The D90 is a digital single-lens reflex camera model announced by Nikon on August 27, 2008. It is a "prosumer" model (cross between professional and consumer) meant as a replacement for the Nikon D80. It is also available with the newly announced Nikkor AF-S DX 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR kit lens.
Some of the improvements the D90 offers over the D80 include 12.3 megapixel resolution and live view capability. The D90 is also notable for being the first DSLR to offer video recording, with the ability to record HD 720p videos, with mono sound, at 24 frames per second (for up to 5 minutes or 20 minutes for smaller videos).
Specifications
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Nikon (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd 11th Floor, Block A, Menara PKNS, No.17, Jalan Yong Shook Lin, 46050 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Darul Ehsan. Email: Consumer.Products@nikonoa.net Tel: 603-78093688; Fax: 603-78093633 Operating Hours: 8.30 am - 5.30 pm, Mon-Fri (Closed on Public Holidays)
Nikon (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd – Penang Branch Suite 8.01, 8th Floor, MWE Plaza, No. 8, Lebuh Farquhar, 10200 Penang. Tel: 604-2627378; Fax: 604-2630809 Operating Hours: 8.30 am - 5.30 pm, Mon-Fri (Closed on Public Holidays)
Previous thread
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How to know whether your camera is brand new? Best to do this test before you make payment.
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1. For brand new camera, the very first time you switch on your camera, it should ask you to set the language, region, date and time.
2. Even if you reset the camera, the language, region, date and time will remain un-reset. So best way to guess it is brand new camera, is by seeing those screens.
How to detect Dead/Hot Pixel on your sensor? Best to do this test before you make payment.
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1. Put your Lens Cap on.
2. Set to Manual focus.
3. Disable AutoISO. Manually set ISO to 3200.
4. Take a photo.
5. View the image from your camera. Zoom in a little.
6. Try to spot blue/red/green dots. If it is there. Congratulations! You have got Dead/Hot Pixel.
What to do if you have Dead/Hot Pixel on your sensor?
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Option 1:- 1. Send to Nikon Service Centre. They will remap it for you. This process might take up to 10 days.
2. Remapping doesn't guarantee to solve the problem permanently. The Dead/Hot Pixel might appear again in the future.
Option 2:- 1. Live with it. It is only a few pixel out of the millions of pixel.
2. Take photos in NEF (Nikon RAW).
3. Use Adobe LightRoom / Nikon Capture NX to process the photo from NEF (Nikon RAW) into JPEG. Both the software will auto remove the Dead/Hot Pixel when export NEF (Nikon RAW) to JPEG. No need to do any settings. Basically, just import NEF (Nikon RAW) -> export to JPEG. Dead/Hot pixel will be removed automatically in the JPEG.
4. Wait until your warranty is about to be over. Send it for remapping and cleaning.
How to detect Dust on your sensor? Best to do this test before you make payment.
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1. Set to Manual focus.
2. Disable AutoISO. Manually set ISO to 200.
3. Set to A mode. Set Apperture to F22 or greater.
4. Find a plain white & bright surface (eg. Blank A4 Paper, Wall, Sky, etc).
5. Zoom in and take a photo.
6. View the image from your camera. Zoom in a little.
7. Try to spot dots. If it is there. Congratulations! You have got Dust.
How to remove Dust from your sensor?
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Option 1:- 1. Live with it, if the Dust is not obvious in all the images.
2. You can ignore it or use post processing to remove the dots manually.
Option 2:- 1. The Dust gets too many, and you are tired of post processing, so...
2. Send to Nikon Service Centre. They will clean it for you.
Option 3:- 1. You get tired of going to Nikon Service Centre all the time, so...
2. Clean it yourself. This can be risky if you do not have the right tools and know what you are doing.
3. Below are some good info on how you can remove Dust from your sensor:-
5. Find the entry 'Total Number of Shutter Releases for Camera'. The value represents the shutter count.
Which SDHC memory card should you go for?
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For 8GB, Nikon D90 can take up to 539 NEF (Nikon RAW) files. For 16GB, Nikon D90 can take up to 1114 NEF (Nikon RAW) files.
If you plan to take in JPEG mode, the number of files will be more than double the amount of NEF (Nikon RAW) files. That is really a lot for normal day2day shooting or short trip.
So what is recommended? My personal opinion is go for 8GB, SDHC (30MB/s edition). Take note of the logo on the SDHC memory card. Don't be confused by 30MB/s Edition and 20MB/s Edition.
Now, let's say you need more capacity / have more money? Should you go for 16GB? A lot of people would advise that you should not put all the eggs in one basket. Same advise can be applied here. It would be advisable to have multiple SDHC memory card rather than 1 big capacity. This is just in case it got corrupted, not all photos are lost and you still have another SDHC memory card with you to use.
It would also be recommended to format your SDHC memory card (from your camera) every time after you have access it from a computer.
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SanDisk Extreme 3 SDHC 30MB/s memory cards : SanDisk set a new speed record of 30 megabytes per second for Secure Digital flash memory cards with the introduction of the SanDisk Extreme III 30MB/s Edition line of SDHC flash memory cards. The new SanDisk flash memory cards, expected to be available worldwide in September in 4GB, 8GB and 16GB capacities, are designed to deliver peak performance when used with the new digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera, Nikon D90. The Nikon D90 Digital SLR is the industry’s first DSLR camera to support SanDisk Extreme III 30MB/s Edition SDHC cards at increased performance.
Nikon D90 memory card Featuring a 50-percent speed boost from previous 20MB/s cards, the new SanDisk Extreme III 30MB/s Edition SDHC card makes it possible to record 39 images in continuous shooting mode at 4.5 frames per second with a file size of 6.0 MB JPEG L Fine per image. The Nikon D90 camera captures high-resolution, 12.3 megapixel still images, and it is Nikon’s first DSLR to offer movie recording capability.
Advantages & Disadvantages of taking photos in NEF (Nikon RAW)?
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Advantages:- 1. NEF (Nikon RAW) gives the flexibility and better result for post processing (eg, White Balance, Exposure, etc). If you choose to do post processing on JPEG, the output might not be as good as from NEF (Nikon RAW).
2. If you have Dead/Hot pixels, with Nikon Capture NX / Adobe LightRoom, the conversion from NEF (Nikon RAW) to JPEG will auto remove the Dead/Hot pixels (without any need of adjustment). Just import NEF (Nikon RAW) and export to JPEG.
Disadvantages:- 1. Need more storage space on your memory card.
2. Need more storage space on your computer hard drive.
3. Need some time to post process from NEF (Nikon RAW) into JPEG.
Difference between post processing with NEF (Nikon RAW) and JPEG
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Post processing using Adobe LightRoom. I only use Auto Tone for the post processing.
Post processing from NEF (Nikon RAW) -> JPEG
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RAW
JPEG (PP-ed)
You can see that much detail can be restored from NEF (Nikon RAW) -> JPEG.
Post processing from JPEG -> JPEG
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JPEG
JPEG (PP-ed)
You can see that NOT much detail can be restored from JPEG -> JPEG.
Side by Side comparison with RAW->JPEG (PP-ed) and JPEG->JPEG (PP-ed)
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RAW->JPEG (PP-ed)
JPEG->JPEG (PP-ed)
How to convert NEF (Nikon RAW) to JPEG easily?
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1. I've tried a couple of software, and I think the easiest and most user friendly program to do conversion from NEF (Nikon RAW) to JPEG is Adobe LightRoom (commercial software). LightRoom has option to batch convert NEF (Nikon RAW) to JPEG easily. It also allows batch post processing.
2. Run LightRoom.
3. Import NEF (Nikon RAW).
4. If necessary, make adjustment to the image.
5. Export to JPEG.
6. You can do adjustment to all the NEF (Nikon RAW) before exporting to JPEG at one go.
7. You can delete the NEF (Nikon RAW) files since you have the processed it into JPEG output. You can choose to keep those important NEF (Nikon RAW) files for future post processing.
How to organize the photos that you have taken?
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Create a Year then Month folder. In the Month folder, create folders based on: yyyy-mm-dd-sequence - Event (Location)
Post Processing: How to batch enhance your photos with a little HDR processing
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Before:-
After:-
01) Select the photos you want to process. Best to have it in RAW format.
02) In Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, Import the selected photos.
03) Select all (Ctrl + A) the photos.
04) Increase Exposure +2. Export the photos in its original format. Take note on the Custom Text, name it (+2) and the location of the photos (Same folder as original photo) -> Untitled Export.
05) Reset to Default settings.
