CAn anyone tell me bout the RMS things ?? like the AMP 4 x 60 rms @ 4ohm , and the component rms 125v , sub rms 150v ...
AMP how many rms can power the speaker and sub of how many rms ??

usually try to match it as close as possible, but on the other hand some manufacturers overrate their ratings, the high end ones underrate them

for subs usually feed power more than the sub's rms rating

joe, go to www.bcae1.com and study. this question had been asked a million times.

lets say my component is 125v rms and sub is 150 rms ... then my AMP is 4ohm 60v rms x 4 ...

then im using 2 x 60v to power my sub and bridge another 2 channel to power the sub right ???

so for component the v is lesser and should be enough for the sub right ???

and when the component writes 125v rms means both side 125v or 125v each side ??

thanks.


thanks but I don know which topic to look through to learn bout the matching the RMS.

When ur each component wrote 125watt 4Ω, you need at least 125watt RMS [nonimal watt power from amplifier] to get better performance.

Its not both 125watt RMS, its each 6.5" speaker n tweeter.

All you need, is MRP-F550 Alpine suitable for ur comp set n your SW
500 watts, 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 ohms: 90 watts x 4 channels
2 ohms: 125 watts x 4 channels
Bridged, 4 ohms: 250 watts x 2 channels
Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 50 kHz
Subsonic Filter: 15 Hz
Crossover Frequency: 50 - 400 Hz
MOSFET power supply
STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
Gold-plated screw terminals
Speaker and preamp-level inputs
Preamp outputs
fuse rating: 30A x 2

As your SW nominal 150watt peak i think can go until 300watt so its suitable for you to bridge it AB Class Amplifier.

Or you can use better one PDX 4.150 keke... can even add 1 more 150watt SW at your rear
4-Channel Power Density Digital Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 ohms bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.
Class D amplifier design
Stackable installation design with front-panel controls
Quick-connect speaker connectors
HP/LP Crossover: 30 Hz - 400 Hz, 12dB/oct.
CEA-2006 Compliant
MOSFET power supply
Stackable installation design with front-panel controls
Continuously adjustable gain control
Top mounted blue LED power/status indicator
4-Layer glass epoxy PC board

150 watts x 2 channel go for the front component left n right then 150 watts x 2 channel pump your SW 2 pcs haha nice or not ?
Just help you find another good amp ^^

This post has been edited by Kar Leong: Apr 15 2010, 06:41 PM

each side requires 125w rms @ 4ohm. so just look for a matching amp dat can give u around 100w rms @ 4ohm per channel. remember joe, bigger amps need bigger cables. thus, more expensive installtion... yea, ICE is all abt money.
at bcae1, go to the 8.ohm to learn more. know the ohm law, and match the rms watts rating accordingly. this site is very helpful if u really wan to learn more, slowly read 1 by 1. know u r lazy to read up thus asking the bonus question.

Good explanation ! Thank you so much

Learn a lot things de. This will help me in looking for a suitable AMP.

And I still a beginner. Got any cheaper choice ?? heh

Found this :
MA AUDIO MA-60.4iX 4 Channel Amplifier

110w rms x 4 @ 4 Ohm
220w rms x 4 @ 2 ohm
max power : 1800w PMPO
full MOFSET power supply
PWM Circuit
4 Gauge Power / Ground Connections
Full selectable crossover : High/Flat/Low
4/2 ohm stable stereo
LPF 50-250hz
HPF 120-3khz
variables 12db bass boost at 40hz
freq response 10-30khz +/-3db
power bandwidth 18hz-22khz
S/N Ration : 98db
T.H.D 0.02%
Chorme Plated RCA Jack & Terminals.

Hahaa Thanks to you too

Yea lazy to read through one by one. Thanks for the bonus

This post has been edited by joequah1: Apr 15 2010, 09:15 PM

MA AUDIO MA-60.4iX 4 Channel Amplifier
Max power : 1800w PMPO

My opinion, this amp underpowered rate

Note:- Some amplifier does not show the nominal RMS per channel, some even fake information. Personally i think the ma audio is 60.4 mean 60watt RMS nominal, its only show 110watt peak per channel
Conclusion end-up like this, front component speaker 125 watts, like that either ur MA Audio starting not enough power, amp heat-up then circuit will cut the power (protection light come out always) OR when underpowered amp run out of steam, not enough power supply to output tube [mean ur comp set] when those devices reach their maximum output voltage, the signal gets clipped.

