im testing 10w40 just because to see any fuel saving. you know saga blm fuel hunger with the bloody lousy gearbox. regret buying it. full tank can only last 300km ++ for 1.3 model. gonna change car soon.

Done! i've changed also. But for the boot space well it's worth it la. The price is dirt cheap. Anyway you can use any 10w-40 or 15w-50 but dont use w-30 engine oil. You don't feel the car anymore once you use that. Like tak boleh pick up...

as salam,

for BLM, any 15w-40, 10w40, 20w-50, 15w50, 5w-30 will serve well...as long as ORIGINAL..

still depend on what kind of drive you're.....if town driving, kind a STOP AND GO style of driving, trafic jam, opt for 5w-30 or 10w-40 will do well...

for highway, long distance, 10w-40, 20w50, 15w-50, 15w-40 will do the job

find a good oil, with high FLASH POINT and VISCOSITY INDEX value....you're car will be fine

just my 34.5sen

sarjantulang

but the fuel tank is small isn't it?

what is your reason?

One of the purpose of engine oil is to suspend the contaminants (eg. soot) produced during fuel combustion. Since a liter of Fully Synthetic can hold exactly the same amount of contaminants as a liter of Mineral Oil, both get saturated with contaminant at the same time, hence same oil change interval. To those who said FS can last longer is to say a gold bucket (more expensive) can hold more soil than a iron bucket of the same size is talking nonsense. That is defying physic and logic.

But if the valve seals and piston rings are doing their job, there won't be much contaminants from the combustion chamber right? Even if there's some, won't that small amount may have been trapped in the oil filter? Just curious.

Beside contaminants, there are other factors. For example, both FS and Mineral has same type/same amount of Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Foaming, anti-whatever and these got depleted over the same time. Hence same OCI.

Totally agree

Makes sense, I like you. What about oils being hydroscopic over time absorbing moisture once it's exposed to extreme heat, and FS oil qualities not breaking down as fast as M or SS?

Allow me to use an hypothetical example.

How long can base oil last without breaking down?
FS 10,000-km.
Mineral 5,000-km.

How long can Anti-Rust, Anti-Foaming last?
FS 5000-km
Mineral 5000-km.

Therefore all oil regardless of FS or Mineral must all change at 5000-km. While FS base oil can indeed last longer, other things inside the engine oil can't.

and for stock cars which manual stated 10,000km/6months whichever comes first?

Any ideal how much is Liqui Moly 10w40 prices around PJ area?

RM118

For Proton BLM/FL/FLX, Proton appears 2b inconsistent in its recommended SAE grades...

For BLMs and pre-Oct(?) 2011 FLs, Proton User Manuals rec 20W50.
Then later in 2011, an amendment sheet was added to FL User Manual changing the SAE grade to 10W30!!

However, most Proton SCs appear 2b using 10W40 during official OCIs...

Now FLXs Manual also rec 10W30. BUT SCs still supplying 10W40?

What is Proton's TRULY OFFICIAL stand/rec on this aspect of maintenance?

Left to "whims & fancies" of SCs? Or mayb even in the hands of Users/Owners?

Anyone, pleez....

This post has been edited by zeone: Apr 22 2012, 05:25 PM

if u guys need LM Fully syn 5-40W 5L, i have extra.
brand new RM180 onli

10W40 oil. With these viscosity, make sure it's either Semi or Fully Synthetic. Don't use Mineral.

If want to use Mineral and must be xW40, then you must only use 15W40.

Tks a meg, Bro!!

The sad part is that a car maker like Proton can be so "fickle" abt rec oil grades for their own cars!!
Imagine their own SCs dun follow User Manual rec!! Phew!!
Like dat, manual is only of value to recycle companies...

darn....just changed to Castrol Edge 5W-40 for my BLM
Is it a bit too much for my BLM?
Well, I just wanted it to last 10k km...else i would need to change oil quite frequent ( 2 mths once)

if u wann superior protection + healthy engine, regardless of how premium or expensive a fully synthetic cost, highly recommended to change at 7000km interval.