To the oldman that still looking for arguement, nope, I'm respecting the old ones basically, if I cause him to get stroke(since that oldman like to eat alot of expensive but unhealthy food and have to rely on medicine to keep blood pressure low) and suddenly mycarhifi.com come a thread that "our brother youngaccordguy got stroke because like to argue with someone in forums" then it will be bad to me, but it will good to our local forum, the end of another dirty businesman that trying his best on making a living by conning newbies.
Added on April 8, 2010, 9:31 amQUOTE(Kar Leong @ Apr 8 2010, 02:13 AM)
Well i have to do this , recently i upgrade my ICE Setup example in my signature, within 2 week i almost spend more than 15k setup above; I would like to share my experience with you all;
First 1st lastweek i use Debezt monoblock 1000w bridge to 1Ω to kick 2 x Rockford Fosgate T112D4 DVC 4Ω Dual (which each sub need 600w-1200w peak) both sub woffer need 1200w
So i add another monoblock same brand Debezt, 2 monoblock kick 2 sub parellel-wiring but guess what ? The monoblock over heat / lighting protection come out and in / sometime have woofer sound sometime cut off

Yes if your monoblock underpower will coz overheat n auto cut-off; to solve this change better monoblock [more power needed in watt]
at last the monoblock still under warranty, so change to Shuttle LAB 1700W class D monoblock [Prokick sister?] and really can kick 2 sub-woofer with series-parallel wiring at 1Ω [really awesome]
Car Battery:- N70Z/L AH75 12v [upgrading done]
Car Alternator:- Stock Toyota Corolla SEG
Battery 12v >> in-line fuse (front bonet) >> Prokick 2.0cap (rear bonet beside monoblock) >> Shuttle Lab monoblock (rear bonet) +ve from capicitor >> 2sub
ALL Cable 4AWG, Grounding Cable same as 4AWG (less than 1feet) to vehicle body chasis, sub 8AWG cable
Recent add:- 5 Point Grounding 4AWG Cable to Alternator 1point, Engine chasis 2point, CarBody 2point (adding because due to the vehicle engine spark / idle / electricity no enough stable)
Testing 1 Week already;
SQ Slow music which bass sound come slow 1 by 1 okie no problem at all;
SPL Bass like continuously coming in second, headlight dimming problem; everything light dimming; monoblock totally suck all the battery watt;
Today just add another Prokick 2.0digital farad on the shuttle lab monoblock, its only help a bit
[lesser dimming problem]Future need to change bigger alternator / dynamo ? or got another way to solve this ?
Soon upgrade PXA-H100, Alpine minimum RMS per channel 100w 4Ω x 4 channel, throw away my 6x9" useless boston acoustic (tweeter quite harsh sound) haha...
Btw add Raizin Volt Stabilizer will its help or not ? Coz today testing on my car, like nothing special happen de (what use of this item?)
That's why I always says that, a capactior is a junk that only helps on seller's profit but seldom helps on buyer's problems..
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/electric...-capacitor.htmlA good readups on why capacitor are useless.
The problem with lights still dimming, it is because you wire your sub at lowest impedence. You should wire them atleast 2 or 4ohm. Bigger watt numbers does not means it will be good to your power supply system. Don't know why now still got people like to boil water from the amp(most of your power turned in to heat, not power to the sub)
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...en_US&p_status=If you read on the specs of the above amp, the efficiency drops when the impedence is lower. This is a branded SPL amp. SO for your amp the efficiency will be lower and you wired them for 1ohm.
Added on April 8, 2010, 9:35 amQUOTE(robinhood @ Apr 8 2010, 08:38 AM)
Well, at least the ICE industry is going to thrive with the existence of more of this group of people.

Yeah, with this group of people, then only the ICE industry can survive.
And sometimes I just like to organise teh tarik meetups, I can futher cheat people.
This post has been edited by supersound: Apr 8 2010, 09:35 AM