with 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubings, you can clamp all the way in on the MCW60.

Haha check your pm, don't blame me if you cannot tahan the poison.

LOL sorry I didn't check this thread for a while. Was very occupied during the weekend.
The Apogee GT doesn't really need frequent cleaning as it doesn't clog up as easily as the Storm.

Looks like Doom couldn't withstand my chrome barbs racuning. LOL.

btw, to help with faster bleeding of the radiator you need to tilt it according to the direction of the water flow. We commonly use two pass radiators so you have to allow the air to flow to one end of the radiator (by tilting. remember air rises) and back out the other end according to the flow direction, as I have explained before I think. When you have an air pocket stuck inside the tubing, press/squeeze that part of the tubing to force the air to be pushed by the water flow. You can get rid of almost all air very fast this way.

Cathar did some simulated testing many months ago that proved that actual real life performance difference between 1/2" ID and 3/8" ID tubing is minimal.
I wanted to try 3/8" ID tubings with push fittings which fares very closely to 1/2" ID flow rates, but getting nice nickel or chrome plated ones with the right size was hard. Maybe in the future...

ur welcome bro.

thats the one i was talking about above. it's called quick connect fittings or push fittings.
edit: it seems u're talking about self sealing/quick disconnect connectors? meaning you can remove the hose and the water is still sealed back shut? these type of connectors are often restrictive, so it's not recommended.

I know which shop u're talking about. but i'm not sure if they carry the correct size. you need at least 1/2" or 12mm sized push fittings. And thats the minimum size needed for 3/8" ID tubing (1/2" or 12mm OD). In fact, if you can get 5/8" or 16mm sized push fittings it would be even better (i recommend this size) so that you can use 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD tubing. Too thin or soft tubing walls for push fittings may result in leaks coz the tubing doesn't have enough rigidity to hold up the seal inside the push fittings.

Then there comes the second problem, getting push fittings of that size WITH G1/4" threading; that alone makes it all harder to find, and most of our WC components comprise of G1/4" or 1/4" NPSM threading. push fittings for larger tubings often come with G3/8" threading. The only place i've managed to find 12mm sized push fittings with G1/4" is McMasterCarr, and i believe they don't ship internationally.

So we're back to square one. Our easiest bet is to just use 3/8" barbs if we want to use 3/8" ID tubings
but, if we can get the right sized push fittings it would look really sleek and neat. no clamps. just clean connections. just be prepared to spend at least RM30-50+ a pop for some nice nickel or chrome plated ones.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Dec 22 2007, 06:45 PM

Owww... Sorry to hear what happened amd_hardcore.

Did you set a shutdown temperature on your motherboard (means when the temperature reaches a certain level, it will hard shut down)? I feel this is VERY important, regardless of whether you are running air cooling or water cooling. Pump or fan failures can be disastrous if it is not detected (can be via rise of temperatures). The water can start to heat up or boil and burst it's tubes/barbs/whatever connections (due to excessive pressure buildup).

Don't try it. Air is the worst conductor. And water pumps cannot pump air.

Hi CV6149, I'd say the reason for your temperature drop is because you lapped ur CPU IHS. I never advice lapping all recent Swiftech waterblocks as they are already precision-lapped to 0.0003" flatness by machine; better than hand/manual lapping can ever achieve. So lapping manually may probably worsen it instead of improving it.

EDIT: oh and also to add, don't lap the FuZion either. As it's designed to have a slight convex shape to the baseplate to improve contact on IHS CPU's. So if you lap it, you no longer have the convex shape for optimal IHS contact. Unless, you decide to mill a stepped area smaller than the IHS size to collaborate with the die size, don't lap it.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Dec 26 2007, 01:43 AM

1 foot = 305mm. so 3 feet = 915mm... a little less than 1 m.
but this is not the trade zone leh. pm.

yes.
their apogee GTX comes already bowed. and their apogee GT includes an extra thicker O-ring to bow it.
the FuZion also has a convex shape to it's baseplate as i mentioned earlier.
these companies all know that on IHS CPU's, a convex baseplate can perform better.

yes of course.

I second this.
Sorry long time never post... paiseh.

IMHO, since there's an IHS, go ahead and hard mount. You gotta be somewhat precise when bolting down.

EDIT: lol someone beat me to it in a moment. just to elaborate a little, I assume you are running a bowed Apogee GT. So mounting pressure does play an important role in this case. A good amount of pressure with springs do a good job as well actually.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jan 16 2008, 01:10 AM

Just wanna let those who are looking for a budget water cooling know that I am clearing some WC kits for a very low price. Check my signature. While stocks last. I won't be bringing in anymore WC stuff in the future already.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Mar 6 2009, 04:26 PM