How about installing a MAF simulator? will it work? I know most cars have MAP sensor can work with the said method.

That's because they are using MAP. MAP is not MAF. MAP is the alternate to having MAF. Fuel injected engines are built with either MAP or MAF but seldom with both. Like I said in my previous post, your it works only on cars without MAF.

This post has been edited by sleepwalker: Apr 11 2012, 09:28 PM

yeah, understood, MAP is measuring pressure while MAF is measuring flowrate. Understood, it will not work. What about putting it infront of the throttle body, after the intercooler? still will not work or it will not measure correctly?

any 5w good oil recomend for kelisa?

dun look the rate infront W but behind

anything x W30 rating is good for kelisa

Guys, my last service I've tried Perodua's 5W-30 semi engine oil (Petronas) for my 1.6 Campro, it made my car feel lighter (or smoother) but then I totally lost the power. Even going 110km/h will need to put in extra effort in revving, hence more fc.

Question is, will it affect my engine if I continue using it? Thinking of changing it back ASAP if it does (only used around 1.5k KM), or if its not then I'll just live with it & change until the next service.

Hope the sifus here can help me

same as mine. using petronas semi 5w-30 on my cfe. no power after 120kmh. fc no improve. maybe will change to shell hx7 10w-40 next service.

suggest u change it for next service. don waste ur money.

This post has been edited by vinorgouki: Apr 14 2012, 04:24 PM

how about Elf molygraphite oil 15w 50?

what is your engine specifications? (or rather, what they recommend to use?)

xw50 are too thick for most modern/common engines.

its depend 15w 50 might go back for saga blm since service center using petronas 15w 50. Elf Moly got 10w 30 and 10w40 and 10w 50 which might be can use on my wira and kelisa

Thanks bro for the suggestion, yeah even though i feel the engine is lighter but then totally lost the power...will live with it & change on next service

I find it funny people don't bother looking up on their car manual as to what sort of engine oil to use. The manual should be the most authoritative to refer to.

read death book, brain no turn!

So you don't believe in schooling? And prefer reinventing the wheel like discovering gravity all over again? Some call that smart but some call it stupidity.

Hello guys. I have one question.

What is the difference between 10w30 and 10w40? Okay, let's take Liquimoly engine oil 10w30 and 10w40.

For Proton Savvy which is a hatchback car with Renault D4F engine 1.2L. Usually should be 10w30 right? But I want to ask what if I put 10w40. What I know is 10w30 is thinner than 10w40 and is suitable for hatchback car which 10w40 is good for sedan car. But I'm sill confuse. Can help me please.

xw30 is lighter than xw40. xw xx <-- is the viscosity rating (google/wiki)

and there is no rating specific for sedan or hatchback. follow your engine's specification, and if you prefer lighter engine response, you may opt. for lighter viscosity rating so long there is no abnormal/accelerated engine oil consumption/evaporation.

bro. let said my saga blm manual stated i should use SAE 20W-50 for engine oil so how? my service center use petronas 15w 50. Now i dont service with center. im using 10w 40 magnatec. do you mean i should go back to sae20w 50?

Pressurised air after turbo. Going to mess up the MAF. That is why the MAF is placed before the turbine so that it can measure unpressurised air going into the turbine.

If your manual says to use 20W50 it means you can use xW50. 'x' could be 0 or 5 or 15 or 20, doesn't matter. But should it be 0/5/10 then make sure it's Fully Synthetic. But if you are using 20W50, then Mineral is perfectly fine.

With 10W40, your car might feel 'lighter' or 'more powerful' or slightly better fuel consumption but may be more noisy. For long term, I reckon it might be better to go back to 20w50. My 2 sen

if the current 10w40 perform better.....then stick to it

otherwise, switch back to x W50 rating