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 Need recommendation/advise for my caraudio system, pls use this thread in the future

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Wuakaka
post Apr 25 2008, 12:47 AM

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erm,guys,i'm kinda noob in ice here,i'm juz wondering why they are different numbers of RCA pre-outs?if i already installed side door panel speaker and using the ori speaker at rear now,(in future i might upgrade to 2 way speaker or 3 way),therefore,i need which type of HU


p/s:not planning to install sub woofer as i am not a bass fan,more to sound quality
Wuakaka
post Apr 25 2008, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(bafukie @ Apr 25 2008, 05:15 PM)
Depends on ur budget. mid end pioneer HU comes with 3 rca pre out i think. Heres my thought:

2 way active : u need 2 rca preout for front & 1 for bass
3 way active: u need 4 rca preout ( 3 for front and 1 for bass)

take note sound quality is never complete without sub.  nod.gif
*
thank you very much,so that means i will need amp and woofer plus 2 way speaker in the future, hmm.gif hmm.gif

thx once more
Wuakaka
post Nov 9 2009, 02:55 AM

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brothers and sisters,all sifu,i need help here in choosing sq subwoofer,pls check the following subwoofer i listed below,which1 most value for $$??let say helix and the eclipse1 brand new around Rm 500,lightning audio 2nd hand Rm 350
Helix (Germany) Deep Blue 12 inch SVC Subwoofer
Eclipse (Japan) 12 inch DVC Subwoofer
Lightning Audio Bolt B2.12.8 subwoofer
Wuakaka
post Nov 19 2009, 09:04 PM

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guys,i need help here,recently i get lanzar vibe 241 which is
SPECS
# 2 x 250 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms
# 2 x 500 Watts Max @ 4 Ohms
# 1 x 1000 Watts Max @ 4 Ohms Bridged
# 2 x 420 Watts @ 2 Ohms RMS

i tot of use it to pump single impact 37

3712-04
Subwoofer da 320 mm
Gamma utile: 20 รท 300 Hz
Potenza RMS/Picco: 190/380 W
Bobina da: 50 mm 4 layer
Impedenza: 1 x 4 Ohm

but juz now the boss said dat the amp is too powerful for the woofer,he asked me to get mb quart woofer which has 800 watt rms,isit true????

thx in advance, notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Nov 19 2009, 09:07 PM
Wuakaka
post Nov 19 2009, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Nov 19 2009, 09:25 PM)
Ask the boss to fly kite. His intention is just want to make money from you.
Basicly, more power is better, considering your amp's quality is unknown. I feel the amp is overrated, actual it might not pump out so much power.
By lowering your amp's gain to minimum, you still can use the sub. Infact, it will be better as you no need to stress your amp. It will be ignoring if your amp cut when too hot.
*
hmm,so it's ok la if i use the lanzar amp to pump single impact 37???coz the mb quart will easily cost me >1k, sweat.gif sweat.gif
Wuakaka
post Nov 19 2009, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(MyWifeCar @ Nov 19 2009, 09:49 PM)
Nicely done...  rclxms.gif
*
erk,do u have any comment as well??=x
Wuakaka
post Nov 19 2009, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Nov 19 2009, 10:08 PM)
Yup, you won't have problem with Lanzar amp to power your Impact sub.
If you change the sub, he will be making rm1000(if the MBQ sub is rm1k), then you will have not enough juice. Then he will ask you to change amp that he got, another rm1000. And when you put to full blast, lights startng to dim, add a cap for another rm500.
At the end, you wasted rm2500 where in the first place you no need to change anything, just a little bit tuning will solve all the problem. This is what a typical acc shop boss will do, slaughter you slowly.
*
thx alot bro!!! notworthy.gif notworthy.gif do u have any recommendation for audio shop that is honest in klang valley??

currently i have a component set which is rainbow slx tweets,morel cross over,dls c6 mid bass,will use the lanzar RK-1000-4C to pump it,isit ok???

