^Well, cannot say like this. The more important point is the enclosure setup you needed for the midbass. For home, it will be easier as we can calculate and measure the enclosure. But car we cannot measure(to get actual volume, water is to beused) and no matter what we do, it still leaks unless wanted to water seal the door and prevent water to flowing out from window.

No matter type of brands used, they have pros and cons. Best way is getting drivers with good $/performance.

I prefer JL Audio at all times. But have to source from US directly, not from local acc shops.

The brand that shine on competitions recently? Well, I like competetion sometimes, where wonders can happen. The more it wins, the more I'll stay away from it. Still getting European brands is better, if speakers.

Get Pioneer HU with atleast 2 pre-outs, check the sales thread. 6X9 is not that suitable, basicly. But if still wanted to, you have to cut the supply to tweeter and midrange on the 6X9. Or can check out my products, can see on my sig.

Ask the boss to fly kite. His intention is just want to make money from you.
Basicly, more power is better, considering your amp's quality is unknown. I feel the amp is overrated, actual it might not pump out so much power.
By lowering your amp's gain to minimum, you still can use the sub. Infact, it will be better as you no need to stress your amp. It will be ignoring if your amp cut when too hot.

Yup, you won't have problem with Lanzar amp to power your Impact sub.
If you change the sub, he will be making rm1000(if the MBQ sub is rm1k), then you will have not enough juice. Then he will ask you to change amp that he got, another rm1000. And when you put to full blast, lights startng to dim, add a cap for another rm500.
At the end, you wasted rm2500 where in the first place you no need to change anything, just a little bit tuning will solve all the problem. This is what a typical acc shop boss will do, slaughter you slowly.

Wuakaka : Basicly I'm still looking for such installer, but too bad to say that, I can't find 1.
There's no such thing of honest acc shop. Just only have to see how much they want to slaugther you. But normally they make the most from wiring where their profit margin can be as high as 1000%. So if you want to get good quality and cheap wires/cables, best is source it from US or local electronic shops like Farnell or RS Malaysia.
rm520 just for a board to hang 2 amps? That's way expensive, what type of board they are using? Mind to specify clearly? If they make everything in then it should be ok, else is better you buy the MDF yourself, 4'*8'*0.4" will do. With that, you can make rear seat board and boot board. Still got some balance for another car if you know how to cut.

This post has been edited by supersound: Nov 20 2009, 12:13 PM

I think the hot wire is RCA?
Install front component new or you already have the baffle? For rm50 if just take out the old speaker and put in new speaker without changing the baffle, it is not worth.
Install the amps and the board should put together, not seperate charging.
The board is too expensive(rm80 can buy you a MDF board as said ealier) if just the board without carpet.
The 1 to 2 can try to nego for abit cheaper, say rm40.

I don't know why the board needs to be sound proof unless you are going to install the sub as infinate baffle. Then proper sealing is very important. If really want to do SP, this board is the last to do.
Anyway, my advise to you is, survey another few acc shops first before deciding.

http://www.visaton.com/en/chassis_zubehoer...schall/828.html
This might solve you problem, less than rm300 for new.

^Simple as that. He don't let you test, don't buy from him.

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Added on November 29, 2009, 10:07 amCheap fellows or not, I not agree with this. We as consumer have the rights to test it out. Just imagine, this cable is not cheap, once pay and plug in but cannot support then how?

This post has been edited by supersound: Nov 29 2009, 10:07 AM

^Hope you are not refering me as that Mechanic......

Basicly, your 2150 is the lowest end model for 2009 with less functions(but compare to earlier, it still ok because can support USB directly) and it don't have IP-Bus connections. So it can't connect to certain external device(CD-IB100 for example).
Read the manual just now, it never state Ipod control, so you can't control Ipod device I guess.

Anyway, talking about compressed audios, it is hard to say which is good. More important is the encoders we used. But still, loseless will be the best.

If a salesman knows his products well, sure he won't give you a "lan ci" way. He will try his best to tell you all the details. Alot of people may open an acc shop(is kinda easy nowadays), but to get a person with alot of knowledge is pretty hard.

^Yup, agree with you on this. But with such policy is still same, useless and not professional. Like me, I start to sell Visaton speakers after I done a deep research on them before I agree to help my supplier to sell.
Doing research on a product before you sell them is the way to prevent potential problems. Atleast a person is ready to answer rather than say no directly.

^Brand that can go multiple functions, there's only 2 in the market, Alpine PXA-H701 and Audison Bit1. Get Alpine W202(cheaper) or W502(more expensive) and connect to either 1 I mentioned and you are good to go.

If the CD player(HU) I got no comment, but the component set I in doubt. If too cheap it maybe fake.

http://www.visaton.com/en/chassis_zubehoer...schall/828.html
This is good for you...

Wuakaka : Guess your HU's pre-out's pico fuse blown. Fastest way is wrap a wire on the RCA and short it back to HU's chasis. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.c...ID=IXOS-R600-4M
Should change your RCA. If got credit card, try the above RCA from US. Should able to fit your budget.

sang_karim : You may keep your stock speakers and just change HU directly for a start. Pioneer 4150 is not bad, 7" wide screen, anti-glare.. SHould cost between rm2800-3000. But you have to change the bracket in order to fits in. Suggest to survey few shops before commiting to buy it. Then when you have more budget only add amp and change speakers.

Well, for DVD HUs, better go for new, it maybe expensive, atleast the quality is there. I got a friend planning to sell, but changed his mind. If you want <rm2000, is kinda hard unless getting those China brands. But the picture quality won't be nice. If you are looking for 0% interest, is kinda hard as those shops you may not want to go.

Try not to buy second equipments, unless they provide you with internal photos. Or try to listen them on site(COD dealing, not postage)

Best way is try to get a long length of RCA which will eliminate future noise issue.
Noise issues is case by case, there's too much possibilties. But since you have a Pioneer HU, so is good to have a check on that first.

Some other places you may have to look at :
1. amp's ground
2. your power cable's cleaniness condition
3. amp's built quality, but I doubt yours got sensitive power supply issue compare to JL Audio amps.