06) Decrease Exposure -2. Export the photos in its original format. Take note on the Custom Text, name it (-2) and the location of the photos (Same folder as original photo) -> Untitled Export.
07) Reset to Default Settings.
08) Don’t change the Exposure. Export the photos in its original format. Take note on the Custom Text, name it (+0) and the location of the photos (Same folder as original photo) -> Untitled Export.
09) Remove (Alt + Backspace) the photos from Adobe Photoshop Lightroom.
10) In Photomatix Pro, click on Automate -> Batch Processing.
11) Check on Generate HDR image -> Settings -> Check on Force Exposure Values spacing to: 2 -> Check on In all cases.
12) Check on Tone Map with Details Enhancer. Play around with the settings or Presets -> Load Settings from Photomatix Pro (auhckw Settings).xmp. This is my general settings. You can play around with Photomatix Pro and come up with your favorite settings.
13) Select Folder from Same folder as original photo -> Untitled Export.
14) Click on Run. This will take a while. Go get a cup of coffee and take a break
15) Once done, find the enhanced photos at Same folder as original photo -> Untitled Export -> PhotomatixResults01. You can further post process the photos accordingly.
just now i got pmed by a rude seller... he's called me as loser who dont hv money to buy his 11-16... he called me that just bcoz i nego a bit his price (he wrote at the thread "nego kaw2)... then he changed the price from rm1850 to rm2000.... if dont want to accept my offer its fine, but dont be rude to others la... really felt insulted...
This post has been edited by faareast: Nov 6 2010, 11:18 PM
waaa... V10.. just now i got pmed by a rude seller... he's called me as loser who dont hv money to buy his 11-16... he called me that just bcoz i nego a bit his price (he wrote at the thread "nego kaw2)... then he changed the price from rm1850 to rm2000.... if dont want to accept my offer its fine, but dont be rude to others la... really felt insulted...
I agree with combining D90 and D7k thread together too. More lively But then, people will start comparing D90 and D7k, and a lot users will start get heart pain when respective owners starting to compare their D90 and D7k performance
I agree with combining D90 and D7k thread together too. More lively But then, people will start comparing D90 and D7k, and a lot users will start get heart pain when respective owners starting to compare their D90 and D7k performance
agreed!!
it's still okay if d90 have their own thread.....lot of user and now it's in v10!!!
My friend told me Di866 is better than SB900. Ohh well maybe it's the price over performance ratio. I don't think so tho.
Price over performance ratio yes. But if consider the flashgun built quality, Nikon still felt more solid, not to mention it has weatherproof design too
Price over performance ratio yes. But if consider the flashgun built quality, Nikon still felt more solid, not to mention it has weatherproof design too
Just buy the Nikon SB900, i found out that the Nissin's TTL is not very accurate, well maybe it's just me
Added on November 7, 2010, 8:03 am
QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Nov 7 2010, 04:24 AM)
Price over performance ratio yes. But if consider the flashgun built quality, Nikon still felt more solid, not to mention it has weatherproof design too
Just buy the Nikon SB900, i found out that the Nissin's TTL is not very accurate, well maybe it's just me
This post has been edited by Bliz: Nov 7 2010, 08:03 AM
Just bought Metz58 AF-1 with good discount from YL camera at KLPF. May I know where to buy the diffuser for it? Found in Shashinki.com but that going to be my last resorts.
waaa... V10.. just now i got pmed by a rude seller... he's called me as loser who dont hv money to buy his 11-16... he called me that just bcoz i nego a bit his price (he wrote at the thread "nego kaw2)... then he changed the price from rm1850 to rm2000.... if dont want to accept my offer its fine, but dont be rude to others la... really felt insulted...
LOL, that is what I call real losers . Said nego, but then kutuk others. But then again, you didn't give stupid offers like 1.5k or something right?
QUOTE(Nadeje @ Nov 6 2010, 11:39 PM)
don't you think the D90 is the best camera ever?!
It is the best selling model from Nikon! At its time la, D7000 will probably overthrow the D90 sales. But D90 really gave Nikon a sales boost.
Price over performance ratio yes. But if consider the flashgun built quality, Nikon still felt more solid, not to mention it has weatherproof design too
Heard that Nissin in more powerful than SB900? Erm really, it's weatherproof?
QUOTE(Bliz @ Nov 7 2010, 07:52 AM)
Just buy the Nikon SB900, i found out that the Nissin's TTL is not very accurate, well maybe it's just me
Yeah I guess it's true, even my Di622 is not accurate. Only get it right sometimes
QUOTE(celciuz @ Nov 7 2010, 09:50 AM)
I use Demb. Versatile, but nowadays I'm kinda lazy to put the Demb on my flash LOL.
LOL me too, the whole family asked me what it is for, looks like transformers and etc. Argh they'll never understand What about the SB900 diffuser, is it reliable?
And btw, anyone know the price of SB900's battery pack? Thanks btw, you guys rock!
SB900 diffuser? Its works like a Stofen. But waste a lot of power if you bouncing to ceiling. Yesterday I was at an event with a lot of uncles killing their SB900 LOL. Put the diffuser and bounce to the ceiling of a ballroom to shoot runway. I keep hearing the high temp warning sound then after that lesser flash already LOL~
SB900 battery pack is about RM1k if not mistaken. But with that pack, it would be 1s for 1/1 power
SB900 diffuser? Its works like a Stofen. But waste a lot of power if you bouncing to ceiling. Yesterday I was at an event with a lot of uncles killing their SB900 LOL. Put the diffuser and bounce to the ceiling of a ballroom to shoot runway. I keep hearing the high temp warning sound then after that lesser flash already LOL~
SB900 battery pack is about RM1k if not mistaken. But with that pack, it would be 1s for 1/1 power
LOL. Lesser means the SB900 is dying
Yeah. I see. But for direct flash? Is it still harsh?
Woah 1k lol. I didn't know it was that expensive. Expected it to be RM300-400
Yeah, a lot SB900 had the thermal cut. Those uncle really cute hahaha! High ceiling, then bounce to the top. Got another photog even cuter, he shoot low in front of me. But his flash is bounce to the back, BOUNCE TO ME. -.-... Use me as a bounce sia.
Yeah, a lot SB900 had the thermal cut. Those uncle really cute hahaha! High ceiling, then bounce to the top. Got another photog even cuter, he shoot low in front of me. But his flash is bounce to the back, BOUNCE TO ME. -.-... Use me as a bounce sia.
Ohh ok
LOL, how long does a thermal cut last, a few sec?
Wahaha. How much does a 'celciuz' bouncer cost? Does it come with a 70200 2.8?
That's annoying lol, u didn't tell him to stop or u wore sunglasses? LOL
SB900 diffuser? Its works like a Stofen. But waste a lot of power if you bouncing to ceiling. Yesterday I was at an event with a lot of uncles killing their SB900 LOL. Put the diffuser and bounce to the ceiling of a ballroom to shoot runway. I keep hearing the high temp warning sound then after that lesser flash already LOL~
SB900 battery pack is about RM1k if not mistaken. But with that pack, it would be 1s for 1/1 power
then how to shoot with the flash??? coz the flash too strong d
Thermal cut out means you need some spare SB900s in your pouch. Swap em out and let them rest a bit. Dont risk burning the fresnel lens or the discharge tube.
In my opinion, buying 3rd party flash is a waste of money. After awhile you will want a real Nikon and have to sell the 3rd party at a huge loss. Might as well suck it down and get a real Nikon first time round.
Thermal cut out means you need some spare SB900s in your pouch. Swap em out and let them rest a bit. Dont risk burning the fresnel lens or the discharge tube.
In my opinion, buying 3rd party flash is a waste of money. After awhile you will want a real Nikon and have to sell the 3rd party at a huge loss. Might as well suck it down and get a real Nikon first time round.
Spare SB900? Haha it's even hard for me to get 1. At least I have my Nissin Di622 spare in my bag
Btw anyone know where to get those Nikon DVDs showed in the website? Any local stores selling it? Basic CLS, Basic Lighting and etc
waaa... V10.. just now i got pmed by a rude seller... he's called me as loser who dont hv money to buy his 11-16... he called me that just bcoz i nego a bit his price (he wrote at the thread "nego kaw2)... then he changed the price from rm1850 to rm2000.... if dont want to accept my offer its fine, but dont be rude to others la... really felt insulted...