Lanzar RK-1000-4C

* 4 x 125 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
* 4 x 250 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
* 2 x 500 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
* 4 x 225 Watts RMS at 2 Ohms

and then has a lanzar vibe 241 mentioned juz now,thinking to pump impact 37(havent get yet),and 4 channel rca monster cable

thinking to mount the 2 amp at boot behind the seat,so need to custom a board i tink,the boss juz now quoted me Rm 520 for everything,isit reasonable???(not include the woofer) rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Nov 19 2009, 10:28 PM
Wuakaka
post Nov 20 2009, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Nov 20 2009, 10:01 AM)
Wuakaka : Basicly I'm still looking for such installer, but too bad to say that, I can't find 1.
There's no such thing of honest acc shop. Just only have to see how much they want to slaugther you. But normally they make the most from wiring where their profit margin can be as high as 1000%. So if you want to get good quality and cheap wires/cables, best is source it from US or local electronic shops like Farnell or RS Malaysia.
rm520 just for a board to hang 2 amps? That's way expensive, what type of board they are using? Mind to specify clearly? If they make everything in then it should be ok, else is better you buy the MDF yourself, 4'*8'*0.4" will do. With that, you can make rear seat board and boot board. Still got some balance for another car if you know how to cut.
*
hmm,i list out everything then,thx to all the sifu here 1st, notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

install front component labour Rm 50
install 2 amps labour Rm 90
power supply+wiring,hot wire/speaker wire RM 250(by using 4 gauge cable to boot)
1 2 way adapter Rm 55
1 mdf board Rm 80

total Rm 520(might up to Rm 600)


Added on November 20, 2009, 12:19 pm
QUOTE(zennn @ Nov 20 2009, 12:06 PM)
i can take u to one of the shops i used to work for, for me he's quite honest and very experienced, old man made his name long time ago no need to resort to cheating....have to protect reputation one...
*
bro,mind to give further details on it???as i am still surveying for reliable audio shops,haiz..

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Nov 20 2009, 12:21 PM
Wuakaka
post Nov 20 2009, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Nov 20 2009, 12:31 PM)
I think the hot wire is RCA?
Install front component new or you already have the baffle? For rm50 if just take out the old speaker and put in new speaker without changing the baffle, it is not worth.
Install the amps and the board should put together, not seperate charging.
The board is too expensive(rm80 can buy you a MDF board as said ealier) if just the board without carpet.
The 1 to 2 can try to nego for abit cheaper, say rm40.
*
kenot be it's rca cable wor,coz i got 4 channel rca monster cable ad

dun have baffle wor,so new baffle gua

the mdf board i ask my fren,he said with sound proofing wor the board,need Rm 80 ka?????

i damn blur ad now,hope my hard earning saving $$ wont gone for nth,zzzz
Wuakaka
post Dec 11 2009, 01:48 PM

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dear sifu's,i have installed my stuff not long ago,now i am facing a problem,when the volume is 0,i can listen sumth like buzzer sound,i have gone thru the previous thread,and the answer is the noise could be coming from the amp or the grounding,but according to the installer,it says that is because of my head unit,so my question is,isit reli my head unit problem or i need to re wire it all over again??or could be the thd of the amp is reli bad?damn i so blur now

rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

Pioneer DEH-P5750MP(gonna upgrade it i guess,lol)
lanzar RK-1000-4C 1000W amp
lanzar vibe 241 1000w
a caps
subwoofer bm vtk s 12

oh ya,thx in advance,pls help me... blush.gif blush.gif

p/s:the rca cable from hu to boot is not long enuff,so in addition,they uses connector and connect new rca cable so that can be connected to the amp,could be this prob?? notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Dec 11 2009, 01:53 PM
Wuakaka
post Dec 12 2009, 12:44 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Dec 11 2009, 05:09 PM)
Wuakaka : Guess your HU's pre-out's pico fuse blown. Fastest way is wrap a wire on the RCA and short it back to HU's chasis. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.c...ID=IXOS-R600-4M
Should change your RCA. If got credit card, try the above RCA from US. Should able to fit your budget.

sang_karim : You may keep your stock speakers and just change HU directly for a start. Pioneer 4150 is not bad, 7" wide screen, anti-glare.. SHould cost between rm2800-3000. But you have to change the bracket in order to fits in. Suggest to survey few shops before commiting to buy it. Then when you have more budget only add amp and change speakers.
*
bro,meaning dat the sound is coming from the rca cable itself???or is the hu pre out pico fuse blown??if i oni change the hu,will minimize the buzzer sound??or is a must to change the cable,thx
Wuakaka
post Dec 12 2009, 01:42 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Dec 12 2009, 01:37 AM)
Best way is try to get a long length of RCA which will eliminate future noise issue.
Noise issues is case by case, there's too much possibilties. But since you have a Pioneer HU, so is good to have a check on that first.
*
got it bro,tq so much.... notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
Wuakaka
post Jan 10 2010, 12:59 PM

