I heard Liqui-moly is very wet and smooth. Is it true?

hi all...last serviced my '02 wira 1.5 auto in june.,used eneos 10w40 semi., was advised can use up to 10k, but now after 6.5k car feels sluggish but also recently flywheel oil seal found to be leaking so im not sure whether thats causing the sluggishness..since changing the seal is quite a big job, im half decided as to whther to change the EO together, and if I do, im split between choosing the 2 most highlighted EOs, magnatec & LMoly (both 10w40)..which would u all sifus recommend?many thx in advance

try liqui moly
its more like thicker version of oil instead of ordinary oil
should give u a much better experience

expecting majority of semi-synthetic EO to last 10k km (even liqui moly) is just being delusional man.

more so in our hot/humid weather, insane traffic jam stop-go driving.

=edited keyword=

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 22 2013, 12:43 AM

thanks for the quick replies guys, was expecting email notfctns but rcvd none..

well i'll keep those in mind & will do a minor survey of availability & price...anyway ive changed my idea of 'strictly' adhering to any foreman's tips anymore since i can get more end users' reviews reports & tips...my car is 12yo so from now on it will still be on semi but with 5k intervals..that shud be safe i assume.

more inputs will be appreciated and be useful to others too..

one more thing...for wira 1.5 gear oil, is mitsu diaqueen splll advisable? most wira forum members recommends it but few are against saying its synthetic, thus too thin for wira gbox and may affect other parts or seals or something in future..is that true..can someone enlighten on that pls

Tried Eneos last time and had to change in about 7-8k as can feel the engine running quite rough. I think changing every 7k would be good.

oh forgot to edit it:
majority of semi-syn EO**

fully synthetic no issue though.

doesn't matter what car, following manufacturer recommendations with/without own "common sense" would be best.
btw my 14 year old car is having a 11k OCI (running on 2nd oil filter already just to be safe, original proton only rm8 so why the heck not. absolutely no performance degradation yet) because i still didn't get to work on my valve cover yet rofl.
then again i've used the exact same EO and it lasted 16k km and that gave me a LOT of confidence

oh if your wira is automatic, try caltex ATF-J (semi synthetic) + lubegard platinum
no comment for mitsu diaqueen, however if your gb is confirmed to be under mitsu, you'd think that mitsubishi want to kill their own gb? lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 22 2013, 12:44 AM

noted bro....now OCI of between 5-7k sounds a little bit more ideal..whc type of eneos u used? thx anyway

dont have the manual to refer the manufacturer's recommendations bro as i bought it from a friend of friend, he misplaced it..will anyway google for it..

great man ur car lasts 11 & 16km...wat is that, magic oil? hahah..can u be more specific bro, did u use a single oil change & 2 filters for the whole duration? mind telling me wats the EO brand?

for the gb again im not sure but since wira is the adopted version mitsu (lancer), i assume the gb to be mitsu as well albeit msia/japan made..
there r also foremans recommending pennzoil dexron for wira 1.5 gb..is ur car auto, and hv used both the caltex & lubegard b4, how do they fare..smooth gear changes, less jerks etc?

assuming your wira is a 4g1series engine, the recommendation is 5k km or 3 months, whichever comes first.

so here's some of that "exceptions" i do:
the full synthetic engine oil i use can EASILY outlast 10k km, however the oil filter/carbon deposits (older generation engines are really bad on emission/efficiency) will not. so every 5k km, i change the oil filter and top up if needed (there are some engine oil released when removing the oil filter) and 10k km full oil drain

and no, there are no magic oil, just that synthetic lubrications technologies have come a loooooooooong way to reduce wastage/environmental damage by prolonging the lifespan/additives of the engine oil.

i used Torco SR-1 full synthetic to achieve those long OCI.
sentra went with about 8k km oil filter change, then 16k km full drain.
iswara 5k km and 10k km+ done change oil filters (2x) and just waiting for my valve cover job before a full drain. (scare contaminants fall inside the engine, and if oil drain it wouldn't be of any concern lol)

my iswara is on 3 speed auto, and yes i only go with caltex atf-j and lubegard platinum.
very smooth/near-instant gear changes, almost no jerks unless you're red lining hard.
there are better (more expensive) lubes for the at box, but yea id prefer something that strikes a better price to performance rate