Hi dude u gt same experience same as me~last time I planned to buy myself a bag...I pm-ed this seller ask him to nego bit...he said if you gt no money pls dun pm and said interested to buy his stuff~ I was $@#$@#%$ WHAT A RUDE SELLER
If the word "Nikon" and "D700" both in focus then that's gonna be awesome, but then, both of them not at the same depth, unless you set a smaller aperture
Spam some nature pic first
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This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 7 2010, 09:10 PM
dun ask me, im not previous TS, + im not a D90 user
QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Nov 7 2010, 04:24 AM)
Price over performance ratio yes. But if consider the flashgun built quality, Nikon still felt more solid, not to mention it has weatherproof design too
d thing i hate d most bout Di866 is d mount, its plastic n screw tighten, not click-lock
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 7 2010, 12:10 PM)
Heard that Nissin in more powerful than SB900? Erm really, it's weatherproof?
its waterprood except a d mount, to fully utilise d waterproofing on waterproof bodies, u must buy d waterproof mount cover
QUOTE(celciuz @ Nov 7 2010, 12:30 PM)
Haha looks ok to me .
Yeah, a lot SB900 had the thermal cut. Those uncle really cute hahaha! High ceiling, then bounce to the top. Got another photog even cuter, he shoot low in front of me. But his flash is bounce to the back, BOUNCE TO ME. -.-... Use me as a bounce sia.
actually d function of stofen/lambency/demb is act as virtual ceiling IMO, except each diffuser works differently stofen acts like an extended bulb, so if facing 90degree up it diffuses d flash 360degree around
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 7 2010, 12:36 PM)
LOL, how long does a thermal cut last, a few sec?
last a few minutes, lol no fix time, thermal cut until d bulb cool down
QUOTE(chinail @ Nov 7 2010, 01:12 PM)
then how to shoot with the flash??? coz the flash too strong d
can try manual adjust power
QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Nov 7 2010, 03:43 PM)
Celciuz, Nikkor 70-300 got VR2 meh? I saw in DCM stated that it's using VR2
VR2 means d VR is ver2, not d lens ver2 iinm 70-300 all d while was VR2
If the word "Nikon" and "D700" both in focus then that's gonna be awesome, but then, both of them not at the same depth, unless you open up bigger aperture
Spam some nature pic first
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No choice, was shooting wide open. Even at f/2.8 also can't get both focused.
Btw, SB900 got 1 or 2 years warranty? Saw 2 years for Nissin. Nikon covers overheating for the warranty? Woah nice one bro! Can share the exif? WB and flash power too if u can recall, wanna learn your technique
As far as I know Nikon always offer 1 year warranty only. and yes overheating is covered if it's really damaged by overheating.
And, celciuz always have EXIF still attached to the photo itself, you can view it in flickr~
picture spam. taken during helping my frens both Ministry Of Moment (MOM) for those who doesnt know MOM, one of the photographer is ex candid syndrome. he has awesome skills. his name is sapex @ shafiq akmal
(miss malaysia photo album)
Added on November 8, 2010, 3:29 am
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 8 2010, 01:34 AM)
Nice! Can't wait for my 16-85
Btw, SB900 got 1 or 2 years warranty? Saw 2 years for Nissin. Nikon covers overheating for the warranty? Woah nice one bro! Can share the exif? WB and flash power too if u can recall, wanna learn your technique
nikon all 1 year warranty. overheat can be overcome if u know the right technique. if u simply burst like other flash, sure gonna overheat. the reason why is SB900 are too powerfull and still almost no battery can cope its power.
This post has been edited by Isepunye: Nov 8 2010, 03:29 AM
picture spam. taken during helping my frens both Ministry Of Moment (MOM) for those who doesnt know MOM, one of the photographer is ex candid syndrome. he has awesome skills. his name is sapex @ shafiq akmal
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(miss malaysia photo album)
Added on November 8, 2010, 3:29 am nikon all 1 year warranty. overheat can be overcome if u know the right technique. if u simply burst like other flash, sure gonna overheat. the reason why is SB900 are too powerfull and still almost no battery can cope its power.
i dont think overheat is cause by battery.. it is causes by the bulb prob.. no?
i dont think overheat is cause by battery.. it is causes by the bulb prob.. no?
is it bulb? coz from what i read, it is because the battery cant support the fast charge rate from SB900. hmmmm bulb problem... i thnk if u guys dont scare the bulb to burn, just off la the limit. then u can burst like hell. but i dont guarantee it will be last
is it bulb? coz from what i read, it is because the battery cant support the fast charge rate from SB900. hmmmm bulb problem... i thnk if u guys dont scare the bulb to burn, just off la the limit. then u can burst like hell. but i dont guarantee it will be last
that's y la i think bulb prob...burst like hell den kaputt...
if battery cant support, or cant support the fast charge rate, so, the flash wont fire at all.. and no overheat la (coz of no flash fired )
I burst a lot with my SB900 during runways, but never did read the thermal cut before. Heck even when the temp doesn't go to the middle bar .
During the event where I shoot the bridals, many SB900 reached thermal cut. Those uncle was like putting stofen and bouncing to ceiling/backwards. LOL, its a ballroom man... So it depends how you use it.
Added on November 8, 2010, 8:34 am
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 8 2010, 01:34 AM)
Nice! Can't wait for my 16-85
Btw, SB900 got 1 or 2 years warranty? Saw 2 years for Nissin. Nikon covers overheating for the warranty? Woah nice one bro! Can share the exif? WB and flash power too if u can recall, wanna learn your technique
Don't bother the WB much since the color tone is processed. The white balance is pretty screwed up, I'm too lazy to be touching one by one as there's 2 lights at the back with 3 different color. Blue, green and red at the models and it keeps changing like disco light ._.
My flash is set to TTL-BL -2EV direct flash with AN-1 color temp gel for the warm environment ambient lighting.
This post has been edited by celciuz: Nov 8 2010, 08:34 AM
I burst a lot with my SB900 during runways, but never did read the thermal cut before. Heck even when the temp doesn't go to the middle bar .
During the event where I shoot the bridals, many SB900 reached thermal cut. Those uncle was like putting stofen and bouncing to ceiling/backwards. LOL, its a ballroom man... So it depends how you use it.
Added on November 8, 2010, 8:34 am Don't bother the WB much since the color tone is processed. The white balance is pretty screwed up, I'm too lazy to be touching one by one as there's 2 lights at the back with 3 different color. Blue, green and red at the models and it keeps changing like disco light ._.
My flash is set to TTL-BL -2EV direct flash with AN-1 color temp gel for the warm environment ambient lighting.
wow direct flash! It surely doesn't look harsh and very nice tone =D
Will have 5 months holiday next year, gotta work to get a SB900 to replace my noob nissin =D
Yeah, for this event I'm doing direct flash. I'm using 70200 and the models is quite a distance from me so I'm quite safe with direct flash. No point wasting flash power since I'm shooting zoom instead of wide angle.
How did you use the SB900 till it overheats? Granted I dont have an SB900, but I use SB800s with 5 batts a lot, and have never, ever gotten it to overheat in the past 4 years...
How did you use the SB900 till it overheats? Granted I dont have an SB900, but I use SB800s with 5 batts a lot, and have never, ever gotten it to overheat in the past 4 years...
A lot of ppl tend to turn off the protection and abuse it kau kau.
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(adriancs @ Nov 8 2010, 10:57 AM)
How did you use the SB900 till it overheats? Granted I dont have an SB900, but I use SB800s with 5 batts a lot, and have never, ever gotten it to overheat in the past 4 years...
SB-800 don't have such issue because it don't come with temperature control IIRC.
picture spam. taken during helping my frens both Ministry Of Moment (MOM) for those who doesnt know MOM, one of the photographer is ex candid syndrome. he has awesome skills. his name is sapex @ shafiq akmal
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
(miss malaysia photo album)
Added on November 8, 2010, 3:29 am nikon all 1 year warranty. overheat can be overcome if u know the right technique. if u simply burst like other flash, sure gonna overheat. the reason why is SB900 are too powerfull and still almost no battery can cope its power.
who's MOM??..and who's sapex@shafiq akmal??..
sometimes,the problem with sb900 overheating is caused by the battery itself that cant cope with the flash unit..the battery itself overheat..some had said that by using a normal 1.5v battery will overcame this as most of us is using the 1.2v re-chargeable battery right?
^ those normal disposable batteries don't overheat much because their cycle rate is slower compared to rechargeable. Try it yourself. Time the 1/1 flash power recharge rate and compare between disposable and rechargeable.
Yeah, RM4600 for the 85mm. Lens like this I don't quite dare to do postage actually haha. Prefer to see the unit, then pay and grab it. But for other smaller stuffs like filters I don't mind getting it from postage xD.
