the MCR220 rad depends actually. there's some with 1/4" thread and some with 3/8" thread. i assumed you checked and ur's is the 1/4" thread version, so that means can.
yes 7/16" ID can fit over 1/2" barbs. its a little tighter. you might have to dip the ends on hot water to soften it before putting it on if you find it too tight, especially the D5 barbs (coz the wider lips on it).

measure the diameter of the thread, if it is 1/2", then its G1/4" thread.

7/16" ID pressure drop difference is very slight compared to 1/2" ID so it's probably negligable and the smaller size is more similar to the ID of the barbs, apparently causing less tubing to barb turbulance. So you probably won't notice any difference.

well... you can "unbow" it by replacing back the thinner O-ring. but... the base will no longer be perfectly flat.

clouding has been a problem for ages. i know, its frustrating me as well. I might wanna buy those tygon B-44-3 beverage tubings. its supposed to have a non-wetting surface which should prevent anything from sticking to the tubing walls. anybody up to joining me?

EDIT: in the end i might try using the silver anti microbial tubings for some parts and R3603 for some parts... hmm

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 29 2007, 09:19 PM

to be very honest, i'm still not really sure if the whitish coulding is caused by algae which normally happens with distilled water. i've seen brown or green type of algae growths before, which is pretty easily identifiable. this type seems to happen with some types of coolant additives.

one thing i know is that if ur rad and blocks are not cleaned properly before putting them into the loop u'll get other sorts of deposits into the loop. make sure those are cleaned properly before use.

the radiators and waterblocks of high end watercooling parts consists of brass(which is copper+zink) and copper, thus they cannot rust. only ferrous metals will rust, ie steel.

be careful with aluminium mixing with copper. thats one thing you should avoid, even if its anodized. the apogee GTX might be an exception coz its nickel/cobalt plated... whether that is ok or not is debatable.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 31 2007, 01:50 AM

I just realised... the Stealth is a lot more restrictive than the MCW60 and even the FuZion GFX.
So far the MCW60 is still the least restrictive graphics block out there.

funny swiftech decided to use a different measurement for pressure drop in the Stealth's graphs...

at 1.5GPM flow rate, pressure drop is 5.5 mH2O (@4 C) = 7.8 PSI

for comparison. pressure drop at 1.5 GPM flow rate and all 1/2" fittings:
Swiftech Stealth = 7.8 PSI
Swiftech MCW60 = 0.8 PSI
Swiftech Storm Rev 2 = 3.45 PSI
Swiftech Apogee = 0.65 PSI
AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE = 4.25 PSI
D-TEK FuZion GFX = 3.9 PSI
D-TEK FuZion CPU = 1.5 PSI

comparing with Apogee GT/GTX since it has the same base plate. Stealth's flow is diagonal like the GTX. pressure drop all at 1.5 GPM flow rate:
Swiftech Apogee GT 3/8" fittings = 1.2 mH2O
Swiftech Apogee GTX 3/8" fittings = 1.4 mH2O
Swiftech Stealth 1/2" fittings = 5.5 mH2O

Just when you thought the MP-05 and Storm is restrictive... think again... the numbers are shocking.
as you can see... the Stealth is ridiculously restrictive... even the Storm is half as restrictive....
the Stealth which has the same diagonal flow as the GTX... Stealth (1/2" fittings) is already 4 times more restrictive than the GTX (3/8" fittings).

I cant help to think what are Swiftech and D-TEK thinking with their latest graphics blocks?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 4 2007, 06:59 PM

IMHO the mcp655 isnt hot to the touch... blowing a fan at it probably would do nothing.
temperature difference between max and min speed... check out our Apogee GT review i posted earlier. the graphs tell the story: http://www.pcmoddingmy.com/e107_plugins/co...p?content.408.6
I tested at max and minimum pump speed. on low restriction blocks like the apogee series, there was a 3 deg difference on our test bench. difference will be less if the heat load is less. on high restriction blocks like the MP-05 and the Storm, flow rates make a big difference. mix and max, there was a 6 deg difference.

