seems most of it suffers the same problem.

Another way would be focus somewhere else of roughly the same distance; but kinda easy to say than do especially during the event.

Hmm... You're right, some of the lights were indeed much "whiter"; Good point, must be more aware of the surroundings...


Just walking in... f/1.4 I worry it might be hard to get the person in focus as the person is walking.
In AF-S and with shutter-release when in focus option, it won't fire unless it acquires focus; Kind of annoying sometimes as it won't fire when you saw the moment there during walking in.
In AF-C, the shutter-release option selected was not require focus to lock, so I'll need to personally control the shutter and make sure it's really in focus else the shots are just waste. Sometimes, annoyed, with Nikon AF-S with focus override, I manually focus it, but then, in it may seem in focus in the frame, but actual it might not.

Any good tips for walking-in or people moving shots? Moving fast would be even harder.

Same here; in LR, I prefer to use Vibrance, but somehow, it may somehow affect the WB? I mean, the yellow/green tint become more obvious in the skin tones.

As for contrast, it affects the skin tones quite badly, especially the shadow areas, the eye backs, etc, may not be so obvious when viewed in small resolution; Sometimes kinda hard to decide as too little contrast, the picture seems more dull or less "oomph".

Kind of agree with you; A photo is more about the feel or how good it looks to people eyes. I'm not technical person as in those technique, rules, etc. As looking at the picture, honestly, sorry to say, I don't feel anything special too. It looks like the subject was cut and paste into the background? Well, just saying what I saw, and it's different feel from those samples from the website provided.

Of course, there's no right or wrong, as long as the person and client is happy with the photo. As I previously explain, some pictures is more of an ART, and an ART may not be appreciated by everyone or suit everyone's taste.
It maybe a hard to capture scene and he may have done it very well, but the results may not be everyone's taste. It's not really about how hard to capture and requires high technical skills to do, it's more about the results.

Cool; Haven't played around with each color channel yet.

Like I said, it is up to the photographer. What style you want to do? if under strong lighting then you got no choice but to fill flash or don't use at all. If fill flash, different temperature then color gel is the only way. But then again, your color gel might not match with the lighting afterall.

What is your method of focusing? Single point? Area mode?

yea im from KK

that cell number is like 7 years ago

anyway who is using film body here ?

adui shoot that for what. you should gone shooting things like Aira or... HARDOGAY YUHUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!

Yea, that's why I was thinking if there's other ideas/solution.

Single point on the subject as she's the main person for the event.
The other way I know is to focus on somewhere about the same distance, but I find it's may not always be so easy on the field, especially if using wider aperture; plus during the "short" moment, usually we rush to capture it. Already tried re-acquire focus few times, seems all/most locks onto the background instead. Maybe I should try focus on the body which have better contrast and not affected by the strong light

Not a whole lot i would say...

All went to digital terus right after no need use kodak one

you mean FM2 ar?

I am in KK too

D90 user here

I still don't get it. So far, I have no issue with my lens focusing on background. They focus where I want it to be because I am using single point focusing. I determine where the focus is. The only time OOF for me is when my lens don't focus accurately, images appears soft (front focus or back focus slightly). But not until focus to background. I only have that kinda issue when I was using Area Mode when I started photography. But not after I started with single focus.

Oh wait, the only time I might get background focusing is, when doing continuous focusing and my subject leaves my AF point too long causing it to focus background instead.

I guess it's more related to below issue;
https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/ans...etail/a_id/4585

The camera is unable to obtain focus due to not enough contrast? I'm not sure how it lock to the background IF the focus point does not go out of the subject. If the subject is far away and thus small, and the focus point is bigger than the subject, I know there's tendency of the focusing on the background. But for my case, if I remember correctly, the subject is still bigger than the AF point... UNLESS, the AF Point "actual" size is not that small.....

You will only encounter this when you use area mode. So, start using single point. Take full control of your camera la...

I use "Single" Point, never use Area mode....

See the article again, it also can happen for single point:
"If the focus area contains objects at different distances from the camera, such as Subject is inside a cage. The two different distances read by the same sensor will confuse the AF system."

"If the main subject in the focus brackets is relatively small, such as a person standing in front of a distant background. This may result in the background being in focus, while the subject is out of focus. This is more likely to occur when a wide angle lens is used."

My case, if I remember correctly, the subject appears bigger than the focus point (which I'm using the center here), but only slightly bigger if I'm not wrong. So, it's possible that the Focus Point actual size is bigger than what we see in the camera? Else, I'm not sure what's wrong, unless I remember wrongly.

Anyway, next time need to be more careful for such situation, perhaps can try focus on the body/clothes which have better contrast to ensure the focus lock correctly.

So far, no such problem on my D90/D700 yet. Not even on the 1635 or even my kit lens 18105.

hye

can suggest me wireless trigger for di622?

TTL or Non-TTL?

YongNuo RF-603 is very good

Can get from me

ttl

compatible or not with nissin di622?

Hi every1! just a quick question here. Im planning to get a D7000 soon as a new entry. Should I start off with 50mm 1.8G or 18-105mm VR or 18-200 VRII?

Im interested in shooting on streets, faces, portrait and bokeh shots.

I've read from a website saying as a starter should get a prime lens to learn. Then sooner find out what kinda lens i will need. Is that true?