Last I know, price is about RM250 for Hoya HD and RM300 for XS-Pro. Anywhere else giving better offers?
Don't bother the WB much since the color tone is processed. The white balance is pretty screwed up, I'm too lazy to be touching one by one as there's 2 lights at the back with 3 different color. Blue, green and red at the models and it keeps changing like disco light ._.
My flash is set to TTL-BL -2EV direct flash with AN-1 color temp gel for the warm environment ambient lighting.
I see. You shoot in raw so you can change it later?
Woah didn't know the color gels are useful. Thought it's only for creative shots LOL Have to read to whole manual to understand it I guess, getting the SB900 later Thanks btw
In wedding, moments is the most important things. Noise ? Forget about it. Client only want the moments. The noise when print out, I see nothing.
What kind of media do you usually print out for your clients? I planned to print my best collections into a book or something, rather than just storing my pics digitally.
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(geekster129 @ Nov 8 2010, 01:39 PM)
What kind of media do you usually print out for your clients? I planned to print my best collections into a book or something, rather than just storing my pics digitally.
The flower can look better than this. And why the hell f/25 ?
isn't it using smaller aperture can make the things sharp a bit? sorry for stupid question here..please forgive as well i'm a newbie in photograph. = )
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 8 2010, 04:50 PM
Sure smaller the aperture, the more DOF you can. Some lens the more you step down the sharper it gets, but that is until certain sweet spot. After that diffraction kicks in and also sharpness deteriorates. Your photo, the flower appears to be soft :S.
isn't it using smaller aperture can make the things sharp a bit? sorry for stupid question here..please forgive as well i'm a newbie in photograph. = )
Try f8. But biggest aperture(smallest number) is usually best for this kind of photos. Can blur the flowers at the back. And move the flower on the left until it doesn't appear in the pic. Kinda distracting
Sure smaller the aperture, the more DOF you can. Some lens the more you step down the sharper it gets, but that is until certain sweet spot. After that diffraction kicks in and also sharpness deteriorates. Your photo, the flower appears to be soft :S.
I'm using 18-105 ori lens by the way.. ^^ thanks for the comment and suggestion ya.
Added on November 8, 2010, 5:06 pm
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 8 2010, 05:04 PM)
Try f8. But biggest aperture(smallest number) is usually best for this kind of photos. Can blur the flowers at the back. And move the flower on the left until it doesn't appear in the pic. Kinda distracting
thanks for your suggestion again... might have a try when got chance ya..^^
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 8 2010, 05:06 PM
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(KIEN18 @ Nov 8 2010, 04:47 PM)
isn't it using smaller aperture can make the things sharp a bit? sorry for stupid question here..please forgive as well i'm a newbie in photograph. = )
If you want good-looking DOF, try to open up the aperture the max (smallest f-stop number, e.g. 3.5-5.6 on the kitlens) your lens can handle, then compensate the exposure with the shutter speed. Slower shutter speed more light, and Faster shutter speed means darker. Slower shutter speed also more prone to camera shake, if got VR, should be OK, but still will shake. Best if you use tripod.
After taking, look at your camera histogram for more accurate results on the exposure. If the blocks are more towards left, then your pic is underexposed (too dark). Otherwise your pic is overexposed (too bright). If all block towards center, then the exposure is good. I got cheated by the LCD screen many times already. Thought it's OK on the camera, but when display in my computer, some looked very dark...
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 8 2010, 06:12 PM
If you want good-looking DOF, try to open up the aperture the max (smallest f-stop number, e.g. 3.5-5.6 on the kitlens) your lens can handle, then compensate the exposure with the shutter speed. Slower shutter speed more light, and Faster shutter speed means darker. Slower shutter speed also more prone to camera shake, if got VR, should be OK, but still will shake. Best if you use tripod.
After taking, look at your camera histogram for more accurate results on the exposure. If the blocks are more towards left, then your pic is underexposed (too dark). Otherwise your pic is overexposed (too bright). If all block towards center, then the exposure is good. I got cheated by the LCD screen many times already. Thought it's OK on the camera, but when display in my computer, some looked very dark...
thanks for the information.. it helps me a lot.. if all the block towards center means the photo exposure is good?
My lens so far all doing great wide open, maybe only complain a little on the 50mm f/1.8D. Not as sharp as the other 2 wide open. Although the 1635 isn't exactly that 'wide' open haha. It is just a f/4.
best is you can have a nice hill shape in the histogram, not skewing too much to either side. That means the dark areas and light areas are balanced. But sometimes the histogram tells a subjective reading. Just use it as a reference only.
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(KIEN18 @ Nov 8 2010, 06:14 PM)
haha.. maybe my problem.. still got to learn..
Actually got different la
QUOTE(FaezFarhan @ Nov 8 2010, 06:15 PM)
@KTCY
Can see the difference between 18-70 & 16-85 in terms of shapness and overall?
VR and without VR, the most obvious different. Sharpness, I find it same or maybe 16-85 slightly, yes very slightly better. Overall ? I get 18-70 as value for money. and at 70mm, 16-85 already f/5.6 if compare to 18-70 only f/4.5
VR and without VR, the most obvious different. Sharpness, I find it same or maybe 16-85 slightly, yes very slightly better. Overall ? I get 18-70 as value for money. and at 70mm, 16-85 already f/5.6 if compare to 18-70 only f/4.5
Woah, you just made me realize.
18-70 = about RM700? 16-85 = RM2200.
Means RM1500 just for VR and slightly extra reach of 16-18 & 70-85
Guise i rarely post my pictars here coz i think i'm not up to the standard. ...but i'm looking to improve my shots. so please give constructive c n c. Thanks shot using 50 mm 1.8D
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
This post has been edited by Klesk: Nov 8 2010, 07:27 PM
best is you can have a nice hill shape in the histogram, not skewing too much to either side. That means the dark areas and light areas are balanced. But sometimes the histogram tells a subjective reading. Just use it as a reference only.
Oic.. thanks for the information again ya..sifu... ^^
Added on November 8, 2010, 7:03 pm
QUOTE(shinjun @ Nov 8 2010, 06:28 PM)
Yes, but it also depends on your environment. If you in a controlled lighting environment, then most likely the exposure will be the same.
Okay..thx sifu ya..^^
Added on November 8, 2010, 7:04 pm
QUOTE(KTCY @ Nov 8 2010, 06:31 PM)
Actually got different la
hehe.. different is i only got 20% of knowledge, but maybe you know all the knowledge about slr camera.
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 8 2010, 07:04 PM
Oic.. thanks for the information again ya..sifu... ^^
Added on November 8, 2010, 7:03 pm
Okay..thx sifu ya..^^
Haha please dun call me sifu...paiseh paiseh... Just sharing info only. I still have lots to learn.
Added on November 8, 2010, 7:09 pm
QUOTE(Klesk @ Nov 8 2010, 07:00 PM)
Guise i rarely post my pictars here coz i think i'm not up to the standard. ...but i'm looking to improve my shots. so please give constructive c n c. Thanks shot using 50 mm 1.8D
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Even though not sharp, but the dreamy look of the pic looked cute. The girl looked sweet too. Interesting concept of using a toy and the girl as subject.
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 8 2010, 07:09 PM
Haha please dun call me sifu...paiseh paiseh... Just sharing info only. I still have lots to learn.
Added on November 8, 2010, 7:09 pm
Even though not sharp, but the dreamy look of the pic looked cute. The girl looked sweet too. Interesting concept of using a toy and the girl as subject.
yeah thanks. it's her idea actually. so you reckon shooting at higher aperture value could improve image sharpness? Any other way to achieve it other than getting a new lens hehe.. i don think you could sharpen much during post processing right, i could be wrong
Actually got different la VR and without VR, the most obvious different. Sharpness, I find it same or maybe 16-85 slightly, yes very slightly better. Overall ? I get 18-70 as value for money. and at 70mm, 16-85 already f/5.6 if compare to 18-70 only f/4.5
Oh, i see. But it's so hard to look for a 2nd hand 18-70. Thinking to sell my 18-105 and either buying 16-85 which is slightly expensive for me or the 18-70 which is definitely affordable. But 18-70 no VR.
I burst a lot with my SB900 during runways, but never did read the thermal cut before. Heck even when the temp doesn't go to the middle bar .
During the event where I shoot the bridals, many SB900 reached thermal cut. Those uncle was like putting stofen and bouncing to ceiling/backwards. LOL, its a ballroom man... So it depends how you use it.
i hardly get overheat with my SB900. last event i was bursting SB900 with continuous (H mode) shutter with D300 body. still have no issue. out of 15, it all fired nice and balance. just about middle only.... >< the one i hardly burst with my SB600. damn slow recharge.
