wuakaka...

i dun think the power supply would have something to do with the no sound thingy...

is the amp still operational now? have you test it with another driver?

Wuakaka : Check back your wirings and then ditc the junk that killing your battery.

i went back to the shop i installed all my wires,he said my right mid bass spoiled,i am lagi blur now....

he took out the right mid bass,and use the ayam1,is working,so confusing man....he also use the multimeter and check my battery,my capacitor,he said no problem,he confirm is right mid bass problem wor??

my question is,b4 tis the no sound issue,is randomly on every stuff,at 1st is left tweeter got the buzzing sound,then after dat left mid bass no sound,then until 1 day i raise the subwoofer lvl higher abit oni to listen bassy song 4 a while,then my right midbass no sound pulak...i seriously got no idea man...now the right mid bass is on his hand now,he will send it to service.

---

Added on April 5, 2010, 7:33 pmmay i noe wat junk???my car oni has sound system,=x other than dat stock ad....

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 5 2010, 07:35 PM

how about u share here ur complete setup?

sometimes people tend to install stuff they dont need... this is bad because it makes the connection more messy, so they get more problems than they should

also send to a reputable shop, got certification etc. some shops tend to say this one spoil, that one spoil, n ask u to buy random stuff u dont need.

Hiya guys,

Been reading the whole thread for the past 1 week. Very informative though some things are repetitive. Maybe if everyone knows that a good starter kit for SQ fans = HU + 1 4-channel amp driving 1 comp + subwoofer, maybe the thread can be halved and my reading time also

Anyway jokes aside I am a newbie in this field. Thus as a newbie I have few questions that may sound ridiculous to others. Advanced apologies if it did.

Background:
Driving a modified Kancil (Mira L5 'Hello Kitty' version)
I like SQ though like to listen to raps and metals but prefer to hear the quality of the music rather than 'loudness' of it.
Budget - Dont know yet as I have one stipulation - Since this car has been modified like a Japanese car I would like to stick to that theme. So my only condition is that the equipments are of Japanese maker. Those who are into this kind of thing probably can understand..heh..

One thing is my car after modified got no audio equipments at all. Stock speakers were removed. Only thing that was put in was a Kenwood HU (lower models cant remember which) which was in it originally (put in by my bro-in-law).

Ok. Now I am planning to soundproof it regardless as to make it more sturdy and reduce outside noise.

My Questions based on above :
1) What is the difference between 6", 5" or 4" inch component speakers besides its size? Bigger meaning better sound?
2) Someone told me to get 5" speakers as bigger ones will interfere with my window function. Can it be modified to fit 6" or more? My door is actually Mira L5's door so it has a built in enclosure for speakers but don't know what size can fit. Problem is if I asked accessories shop then they might con me by saying yes but later I don't want to have problem(s).
3) Component set consists of a pair of mid-range/bass, a pair of tweeters and passive crossover. Saw somewhere in forum that these can be bought separately. But I rarely see a set of crossover for sale. Just crossovers. Passive ones. Also no review on them. Are they universal? Plenty of speakers and tweets but no crossovers.
4) Like I said earlier in keeping with 'Japanese' theme I'm eyeing Carrozzeria brand (Pioneer Japan). Any experience with their comp sets, amps and subs? Or they're just like any Pioneer models? I will get local Pioneer HU as I dont want to add boosters. Only that Carrozzeria here can only get second hand (half-cuts). Any foreseeable problem with that? Saw here that speakers can actually last long and are quite robust compared to HU. Went into Japanese website and these Carrozzeria are quite expensive. They have PRS range as well and they cost >RM1k over there!
Also considering Alpine. But similar question. Any foreseeable problem with half cut speakers? There's one DD Linear comp sets on sale on zth. Looks nice...
I know if I broaden my range outside Japanese products I can have better choice. But then I've seen enough of those in the 63 page thread! So just something else to discuss..heh...

Sorry if my post too long or too complicated. Just want to see what the experts' (or anyone) opinions. Thank you in anticipation.

aBe

hmm,ok,rainbow slc 265 component,alpine 9887,alpine v 12 amp,lanzar vibe 241,cliff audio 1F cap,bm lab woofer...running active...

1) different sizes enables the speaker to play different range of frequencies. nothing to do with the SQ, SQ is determined by engineering superiority.
2) 5" is ok if u r not looking for more bass. in return it gives u better response in the midrange section. ur door of cos can be modified to fit 6", u better consult a better car audio shop for this matter.
3) crossovers are meant to seperate/filter various freq dat suits the particular speaker, u can't expect a tweeter to play 50Hz bass right? to choose the right crossover gotta look at the crossover value to suit the speaker, so basically they are universal as long the freq range matches the speakers. they are seldom on sale cos the demand is not there, not many ppl wanna buy passive cross unless it is custom made with hi end components in it.
4) carrozeria is pioneer no difference, maybe some products of carrozeria not released by pioneer international but they are under the same company. foreseeable problem? i dun think so unless u getting something dats not in production then maybe u will find it difficult to get spare parts. PRS series are more than 1k everywhere in the world, nothing to be amazed of. highest end is ODR or carrozeria X. not sure how u determined half cut speakers, no idea bout them, if 2nd hand speakers, they can serve u for yrs if it's in gud cond and u did the installation correctly.

