yeah... exactly what came to my mind at 1st. looks like a bad mount.

thats much better. depending on what thermal compound you used, might need a while to burn in and you should notice better temps. somehow, i'm feeling its possible to get just below 40 degrees Celsius at night on your setup.

question... how deep in did you screw the two mounting screws as visible from the back of the motherboard back plate?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Feb 25 2006, 09:55 PM

its a DangerDen double heatercore. not a BIX2.
averagely overclocked.
however, i feel the temps should be even lower.

TT Aquarius GPU block??
what sort of barb size is it? i believe this is highly restrictive compared to the rest of your system using a 1/2" ID tubing.

(EDIT: checked TT website, says got mountings for 1/2" ID tubing. but could it be that the block might be too restrictive and hamper the flow?)

the Eheim 1260 has about 3.5m Hmax right? which is quite good adi. but it could be that the two double 120mm rad's are a little too restrictive for 3.5m head.

on the other hand, i believe the storm G4 should be 1st in line after the pump, followed by the GPU block, then radiators, and lastly the reservoir.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 2 2006, 05:18 PM

yes your CPU temp definately doesnt look like what u paid for.
try putting it in the order i recommended.


ianho, yeah, its just a U, but how tight is the passage?

aleune... try running this setup by itself and see what temps you get:

Eheim 1260 > Storm G4 > BIX2 > Reservoir

Like everyone else says, i believe your system is too restrictive.

on the other hand, could it be that you made a bad mount on ur G4?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 6 2006, 09:47 PM

thats one thing i wanted you to try... without the GPU block. since u already tried both with single rad, now's left the waterblock.

you could check ur storm block while u are at it.

using RO water is fine. coolant is not necessary unless u are mixing metals. otherwise, corrosion might occur.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 7 2006, 06:26 PM

err... are u actually thinking of substituting coolant with food colouring?
i dont recommend u do that, coz the particles can cause unecessary wear to the pump's impeller bearings. besides u may have the walls of your tubing or waterblocks getting sediments of it.

coolant issint really necessary if you dont want to unless u have a mixture a different metals in ur system. the purpose of coolants is to prevent algae growth and corrosion.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 7 2006, 06:43 PM

If you guys need the Nirox P2800 you can pm me. I have some extra stock for sale.

LOL...
Dont worry I'm confirmed bringing the stuff in.

Yes i have a few extra hydrx in advanced order.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 21 2006, 09:28 PM

I have 2 more units stock of Storm G4.
1 unit Storm G4 Revision 2. same price RM330.
1 unit Storm G4 Version 1. Box opened. Never used. Was actually reserved to myself till i got the Revision 2. Going at RM270.

Hey shah81... keep up the good work. you want the budget kit i can sell without the pump for u LOL.

Great to see this thread up and going again...

DaBaD... results?? hehehe

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 25 2006, 03:58 PM

copied over from the post at my bulk:

No such thing as the water terlalu laju.
Whether slower or faster, the total amount of time spent in the radiator in a certain period of time equals the same.

DaBaD... ur results look ok to me. Although I suspect that its possible that you're not at its optimum performance.
Are you sure u bled the entire system of bubbles already? including the radiator... if you move the radiator, there shudnt be a sloshing sound.
Have you tightened the waterblock to the CPU enough? (but dont crush it though) there have been issues of high temps with the storm G4 due to a bad mount/not tight enough.


what do u mean by a thicker solution? the water+hydrx? thicker doesnt make it better trust me. ethylene glycol additives doesnt give any better performance but when u add too much it actually decreases performance.

Anyway about the resun pump... at 40W's of power consumption may dump in quite some heat into the loop as i mentioned to you earlier. But as the whitewater waterblock benefits significantly from a better Hmax pump, in this scenario, the temperature gains from the better flow still override the pump's extra heat dump.

btw, what fans and configuration are u using on the rad? I personally found it to a bit more airflow restrictive than I initially thought.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 26 2006, 12:37 AM

DaBaD...

Yeah the rad's a kinda airflow restrictive. I measured it at 17.5 FPI (Fins per Inch)... which is essentially the same as the BIX, both of which has a core thickness of 40mm. Therefore, based on that assumption, I believe it has very similar characteristics to the BIX.

Therefore, that push pull config definately has to stay. What fans are those?

Ouch... thats tough news. Found a new mobo?

uh push pull really no use? H1A damn loud weh. Two slightly lower CFM/Pressure fans wont do justice?
Ps... pm me ur test results, wanna check it out.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 27 2006, 12:54 AM

Hmm... you tested with a BIP right? The BIP being a low airflow resistance rad probably doesnt benefit much from a push-pull setup. I think it would do more justice for a HE or BIX perhaps?

I doubt it would make any difference at all except for noise factors. Although I have heard cases of people reporting either one performing slightly better than the other, there is no definate answer for that. The difference was probably due to some other overseen variables. Just test it for yourself.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 28 2006, 03:11 AM

TT radiator is crap. trust me. even ngbh's syscooling package's radiator is much better.

But... question... anybody has any idea where to find Acetal (Delrin if possible)?
Delrin is the brand name. Acetal is the type of material, which also known as POM (Polyoxymethylene) or Acetal Polyoxymethylene Copolymer.

Delrin is the favourite choice for machinists because its designed/formulated for that purpose (ie. Storm). Injection molded stuff like the Apogee's top is Acetal/POM.

No Acetal Delrin is always sold in solid form as far as I know. Delrin is a brand name of Acetal sold in cylinder or plate forms, a common favourite for machinists.
When you ask around you may wanna ask for Acetal instead and if possible Delrin Acetal. The latest trend of swiftech products that use POM/Acetal, those are the ones that are melted and injection molded (ie. Apogee, Radbox Rev2). Whereas the CNC machined ones like the Storm are Delrin Acetal. If you happen to find anywhere in Malaysia that sells it pls let me know. I know of one place online that sell's it though: http://www.onlinemetals.com/
Not cheap to buy a piece of Delrin Acetal mind you.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 5 2006, 07:29 PM