Guise i rarely post my pictars here coz i think i'm not up to the standard. ...but i'm looking to improve my shots. so please give constructive c n c. Thanks shot using 50 mm 1.8D
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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
you talk crap sir, the photos are fine. Though... i reckon sharpen abit details onto the subject then again.. it is just me... other than that... nice pictures
P/S: then again... I've seen too many photos too sharp anyway... yours, I could say story > IQ
This post has been edited by ComradeZ: Nov 8 2010, 07:44 PM
Guise i rarely post my pictars here coz i think i'm not up to the standard. ...but i'm looking to improve my shots. so please give constructive c n c. Thanks shot using 50 mm 1.8D
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
the are nice. ur tone and soft image makes it feel more dreamy and lovely feeling. 1st i thnk its better the box thng look at her + ask her leg to fit in the frame. 2nd pict IMO need lower angle. trust me it much better but sacrifice la u need to lie down 3rd u already OOF. nose sharper then eyes but hey for fun rite? it still usable. even wedding photo i always OOF
for the outside spoiler picture, why not sharp at box face instead of above side?
Still in Kelantan lor. My mom is not well, she's been affected with leukemia. So I postponed my intake till January
Btw I don't see people using the 16-85. Most people doesn't know about this lens too. Hurm too overpriced?
Perhaps it's not as famous as the CZ 16-80mm lol. I also seldom see people using that, more people will go for 18-200 at that price range because they just want longer reach. But obviously 16-85 is better.
Still in Kelantan lor. My mom is not well, she's been affected with leukemia. So I postponed my intake till January
Btw I don't see people using the 16-85. Most people doesn't know about this lens too. Hurm too overpriced?
I have only seen the 16-85 once cause only 1 of my friend uses it. The common ones are the 18-105, 18-55 and Tamron 17-50 VC for DX lens among my circle of friends haha. 18-200 also not common among my friends :S.
I can see the depth of field there is quite shallow. So, your focusing has to be quite precise. I'm not sure what shutter speed you are using and focal length. The longer you zoom at the pic, the more prone it can get camera shake. General rule of thumb if possible is to have your shutter speed faster than your focal length. E.g. If you zoom at 85mm then your shutter speed should be faster than 1/80s, maybe 1/100s and above. Another thing if possible is to get ample lighting. Your pic will look slightly sharper if the lighting is good. I think you have to fine tune the focus a bit more. In a condition where depth of field is too shallow, you have to take more pics with diff focus adjustments, if you're manual. I understand sometimes autofocus may not do its job well under high magnification.
I can see the depth of field there is quite shallow. So, your focusing has to be quite precise. I'm not sure what shutter speed you are using and focal length. The longer you zoom at the pic, the more prone it can get camera shake. General rule of thumb if possible is to have your shutter speed faster than your focal length. E.g. If you zoom at 85mm then your shutter speed should be faster than 1/80s, maybe 1/100s and above. Another thing if possible is to get ample lighting. Your pic will look slightly sharper if the lighting is good. I think you have to fine tune the focus a bit more. In a condition where depth of field is too shallow, you have to take more pics with diff focus adjustments, if you're manual. I understand sometimes autofocus may not do its job well under high magnification.
But if i used shutter speed 1/80s or 1/100s the picture will get darker.. the exposure time of this photo is 0.62sec...
But if i used shutter speed 1/80s or 1/100s the picture will get darker.. the exposure time of this photo is 0.62sec...
0.62s? Your surrounding must be very dark! Try to experiment with higher ISO like what celciuz mentioned. Or otherwise, find somewhere with better lighting.
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:08 am
QUOTE(zstan @ Nov 9 2010, 10:04 AM)
if i didn't guess wrongly..you took the shot while placing the camera on the floor?
bursting your shots might help as well. =D
why bursting the shots can help?
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 9 2010, 10:08 AM
0.62s? Your surrounding must be very dark! Try to experiment with higher ISO like what celciuz mentioned. Or otherwise, find somewhere with better lighting.
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:08 am
why bursting the shots can help?
should add use lower shutter speed, and burst the shots. bursting might give u a higher chance of getting sharp shots
then again, if you focus manually, the subject not in 100% focus, u burst gao gao also won't help.
should add use lower shutter speed, and burst the shots. bursting might give u a higher chance of getting sharp shots
then again, if you focus manually, the subject not in 100% focus, u burst gao gao also won't help.
That's why have to take multiple shots of different focus adjustments, take one, move the focus ring slightly, take another, then pick the best pic, just my ideas lar.
0.62s? Your surrounding must be very dark! Try to experiment with higher ISO like what celciuz mentioned. Or otherwise, find somewhere with better lighting.
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:08 am
why bursting the shots can help?
At such slow shutter speed, bursting a few shot will help to nail photo without handshake.
That's why have to take multiple shots of different focus adjustments, take one, move the focus ring slightly, take another, then pick the best pic, just my ideas lar.
i wouldn't rely on manual focusing on a APS-C with such a small view finder. unless he/she is using live view with manual focus assist. or else, it wouldn't really be accurate.
if i didn't guess wrongly..you took the shot while placing the camera on the floor?
bursting your shots might help as well. =D
Ya..i place my camera on the floor.. by the way, what is bursting my shoot?
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:43 am
QUOTE(geekster129 @ Nov 9 2010, 10:06 AM)
0.62s? Your surrounding must be very dark! Try to experiment with higher ISO like what celciuz mentioned. Or otherwise, find somewhere with better lighting.
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:08 am
en..
Added on November 9, 2010, 10:45 amSo, for the summary is...when in dark place, use higher ISO and smaller aperture ( with large number) is it?
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 9 2010, 10:45 AM
comparing nikon 17-55 wif tamron 17-50... is d quality different alot...? coz wana see izit worthy to get nikon for extra 2.5k... thx for all d sifu advice...
comparing nikon 17-55 wif tamron 17-50... is d quality different alot...? coz wana see izit worthy to get nikon for extra 2.5k... thx for all d sifu advice...
what you pay is what you get. applies to all lens and all systems, in general la though
This post has been edited by zstan: Nov 9 2010, 11:01 AM
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Nov 9 2010, 10:59 AM)
comparing nikon 17-55 wif tamron 17-50... is d quality different alot...? coz wana see izit worthy to get nikon for extra 2.5k... thx for all d sifu advice...
YESH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HELL LOT !!! TAMRON color very dull
p/s : You still non stop gear hunting huh ? And photos ?
I haven't seen the comparison between the 17-55 and 17-50 before, but is it the differences in terms of color contrast like 85mm f/1.4D versus the 85mm f/1.4G?
I haven't seen the comparison between the 17-55 and 17-50 before, but is it the differences in terms of color contrast like 85mm f/1.4D versus the 85mm f/1.4G?
I've seen and try them myself. When shooting objects under low light, the colour output is not as vibrant as nikkor 17-55 If you take D and G lens to compare, tamron 17-50 is much more worse than that
haha... gear hunting i think yes ar... nid a portrait lens for sure... after i sold my tammy and use back d kit lens... i was like... "WTF,y IQ different so much,maybe i'm using a p&s"... so i think i'm a bit of gear hunter... i'm quite satisfy wif d tammy vc... jz haven't tested d nikon 1755... so wana ask for some opinion...
haha... gear hunting i think yes ar... nid a portrait lens for sure... after i sold my tammy and use back d kit lens... i was like... "WTF,y IQ different so much,maybe i'm using a p&s"... so i think i'm a bit of gear hunter... i'm quite satisfy wif d tammy vc... jz haven't tested d nikon 1755... so wana ask for some opinion...
A 50mm F/1.4 lens is a very good portrait lens for DX sensor, if u dun mind the weight and cost may I suggest the 70-200Vr2
i nid wide open for group photo in packed place oso... so 70-200 vr2 is out... haha... no budget oso... erm... reali nid to test out d 1755 if got budget...
I'd tested the 50mm f1.2L (canon's) attached to Oly's EP-1 wahlao bokeh sooo good..as I always say, smooth like diarrhoea.. Manual lens have it kinks but for portrait I use it at f2-f4 and its doing good also..
Not much lens like these are available now, so grab it if u can get ur hands on one..
There's always the AF-chip (AFAiK canon and sony have it, nikon don't know yet).. Last time bought my 8mm FE (manual) and my Sony fren have the chip on his..functions well (he claimed so)..