The waveform of the output then contains a huge amount of DC voltage, sometimes at very high voltage levels relative to the levels seen when the signal is behaving itself as AC.
This DC voltage (and the other trash thrown out by the clipping devices) is what does the damage. The voice coil of a speaker is actually a motor. When it sees DC current, the motion of the voice coil stops, or "stalls". When this happens, instead of acting as an inductor, the voice coil basically becomes a piece of wire, and the amplifier sees that piece of wire as a dead short. This causes a spiral of death. The short demands more current from the amp, which it can't deliver, and it clips even harder.

Meanwhile the voicecoil is heating up from the increased current, and the lack of any cooling fanning motion, and poof - puff of smoke, and no more voice coil. Even a microscopic burn can sometimes kill a voice coil.
This is why, when used and applied properly, it is always better to have more amplifier than needed. Clipping is much more destructive than a small amount of overpowering.

One last note - loud is not always better, but the only way to get really loud is to have a larger driver, larger box or more boxes. A bookshelf teensy driver and billion watt amp is never going to push the air mass that a big box and an appropriate amp will move.

I had broke my Cermin Vega 12" 1 pair in twin console box before ^^ because the amp underpowered.

Thanks for teaching me new things again.

Then how bout Caliber CA 4540 2400watt 4 channel

stereo output 90w rms x 4 .

Found a lot over the Net but don know good or not.

can i ask that...if i change the audio system of persona elegance...is my warranty void??my fren say he wont cut the wire de ...im thinking to change it to touch screen ..coz the player is very cacated with usb port alone there = =...any 1 can advice me? and persona din is totally different with my myvi..coz just take out whole din and fix single din with new player inside.not sure persona elegance how...tq

thinking to change this DLAA dual din, coz i realized if i put single din wit 7", the LCD will block the aircond when it's on , so only can put dual din... budget RM7xx-8xx

Hii everyone, im new in ICE and my friend gave me a
12" bazooka EL1204 woofer
chapalak 2 channel amp
monster preamp
Went to accecory shop and install it with RM250 1meter RCA wire for the amp and a cheap RCA wire for the pre amp. then he suggest me to take the Mohawk Crystal 6.2 6.5" set first without amp.
the bass from the woofer not very nice when high volume, if low volume then still ok. its sound like bom bom bom bruuuuu bruuuu...

BTW i my car is kenari and using stock HU. then the woofer box design got curve so i put my woofer facing to my car back door. should i put it face to roof?
about the woofer, I need to change HU, amp for woofer or add a crossover?

This post has been edited by Tingwei89: Apr 18 2010, 11:10 PM

roundedfly, i dont think your persona can fit that DLAA double din unit..

tingwei89, i tot u already have chapalang 2ch amp for the woofer. anyway, for your next upgrade get a 4ch amp to replace that 2ch amp, then u can run both you front speakers and the sub. if got more budget then yes, try change hu, will make a lot of difference, crossover not necessary, the amp's hi-pass & lo-pass filters should be sufficient for now.

then got any other recommand? im thinking to remove the player 1nce i get the new car...tq

i just called one installer he said possible la, have to potong-2 a bit, if u want it nicer, they can use some fiberglass to touch it up...

Hi guys,
(a very new to ICE member here...)
wanna replace my Satria Neo stock speaker...and add a amp.
change player with supporting ipod. n can play video with lcd screen..

any great stuff..

got money will travel (ada duit semua boleh)

all the sifu's,i wanna ask,how to see the tweets is good anot ah by oni reading the graph??
so if compare tis2 graph,can noe which1 better ah?lol..thx in advance...
p/s:so how to noe the frequency range from the graph ah??=x any article to ease out my question?





This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 26 2010, 01:55 AM

of cos the 2nd one is better. see how linear the response is till 20kHz. the first one has a big spike at 5kHz. even if u install at 90 degrees angle it still can't play linear up to 20kHz.

owh,is c the upper1 ah??but not the btm1??the btm1 is impedance rite??so meaning dat impedance higher the better??thx alot bro,btw what is axis installation??isit mount at the pillar?tq...

p/s:i have edit the question,coz my eyes got prob,lol...

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 26 2010, 02:20 AM

not sure wats the bottom one indicates. i juz look at the freq response at diff angle. u see 0, 90 and 180, those are the angle pointed at u, at 0 degress it's called on axis means directly pointing at u. off axis means pointing away from u. i dunno why the first one on axis is 180 degress, usually it's 0 degree. to know if it's on axis, juz see the graph with the furthest extension and highest peak, those are usually on axis cos u dun lose freq due to angle problem. altho some tweets are more suitable for off axis installation. juz refer to this type of graph to know wat it is capable of.