I tried mobil1, torco sr1, motul htech prime...all lebih kurang ajer...

not sure about htech prime, trying htech 100 plus for the motul. i like the overall much quieter/smoother engine compared to the torco.

other than that nothing special sides it being a much cheaper full synthetic EO compared to torco.

considering 12-14k km instead of 16k km since not too confident on the motul on extended OCI. the engine oil seems very clean even after a few k km's done, looks like the detergent additives are kept minimal for the motul?

htech prime got strong detergent properties i think coz i had issue with my engine oil cap resulting the oil leak around the cap area...all the dirty marks are cleaned

I dont notice any difference in terms of smoothness or engine sound.

The only thing is maybe the torco feels light when i first change...

thanks for the info

hmm engine feels light after oil change is more towards previous EO being bad than current EO being good.

Just refilled with the same Motul 300V. Car runs amazingly well although the fact it is a race oil means that I have to change every 5000 to 7500kms or else the engine starts getting obnoxious.

The lack of dispersants and detergents is obvious as the engine's head isstarting to look a bit naff. Might have to run more detergent and a flush. It is a good oil that will take HTHS beating like no other but it will not keep and engine clean.

Might have to run a detergent heavy oil for my next oil change.

My housemate is running on Liquimoly in an SR20DE. Seems fine to drive so far. I might use of their engine cleaning products to brighten up the engine in the mean time.

Vehicle : BMW M60B40
Brand : Ravenol
Model : Ravenol 10w-40
Price : RM145 / 4L
Feedback : Feel light & good responsive.

thanks for the feedback on the 300v bro. really tempted to try it myself rofl... but eh on my current engine i'd reckon it'd be pointless. maybe a 4b10 can give it a bit of stress that the 300v "deserves"

anyways...
do you think in general motul EO has much less detergents? that's the immediate difference i noticed compared with Torco SR-1.
The oil on the dipstick still looks damn clean, albeit the slight greenish color is no more when it was initially poured in.

btw i've used their engine flush, looks pretty thorough. the waste oil came out much thicker than other flushes i've experienced so far. so yea worth a shot for your case

Anyone tried chemlube? It's gonna be my next oil change.

My car has tappet sound that doesn't go away too
I am gonna try those liqui moly lifter fix (or something like that) to see if the tappet sound can be reduced

no idea on the chemlube.

however molybdenum (MoS2, liqui moly would come to mind) is one of the key ingredients in helping that.
along with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphite (mixture? they tend to call it molygraphite)
EO tend to be green, such as those from motul/M7
ELF also comes to mind.

oh btw:
http://motul-malaysia.blogspot.com/2013/04...e-5w-40-4l.html
suitable for diesel engines with high amount of detergent, you definitely got that one right

http://eolcs.api.org/brandSearchResults.aspx
went with h-tech 100 plus since got energy conserving and GF-5 certification.
and of course all my engines are in damn good/clean condition so don't really need the detergent for now i guess

Planning to change oil soon, currently looking at Torco oils. However, the many sub-brands they have confuses me. SR1, SR5 then TR1,TR5. And why most sell in 1L bottles only?

For my previous car, LM MoS is good. But this time not my own car, have to use FS. Appreciate if any tai kor can clarify here. Now driving Swift 1.5.

most premium EO sell in 1L bottle, so if you don't use up all the contents, you won't keep too much leftovers in unsealed condition which *may* degrade the EO's performance.

That, and it's easier to sell/can sell more premium price using 1L bottles

SR/TR etc are not "sub brands", more like "models" of their lineup.
if you want to go full synthetic for daily use, SR-1 is more than enough. TR-5 is their semi-synthetic (nothing to shout about to be honest)

so if you want to give torco a try, go with SR-1 then.

SR4/5 = racing EO, and not really suitable for daily usage in the sense that they have less detergent and not that good for long OCI. unless of course you got money to spend to blow doing shorter OCI at much more expensive pricing.