// trying to upload pics but slow line here.using blackberry to go online
i nid wide open for group photo in packed place oso... so 70-200 vr2 is out... haha... no budget oso... erm... reali nid to test out d 1755 if got budget...
Usually only wides have petal hoods as the lens needs to see more out the far edges. For normal and teles the angle of view is very narrow, thus a full hood will do.
Usually only wides have petal hoods as the lens needs to see more out the far edges. For normal and teles the angle of view is very narrow, thus a full hood will do.
My 70200 comes with a petal hood . Smaller hood than the VR1 too, I guess it is for the breathing issue lol.
LOL yeah, VRII's hood so small. I suppose for the breathing issue as at MFD the 200mm is about 135mm only. So if use the same petal hood like the older VR might vignette instead?
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
No idea. I tried to put VR1 on D700. Vignette is very very minor actually. Near to none. I guess it should be fine for me to keep the VR 1 even I'm on FF.
No idea. I tried to put VR1 on D700. Vignette is very very minor actually. Near to none. I guess it should be fine for me to keep the VR 1 even I'm on FF.
Corner softness shall be more pronounced but then it's not so critical for a telelens i guess but when people are paying a lot for a lens they expect perfection
No idea. I tried to put VR1 on D700. Vignette is very very minor actually. Near to none. I guess it should be fine for me to keep the VR 1 even I'm on FF.
One of my friend was using VR1 before the VR2 came out, ditched the VR1 for VR2 for the edge sharpness lol.
Lol bro, stop poisoning me lar .. I am waiting for some portrait shots of yours using this lens
Don't know can arrange this weekend or not, but after Monday night sure got shots . Might need to stock up more memory card perhaps . Previously using 70200 in low light, haih need to pump iso + flash. Now with f/1.4 can use natural light or flash to fill only ngek ngek.
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(Bliz @ Nov 10 2010, 09:05 AM)
Corner softness shall be more pronounced but then it's not so critical for a telelens i guess but when people are paying a lot for a lens they expect perfection
curious. How do you guys define portraiture? Headshot only? Head and shoulder? Head to waist? Full body shot? Difference lens for different coverage, right?
I'm trying to relate to filmmaking. Like they got closeup, medium shot, long shot, etc. in the scripts...just some suggestion...
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 10 2010, 12:23 PM
IF its on a FF body..generally portrait lens will be 85mm and 135mm..
Depends the question is based on film photography or digital photography... If 35mm film photog, i assume it's ff lor. (if the question technical to some extent )
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 10 2010, 12:35 PM
Haha thx guys, just handed in the paper. Exam over woohoo! Answer is B btw, just asked my lecturer. His explanation is 50mm is too short on FF or film, so the correct one should be 85mm and 105mm.
Haha thx guys, just handed in the paper. Exam over woohoo! Answer is B btw, just asked my lecturer. His explanation is 50mm is too short on FF or film, so the correct one should be 85mm and 105mm.
btw... wana ask all d sifu... crumpler 4 or 5 million...
which is enuf for d90 wif grip & 1755 on(not seperately)... a prime + a flash... wif a little extra space for accessories...? thinking to get one... not going for zoom adi at d moment... too far away from my budget...
btw... wana ask all d sifu... crumpler 4 or 5 million...
which is enuf for d90 wif grip & 1755 on(not seperately)... a prime + a flash... wif a little extra space for accessories...? thinking to get one... not going for zoom adi at d moment... too far away from my budget...
I would seriously recommend 7mil dollar home instead of 4/5. because I only have D90+kit, one flash and i don't find 7 million too big though. I can fit chargers and batteries all inside nicely. If 5 mil for your gears is just enough but if you have more lenses in the future wont fit...
i jz nid a small bag for basic gear onli... as i stated above... not more den dat... will upgrade later if i hav enuf money to go for zoom lens... so basically jz nid to fit all d setup i mention onli... compact and easi is my priority for all d setup i mention... not for future...
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(freddy manson @ Nov 10 2010, 03:51 PM)
so no need the 70200 loh
Thinking to sell
QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Nov 10 2010, 04:28 PM)
i jz nid a small bag for basic gear onli... as i stated above... not more den dat... will upgrade later if i hav enuf money to go for zoom lens... so basically jz nid to fit all d setup i mention onli... compact and easi is my priority for all d setup i mention... not for future...
D90 mount with 17-55 ? my 7 million fit nicely with lots of space for more lens even with 70-200
I'm a newbie and need to buy a camera by this weekend. Currently, I am considering between Nikon D3100 & D90.
I read that there is a replacement for D90 i.e. D7000 but it is not available in Malaysia yet and the price is going to be expensive (>5k). So, guess I will stick to D90 right now.
However, since D3100 is recently launched, I assume it has better specs and technology compare to D90. But D90 is the choice of many photography buffs here. Can you advise me which one should I choose.
i jz nid a small bag for basic gear onli... as i stated above... not more den dat... will upgrade later if i hav enuf money to go for zoom lens... so basically jz nid to fit all d setup i mention onli... compact and easi is my priority for all d setup i mention... not for future...
Nikon bag can't fit? Sometimes when I'm lazy to bring my backpack, just put inside the Nikon bag. D90 with 17-50 attached, 55-200 & Di622
hehe... i jz wan to fit d things stated above onli... wana be light & easi... as smallest as possible... so thinking 4 or 5 million onli... zoom nono at d moment... jz aound (body + grip + 1750 or 1755)attached + a prime + a flash at d moment... so wana ask some advice see how...
This post has been edited by Str33tBoY: Nov 10 2010, 05:31 PM
LOL I'd rather be carrying 1 heavy lens than a lot of light ones. Plus the need of swapping lens
I dun mind carrying more n swapping lenses if it gives far superior iq + few more stops faster
QUOTE(KTCY @ Nov 10 2010, 02:27 PM)
I prefer swapping lens Prime still my favourite all time lens
Im so agree wif this
QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Nov 10 2010, 03:42 PM)
btw... wana ask all d sifu... crumpler 4 or 5 million...
which is enuf for d90 wif grip & 1755 on(not seperately)... a prime + a flash... wif a little extra space for accessories...? thinking to get one... not going for zoom adi at d moment... too far away from my budget...
Iinm, 7mdh n above oni can fit body+grip, even 6mdh put body+grip nid 2 squeeze d
yeah...spec for d3100 and d90 almost the same...d3100 come with 3fps while d90 come with 4.5fps... and d3100 iso can boost up to 12800 ...and it come with Full HD 1080p video recording while d90 only 720p.. if u dont mind about video recording better get d90
Yeah, I dont need the video recording, really.
I plan to use the camera for a long period of time since I am not into photography that much. Just want to have a good camera since I will be traveling to a distant land far far away... I am afraid with the introduction of D7000, D90 will become a dinosaur. How long can I expect to use this camera and not carrying a dinosaur? Is 8 years reasonable?
I plan to use the camera for a long period of time since I am not into photography that much. Just want to have a good camera since I will be traveling to a distant land far far away... I am afraid with the introduction of D7000, D90 will become a dinosaur. How long can I expect to use this camera and not carrying a dinosaur? Is 8 years reasonable?
Even if you get D7000, 8years later it will not become dinosaur but an artifact.
y r u afraid of it bcomin a dinosaur? even it bcame a dinosaur, as long as it is functioning, it can do wat it's suppose to do, u still can take nice pictures still a lot of D80 users though outshone by D90, bt they stil produce nice images heck even D3 is count as dinosaur d, bt its still rocking
y r u afraid of it bcomin a dinosaur? even it bcame a dinosaur, as long as it is functioning, it can do wat it's suppose to do, u still can take nice pictures still a lot of D80 users though outshone by D90, bt they stil produce nice images heck even D3 is count as dinosaur d, bt its still rocking
I am newbie only maa. Need to ask silly questions.
d90 is a really great camera. Even just the kitlens it is producing great images. I haven't even plug in a prime to unleash even nicer looking pics.. Haha..
Slr usually won't reach the point it become a dinosaur. As time goes by, the image output is still awesome. Just that lacking features. If i ever got a chance, i still wanted to shoot again with my dad's minolta film rangefinder camera. The picture quality is nice. But too bad, it has retired after 30 years of service. It was made in the year 1969.
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 10 2010, 06:55 PM
I didn't say that the kitlens can produce up to the point of super awesome looking images with bokehlicious depth of field, but it has served me well for the past few events.
Btw, the 18-105 kitlens is not any cheap glass wei.
