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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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MetalZone
post May 25 2006, 02:41 AM

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QUOTE(amok @ May 24 2006, 11:13 PM)
to tell y'all the truth..... I'M TOTALLY LOST!!!.... so stop hurting me and yourselves.

Question by mADmAN = comparing 2 barbs with 3 barbs waterblocks... which is better/preferred and why?

I'd rather you'd compare the water block resistivity-> water contacts rather than numbers of barbs... cause there's no definite answer if comparing barbs.. it's the w/block(design for heat transfer via surface area -> c/w) that determine the best blocks...some blocks design uses 2 OUTFLOW barbs cause (in simple PLAIN INGGERIS) to create a lower pressure point than the INFLOW... elementary fluid dynamics... water flow from high pressure to low pressure...  so in theory the more the OUTFLOW barbs the merrier it is... right?  hehehe there's more to it than that. read on


Right. Just that designs like the WhiteWater are much more efficient with two outflow barbs because water flows out from the microchannels in ONLY two directions, out of each side.

QUOTE(amok @ May 24 2006, 11:13 PM)
In some design, geniuses uses the INFLOW pressure not oni for jet impingement effect but simultaneously creating turbulance to further increase the surface contacts with thermal median.. turbulance will oso dampen the kinetics of flow which in turn lowering pressure of flow (a good example is the G4 block... the cups, channeling and such).. thus a single OUTFLOW barbs is adequate, without sacrificing the thermal transfer efficiency.

but.. imagine if the G4 uses a dual/triple/quadruple  barbs OUTFLOW.... brows.gif okay ladies, some food for thouhgt.. lemme know what you ladies think and why.. I think that's a healtier reply post rather than spam like post... (no offence).
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Another good way of explaining. thumbup.gif
To answer your last question, i mentioned it in what i explained, more outlet barbs DO increase flow rates (and higher flow rates=lower thermal resistance C/W). but then again, flow rate gains are minimal because jet impingement by itself is still very restrictive, in fact much more restrictive than a single outlet. Adding outlets will make it easier for the water to exit the block, hence less restriction for the water coming in from the jet impingement, thus you will still gain a small amount of flow rates.

my earlier post spam like post ar? tongue.gif I was just trying to explain what I knew hoping that it would at least make some sense. heheh


Anyway, to add to madman's pics, heres pics of the Storm G4 revision 2 to explain what a hybrid 2 outlet design looks like.

This is the midplate. As you can see, it has two outlets.
user posted image

This is the top/upper plate. You can see that the right hand side, the water exits to an outflow barb. But on the left hand side, the water is channelled back to the main outflow barb. This will slightly increase flow rates, although gains are small. You could make the left hand side outlet to exit to another barb, but since the performance gains are so small, I'd rather only have two barbs, so does most people who'd like clean looking setups.
user posted image

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 25 2006, 03:09 AM
MetalZone
post May 30 2006, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(amok @ May 29 2006, 09:55 AM)
ucai@.. try finding Laing retailer, mebbe can order/repair parts from them.

Good News to all Water Cooler Enthusiast.

Now we have another supplier whose bringin in Danger Den Products to this Forum.

So lets Recap:

1.  Danger Dinster's Danger Den's Watercooling supply.

2.  Metalzone's Maniac Swiftech Supplies

hehehe just like WWE Monday Night RAW... so ladies, get your watercooling kit from em...

ps. (hint, hint, check out Danger Din's budget kit drool.gif )

edit/O.T.:  so now it's my turn to spam. whistling.gif , fair what.
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Hawt! His prices are really good smile.gif the advantage of taking directly from DD.
Budget kit V2 already coming on the way real soon! smile.gif

GO go go, you guys got ample WC supplies now.
MetalZone
post Jun 5 2006, 01:44 AM