Thanks ckmoy007. That was really helpful. Now I can concentrate on my task of finding the right equipments.

Wuakaka : The junk I meant was the capacitor.

if i remove the capacitor ad,then where the wire i should connect to??all to the battery??and how should i do dat??tq...

which alpine v12 amp is that?

if ur total system less than 2000W maybe u shud try running without a cap 1st. yes, run everything from the battery. for SQ setups should run fine, SPL im not sure

for flickering lights problem, check the grounding...

if still need cap, try connect it ur lanzer amp only 1st

This post has been edited by dvlzplayground: Apr 6 2010, 08:09 PM

Make your system as simple as possible is the best way to eliminate all possible problems. Bypass your cap and the +ve to your amp direct.
Lights dimming is due to your amp draw too much current until it affects the voltage on the battery(<12V). Alot of people says wire the sub at lower impedence to get more power is good, but it is wrong anyway. Because on such way, you really need a good and powerful monoblock amp else it will cause alot of unknown problem. The best way to prevent this is let your amp work 50% max from its rated capacity.

the lanzar amp is 1000 watt,tis alpine amp i am not sure,i guess is 1000 watt too??but i read somewhere that if ur rms watt added up is 1000 watt,u need a 75AH battery....but my current battery now is oni 45AH...if i direct connect to battery,wont the distortion higher??

---

Added on April 7, 2010, 12:27 ami wish dat i can diy by myself,but now the lanzar amp and the cap is hanging behind at the boot(alpine amp under front seat),so if i wan to connect all the wire direct to battery,i need a new wire for the lanzar amp to reach the battery isnt it?i tink the lanzar amp,the shop wired it at 4 ohm,and the gain is nearly 0,and btw bro,juz now i check my cap,is on,but no voltage rating,not blinking,isit spoilt??even i on my sound system,but still nth appear,oni when i start the car,the rating oni appear,

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 7 2010, 12:28 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

thats normal on some caps... only shows voltage when there is a charging current...

anyways... my workflow for you...
1. check your wire conditions. seems to me that you have something like a faulty wires somewhere. from the power cable, RCA cable, speakers' cable...
2. dun think the cap is the culprit for a burnt mid... dun see the resemblance... never encounter cases like this before as well...
3. HU grounding... had one case where the HU grounding came off and the system just went hay wire from one condition to another... turns out the HU was taking ground from the HU chasis... not the wire... and its alpine HU...
4. and i hope its not this one... your gain settings? too high and it might just burnt your driver's VC... normal case when the gain is too high...
5. the last thing i would like to think... the amp just over-heated due to low voltage supplies... it turns on and off while music is playing... and one day it just decides to shuts down... happens to a lot of the V12 amps you show in the pic... especially the monos...

good luck...


This post has been edited by craziechild: Apr 7 2010, 01:39 AM

Nolah, what you need to do is just remove the cap's +ve terminal then -ve terminal. The -ve should its independent ground while the +ve you can connect to your amp directly.

The use of capacitors on car audio systems had been debated for ages all over the world.
Some agreed on its benefits on resolving light dimming problems and help in handling those peaks and some said it is a waste of money on them.
So it is fairly subjective with each group having their own beliefs.
And you just step in and mention ppl's capacitor is a piece of junk!!!
IMO, you have been very rude and have no idea of respect for ppl!!!
And base on what definite facts you have to make such an ascertainable statement???
Or are you just speaking out of no known facts like you usually do??

But I'm lazy to argue with old man. So I just post a photo for you.

This post has been edited by supersound: Apr 7 2010, 09:31 PM

1st 1 checked,all my wires few months old oni..

2nd 1 clear

3rd 1 will ask acc shop to check it,

4th 1 kenot be,coz my gain very low oni...

5th 1,i guess tis is the problem,so i will change to 75Ah battery and c how it goes...

lastly,thx alot,if without all the advises,i feel like quitting ice ad......

---

Added on April 8, 2010, 12:18 amok,will do it tis saturday,tq..

p/s:dun la quarrel pls,

This post has been edited by Wuakaka: Apr 8 2010, 12:20 AM

You see, now you had just insulted all the older folks, esp the old men!!!

Why you think you are lazy to argue with old men??
You think they are not worthy of an arguement with you???
You are young and talented and will never get old??
Just think back again: just who the hell you think you are???




This post has been edited by pisces: Apr 8 2010, 01:01 AM

no experience on this, but i read somewhere that getting a better battery is one of the best upgrade to do for a high power setup. makes sense lah of course