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 10 2010, 07:19 PM
They changed their name to Beyond Photography Academy d Cos they cater to all brands bt d old name sounded focus on Nikon oni This was annouced during klpf
They changed their name to Beyond Photography Academy d Cos they cater to all brands bt d old name sounded focus on Nikon oni This was annouced during klpf
They changed their name to Beyond Photography Academy d Cos they cater to all brands bt d old name sounded focus on Nikon oni This was annouced during klpf
Lol, when i go klpf on the 1st day, it's still called Nikonian Academy What about the website address? Got change?
This post has been edited by edwardgsk: Nov 10 2010, 08:32 PM
They changed their name to Beyond Photography Academy d Cos they cater to all brands bt d old name sounded focus on Nikon oni This was annouced during klpf
LOL don't worry edward both of us failed
Beyond Photography, sounds weird
Btw guys, which other academy available for courses and stuff like this?
Haha, totally forgot about increasing ISO to compensate for low light situations.
Noise is far far better than blur
Btw, if fill flash indoor in dim-light situation using 1/10 shutter, is it true that the subject will be sharp, only the background will be blurry? Read in some article but haven't tried it. Scared to go that low of shutter speed
Btw, if fill flash indoor in dim-light situation using 1/10 shutter, is it true that the subject will be sharp, only the background will be blurry? Read in some article but haven't tried it. Scared to go that low of shutter speed
not true
anything below 1/60 prone to subject movement..even shot at 1/60 with flash also cannot freeze the subject if it moves fast
Btw, if fill flash indoor in dim-light situation using 1/10 shutter, is it true that the subject will be sharp, only the background will be blurry? Read in some article but haven't tried it. Scared to go that low of shutter speed
i hv read somewhere in mags, to avoid blur usually the shutter speed is set to min length of lens... exp, if the focal length is 60mm, the shutter speed is set to min 1/60 to avoid blur.. is it true?
looking at your guys. sharing opinion here and exchanging information, i should pity my D90 which I bought it and place it in my closet most of the time. Though I always bring it out to clean it very often.....i am feeling sinful...
i hv read somewhere in mags, to avoid blur usually the shutter speed is set to min length of lens... exp, if the focal length is 60mm, the shutter speed is set to min 1/60 to avoid blur.. is it true?
It still depends on how the lighting conditions are, isn't it? Like dim lighting takkan take at 1/60s right?
looking at your guys. sharing opinion here and exchanging information, i should pity my D90 which I bought it and place it in my closet most of the time. Though I always bring it out to clean it very often.....i am feeling sinful...
give it to me.... i promise to use it wisely.. hehe
btw, is there a diff if i use the WB cap without flash and with flash?
Added on November 10, 2010, 11:03 pm
QUOTE(razuryza @ Nov 10 2010, 11:00 PM)
increase the ISO la.. so that the shutter speed and focul length also the exposure would be nice one!
and dont forget.. for DX u must times 1.6
owh, thats why my cousin said that DX tends to blur more compared to FX...
This post has been edited by faareast: Nov 10 2010, 11:03 PM
looking at your guys. sharing opinion here and exchanging information, i should pity my D90 which I bought it and place it in my closet most of the time. Though I always bring it out to clean it very often.....i am feeling sinful...
Have no moving subject for the moment. Bro slept already. Shot a non-moving subject just now, seem ok. Haha
Btw, I set the lowest power on my Nissin, still kinda powerful Need to use TTL for less brightness Ohh I see. Nice facility? Checked the website, very expensive meh. RM390 for flash course I think he meant DX must time 1.6 which is longer so need faster shutter
yeah.. the building is a 3 story building.. i like their Lobby... rm390 is quite cheap.. based on teaching method, and class capacity... the free class i went was sponsored by canon..hehe
So far I like my 7mil dollar very much. Last time from cheap OEM sling bag to kata DR-467 backpack, then to bagman sling bag, then finally sold all and get this 7mil.
looking at your guys. sharing opinion here and exchanging information, i should pity my D90 which I bought it and place it in my closet most of the time. Though I always bring it out to clean it very often.....i am feeling sinful...
buy and keep it in the show case what for? for next generation ek? like patek philip? uhuhu
go out and shoot2 la.. anywhere also can... toilet also cann
nice bro ise... btw... 7 million reali look very big for me... coz i nid a bag dat won't feel bulky to carry along... maybe i'll jz take 5 million and try... coz i see from d photo... d 6 million adi seems big...
This post has been edited by Str33tBoY: Nov 11 2010, 12:21 AM
Btw IIRC bro celciuz said we can set the shutter speed more than 1/200 while using SB900. It's called high-speed sync right? Meaning easier to fill flash. I seriously have to start using manual
Gonna read 'Manual Made Easy' in DigitalSLR magazine while waiting for Man City vs Man Utd tonight
Btw IIRC bro celciuz said we can set the shutter speed more than 1/200 while using SB900. It's called high-speed sync right? Meaning easier to fill flash. I seriously have to start using manual
Gonna read 'Manual Made Easy' in DigitalSLR magazine while waiting for Man City vs Man Utd tonight
of course u can.. but.. if the ambient light is not enough, the background will be dark also
Added on November 11, 2010, 1:23 amno need to using manual la.. start READing the manual la.. even in TTL also can do dat
This post has been edited by razuryza: Nov 11 2010, 01:23 AM
I am actually having 2 lens i have in mind... Only have budget for one of these in my pocket now... 1. 70-200mm f/2.8 Nikkor telezoom 2. 11-16mm f/2.8 Tokina UWA
The question is which would be more useful on a actual wedding day? Given the following circumstances: 1. Don't really fancy taking candid or should I say "spy shots" 2. Wants to have the whole wedding moments captured in both the wedding ceremony and the wedding reception.
Whats your experience on this area? Which do you use more often in a wedding?
I am actually having 2 lens i have in mind... Only have budget for one of these in my pocket now... 1. 70-200mm f/2.8 Nikkor telezoom 2. 11-16mm f/2.8 Tokina UWA
The question is which would be more useful on a actual wedding day? Given the following circumstances: 1. Don't really fancy taking candid or should I say "spy shots" 2. Wants to have the whole wedding moments captured in both the wedding ceremony and the wedding reception.
Whats your experience on this area? Which do you use more often in a wedding?
thanks.
based on what u given, buy the tokina. more usefull for creativeness
btw... ani sb900 user can teach me how to trigger wireless flash wif body flash...? nid to do alot of setting izit...? coz last time i use nissin very easy... thx... coz i switch remote i think... thought can easily like nissin...
I am actually having 2 lens i have in mind... Only have budget for one of these in my pocket now... 1. 70-200mm f/2.8 Nikkor telezoom 2. 11-16mm f/2.8 Tokina UWA
The question is which would be more useful on a actual wedding day? Given the following circumstances: 1. Don't really fancy taking candid or should I say "spy shots" 2. Wants to have the whole wedding moments captured in both the wedding ceremony and the wedding reception.
Whats your experience on this area? Which do you use more often in a wedding?
thanks.
Since you have enough budget for the 70-200 2.8, why not go for the Nikkor 14-24 2.8 N? And yeah UWA suit your style more
btw... ani sb900 user can teach me how to trigger wireless flash wif body flash...? nid to do alot of setting izit...? coz last time i use nissin very easy... thx... coz i switch remote i think... thought can easily like nissin...
i think so.. hehe...thanks for the comment. How about this one?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Added on November 11, 2010, 9:55 am
shutter speed faster, picture get darker.. shutter speed slower, picture get bright..am i right?
True but also wrong... this is why people keep getting the wrong kind of picture they wanted.... if you want to make it darker... should adjust the aperture first..make it big number meaning that the aperture will be give less light come into the sensor and small number aperture so that the light will full expose to the sensor according to the lens capabilities meaning how fast can a lens go
True but also wrong... this is why people keep getting the wrong kind of picture they wanted.... if you want to make it darker... should adjust the aperture first..make it big number meaning that the aperture will be give less light come into the sensor and small number aperture so that the light will full expose to the sensor according to the lens capabilities meaning how fast can a lens go
but shutter speed will effect the image get darker and brighter right?
but shutter speed will effect the image get darker and brighter right?
thats why i said "true" first then wrong at the second.... because it is true that shutter speed can affect the exposure for the photo but it is not the main use for it.... the job is for aperture is more relevant than shutter speed
Highlughts, contrast and color???? please ''tunjuk ajar'' a little bit..hehe
Added on November 11, 2010, 10:55 am
QUOTE(ComradeZ @ Nov 11 2010, 10:47 AM)
thats why i said "true" first then wrong at the second.... because it is true that shutter speed can affect the exposure for the photo but it is not the main use for it.... the job is for aperture is more relevant than shutter speed
oic..i get it.. so aperture played the important role too.. large aperture (with small number ) means more lights get in. Small aperture (with large number) means less lights get in..am i right? for sunny day, i should smaller aperture such as f16 etc is it? for night, use large aperture ( with small number) to allow more lights get in??