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brothers and sisters,and dear all sifu,finally i got extra $$ to upgrade my head unit,after confirming that my head unit is making the unpleasant noise,so juz wan to have a quick check with all the sifu's,

p80 or blaupunkt mp74 bremen better??coz both 2nd hand price is the same,my preference is wanna have a warmer sound,1 more question,has more band of digital graphic equalizer is better rite??thx in advance,soli for many question here, notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

http://www.pioneermalaysia.com.my/product_details.php?id=191

Product Features of mp74 bremen

Made in Portugal
TwinCeiver with DDA
DSA Max
TIM
Full graphic high resolution display
VarioColour
FM,MW,LW,SW (49m)
MW interference suppression
TwinCeiver with DDA (Digital Directional Antenna)
RDS-EON-PTY
TIM
Radio Text
Digital selectivity enhancement (SHARX)
42 presets
Updated station list
CD
Playback of CD/CD-R/CD-RW/MP3
CD mix
CD-Text
Disc Management System (DMS)
MP3 playback from CD-ROM and CD-RW
Display of up to 128 directories
Filename display
Display of ID3 tags up to 30 characters (V1)
Supports variable bit rates (8-320 kbit)
Mix
Scan
Comfortable MP3 browsing
Motorised Flip release Panel
Softkey operating concept
154x64 pixel full graphic display with four grey scales
Extended demo mode with lots of animations
VarioColour with 4.096 colours
Display brightness/angle adjustment
Display out (via opt.Interface)
Clock (RDS)
Telephone Mute,TMC out
Dsc Management System (DMS)
Pre-equipped for telephone/navigation speech output
Night design VarioColour in 16 steps from red to green adjustable
Front design in silver-metallic with brushed aluminium profiles
metal coated volume encoder/joystick and softkeys
IR remote control (included)
window antenna included (borsch)
microphone for equalizer included
4 x 26 W RMS power/4 x 50 W Max.power
DSA Max (Digital Sound Adjustment)
Digital self-adjusting equaliser with 4 channels and 27 bands per channel (=108 bands in total)
Dynamic Noise Covering (DNC)
fully adjustable time alignment
variable highpass filters for front and rear channels
Sub-Out wth variable gain,frequency and phase in 45 degree steps
Rear Seat Audio function
Source-specific sound adjustment
2 auxiliary nput
variable X-Bass
4-channel Preamp-Out (5V),Center Out,Sub Out

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Jan 10 2010, 01:00 PM
Wuakaka
post Apr 5 2010, 01:58 AM

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brother and sister,recently when i juz slightly turn on higher my subwoofer lvl,then prob came out,at 1st is left mid bass no sound,then after few days,right mid bass no sound,what happen??
at 1st i tot is the 1 F capacitor behind spoilt ad,but i check on the net,it could be my battery and alternator,it seems like need 2 change,but changing to a bigger alternator will drag my car down,so if i change to bigger capacity battery or high ca battery,will it solve it??? cry.gif cry.gif
Wuakaka
post Apr 5 2010, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(craziechild @ Apr 5 2010, 04:43 PM)
wuakaka...

i dun think the power supply would have something to do with the no sound thingy...

is the amp still operational now? have you test it with another driver?
*
i went back to the shop i installed all my wires,he said my right mid bass spoiled,i am lagi blur now....

he took out the right mid bass,and use the ayam1,is working,so confusing man....he also use the multimeter and check my battery,my capacitor,he said no problem,he confirm is right mid bass problem wor?? rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

my question is,b4 tis the no sound issue,is randomly on every stuff,at 1st is left tweeter got the buzzing sound,then after dat left mid bass no sound,then until 1 day i raise the subwoofer lvl higher abit oni to listen bassy song 4 a while,then my right midbass no sound pulak...i seriously got no idea man...now the right mid bass is on his hand now,he will send it to service. icon_question.gif icon_question.gif


Added on April 5, 2010, 7:33 pm
QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 5 2010, 07:09 PM)
Wuakaka : Check back your wirings and then ditc the junk that killing your battery.
*
may i noe wat junk???my car oni has sound system,=x other than dat stock ad....