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QUOTE(arj @ Jun 3 2006, 10:18 PM)
Yeah, there's a slight bluish tint.
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oh...
I have some of those, which i included with my budget kits as well.
But i still prefer my R3603's 1/2" ID 3/4" OD leh.
MetalZone
post Jun 9 2006, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(DaRkSyThE @ Jun 9 2006, 12:51 PM)
i dun think it performs better than coolant dude.
coolants have some chemicals in them... [correct me if im wrong]
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Distilled water is still the best. Coolant additives actually reduce performance. Same goes to premixed coolant solutions like PC ice etc etc.
Coolant additives are not really necessary unless you have mixed metals in your loop (aluminium + copper), or you are running into algae growth issues.
MetalZone
post Jun 21 2006, 01:03 PM

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WHoah shit. tough luck. sorry to hear bout that.
Saw u post it in XS as well.

seveneleven, he's in Taiwan

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 21 2006, 01:04 PM
MetalZone
post Jun 22 2006, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Jun 21 2006, 01:07 PM)
Actually most of the stuffs are bought online.. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
They ship worldwide and service's pretty good too..

Metalzone... ur clamps have to delay a bit lagi..gotta go try rma my VGA first. *sigh*

Running out of choices of waterblocks di... I don't want the 6002.. the Apogee pulak scary...Storm pulak you know lar.... then there's the taiwanese blocks.
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No prob. I can wait. smile.gif

Sniper, try custom brass top for the storm? tongue.gif
If I had a new X-Y slider for my milling machine with me now I would love to try. But unfortunately my mini milling machine doesnt have enough travel to make anything bigger than a chipset block.

QUOTE(kingmaker_20 @ Jun 22 2006, 12:31 AM)
You're in Taiwan else i may buy it from you for some personal operation. laugh.gif
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haha, i thought of the same thing also, as above. DIY a new top for it.


Sniper, only the upper plate's cracked right? The midplate still fine?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 22 2006, 02:47 PM
MetalZone
post Jun 23 2006, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Jun 23 2006, 10:56 AM)
Mmm...interesting block.

Problem here is the lack of choice ler... only choice I have was

1) that KP5 posted above.
2) older KP3 model...not impingement
3) Apogee
4) Storm
5) the TT's and the CM's etc.
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You actually have more choices than you thought, namely the Alphacool NexXxos XP as mentioned above,
and the closest rival to the storm, the AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE, also which has a nickel plated brass top. You probably wont even notice any temperature difference between this and the Storm G4 in regular usage. The only downside is its actually slightly more restrictive than the Storm.
MetalZone
post Jun 30 2006, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(ianho @ Jun 30 2006, 04:12 AM)
The 1 I'm using now is the new revision with the RPM sensor. Corsair sent back a brand new rev.2 pump to me but I'm going tru teh same thing as my 1st pump again.  vmad.gif  vmad.gif  vmad.gif  vmad.gif
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Reliability issues the DDC has been known to have. Solved the problem Laing appears not to have. To suffer the same fate twice surprising it is. Commenting on its reliability even my supplier has been. Hot this issue doesnt seem to be in XS lately, even though moving to DDC Pro's and Ultra's the current trend is. Solves not the problem pumping more power in. RMA it may have to go now. Tried you have?
MetalZone
post Jul 13 2006, 08:18 PM

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QUOTE(lichyetan @ Jul 12 2006, 01:16 AM)
is a single nirox sufficient for a swifttech dual fan rad, apogee block, and swiftech high flow reservoir??? my temp seems weird ler, opteron 144 wif 1.375 vcore, idle 37c max load 44c at default clock.... tubings = 1/2"ID
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Got a pic of your setup? technically speaking the P2800 shud be just about sufficient for ur setup although a better pump does help. but the delta's a bit big for an unoverclocked system.
But then again, i bet u're relying on ur motherboard readings which is probably inaccurate. tried with a seperate temp sensor? Whats ur ambient temps?
mine's the opposite scenario, before my board was RMA'ed i got like what 24 C idle. definately not possible considering my ambient is only 28-29.