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 11 2010, 10:55 AM
Highlughts, contrast and color???? please ''tunjuk ajar'' a little bit..hehe
Added on November 11, 2010, 10:55 am
oic..i get it.. so aperture played the important role too.. large aperture (with small number ) means more lights get in. Small aperture (with large number) means less lights get in..am i right? for sunny day, i should smaller aperture such as f16 etc is it? for night, use large aperture ( with small number) to allow more lights get in??
Once you have fullfiled ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture, you have the last ingredient to fulfill: Lighthing/Patience/Look for other places
Sometimes due to weather, the lighting is just not desirable for the overall output, which either makes the picture looked dull and flat. Different timings have different lighting effects on the final color, bright sunny days usually will produce sharp looking and desirable pictures. Even for sunset, between 6-8pm, you have to be very patient and wait until the best lighting which gives you a very stunning output.
Highlughts, contrast and color???? please ''tunjuk ajar'' a little bit..hehe
Added on November 11, 2010, 10:55 am
oic..i get it.. so aperture played the important role too.. large aperture (with small number ) means more lights get in. Small aperture (with large number) means less lights get in..am i right? for sunny day, i should smaller aperture such as f16 etc is it? for night, use large aperture ( with small number) to allow more lights get in??
lol yep, you should know that in order to snap a good picture. When you want to get blue sky picture at ... let say 1-4 oclock (depend if the cloud are puffy enough) you must use like f14-16 with 1/ or Shutter speed of 200-300 to get a grip of those blue sky and the cotton candy clouds.
I'm a fan of cotton cloud and blue skies, so I keep in note of my shots taken. You could try this on your own when you have free time
sadly originally im a portrait kinda guy.... been lock in room lately and work during day.... maybe ill go down town during weekends
This post has been edited by ComradeZ: Nov 11 2010, 11:12 AM
lol yep, you should know that in order to snap a good picture. When you want to get blue sky picture at ... let say 1-4 oclock (depend if the cloud are puffy enough) you must use like f14-16 with 1/ or Shutter speed of 200-300 to get a grip of those blue sky and the cotton candy clouds.
I'm a fan of cotton cloud and blue skies, so I keep in note of my shots taken. You could try this on your own when you have free time sadly originally im a portrait kinda guy.... been lock in room lately and work during day.... maybe ill go down town during weekends
hehe.. so for totally sunny day.. like 1-4 o'clock, shutter speed/ exposure time should be 1/200-300 lah? by the way, thanks for the information again and again.. coz i still new on D90....hope you can tunjuk ajar a bit..
Added on November 11, 2010, 11:16 am
QUOTE(geekster129 @ Nov 11 2010, 11:07 AM)
Once you have fullfiled ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture, you have the last ingredient to fulfill: Lighthing/Patience/Look for other places
Sometimes due to weather, the lighting is just not desirable for the overall output, which either makes the picture looked dull and flat. Different timings have different lighting effects on the final color, bright sunny days usually will produce sharp looking and desirable pictures. Even for sunset, between 6-8pm, you have to be very patient and wait until the best lighting which gives you a very stunning output.
oic.. must timing ngam ngam lah..
This post has been edited by KIEN18: Nov 11 2010, 11:16 AM
lol yep, you should know that in order to snap a good picture. When you want to get blue sky picture at ... let say 1-4 oclock (depend if the cloud are puffy enough) you must use like f14-16 with 1/ or Shutter speed of 200-300 to get a grip of those blue sky and the cotton candy clouds.
I'm a fan of cotton cloud and blue skies, so I keep in note of my shots taken. You could try this on your own when you have free time sadly originally im a portrait kinda guy.... been lock in room lately and work during day.... maybe ill go down town during weekends
Speaking about puffy clouds:
The sun was right behind the clouds, illuminating the back of it, giving an interesting glowing effect.
Just saw some nice looking shape clouds at around 2pm yesterday, but only lasts for 5mins
Snapped with my phone only, no DSLR, ND Grad filters whatsoever with me at the moment...
This post has been edited by geekster129: Nov 11 2010, 11:23 AM
If I were to use DSLR in auto mode and compare it between D90 and D3100, would the pictures be of the same quality?
usually it will become compact camera quality .... unless you use auto creative mode... like shutter speed priority or aperture priority mode then you will see the diff
Yeah, this is what I like about this lens. Capable of shooting wide open and image is still sharp enough (for me at least). Haha... still no time... LOL.
It is about 50%~70% charged. Not fully charged de.
That lens is very good at 1.4. Well, that's what you get from the price right. No prob we'll wait patiently
Ohh so it's better tp charge it full first before using. Just got it together with SB900
with cheap china made wireless trigger la tu dia tak kasi
How much are the cheapest trigger to trigger my SB900 & Di622 wirelessly?
I tried blasting at 1/1 just now, gila powerful. Even with hangit smell And with it's bag, it takes much more space in my bag compared to my Di622 which I can fold to 90 degree
Ohh edit 1 more question, the zoom ring of the 16-85 is smooth or rough to zoom in and out? Coz my tammy is really rough/heavy. Always feel weird after using the 55-200 coz the 55-200 is really smooth
This post has been edited by FaezFarhan: Nov 12 2010, 04:44 AM
1* How much are the cheapest trigger to trigger my SB900 & Di622 wirelessly?
2* I tried blasting at 1/1 just now, gila powerful. Even with hangit smell And with it's bag, it takes much more space in my bag compared to my Di622 which I can fold to 90 degree
Ohh edit 1 more question, the zoom ring of the 16-85 is smooth or rough to zoom in and out? Coz my tammy is really rough/heavy. Always feel weird after using the 55-200 coz the 55-200 is really smooth
1* cheap2 u can get anywhere, ebay also got lots of it.. lelong.my also have.. but dont buy things that can ruin ur speedlight bro.. wont it be just ironic IF ur RM80 trigger ruins ur RM1600 speedlight? 2* time for a bigger bag liao~
jz sold my kit lens... now lensless... macam a car without tyre... hunting for a nikkon 17-55(maybe)... as d price is quite high... or ani suggestion better den tammy 1750...? as sifu advice dat tammy colour not gd...
jz sold my kit lens... now lensless... macam a car without tyre... hunting for a nikkon 17-55(maybe)... as d price is quite high... or ani suggestion better den tammy 1750...? as sifu advice dat tammy colour not gd...
24-70 or 17-55. You got nothing else to blame after you get those lens . There's no better zoom in that range .
haha... kit lens i wana sell quite long time ago adi... it's not easi to sell since every d90 user owns it... 24-70 maybe not wide enuf for me... so might get 17-55... last goal for a portrait zoom...
70-200 on FF yummy. Of course can't compare with prime la. That's a reason why I'm a prime lover
Sure... but now I realize how heavy 70200 was. LOL, before this used to lugging the 70200 around so actually don't feel it. Now used to weight of the 85mm hahaha ._. Damn am getting weaker after using primes.
Joined: May 2007
From: Triumph in the Skies Status:In LoV3 Again
QUOTE(celciuz @ Nov 12 2010, 11:11 AM)
Sure... but now I realize how heavy 70200 was. LOL, before this used to lugging the 70200 around so actually don't feel it. Now used to weight of the 85mm hahaha ._. Damn am getting weaker after using primes.
Now you know how I feel when I get 70200 after been using prime for years !
1* cheap2 u can get anywhere, ebay also got lots of it.. lelong.my also have.. but dont buy things that can ruin ur speedlight bro.. wont it be just ironic IF ur RM80 trigger ruins ur RM1600 speedlight? 2* time for a bigger bag liao~
LOL. Ok2 not the cheapest, but not that expensive. Like realible ones. Any recommendations?
My bad is very big already. Targus, but forgot the model. Racer or something
QUOTE(celciuz @ Nov 12 2010, 09:27 AM)
D7000 is better than D90 is all aspects ;-). But it is still a DX.
Yeah some people telling me to upgrade to FX instead. I have enough budget to upgrade the body but lens, not yet. There's no point of upgrading to FX if you don't have decent N lenses. I'd rather upgrade to D7000 together with my skills first
Nov 6 2010, 10:24 PM, updated 16y ago
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