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 5 2010, 07:35 PM
Wuakaka
post Apr 5 2010, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(dvlzplayground @ Apr 5 2010, 10:59 PM)
how about u share here ur complete setup?

sometimes people tend to install stuff they dont need... this is bad because it makes the connection more messy, so they get more problems than they should

also send to a reputable shop, got certification etc. some shops tend to say this one spoil, that one spoil, n ask u to buy random stuff u dont need.
*
hmm,ok,rainbow slc 265 component,alpine 9887,alpine v 12 amp,lanzar vibe 241,cliff audio 1F cap,bm lab woofer...running active...
Wuakaka
post Apr 6 2010, 06:12 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 6 2010, 03:18 PM)
Wuakaka : The junk I meant was the capacitor.
*
if i remove the capacitor ad,then where the wire i should connect to??all to the battery??and how should i do dat??tq...
Wuakaka
post Apr 7 2010, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(dvlzplayground @ Apr 6 2010, 08:02 PM)
which alpine v12 amp is that?

if ur total system less than 2000W maybe u shud try running without a cap 1st. yes, run everything from the battery. for SQ setups should run fine, SPL im not sure

for flickering lights problem, check the grounding...

if still need cap, try connect it ur lanzer amp only 1st
*
the lanzar amp is 1000 watt,tis alpine amp i am not sure,i guess is 1000 watt too??but i read somewhere that if ur rms watt added up is 1000 watt,u need a 75AH battery....but my current battery now is oni 45AH...if i direct connect to battery,wont the distortion higher??


Added on April 7, 2010, 12:27 am
QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 6 2010, 08:17 PM)
Make your system as simple as possible is the best way to eliminate all possible problems. Bypass your cap and the +ve to your amp direct.
Lights dimming is due to your amp draw too much current until it affects the voltage on the battery(<12V). Alot of people says wire the sub at lower impedence to get more power is good, but it is wrong anyway. Because on such way, you really need a good and powerful monoblock amp else it will cause alot of unknown problem. The best way to prevent this is let your amp work 50% max from its rated capacity.
*
i wish dat i can diy by myself,but now the lanzar amp and the cap is hanging behind at the boot(alpine amp under front seat),so if i wan to connect all the wire direct to battery,i need a new wire for the lanzar amp to reach the battery isnt it?i tink the lanzar amp,the shop wired it at 4 ohm,and the gain is nearly 0,and btw bro,juz now i check my cap,is on,but no voltage rating,not blinking,isit spoilt??even i on my sound system,but still nth appear,oni when i start the car,the rating oni appear, notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 7 2010, 12:28 AM


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Wuakaka
post Apr 8 2010, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(craziechild @ Apr 7 2010, 01:37 AM)
thats normal on some caps... only shows voltage when there is a charging current...

anyways... my workflow for you...
1. check your wire conditions. seems to me that you have something like a faulty wires somewhere. from the power cable, RCA cable, speakers' cable...
2. dun think the cap is the culprit for a burnt mid... dun see the resemblance... never encounter cases like this before as well...
3. HU grounding... had one case where the HU grounding came off and the system just went hay wire from one condition to another... turns out the HU was taking ground from the HU chasis... not the wire... and its alpine HU...
4. and i hope its not this one... your gain settings? too high and it might just burnt your driver's VC... normal case when the gain is too high...
5. the last thing i would like to think... the amp just over-heated due to low voltage supplies... it turns on and off while music is playing... and one day it just decides to shuts down... happens to a lot of the V12 amps you show in the pic... especially the monos...

good luck...
cheers.gif
*
1st 1 checked,all my wires few months old oni..

2nd 1 clear

3rd 1 will ask acc shop to check it,

4th 1 kenot be,coz my gain very low oni...

5th 1,i guess tis is the problem,so i will change to 75Ah battery and c how it goes...

lastly,thx alot,if without all the advises,i feel like quitting ice ad......


Added on April 8, 2010, 12:18 am
QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 7 2010, 08:00 AM)
Nolah, what you need to do is just remove the cap's +ve terminal then -ve terminal. The -ve should its independent ground while the +ve you can connect to your amp directly.
*
ok,will do it tis saturday,tq..

p/s:dun la quarrel pls, cry.gif cry.gif

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 8 2010, 12:20 AM
Wuakaka
post Apr 11 2010, 01:21 PM

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hi guys,saturday i never manage to do anything,coz the shop too many cars,however he told me that the left right channel of tweets is not balance due to the speaker cable,isit related??then i am wondering about the software he told me,he say that it will show the signal of tweets,midbass and woofer,then tuning from there,he said it is better than u do imprint,but the thing is dat the signal thingy is rm 200 1 time,while imprint is standard rm 100,so i wonder isit worthwhile??tq....

p/s:i have changed to 75 Ah battery,the spare part shop uncle kinda shock, sweat.gif sweat.gif

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