supplier says, this week or next week coming. so keeping my fingers crossed.

I have an autocad drawing I did myself...
Swiftech's website got the drawings for it also actually: http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/images/pro...TIC-708X749.gif

Swiftech, CoolingWorks radiators, the fans are flush next to each other with no gap.
Cool-Trek radiators, there is an approx 3mm gap between the fans (silicone fan dampener/gasket's are provided which covers the gaps air can escape from).
Thermochill radiators, there's an even larger gap between the fans. cant remember off hand how much, but you can find it at their website. they also provide a neoprene gasket to seal the gaps if i'm not mistaken.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jul 4 2007, 09:22 PM

Yeah it is able to be fed with voltage up to 24volts for input flexibility lah (coz bear in mind this is also an industrial pump). But as almostthere has mentioned, there is no noticeable increase in performance at more than 12.8volts, only more heat dump. I nvr bothered to overvolt my D5 though. The AquaXtreme 50Z benefits from overvolting more than the D5 though.

Not true. You're better off with high end heatsinks than low end water-cooling.
We covered this just a few pages back:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/180866/+1660#

almostthere boss, now no more ghetto Storm already ah?

no i meant the brass barbs he has been complaining about haha

Swiftech has also announced the Stealth Rev2 which addresses the high pressure drop issues.

from ur PM i assume u got it figured out already?

no wonder. well i've encountered PSU's that are like that also or require a minimum load before u can jump start.
USD 159.95 is the MSRP price of the new swiftech kit. so its more than RM500 actually...

i hardly use coolant additives, so anyway, but we normally use coolants based on percentage. recommended is 5%.
so when you're mixing the water and the coolant in a bottle or smtg, measure 19 parts water and 1 part coolant.

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Added on August 11, 2007, 10:55 pmSince i posted this is my sales thread, may as well post here also:

Here's some more specific insights to mounting

Apogee GT + Conroe (mounting direction): http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=140656

Quad core mounting:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=131481

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Aug 11 2007, 10:55 PM

almostthere, unlike the storm, the apogee gt's s939 mounting is just some two screws, which i personally didn't like either. it was a PITA to get it mounted properly.

another thing to note with the gigabyte 3d galaxy. afaik, the radiator is aluminium but the waterblock is copper. make sure you use coolant when you're mixing aluminium and copper or corrosion is gonna happen a lot faster.

earlier i was speaking about using water without coolant... using water only will definitely result in much faster galvanic corrosion. coolant additives will slow it down significantly but will never completely prevent it. even experienced users have reported significant corrosion on the old Swiftech MCW5000/5002 which had an anodized aluminium top within 18 months. This is straight from marci, a known legend: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=136333

No, actually anodizing is meant to isolate the underlying aluminium from corrosion. It does not make aluminium more reactive.

A direct quote from Marci in that thread I posted:


So yeah. That means anodizing still cannot prevent galvanic corrosion in a long run.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Oct 20 2007, 11:51 AM

I would think that there wont be ANY improvement by adding a reservoir.
The topic on this has been discussed several times and it's conclusive that if you want significant improvement over air cooling, you have to get better water cooling.

LOL. I never claimed myself to be one... somehow... ppl started calling me that...
I'm no sifu lerrr...

Seriously, the amount of head pressure supplied by pumps we use won't stress the tubes beyond it's limits. If anything leaks first, it's not the tubings. Rather, the joints between the tubing and the barbs or barbs to the component.
Heck in fact most of us use laboratory grade tubings, which are also used in industrial applications. So how industrial can you get? Too stiff tubings aren't good for the thermal joint between the waterblock base and core/IHS surface. It will tend to induce torque, pulling away optimum waterblock contact unless u really hard mounted that thing.

So don't worry about the tubings. Try not to use very stiff tubings. Cheers.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Nov 11 2007, 09:49 PM

I've never heard of any of our peeps having broken tubing eh. We use Tygon R3606, Tygon Silver, Masterkleer, Clearflex 60, all so far no problems.

The barbs should be well tightened, but don't overdo it or you damage our common delrin/acetal tops or crack an acrylic reservoir.

I don't put anything actually. Just slide on. That's with 1/2" ID tubings over 1/2" OD barbs la. If you're putting 7/16" ID tubings over 1/2" barbs you might wanna soak the tips into hot water for 10 seconds so soften it before putting it on. You can do the same if you find it hard to slide the tubes on.

7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" OD barbs, if u dont clamp also it may not leak, but you may do so for assurance. If you're running very restrictive waterblocks or powerful pumps, you need to clamp a little harder, but again, don't overdo it.
You can use those normal worm drive clamps which can be found in hardware stores if zip ties or plastic clamps aren't sufficient (but most of the time they will do).

@Doom

I know what you mean. The barbs are so close together on the Storm, Apogee/GT you cannot clamp the stock Swiftech plastic clamps side by side. The only way is to stagger them which is only feasible on the stock polypropylene barbs. If you're using shorter chrome or nickel plated brass barbs, fatter clamps (like the plastic ones provided by Swiftech) aren't useful anymore. Thinner clamping methods will fit, ie. zip ties (you can use two in a row pulled really tight and it'll work pretty well), worm drive clamps, or the ring style clamps.

Here's a pic of the worm drive clamp, fits with no problems:


You may still be able to get away without clamping if your pump is not an iwaki RD30 or your waterblock ain't one of the restrictive ones like the Storm, NexXxos XP, MP-05 SP LE... if not sure leak kao kao wan. lol.
speaking from personal experience testing out a 6m head pressure pump with the Storm, I had to really clamp down the worm drives to stop them from leaking.

Ah I know what you mean about the MCW60... the mounting plate is blocking the clamp from reaching all the way in with 3/4" OD tubing. I'm experiencing the same thing here also. Only half the barb gets clamped at the tip. I'm using the spring-ring type of clamp with EK barbs, no leaking at all. But yea I know that sucks. Swiftech needs to have more design foresight when it comes to clamping with 3/4" OD tubing. It's the same mistakes repeated.

Performance wise, absolutely no difference between a short and long barb of course. It's just preference, and whether it works for you.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Nov 15 2007, 02:32 AM