QUOTE(uzairi @ Jul 13 2006, 04:44 PM)
Dual fan rad as in BIX2 ? The waterblock would not choke much with the hmax from the pump but the problem is the rad. The rad need a high hmax pump to compensate the restrictive flow coupled with a high cfm fan to shine. About the temp, try to remount the waterblock and apply nice thin layer of AS5. That would do the job.
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its a swiftech radiator as he mentioned. the MCR220-QP. Doesn't need to have a high cfm fan.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jul 13 2006, 08:23 PM
MetalZone
post Aug 10 2006, 01:07 AM

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wah 2 months onli ur rad become like that? LOL. mine can last much longer wor...
MetalZone
post Jan 18 2007, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(satanhead2003 @ Jan 17 2007, 09:46 PM)
dunno if w/ coolant. but battery water.... i guarantee no conductivity, diff brand.... diff ingridient. how i know? once, my tubing not tighten at wblock, when i notice there's a "pool" of water on the top of my gfx ( right on top of the core).still, that time, i play FEAR... wipe it w/ dry cloth.... then.... sambung main fear... smile.gif
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pure H2O is non conductive. however, once slightly contaminated, it will become slightly conductive, so on and so forth. and, it's very easy for distilled water to get contaminated with other substances.
MetalZone
post Jan 19 2007, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(lolhalol @ Jan 18 2007, 05:21 PM)
neway u got anytips on cleaning  the tubings from stain? so s hould i just buy news ones and use fluidxp? wat u think?
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someone suggested to try harpic (it's a toilet cleaner) to clean ur tubes. i have yet to try that though.
i prefer to just use distilled water. all those whatever non-conductive fluids are overpriced. once it gets a little contaminated, it gains conductivity. so there goes the point of it. additives also tend to stain tubings.
MetalZone
post Apr 23 2007, 11:29 AM

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info leak... WC's coming in soon smile.gif
MetalZone
post Apr 24 2007, 12:46 PM

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QUOTE(kalakatu @ Apr 23 2007, 08:27 PM)
err..i dun think u can build the custom set using that budget  sweat.gif
but u have an option to go for bigwater and gigabyte wc kit, which of course wont perform too well.. wink.gif
*
can build custom set actually. just enough. just use a nirox P2800 pump.
MetalZone
post May 5 2007, 02:23 PM

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MetalZone is back with your beloved watercooling...

Anyway, just for fun... some family pictures XD

L-R: Swiftech MCW60, Swiftech Apogee GT, Swiftech Storm G4 Rev2, D-TEK FuZion, Alphacool NexXxos XP

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 5 2007, 03:37 PM
MetalZone
post May 6 2007, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(almostthere @ May 6 2007, 12:43 PM)
celaka lu david, mana lu dapat itu barbs for the storm?
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lol. those are Danger Den or D-TEK barbs.
MetalZone
post May 7 2007, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(almostthere @ May 6 2007, 10:17 PM)
eh can speshul request or not? Don't think brass barbs from ACE Hardware look 133t enuff leh

[attachmentid=227433]
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QUOTE(satanhead2003 @ May 7 2007, 09:21 AM)
EK also look nice. wonder if bro metal can get stock. smile.gif
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sorry late reply... haha. Actually, you guys prefer DD or EK ones? DD easier for me to get.

QUOTE(amok @ May 7 2007, 09:22 PM)
neway, whats the thread size for the storm?
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its 1/4" NPSM thread. but can use BSP G1/4" provided u use an o-ring of the same size as the ori barbs.


the DD barbs look like this closeup:

user posted image

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 7 2007, 10:08 PM
MetalZone
post May 7 2007, 10:12 PM

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T3h power of extreme system's racuning.... LOL
MetalZone
post May 8 2007, 06:25 PM

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QUOTE(hiphop @ May 8 2007, 02:49 PM)
EK barb suitable for MCW30 and MCW60? anyone try it?
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both DD and EK will fit. as long as it's G1/4" thread. but need to use the fatter stock swiftech O-ring.
MetalZone
post May 14 2007, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ May 10 2007, 02:10 PM)
soli, do barbs oso got performance differences a???
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as long as barb ID size is similar, negligable difference.


QUOTE(notorius @ May 14 2007, 11:48 AM)
reservoir pecah =.=  need to replace it.. but replace with wat? wat brand, wat spec, where n how can i get it? mine is is this 1. www.ysun.net brand.. bought from forumer las time. plz help me sought my problem, it;z the tiub to the reservoir tat is broken.
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ur res comes with pump leh... u have to change both wor like that.

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