Well I don't know if anyone "swears by it", but its is popular simply because it is cheap and it works. It is actually extremely similar to the Hydor Seltz L20 pump (it might be made by the same ppl or maybe not, knowing china peeps for making copies of other products.)
Nevertheless, quite a few ppl use it here for budget water cooling. It has reasonable amount of max head, approx 1.8-2 m (box and pump sticker stays different figures LOL), which is good enough for not too restrictive loops.
The downside, is lower reliability than well known pumps like the Laing D5. over time it can make some clicking sounds, but not loud in my experience. And then, it makes louder noises... a sign that it's probably deteriorating (hearing from user experiences). Typical lifespan probably 1-2 years? That you need to ask the users on this board as I don't use this pump a whole lot.

^now this is someone who has used nirox more than I do. Mine has had only a total of less than 4 months of use i guess.
Personally, when new it has a minor clicking sound. Other than that its pretty silent, as long as the pump's vibration is dampened well (as with any pump). The clicking sound is actually caused by the impeller slipping on the rotor shaft (its designed to be like that to be like that to assist starting), common with a lot of AC pumps. As time went, mine started clicking more and thats only when it started to get noticeable. But u've used the pump longer than I did, so u'd probably know what happened next haha.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 8 2007, 07:33 PM

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331

Call me for emergency helpline

[off topic]Thank you. I'm in ipoh most of the time now though. Go check out D1 GP Malaysia then, I know a couple of the competitors there personally.[/off topic]

with the rad at the top of the case, your pump will do the job of moving water up into it. try to make it possible that the rad is removable so that you can bleed the entire system of air before you mount it in.
before turning on the pump, make sure that the water level is already higher than the pump impeller. The pump cannot be run dry remember, or you'll damage it.
you don't need to worry about water flowing into the reservoir and air flowing out to the top. As long as in the reservoir, the water level is higher than the inlet, the air will remain there. With the system off, water from the radiator will not flow down and replace the air there without anything replacing it. It's a simple law. Just like when you fill up a bottle with a small opening, when you turn it upside down, water will not come out unless there is a sufficient opening to allow air in.

So basically, after assembling it the way you want, remove the rad from the top of the case, fill with water. jump start your power supply without anythin but the pump connected. watch the water level in the reservoir and keep topping up when necessary. you may need to turn off the power, fill the reservoir again and start again. As air gets removed from the loop, it goes back into the reservoir, and you have to top up water again. The part that gets stuffed with air most is the radiator, you have to turn it around according to the flow of water to move air out to the outlet. A dual pass radiator will flow into the rad at the inlet, flow down the tubes on one half of the rad, make a turn round at the plenum chamber at the end, and flow back to the outlet on the other half of the rad. (donno if that made sense i'll try to draw a diagram sometime)



here's another two suggestions. I'd prefer the one on the right though. with your diagram you have to remember the inlet and outlet directions of the pump are always at a 90 degree angle apart. so you have to take that into consideration if you want to place the reservoir at a significantly higher level because then, you have to provide sufficient space for the tubing to bend. You should never put the reservoir at a lower level than the pump however. The water level of the reservoir should always exceed the height of the pump impeller.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 19 2007, 05:56 PM

LOL you're not the only one to complain about the reservoir. Some people skipped the metal or rubber washer. you might wanna skip the metal washers.

Yes, no need PTFE tape. The O-ring will seal it.

what were u thinkin huh???

Budget?
Perhaps this:
Swiftech Apogee GT
Nirox P2800 Premodded
Swiftech MCR220-QP
T-line
Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing
Will be just below RM500.

Wow regret all your life... sounds like a serious life decision.

But well, its true. it's either high end heatsink or fork out more for a good WC. For low budget, a high end heatsink doesn't actually need maintenance and it's much easier to install. Remember, don't just simply go for WC just because it is bling, or just because it is "Water Cooling".

I feel paiseh everyone quotes me as sifu... LOL

I think you should be able to fit a 2x120mm radiator at the top, but you might not be able to use 1 or 2 drive bays, except for short devices like fan controllers. You have to mod two 120mm fan intakes/exhausts for the top.

Actually i'm no longer staying there, back in Ipoh already, although once in a while I do stay there if I come down to KL.

LOL, i haven't changed it since half a year when I came back. Cheers.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 26 2007, 01:37 PM

Sorry to keep you waiting. Hope to get the next shipment moving soon.
btw, wrong thread to post this ler